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questforbalance

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About questforbalance

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Westfield, NJ
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    1999 Porsche Boxster, 2007 Audi A6
  • Future cars
    MB ML320CDI, Volkswagen Jetta TDI
  • Former cars
    2004 Audi A6, 1980 MGB

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  1. Hello AWDGuy. So after much angst, we decided to buy a new SUV and garage the car. we just love our C4S and cannot part with it. I had a few conversations with Jake Raby, a few Porsche mechanics and just could not part with so much money to rebuild the engine at this time. So the car will sit in our garage until which time we save up enough to have it reconstructed. I will either go with Jake Raby at $20,000 or a very reputable Porsche mechanic shop in New Jersey who can also reconstruct it. Or maybe I will try to do it myself. But maybe I will first buy a junk Porsche engine and practice with it. Anyone know where I can find a junk Porsche engine to practice with? Hey AWDGuy, did you finish your engine reconstruction?
  2. Hello Ahsai, I have replaced and repaired many parts on this car. Things that needed repairs or replacement and things that did not need it. Before this incident, I was planning on keeping this car for a long time. The thing is, and I wonder what others think, what else can go wrong? Below is a list of things/parts I have repaired or replaced in the two years I have owned it: -two front radiators -coolant reservoir -front drive axle gaskets -oil fill tube -brake rotors, pads and sensors -ECT sensor -IMS bearing -rear main seal -air/oil separator (what a PITA of a job that was) -front seat pad -Transmission rebuild, gaskets replaced -catalytic converters with Fabspeed sport cats (because original cats went bad. Now I know why they went bad) This car is an everyday driver, so reliability is critical. I am curious to hear from others who use their cars as everyday drivers.
  3. Well, just to report. After much research I found an independent Porsche mechanic in Yonkers, New York. ASE certified and Porsche factory trained. He did work for friends. He checked out my car and found that cylinders 4, 5 and 6 were scored. Engine needs a rebuild. He will send heads out west somewhere to have the cylinders bored and nickie sleeves put in all six cylinders, then rebuild engine. Total $15,000 and will have to wait for the car about two months depending on how busy the machine shop is out west. Holy crap!!! Is this car worth it?!?!?! 100,000,C4s with tiptronic. Any comments?? I am thinking about selling the car as is and just buying a new jap car. Cheaper, not as much fun but certainly more reliable. Any thoughts? I need to make a decision this weekend. I really like the car and am attempted to go through with the rebuild, but concern. This car is a money hog.
  4. Thanks JFP. I will certainly follow your advice. FYI, I spoke with Jake Raby today and got an ear full of faults with the M96 engines and a quote for a "tank-like" replacement engine. He told me that noisy lifters are a common misdiagnosis for these engines, particularly in the colder regions of the country. His opinion is that my problem is not the lifters, but the cylinders caused by a faulty design of the cylinders by Porsche. This all ads to the inherent complexity and contradiction of Porsche automobile ownership. My only regret is that money is not unlimited in my family and my love of living, eating and surviving far outweighs my love for Porsches.
  5. This is a topic that I am experiencing here. I can't contribute much except: The Porsche mechanic who serviced my car in the past; fixed transmission leak by rebuilding it and changed IMS bearing said these engines hold up well. Two years later, I have the same tapping or ticking or whatever you want to call the noise from the engine. I spoke to Jake Raby today and got a ear full of faults with Porsche engines and a hefty price for a replacement upgraded "tank-like" engine. He seems to know his stuff, but all things have faults unless design and money has no object. My advice is to find a good Porsche mechanic, I mean someone who really loves Porsches and see what they have to say. Then reflect on what it is you expect from and of your car, then decide what to so. Sorry if this does not help, but I am in the same situation as you. Just wanted to share some thoughts.
  6. So I checked the torque on a few spark plugs, changed the oil and filter and used my stethoscope to listen to the tapping on the engine. Results: Spark plugs were tight, found a few silver shavings in the oil filter, and can hear tapping noise at top of engine and at bottom of right side of engine cam cover. Car drives ok, no loss of power, accelerates good, but tapping is noticeable, increases in intensity when accelerating and it appears that a rebuild (lifters) or new engine is in my future. Anyone have any advice or thoughts? I am now looking for a Porsche mechanic, certainly not a Porsche dealership, but someone who is fair and will check out car, provide honest advice and service.? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I live in central New Jersey, 20 miles west of Newark Liberty International airport.
  7. Great information. I will use my stethoscope tonight. can you provide the link to Jake Raby's article on how to listen to the sounds? Also, I read somewhere that loose spark plugs can also sound like bad lifters. I replaced the spark plugs a year ago with the OEM Bosch plugs. I torqued them to 28 NM because the spark plug box said to torqued it to that, however, Wayne's book and the bentley book said to torque them to 30 NM. Do you have any thoughts on this? Thanks so much for the assistance.
  8. Well, I want to thank everyone who provided great advice. This was the biggest PITA job I have ever done. I used every small tool I had and finally got it done. I still puff out some white smoke at start up in the morning, but not as much as before. I still have a tapping sound coming from the engine at all times. I am not sure what it is, but i heard someone with a Boxster on Youtube who had the same exact noise and identified it as sticky hydraulic lifters. Has anyone used Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive or Rislone Engine treatment to solve the problem? Or is this a hydraulic lifter replacement in my future? Thanks
  9. Thanks Ahsai. I plan on trying to move the engine over this weekend. Also, I do not know if you had it on your car, but on my car there is a metal angle that is bolted to the side of the car that has supports the 2 inch coolant metal pipe as it heads downward. That angle severely restricts my hand accessing the lower vent clamp and does an excellent job of cutting and bruising my left hand. I am going to either unbolt that angle or bend the angle up. I am sure that will help a lot.
  10. Man, AWDGuy, that is some undertaking!!! What will you do with the scored cylinders? How will you fix them?
  11. That's correct. I wasted a lot of time going from the top with some success (I got one of the hex allen bolts of the AOS from the top) but it's not a reliable way. Regarding getting the hands there, you can't especially if you have big hands. You prwtty much have to work with your fingers. When down there facing the rear of the car, try to slide your right hand (fingers) from the side above cyl #3 to reach the bottom aos hose and the most difficult hex bolt.Let me know if you have more questions and good luck! Hello Ahsai, I started this project and PITA project is an understatement!! I got the intake manifold off, got the plenums off, even got both allen bolts holding the AOS off, but cannot get the bottom vent off the AOS. I tried for hours to get at it from the top, from the bottom, but cannot get enough room to press the hose connection off. I cannot get my fingers up high enough to get a grip on that vent hose connection on the AOS. I have the engine lowered to the center support, but still there is not enough room. I even had my wife try to get at it, but that failed also. Did you push the engine over to the passenger side when you did the job? I am thinking that I will try that, but I want to ask first.
  12. Thanks Ahsai. I did notice that in your write up, but the Bentley book said to remove the rear plenum first. So I figured I would take the rear plenum out first. I will follow your advice/guidance since you did this already. BTW, how did you fit your hands up from under the car to access the AOL separator hose and allen head bolts? I can barely fit one hand up from underneath. I lowered the engine up to the center support. I was able to reach down from the top and can feel the AOS hose and by touch found the allen head bolts. But I am not sure if I will be able to get a tool down there. Did you try accessing them from top and found that it did not work and thus finally accessed them from the bottom? Thanks
  13. After much thought, reading comments on this and other forums, I decided I would replace the air/oil separator. Mine is an MKII version. I have removed the throttle body (no big deal at all), the front intake manifold plenum (a little challenging), and I have wasted a few hours trying to remove the rear plenum. that plenum just will not come out. Getting to the strap bolts was a night mare, but I finally loosen up the straps. I lowered the engine as far as I could, but that rear plenum just does not come out. I tug and pull and twist, but no luck. How do I get that bugger out? Boy, I am not looking forward to tackling the hard part....the removal of the manifold and the air/oil separator...but I will persevere... So, can someone tell me how to get that rear plenum out? Much appreciated.
  14. Thanks for the comments. The oil filter is clean, the coolant is clean also. I recently changed the coolant reservoir. The symptoms of white smoke bellowing out the exhaust at start up in the mornings and in evenings after sitting parked after work, the burning of oil leads me to believe it maybe the air oil separator, but I need to confirm that. I will run the car later, warm it up a little and while idling I will twist off the oil fill cap. I have been doing research on changing the air oil separator and based on its location looks like I will have to remove the intake manifold on the left side. Does anyone know if I can avoid doing all that if I just lower the engine? Will lowering the engine provide enough space to get at the air oil separator in the back of the engine?
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