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Everything posted by Ubermensch

  1. It's a fairly common complaint on the 996s. As was mentioned, the two best solutions are the aero front bumper and/or lowering the suspension a little.
  2. I've got my new boots and clamps and I'm ready to tackle the job on my 996 C4. Just one question: This is one of the clamps that arrived and I'm a little confused about how you tighten it. I've got CV boot pliers for eared and earless clampes which the other ones are. This one just looks like a metal zip tie. Do I just pull it through and bend it over? Thanks, S.
  3. This one? : http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...ht=extinguisher
  4. I just wanted to follow up and say that I followed your technique and paint recommendation with good results. That color paint is a very good match. Thanks! Shawn
  5. Disregard, I figured it out. For anyone wondering, there are two white clips under the front edge of the seat. There is a "pin" that goes through it into the base. Pull on the pin to release the rivet. Then pry the white clip away from the base and it will pop out releasing the front edge of the seat. The back edge is just wedge in and can be slid out. Shawn
  6. I've located a bad heating element in my seat heaters and I'd like to see if it can be repaired or if I need to replace it. Does anyone have tips for removing the bottom seat cushion to access the heating elements? Thanks, Shawn
  7. Thanks, that's exactly the type of thread I was looking for.
  8. I'm going to replace the lower control arms on my 2001 C4. Obviously I need to seperate the ball joint to accomplish that. Does anyone suggest a specific tool and I can pick up locally? I'm familiar with the seperator forks, but the manaul shows a lever type contraption... Thanks, S.
  9. 2001 C4 with 80k miles. Replaced all six coil packs after four found bad (~55k miles) Alternator replaced (-75k miles)
  10. Thanks guys !! It's done !! The alternator was out, I accessed the tubes behind it. I had to use a ton of WD40, a few cuts & bruises on my hands, a jammed finger, a ton of pushing, shoving, pulling, mallet hits, using screw drivers as levels etc to get the generator out. Nasty one - but done with no damage to the precious alternator (or around). At some point I felt the right side was probably welded in my case !! I'm going to write a little DIY soon - taken snaps just for that. Did you ever happen to copmlete the write up? I think my voltage regulator is on the way out and it would be helpful! Thanks, Shawn
  11. If they're newly designed it's not the center section raising...mine do that from the factory. Look stock to me.
  12. Am I missing something. That's the stock cup holder, isn't it? S.
  13. Any luck with this? Do you have any details on removing the elements? Thanks, Shawn
  14. I have a C4 and the stock amp is located in the center section of the trunk. You need to remove most of the trim panels in the trunk to access it as they all overlap and the center section is the bottom-most. Shawn
  15. I recognize the factory fill recommendation is Mobil Mobilube PTX, but since I can't find that what are the boards thoughts on Mobil Gear Oil Fully Synthetic 75W90. It's a) synthetic, B) the correct weight, c) listed for use in GL5 and GL4 applications according to Mobil. Any reason not to use it? Shawn
  16. Are you sure it's not an ignition problem? I had a terrible idle when I had a cracked coilpack...I had no CEL but I was able pull misfire codes.
  17. If that is the problem, you will want to adjust the front bumper cover not the front trunk lid. Thank you Loren, as always! :cheers: I did think about that same thing, adjusting the bumper cover. Reason is, the dealer I bought the car from did some paintjob on the bumper cover. I was wondering if he installed it a little off, it doesn't take much to disrupt that flush level. Does anyone have a nice picture of the proper fit? I thought mine was fine but it sits at the same level as the bumper cover, not below it. S.
  18. That's actually who I was working with. I mistakenly wrote SunCoast in my initial posts....
  19. Thanks! That was easy. I wonder why Suncoast had such a problem? What do you think about the transmission plug? Any suggestions on how to find the dimensions? S.
  20. I'm interested in changing out my drain plugs (oil, transmission, differential). When I spoke to Suncoast they weren't able to identify which parts I needed. They said they replace them so infrequently that they just measure the one they remove and find a replacement based on that. Does anyone know the dimensions so that I don't have to remove my plugs to get a replacement? I don't feel like draining these items by removing the plugs and having the car sit while I get the replacement.... Thanks, S. PS--2001 C4
  21. I've had this problem for quite a while now (>1 year) and I haven't found a solution yet. In my case it's definitely the seal around the window. Opening any other window or the roof changes/eliminates the noise since the air flow in/out of the car changes. I've tried the side view mirror with no change. I've tried placing short lengths of rope in the seal to improve the seal with no change. I've tried applying vasoline at the apparent point of noise with no change. The seal looks perfect with no apparent defects. I've heard from one member that they ended up locating the side of the loose fit, and then inserted shims under the seal to build it up in that area. I haven't tried that yet since I'm a bit concerned I'll do more damage to the seal removing it that I'll fix with the shims. S.
  22. As others have suggested you have a pretty classic problem: a sticking caliper. A rebuild is the solution (not a difficult proces on most calipers if you want to diy).
  23. Agreed. I'd look at the coil packs. Their close proximity to the exhaust headers means they experience tremendous heat. Track time plus high temperatures most likely baked them.... S.
  24. I don't own, and therefore am not as familiar with, the Tip transmission, but in my past ownership experience of automatic cars, a simple drain and fill was not every effective at replacing the fluid. In particular this does not change the fluid residing in the torque converter itself. I believe a drain and fill generally changes about 20% of the actual fluid in the system. Many people prefer a full flush which actually drains and fills the system while it's running and pumping to do a full change. Alternatively you can repeat the drain and fill procedure without it running multiple times to bring the old fluid to a dilution level you're comfortable with. Shawn
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