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About OscarAH1W

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 04/19/1972

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Flying (1962 P35 Bonanza)

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  • From
    DFW, TX
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 GT3 Guards Red
    2004 Turbo Cabriolet Carrara White/Metropole Blue
    2005 Audi Allroad Quattro
    2007 Audi S8
  • Future cars
    Cayenne S with Air Suspension. (Can't drive the 2005 Allroad forever...)
  • Former cars
    2002 Corvette (Such junk that I went Porsche and never looked back)
    2001 Carrera4 Cabriolet (Set the hook...)
    2004 GT3 Midnight Blue... Tank Slapper...Tire wall...ouch!

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  1. JFP- 2004 GT3 (This is the 996 GT3 forum, isn't it?) and the original (intermittent) code was P2096 Oxygen Sensor Ageing Bank 1. It usually popped on the way home or on the first drive after an autocross. I purchased the correct Bosch O2 sensor and replaced it with the understanding that the POST CAT O2 sensor for bank 1 plugs into the OPPOSITE side of the car, right next to the bank 2 PRE cat sensor. After doing so, I still got a bank 1 O2 sensor light. Thinking that somehow Porsche wired things differently I naturally looked at the other post-cat O2 sensor that plugs in on the driver's
  2. Okay guys, I have been getting the CEL with this code for a while... reset, drive a few times, no light... then returns on way home from Autocross... So I order a post-cat O2 sensor and when I go to put it on, I notice that the Cat for bank 1 (Driver side) is on the other side because the exhaust crosses behind the engine... I assumed that since it monitored the exhaust from bank one that it just plugged in on the other side of the engine bay. I thought I was right because I drove it a few times with no light but on my way to Autocross last weekend, it came on again. Before I start undoin
  3. You guys are gonna love this! I am posting it here as it appears to be a PCM2.X problem and not a 996/997 issue. So I noticed the same issue on my 2004 Turbo Cabriolet AFTER I reset the time for DST. No ability to move forward a day to the correct date. I am getting 8-11 Sats like everyone else and I have the most recent Navigation Discs. Car navigates flawlessly. Pretty much the same story, right? Here is where it gets odd...I borrowed my parents' 2004 Turbo Cabriolet (poor thing needed to be DRIVEN anyway) as both of our daily drivers were in the shop and theirs has the 2007 Nav Discs
  4. Greetings all- Noticing that my driver-side front brake duct is taking a beating, I thought I would look at replacing it and the 997 versions kept popping up. Since it clips to the lower suspension arm, fitment should not be an issue. Any reason not to spend the 10 bucks for both sides? It appears that it provides a little more ground clearance than the 996 GT3 ducts too...
  5. Craig, Here is what I got back from Jae: So, when you remove the top mount from the car, take 2 of the 3 nuts off. make a line thru the bolt and the top mount so you can put it back to where it was..... should be ok if you put it back to where it is...... I pulled off the dust cover to look but it the bolt is recessed so I am not sure where he is talking about making the line, LOL.. I'll get clarification.
  6. Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
  7. Looking at my TT, the plastic rivets hold the splitter to the bottom of the front bumper cover. That hole has a screw with a washer that matches the shape of the hole in the splitter. Also of note, it appears your wheel liner is cracked... The heat really makes it brittle over time.. .I've replaced both my front liners. it should fit behind the edge of the splitter and the hole in the wheel liner should line up with the hole in the splitter. Hope this helps...
  8. Good timing since I was just in there. That looks like the hose coming off the water pump. Not overly difficult as it is just a hose but getting at the ends is no fun because of the engine mounting plate and the mufflers. I'll leave it up to the more seasoned folks here but if yours is a 2003, it might make sense if you have to disassemble the rear of the car to replace the water pump while you're in there. (Mileage depending of course)
  9. Statman- Thanks. It was the one on the bottom of the N75 valve. total pain putting the Y-pipe back together and ensuring none of the lines comes off the valve as it all goes in...
  10. I'll look again but the lines to the wastegate controllers weren't touched. All I did was pull the muffler and cats off, replacing the studs, nuts and seals when I put it back together. Which one is the N75 valve? Thanks
  11. Transitioning from previous thread to new one-- Replaced the water pump and performed the 60,000 mile service in my 04 Turbo Cab. Car runs great except now I am getting overboost to 1.0-1.3 bar. I don't hold it there to be sure. That said, I realize it is likely a vacuum issue but the only lines I touched during the repair are the one from the Y-Pipe to the switch and the one from the switch to the plastic line that goes to the driver side of the engine. Flashlight and inspection mirror show the 3rd line on the underside of the switch to be connected. Any thoughts on where else to look?
  12. I disagree that I don't understand how a shop works. I'm not going to explain my background and you likely don't (and shouldn't) care anyway so I'll leave it at this: If an independent shop costs the same for repairs as taking it to the Porsche dealership, except that the independent shop gives me a ride home in a Prius and the dealer gives me a new Macan to tear around in along with a better warranty on the parts and labor, what possible reason could there be for me to take my business to the independent shop?
  13. Update: Took it to the local shop and they diagnosed the water pump bearing as definitely being bad. They quoted me $1700 to do the water pump and said it could be timing chains, which I don't believe for a second on this car with 59K miles. ESPECIALLY when they quoted $600+ for the parts and I can get a Factory Water Pump for $274. I ordered the thermostat as well as the turbo seals, etc per the Porsche Repair Manual, which this place did not quote in their exorbitant price. They also quoted me the 60,000 mile major maintenance (which I performed myself at 30K) for $1900 more. In the br
  14. Okay all, after being out of town all last week I was able to take a more directed look at this problem. I loosened the serpentine belt and checked the pulleys. No play anywhere except for the AC compressor wheel which had an almost imperceptible amount of play, but I would think that would be due to the clutch. Also there was just a hint of play on the deflector pulley on the left side of the engine. Drove around the neighborhood some more to check out the clicking/rattling noise and driving with the top down, the sound is DEFINITELY manifested on the right (passenger) side of the car. Y
  15. To avoid confusion, I think there are two different issues... disregard my thoughts on the slave cylinder for now... separate issue (if it even is an issue). Drove the car a few miles at low RPM this morning and the clicking is most noticeable in 2nd gear when the clutch is engaged and the car is moving. For whatever reason I think 2nd gear provides the right engine RPM and vehicle speed speed so the wind noise and engine noise are low enough to hear the clicking or rattle. Even then it is very difficult to discern. I have been able to recreate it while stopped with the clutch in (disenga
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