Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About questforbalance

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender

Profile Fields

  • From
    Westfield, NJ
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 Porsche Boxster, 2007 Audi A6
  • Future cars
    MB ML320CDI, Volkswagen Jetta TDI
  • Former cars
    2004 Audi A6, 1980 MGB

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello AWDGuy. So after much angst, we decided to buy a new SUV and garage the car. we just love our C4S and cannot part with it. I had a few conversations with Jake Raby, a few Porsche mechanics and just could not part with so much money to rebuild the engine at this time. So the car will sit in our garage until which time we save up enough to have it reconstructed. I will either go with Jake Raby at $20,000 or a very reputable Porsche mechanic shop in New Jersey who can also reconstruct it. Or maybe I will try to do it myself. But maybe I will first buy a junk Porsche engine and practice with
  2. Hello Ahsai, I have replaced and repaired many parts on this car. Things that needed repairs or replacement and things that did not need it. Before this incident, I was planning on keeping this car for a long time. The thing is, and I wonder what others think, what else can go wrong? Below is a list of things/parts I have repaired or replaced in the two years I have owned it: -two front radiators -coolant reservoir -front drive axle gaskets -oil fill tube -brake rotors, pads and sensors -ECT sensor -IMS bearing -rear main seal -air/oil separator (what a PITA of a job that was) -front
  3. Well, just to report. After much research I found an independent Porsche mechanic in Yonkers, New York. ASE certified and Porsche factory trained. He did work for friends. He checked out my car and found that cylinders 4, 5 and 6 were scored. Engine needs a rebuild. He will send heads out west somewhere to have the cylinders bored and nickie sleeves put in all six cylinders, then rebuild engine. Total $15,000 and will have to wait for the car about two months depending on how busy the machine shop is out west. Holy crap!!! Is this car worth it?!?!?! 100,000,C4s with tiptronic. Any comments??
  4. Thanks JFP. I will certainly follow your advice. FYI, I spoke with Jake Raby today and got an ear full of faults with the M96 engines and a quote for a "tank-like" replacement engine. He told me that noisy lifters are a common misdiagnosis for these engines, particularly in the colder regions of the country. His opinion is that my problem is not the lifters, but the cylinders caused by a faulty design of the cylinders by Porsche. This all ads to the inherent complexity and contradiction of Porsche automobile ownership. My only regret is that money is not unlimited in my family and my love of l
  5. This is a topic that I am experiencing here. I can't contribute much except: The Porsche mechanic who serviced my car in the past; fixed transmission leak by rebuilding it and changed IMS bearing said these engines hold up well. Two years later, I have the same tapping or ticking or whatever you want to call the noise from the engine. I spoke to Jake Raby today and got a ear full of faults with Porsche engines and a hefty price for a replacement upgraded "tank-like" engine. He seems to know his stuff, but all things have faults unless design and money has no object. My advice is to find a goo
  6. So I checked the torque on a few spark plugs, changed the oil and filter and used my stethoscope to listen to the tapping on the engine. Results: Spark plugs were tight, found a few silver shavings in the oil filter, and can hear tapping noise at top of engine and at bottom of right side of engine cam cover. Car drives ok, no loss of power, accelerates good, but tapping is noticeable, increases in intensity when accelerating and it appears that a rebuild (lifters) or new engine is in my future. Anyone have any advice or thoughts? I am now looking for a Porsche mechanic, certainly not a Porsche
  7. Great information. I will use my stethoscope tonight. can you provide the link to Jake Raby's article on how to listen to the sounds? Also, I read somewhere that loose spark plugs can also sound like bad lifters. I replaced the spark plugs a year ago with the OEM Bosch plugs. I torqued them to 28 NM because the spark plug box said to torqued it to that, however, Wayne's book and the bentley book said to torque them to 30 NM. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thanks so much for the assistance.
  8. Well, I want to thank everyone who provided great advice. This was the biggest PITA job I have ever done. I used every small tool I had and finally got it done. I still puff out some white smoke at start up in the morning, but not as much as before. I still have a tapping sound coming from the engine at all times. I am not sure what it is, but i heard someone with a Boxster on Youtube who had the same exact noise and identified it as sticky hydraulic lifters. Has anyone used Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive or Rislone Engine treatment to solve the problem? Or is this a hydraulic lifter rep
  9. Thanks Ahsai. I plan on trying to move the engine over this weekend. Also, I do not know if you had it on your car, but on my car there is a metal angle that is bolted to the side of the car that has supports the 2 inch coolant metal pipe as it heads downward. That angle severely restricts my hand accessing the lower vent clamp and does an excellent job of cutting and bruising my left hand. I am going to either unbolt that angle or bend the angle up. I am sure that will help a lot.
  10. Man, AWDGuy, that is some undertaking!!! What will you do with the scored cylinders? How will you fix them?
  11. That's correct. I wasted a lot of time going from the top with some success (I got one of the hex allen bolts of the AOS from the top) but it's not a reliable way. Regarding getting the hands there, you can't especially if you have big hands. You prwtty much have to work with your fingers. When down there facing the rear of the car, try to slide your right hand (fingers) from the side above cyl #3 to reach the bottom aos hose and the most difficult hex bolt.Let me know if you have more questions and good luck! Hello Ahsai, I started this project and PITA project is an understatement!! I
  12. Thanks Ahsai. I did notice that in your write up, but the Bentley book said to remove the rear plenum first. So I figured I would take the rear plenum out first. I will follow your advice/guidance since you did this already. BTW, how did you fit your hands up from under the car to access the AOL separator hose and allen head bolts? I can barely fit one hand up from underneath. I lowered the engine up to the center support. I was able to reach down from the top and can feel the AOS hose and by touch found the allen head bolts. But I am not sure if I will be able to get a tool down there. Did yo
  13. After much thought, reading comments on this and other forums, I decided I would replace the air/oil separator. Mine is an MKII version. I have removed the throttle body (no big deal at all), the front intake manifold plenum (a little challenging), and I have wasted a few hours trying to remove the rear plenum. that plenum just will not come out. Getting to the strap bolts was a night mare, but I finally loosen up the straps. I lowered the engine as far as I could, but that rear plenum just does not come out. I tug and pull and twist, but no luck. How do I get that bugger out? Boy, I am not lo
  14. Thanks for the comments. The oil filter is clean, the coolant is clean also. I recently changed the coolant reservoir. The symptoms of white smoke bellowing out the exhaust at start up in the mornings and in evenings after sitting parked after work, the burning of oil leads me to believe it maybe the air oil separator, but I need to confirm that. I will run the car later, warm it up a little and while idling I will twist off the oil fill cap. I have been doing research on changing the air oil separator and based on its location looks like I will have to remove the intake manifold on the left s
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.