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Okay guys, I have been getting the CEL with this code for a while... reset, drive a few times, no light... then returns on way home from Autocross... So I order a post-cat O2 sensor and when I go to put it on, I notice that the Cat for bank 1 (Driver side) is on the other side because the exhaust crosses behind the engine... I assumed that since it monitored the exhaust from bank one that it just plugged in on the other side of the engine bay. I thought I was right because I drove it a few times with no light but on my way to Autocross last weekend, it came on again. Before I start undoing stuff, do I have it backwards or does the car look at it as Bank1 if the sensor is plugged in on the Bank 1 side. As anyone who has done this knows, it is a pain in the butt to get these in and out of a 996 GT3 so prior to subjecting myself to the discomfort, I figured I would solicit advice. Thanks!!!
You guys are gonna love this! I am posting it here as it appears to be a PCM2.X problem and not a 996/997 issue. So I noticed the same issue on my 2004 Turbo Cabriolet AFTER I reset the time for DST. No ability to move forward a day to the correct date. I am getting 8-11 Sats like everyone else and I have the most recent Navigation Discs. Car navigates flawlessly. Pretty much the same story, right? Here is where it gets odd...I borrowed my parents' 2004 Turbo Cabriolet (poor thing needed to be DRIVEN anyway) as both of our daily drivers were in the shop and theirs has the 2007 Nav Discs and the date reads PERFECTLY after the DST change but doesn't display the bottom-of-screen info (which I think is their software version but I am not sure). WTF?!
Greetings all- Noticing that my driver-side front brake duct is taking a beating, I thought I would look at replacing it and the 997 versions kept popping up. Since it clips to the lower suspension arm, fitment should not be an issue. Any reason not to spend the 10 bucks for both sides? It appears that it provides a little more ground clearance than the 996 GT3 ducts too...
Craig, Here is what I got back from Jae: So, when you remove the top mount from the car, take 2 of the 3 nuts off. make a line thru the bolt and the top mount so you can put it back to where it was..... should be ok if you put it back to where it is...... I pulled off the dust cover to look but it the bolt is recessed so I am not sure where he is talking about making the line, LOL.. I'll get clarification.
Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
Looking at my TT, the plastic rivets hold the splitter to the bottom of the front bumper cover. That hole has a screw with a washer that matches the shape of the hole in the splitter. Also of note, it appears your wheel liner is cracked... The heat really makes it brittle over time.. .I've replaced both my front liners. it should fit behind the edge of the splitter and the hole in the wheel liner should line up with the hole in the splitter. Hope this helps...
Good timing since I was just in there. That looks like the hose coming off the water pump. Not overly difficult as it is just a hose but getting at the ends is no fun because of the engine mounting plate and the mufflers. I'll leave it up to the more seasoned folks here but if yours is a 2003, it might make sense if you have to disassemble the rear of the car to replace the water pump while you're in there. (Mileage depending of course)
I'll look again but the lines to the wastegate controllers weren't touched. All I did was pull the muffler and cats off, replacing the studs, nuts and seals when I put it back together. Which one is the N75 valve? Thanks
Transitioning from previous thread to new one-- Replaced the water pump and performed the 60,000 mile service in my 04 Turbo Cab. Car runs great except now I am getting overboost to 1.0-1.3 bar. I don't hold it there to be sure. That said, I realize it is likely a vacuum issue but the only lines I touched during the repair are the one from the Y-Pipe to the switch and the one from the switch to the plastic line that goes to the driver side of the engine. Flashlight and inspection mirror show the 3rd line on the underside of the switch to be connected. Any thoughts on where else to look? Thanks Owen
I disagree that I don't understand how a shop works. I'm not going to explain my background and you likely don't (and shouldn't) care anyway so I'll leave it at this: If an independent shop costs the same for repairs as taking it to the Porsche dealership, except that the independent shop gives me a ride home in a Prius and the dealer gives me a new Macan to tear around in along with a better warranty on the parts and labor, what possible reason could there be for me to take my business to the independent shop?
Update: Took it to the local shop and they diagnosed the water pump bearing as definitely being bad. They quoted me $1700 to do the water pump and said it could be timing chains, which I don't believe for a second on this car with 59K miles. ESPECIALLY when they quoted $600+ for the parts and I can get a Factory Water Pump for $274. I ordered the thermostat as well as the turbo seals, etc per the Porsche Repair Manual, which this place did not quote in their exorbitant price. They also quoted me the 60,000 mile major maintenance (which I performed myself at 30K) for $1900 more. In the breakdown they wanted $740 to change the plugs, LOL... with 50% markup on Porsche parts (instead of Bosch or Beru) they were quoting over 4 hours labor and I have done it myself in well under 3. The bumper cover would already be off for the water pump! I purchased all the parts to do both jobs for $450. (Went with OEM water pump since it is the same thing Porsche slaps in one of their boxes). I am going to have a long conversation with these people about what they charge. Their labor rate is fine but the time they are quoting and the 50% markup over what I can source factory parts for (they should be able to get them cheaper than I can) has me suspect of their practices. I HATE UP-SELLING!!!!
Okay all, after being out of town all last week I was able to take a more directed look at this problem. I loosened the serpentine belt and checked the pulleys. No play anywhere except for the AC compressor wheel which had an almost imperceptible amount of play, but I would think that would be due to the clutch. Also there was just a hint of play on the deflector pulley on the left side of the engine. Drove around the neighborhood some more to check out the clicking/rattling noise and driving with the top down, the sound is DEFINITELY manifested on the right (passenger) side of the car. You can hear it best (at the 1800-2000 RPM) if you kinda cock your head behind the passenger seat... I bought an engine stethoscope and used it with the engine idling and nothing I touched with it sounded out of sorts. I rechecked the pentosin in the main reservoir and at operating temp it was still at the COLD mark so I added more and drove it around a bit to heat up and circulate... now the fluid level at operating temp reads about mid-way between the COLD and HOT MAX marks on the dipstick... not an exact estimate since the marks are on opposite sides... Drove it again and the noise somehow seems quieter but is still there... but that may just be in my head after straining to hear it so much... any more ideas??
To avoid confusion, I think there are two different issues... disregard my thoughts on the slave cylinder for now... separate issue (if it even is an issue). Drove the car a few miles at low RPM this morning and the clicking is most noticeable in 2nd gear when the clutch is engaged and the car is moving. For whatever reason I think 2nd gear provides the right engine RPM and vehicle speed speed so the wind noise and engine noise are low enough to hear the clicking or rattle. Even then it is very difficult to discern. I have been able to recreate it while stopped with the clutch in (disengaged), but it appears to go away when the clutch is disengaged and the car is moving, like if I were stopping at a stop sign... Got the air box off and am waiting for the compartment to cool down before I pull the belt and check the pulleys.
Agree with all. Checked the Pentosin this morning and fluid level in the PS reservoir is spot on. I'll pull some fluid out of the front reservoir and keep a closer eye on that. I think I may be getting the start of a slave cylinder issue again (replaced at 30,000-ish miles, now have ~58K on the car) as I have a little creak that I can feel in the clutch pedal. I'll pull the air box and check all the pulleys and advise with what I find. Thanks everyone!