danoduke

I agree with Loren that the RMS DIY provides nearly all the instruction you'll need. He also gives excellent torque recommendations - follow them. I just completed a clutch/throw-out bearing replacement on a '99 996 C2. Unfortunately, I didn't photograph every step. It wasn't that difficult IMHO, but I have many years of auto mechanics experience. I did it with the car on floor jacks, only 14" of clearance, in 5 degree MN weather and no fancy equipment. BUT, one big word of caution...be very, very patient. If this is your daily driver...forget it. You'll never get it done in a weekend if this is your first 911 clutch replacement. Some of the bolts are extremely difficult to remove. Especially, the top bolt of the flywheel housing. The clearances are extremely tight unless you drop the engine/tranny. I had to cut a box end wrench in half to tackle the job. Also, I recommend shorty ratchets (about 3") to finish the job. Once you get the bolts off an average physically fit guy can manhandle the tranny out of it's tight cradle. At this point removing the clutch is super simple...provided you have the right tools. Check out the old clutch vs new...after 80k miles it was very worn. If you've gone this far you might as well change the rear main seal too. Again, it's not difficult if you're patient. Since you have the tranny out this is the perfect time to change the fluid. Just do it! I found installing the tranny was a bit more difficult than removing it. After all, you're fighting the forces of gravity. But, I did it myself with just a good floor jack. Once installed reconnect the shift linkages, electrical connections, etc. I noticed quite a few posts about bleeding the hydraulic clutch. Again, it's no biggie IF you get the right tools. I use a 3 ft tall super sucker vacuum pump. Had no problems at all. In summary, this isn't that difficult of a job if you have above average mechanical skills. Make sure you have all the right tools, especially a good torque wrench and tight space ratchets/box end wrenches. Good luck!

Problem solved. As I was removing the throttle body I discovered the throttle cable had pulled out of it's slot behind the black plastic plug (not visible which is how I missed it). Once I repositioned it there's enough cable for the car to idle properly. Boy do I feel stupid! Thanks again for your assistance!

Thanks Loren for the advice. I checked the throttle butterfly, it's not binding, the movement seems fine. Yes, it is a C2 but I'm not sure how to check the idle control valve to see if it is stuck open. I've attached a photo that might help in figuring this out. Notice the gap between the idle set screw and the throttle? I can force it down with a screwdriver, then she purrs like a kitten at 700 rpm, but as soon as I let go it jumps back to 3000 rpm! Very discouraging considering I spent the last 8 weekends replacing the clutch, main seal, and every hose, belt and filter on the car. All thoughts are much appreciated!

My '99 996 idled perfectly prior to disconnecting the battery two months ago. When I recently reconnected the battery, started the engine, the idle speed hovers between 2500 and 3000 rpm! The gas pedal is free of obstructions, there's no binding of the throttle cable. So I followed my Porsche manual which indicated the DME needs to go through a learning and adaption routine after disconnecting the battery. Switched the ignition on for 1 minute without starting the engine, then off for 10 seconds. I did this three times to no avail. Any other suggestions?