Ubermensch

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5396

Another alternative is a subscription to an online service such as www.alldatadiy.com . I'm coming up on the end of a one year subscription. I'd argue it has the same issues that the other .pdf version have in that it doesn't always seem up to date although it does include TSBs.

Why do you think the epoxy wouldn't stick after a while? Why would it find it's way into the oil pan? Sorry but unless you put gobs of epoxy and somehow managed to breake pieces of the the extra material off I can't imagine it happening. It seems like a perfectly reasonable way to fix the issue. Of course if the tube isn't very expensive, it's probably not worth the effort to clean and glue, but that's up to him.

I have no idea if this is your problem, but I just noticed that my litronic aiming sensor on the control arm was broken. You might check this out since it adjusts the position of the lights while driving to compensate for hills. If it's broken I could imagine the sensor drifting up and down causing the syptoms you described. The sensor is on the driver side lower control arm. Just remove your driver side front wheel and look for a small plastic linkage connected to the arm to confirm its in good shape.

Shawn

If it is square looking then it sounds like the Litronics sensor (for when you are going uphill to adjust your headlights down). The ABS/PSM sensors are round and on the wheel hub carrier.

Thanks, Loren. You were right on. I would have never guessed I need to be looking at the headlight sensors...

I finally got serious about this today and make the replacement. The disconnect came loose pretty easily once I freed the main body of the filter and allow the disconnect to rotate in the housing. So if anyone has trouble, the trick is to give it a twist and then release rather than strictly pulling it apart. On a side note, I release the pressure in the system by opening my fuel tank cap and had very little fuel leakage. I had a bit in the old filter itself, but very little from the lines.

Thanks for the suggestions folks! My 60k service is officially done.

I've got a quick disconnect line that just doesn't want to come off (fuel filter). Has anyone had this problem, and what resolution did you reach? I'm just checking for any tips before I cut this thing off....

Shawn

This type of filter connection is essentially the same as used by VW. You really have to squeeze down on the disconnect ring to get it to open and disengage the filter. Use some vice grips to get a good grip on it. When it is open, the filter will slide off real easy.

PS. Make sure you have something to catch the gas that will come out. There can be as much as a half a pickle jar!

I'll get out my pickle jar and vice grips and give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the tip. If that doesn't work I'm cutting the line, draining the fuel, and using a dremel tool to remove the fitting.

I noticed that there's a broken sensor on my drivers side lower control arm (2001 C4). It looks like it senses the vertical movement of the control arm, but I can't find it anywhere in the manual. Can someone help me out with what this is so I can get a replacement?

Shawn

Normal. It's either automatic or manual. Your choice. If it's not one it's the other.

Yes, that is normal. If you turn the fan down (using the minus button) where no bars show it actually says "oFF".

I've got a quick disconnect line that just doesn't want to come off (fuel filter). Has anyone had this problem, and what resolution did you reach? I'm just checking for any tips before I cut this thing off....

Shawn

This type of filter connection is essentially the same as used by VW. You really have to squeeze down on the disconnect ring to get it to open and disengage the filter. Use some vice grips to get a good grip on it. When it is open, the filter will slide off real easy.

PS. Make sure you have something to catch the gas that will come out. There can be as much as a half a pickle jar!

I'll get out my pickle jar and vice grips and give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the tip. If that doesn't work I'm cutting the line, draining the fuel, and using a dremel tool to remove the fitting.

I've got a quick disconnect line that just doesn't want to come off (fuel filter). Has anyone had this problem, and what resolution did you reach? I'm just checking for any tips before I cut this thing off....

Shawn

The (safe for paint) Porsche product is actually P21S Windshield Wash Booster. It makes 26 quarts and is available here in the US for about $7.95.

Are you just mixing this with any old fluid as toolpants suggests?

Brian,

Thanks, I saw that one but they were only shipping in the UK.

Mother,

I saw the post from C4. Thanks for the heads up.

No luck....anyone else?

Brian,

Thanks, I saw that one but they were only shipping in the UK.

Mother,

I saw the post from C4. Thanks for the heads up.

I've been fooling around with a few ideas and I'd like to try it out on a junk control arm to avoid cannabalizing my own car. Does anyone have one they'd like to get rid of at a reasonable price?

Thanks,

Shawn

Very strange...I'm pressing the clip pretty firmly. I can certainly feel it denting in. On my new filter I can clearly see how pressing the button flares the internal plasic ring and opening the connection. Perhaps the plastic ring is deformed on the old one?

You shouldn't have to pull hard at all on the quick release. Just pinch between your thumb and finger. I can't remember if you pinch on the grey part or on the sides around the grey part. But it definitly should come off easily.

Also, there is a fair bit of fuel in the filter and the hoses, so be careful.

Thanks for the responses! It was indeed behind the coolant tank. I spent about an hour under the car searching! What's the point of a repair manual when it's wrong so frequently? This is about the third time I've reference the manual and then when I actually try to do the job the car is different. I broke a switch a month or two ago trying to remove it the way the manual suggested.

Anyway, thanks again!

Okay, I thought finding was going to be the difficult part :eek:

I've pulled just about as hard as I can (limited strength in tight quarters) on the quick release (the gray tab is obvious pushed in as I pull). Any tips other than pull harder to release it? Does the fitting rotate if the release is pressed? Perhaps I could break it free by rotating it and then pull it?

It sounds like people typically disconnect the fuel lines (as the manual suggests) and then remove the strap. It seems like it would be easier to release the strap so I can turn the filter and actually get the 19mm wrenchs in there...Any other suggestions on fitting wrenchs/hands in that space?

Thanks for the responses! It was indeed behind the coolant tank. I spent about an hour under the car searching! What's the point of a repair manual when it's wrong so frequently? This is about the third time I've reference the manual and then when I actually try to do the job the car is different. I broke a switch a month or two ago trying to remove it the way the manual suggested.

Anyway, thanks again!

Thanks!!! :notworthy:

I must be completely retarded because in my 2001 C4 I can't find this **** thing anywhere? I've removed all the center covers and don't see. It's decent sized so how am I missing it? Is it in front of the transmission? above it?

Does anyone have the flowrate on the stock injectors? Thanks.

Nobody knows the flow rate on these things?

Does anyone have the flowrate on the stock injectors? Thanks.

I had them on my TT Supra a few years ago and for the price they were a decent tire. For just a bit more I prefer the Yohohama ES100. If you do search on tire rack you can get some performance data and comparisons on them.

Shawn

Anyone have any good experience with Sumitomos?

I can get all four tires for my 02 C for under $650

Please let me know.

If you're going to keep it forever the new engine is a good thing. If you're going to sell it eventually I'd have to think about it a lot. No way would I purchase a car with a replaced engine. I'd assume the owner beat the original one and would worry about the rest of the car.

Always an option, I was just hoping someone could confirm before I went through the trouble of removing the emergency flasher.

I've got a bit of a rattle from the instrument cluster. I was going to remove it to apply some felt between the parts to damp the noise and found that one of the two bolts holding the cluster to the dash was missing (wonder why it was rattling right there...). I'd like to replace the bolt rather than remove the unit at this point to see if it solves the problem. The manual specifies that the bolt is 5.0 x 30. Does anyone have an idea of what the pitch is? I picked up a 5.0x0.8 30mm and it doesn't seem to want to thread...

Thanks!

Shawn

It is probably the lower control arm bushings.

There are two ways to verify this:

(1) Have someone else push up and down on the corner of the car to reproduce the problem.  While they are doing that, put your finger on the control arm near the bushing and see if you can feel it vibrating.

(2) Nail the control arm bushing with some lubricant (non-silicone) and see if the problem temporarily goes away.

This is a common problem.  Unfortunately, you have to replace the control arm to fix it (there is no separate bushing for sale).

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Which busing are you referring to? Here's a picture to reference...

I have a 2001 C4 MT coupe that has developed an annoying creaking a groaning sound from the front suspension. The noise generally only appears have the car has warmed up and been driven a few miles but is quite noticeable inside and outside the vehicle. The noise is not present during turning but is most obvious during low speed rolling in a parking lot or street driving. When I place my hands directly above the wheel and press I can replicate the noise on either side.

Quick search revealed that some people have had trouble with the sway bar connections loosening over time. I've check all the sway bar bolts and they are torqued to spec.

Unfortunately I can't replicate the noise once I have the car on stands so I can't narrow down the location. I suppose my next step is buying some ramps so I can load the suspension while I'm under it.

Any suggestions other than ramps?

Thanks,

Shawn