OscarAH1W

All- Thanks for the help. Issue ended up solving itself. The GT3 was in an accident (turned out the THIRD one not the second) and though the external damage looked pretty fixable, the unibody was messed up as well bottom of car went one way and the top the other (kind of a twist to the body) and it wasn't cost effective to repair. I just received the replacement I purchased (few more miles, fewer options but WITH AirCon, and much better maintained) has the correct wheels, HA! Dealer even sprung for the 400 bucks to replace the lip spoiler because he didn't like that the original was dinged up.

Thanks Loren. I worked with wheel enhancement when I traded in my stock wheels on my '01 C4 Cab for Sport Classics. They are a great resource. Unfortunately they were only offering about 1K trade in and the correct GT3 wheels were well over 6K for the set. (Good price considering what Porsche quotes, which is 2400 a corner via Auto Atlanta or Pelican) The dealer understandably doesn't want to spend new wheel money on an 8 year old car and I can kinda understand that. Ironically I COULD put the incorrect GT3 wheels on the Turbo Cab and ditch the spacers on the rear wheels, putting the Sport Technos on the GT3, but I would still be too narrow in front and the GT3 would look weird. I am almost thinking of going with an aftermarket set that is at a palatable price for him, looks good, and reduces weight at the corners... besides size/offset, is there any spec or rating that I should look for? There are, as you know, tons of manufacturers and the prices go from sublime to the ridiculous so it's pretty confusing. any help is welcome...sorry for the ramble, I just want to get the car right and complete the dealer-owes list. Thanks!

Agree... I ended up with both the Turbo Cab (04) and a GT3 for DE/TT, etc. The two cars couldn't be any more different. That being said, there are far fewer 996 GT3s around than turbos and if you look you can find early Turbos for under 40 grand. Hard to beat that level of bang for the buck. Then again, a GT3 at 8,000 RPM sounds unlike anything else. Whichever of the three you choose, you won't be disappointed. I think that Loren would agree that a thorough service history and good PPI are important in the process. Just because the "GT1" engine doesn't have the RMS issue, the coolant line fittings can fail where they are epoxied into the block. Big $$$ if it isn't under warranty. Happened on my Turbo Cab but wasn't catastrophic and no issues since. Not to scare you, just information so you can weigh everything as you look. Best of luck!

All,

Looking for some help here. I bought a GT3 whose original owner put aftermarket Champions on it. At some point, the Champions were replaced with GT3 design wheels. Unfortunately someone failed to notice that they are GT3 look wheels with widths/offsets for wide body cars (8J x 18 & 11J x 18). Any assistance in helping my dealer source these wheels would be great. Hoping someone replaced their stock wheels and has them sitting around

Thanks!!

That is good news! I pulled my cluster and tried to change the gauge faces. Followed instructions to a T and still messed up 2 of the gauges pulling needles... after the speedo shop BCM'ed it, I got to spend 3600 bucks on the factory aluminum-look cluster. Not something I'll ever mess with again.

Doesn't make sense to me. The procedure as discussed (Drain Crankcase/Oil Reservoir/Turbochargers/oil filter housing, Replace drain plugs with new sealing rings, replace filter with both O-rings (Little and Big), refill with approved oil) is all that is described in the Factory service manual. Not sure where your dealer derives the requirement...I can PDF you the pages from the manual if you want to question your dealer...

Superb pictures-- Just performed the maintenance this weekend on my 2004 Turbo Cab X50 and had a couple updates for the audience. Not sure if these are Model Year differences or X50 differences or both, but here is what I found:

Removing the bumperettes required a 5mm Allen head, vice a #40 TORX.

There is a slight difference to removing the intercoolers. Referring to picture # 22 (From the top), the instruction is to snap the assembly forward. #23 states to remove the nuts from the heat shield (already removed) On my car, the threaded studs are also used to secure the intercooler mounting assembly. I figured this out when I tried to slide the assembly forward and couldn't. Once the lower nuts are removed, the intercooler assembly pops right out and you can bend the heat shield up.

Thanks again for a superb corollary to the service manual which has somewhat detailed instructions on bumper removal but merely reads "Remove Charge Air Coolers" as a step.

-Owen

Just replaced PS2s with the V12 Evos. LOVE THEM. Not as much Tramlining and no float at triple digits. I can't even get them to squeal in my favorite 15 MPH corner at well above recommended speed...My Turbo Cab is running the hollow spoke Sport Techno wheels that were optioned from the factory. Car feels the same top up or down. 600 dollars for the set seems like too good a deal to be true. Any chance there is some difference between your tires and the tires the rest of hung for 1K +/-?? Oh... just looked at the thread... Porsche specs 36 psi up front and 44 PSI in the rear. Maybe that'll change the dynamic...

Orient-

Superb detailed post. I just wanted to comment that your technique requires minor modifications if you happen to be putting a turbo up on the stands. The front end goes up on stands exactly as you describe. The issue with the turbo is that you can't get to a central jacking point with the front up and the rear now even lower. Also, I found out the "pad" where you would jack is farther forward on the Turbo than the M96 engines. My "solution" is as follows: Now that the front is on stands, jack one side again using the rear jacking point (the front will come off the stand so take your time) and remove the rear wheel. Once the wheel is removed you can put a stand under the suspension cross member (just inboard of where the a-arm bushing is) and lower the jack. NOW you can get the jack far enough under the rear to lift the whole rear end and you move the previous stand to the rear jacking point as you describe and install the fourth stand. Lower it and you're good to go! I took about an hour to figure this out and forgot to take pictures, ha ha. I will take them once I get my refinished wheels back and have to do it in reverse.

All- The only 3rd Party warranty I would recommend is the Fidelity extended service contract that is offered through the Porsche dealership... I purchased a non-CPO 2004 Turbo Cab (X50) from an independent dealer with 20,600 miles on it. I was able to purchase the platinum coverage AFTER paying for what amounted to a CPO inspection at the Porsche dealership. I purchased the longest coverage term available for $4,600, Many readers will balk at this amount, but it has paid for itself already. One year and 6,500 miles into ownership, on my 3rd drive after reading the Feb 11 Excellence article on GT-1 engine coolant line problems, I blew a coolant line. Long story short, my 100 dollar deductible paid for about $12.5K in dealer repairs. I don't track the car and don't bounce the needle off the rev-limiter. I agree with all the advice... read everything carefully and shop for the best deal. There is wiggle room on these extended service contracts so do your research and make the best deal... I would NOT recommend any "provider" not sanctioned by your Porsche Dealership. Hope this helps someone. You wouldn't put crap gas in the car, or put retread tires on it, why skimp on warranty coverage?

The AX enterprises NAV CD set is used and out of date. The most current are the 2008 data from Suncoast Parts. The factory set is 329.00 from them. I ordered mine through Hoehn Porsche in Carlsbad, CA and with the PCA discount, the disc set was under 200 dollars. Get the newest available. Plus the discs come in a Porsche leatherette case.

I traded in my 2001 C4 Cab on a 2004 Turbo Cab. I blue-booked my C4 and it came up with 27K trade in and the car had around 39K miles. I only got 25K from the Dealer. I wasn't happy about it, but the Turbo Cab only had 20,600 miles on it and had the X50 Powerkit. They wanted $59,800 and it Blue-booked (dealer retail) at 75K. I basically asked myself if the newer car was worth 2K more, which I felt it was. The biggest deal when trading in, from my perspective, is not what you actually get for the car, it is the price difference between yours and the new car. Many times, dealers will have more negotiating room on the car on their lot, so you can make up the difference on trade-in value with the sales price. I am glad I made the trade, and with the low mileage I was able to purchase the Platinum service contract (100$ deductible) from the local Porsche dealer for around 4K. The difference in cars is other-worldly and the power is addictive. That said, 55K seems a little high for a coupe. I am a big fan of the convertible and they can be had for similar money. The sticker on mine was 152,600 so deals are out there. I wouldn't go to a 997 C4S either; purely my opinion, but the extra width of the 997 looks strange from behind. The graceful slope from the roofline to the rear fender of the 996 is harsh and disproportionate on the 997; more so without the fixed wing of the turbo/GT3. The deal sealer for me was looking at a 997 C4S Cab CPO car on the Porsche lot when I picked mine up from an oil change... 20 grand more for a lot less car. No contest. Have fun with the process and wait for the right car; it's out there and you'll know when you see it. Cheers!

HA!! Just tried inverting the nozzle and IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!! LOL.. Looks strange but topped off and cut off automatically. Superb. Thanks for the tip.

Awesome, I'll give it a try! Thanks!!

I had this on both my 2001 C4 Cab and now my 2004 Turbo Cab. When refueling, the auto cut off on the nozzle cuts off repeatedly and randomly during the refueling process. I find myself having to hold the handle (vice locking it and cleaning the windshield) at about 1/2 the max flow rate. even then it develops back pressure and cuts off. I then have to guess how much fuel will fill the tank and often overfill a bit. Anyone else seen this? I am at the point of using the calculator to divide miles remaining on the display with avg MPG for what's left and subtracting it from 16.6 gallons, LOL.

Paul- More nerdy-numbers for you from Adrian Streather's great book on the 996. In the 996 turbos, the fan comes on in 3 modes:

1: Ignition on or engine running: Turns on if booster resistance cable detects a buildup of heat from exhaust system.

2: Coolant temp of 105 deg C or engine bay temp of 78 deg C: Runs until engine bay temp below 40 deg C.

3: (I think this is where we all notice it) Ignition off/Engine bay temp greater than 25 deg C (system "armed") and temp rises over 78 deg C for more than 3 min.: Enters after engine shutdown protection mode. Fan runs until temp drops below 78 deg C; system monitors engine bay temp every 10 seconds for 40 minute cycle, running fan as necessary to get below 78 deg C. After 40 Minutes, system shuts itself off.

As for the cool down comments in the thread, I think Loren addressed it in a previous thread regarding the puff of white smoke some owners see on startup. If I let mine idle a bit prior to shutdown, I don't get it... If I don't, it farts. I'm surprised I don't see more turbo timer discussions if this is an issue.

I purchased the book on Amazon, if anyone is interested. It is a British-published book, so should be widely available on your side of the pond!

Cheers,

Oscar

No worries... you got it right about the fun!!! Best part is buying used is a Bargain, too!!!

Pop the boot lid. There will be a label on the underside with all the options that were included at the factory. It will be a pile of 3 character alphanumeric codes. If it has X50 as one of the codes, you have 450HP, if it doesn't you don't. There are numerous websites that decode the options, for example: X54 Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipes or XRC; 18" Sport Techno wheels. Hope this helps..

According to Adrian Streather's book "Porsche 996 THE Essential Companion", he lists worldwide production for the 2001 Turbo as 5324. While on the thread... I have a 2004 Turbo Cab with the X50 Powerkit. Book shows 3099; any way to find out how many were delivered/ordered with the X50 option??

I wouldn't be overly afraid of maintenance issues either. Last month I traded in a 2001 C4 Cab (No issues for 5 years on a CPO car) for a 2004 Turbo Cab with X50. They look similar but might as well be made by different manufacturers, considering the unbelievable difference in performance. I purchased mine with 20,300 miles for $59,800. There was some rash on the undersides of the rocker panel covers and a cracked wheelwell liner, which were easily replaced. The dealer offers an extended warranty plan where max years/miles (retails for $6500) can be bought for $4200-ish. This is exactly like the platinum service contract offered on Audis (which I have on my 05 Allroad and my 04 A8L) where there is a 100$ deductible. I am going to schedule the "induction" inspection this week. I hear that the Turbo and X50 motors don't have the IMS issues but there appear to be differing opinions as to whether the RMS is an issue on these. (If it is, the 4K will be well spent, HA) Bottom line: there is nothing you can buy in this price range that even comes close, or will be this reliable. AFter I got the TT, I saw a CPO C2S cab that was 3 years newer, had more miles and they wanted 20K more than what I paid. NO CONTEST! Enjoy whatever you buy!

Thanks for the info on this... I just traded in my '01 C4 Cab for an '04 Turbo Cab with X50. Only had it a few days and gingerly winding it up here and there. Not used to this much power and PSDS only uses C2s so taking it easy here at first. Getting on the Freeway tonight, I got on it through 3rd into 4th and had what felt like the rev limiter kicking in; just a little higher RPM than you experienced. At first I figured i might have messed something up, but temps were up (never get above 3K RPM until 180+ degrees) and there were no lights. This car was babied, only 20K miles and owned by an older lady who only drove in town. How difficult was it for you to replace your MAF? I am not mechanically challenged (helicopter pilot) but not used to the lack of working space under the Porsche "hood". Thanks for any help you can provide

Cheers!