Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

ALLSPEED

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    165
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ALLSPEED

  1. You don't have to tear apart the whole engine just to replace the clutch, RMS, and throw out bearing. Where do you what to stop. Replace everything that anyone on here has ever seen go bad ? Examine everything you can get to but beware of doing too many unnecessary replacements. Sometime you will read about how horrible this and that design is and find in reality that there haven't really been that many failures. Ask Loren or RFM what they would check at that many miles. Good Lucj,Robert
  2. Just checked the operation of the engine compartment fan on my 99 996 c2 and it blows" into" the engine compartment. Their is an arrow on the blade confirming that this is correct.
  3. There should be a drain on the other side of the battery that comes out the drivers wheel arch at least on 996's.
  4. Thanks for the help Maurice. There are two drains on the driver side from the battery or cowl compartment, both coming out the wheel arch and openly accessible.The one from the floor goes through a grommet and one on the side with a little flap.The passenger side has just one that goes on the inside of the frame, right behind the front suspension and you must pull off the front under-body panel . All that work and the drain was clean. There is a little nylon bracket on the end that it was tied to and yes this drain just flows onto under-body panel and there is no particular hole for it. Water comes out the lowest points. They must be one piece because my U.K. manual says to blow them out. Interestingly it says to blow the two accessible from the wheel arch back into the cowl and the other from the top. These are important as if you don't keep these clean rain water or car washing can pool in there. Thanks again, Robert.
  5. On my 99 996 it's used for the battery compartment drain, drivers side. Maybe Porsche moved the drain and left the hole or the drain moved and left the hole.
  6. Let me rephrase the whole question. What's the easiest way to get to the tube?
  7. While checking my pollen filter on my 99 996 C2 I was cleaning debris from my battery compartment and pulled some from the drain on the bottom (pass side,behind batt). Poured water into it and it was plugged. Tried to snake with wire to no avail. Was hesitant but pressurized with air and heard a pop. Water drained but is coming out under bottom pan of car in several spots. Is this normal or did I blow the hose apart at a connection somewhere and should I do surgery just for this. I never saw it drain before so I don't know if it should come out in one spot. My diagram is vague. Thanks
  8. I plan on ordering a third radiator kit for my 996 and would like to know from someone who has seen several of these if they are all of the same quality. If not who sells the best?
  9. Thanks for an answer RFM. If these little panels or spoilers create a vacuum to help exhaust the hot air then would adding vents or holes disrupt this? Not having other manuals than my 996 do the models that have venting in the wheel well exclude these bottom holes or they completely different? How many 996's have you seen with those little spoilers dangling from one end? I have one on order myself. Sounds like they are more important than I realized. After reading many threads on many sites it seems that 996's naturally run a little warm. I don't believe I have a cooling problem but facing my first 110 degree summer with this car in Central California I don't want to be caught with my pants down. If I understand the theory the key factors that I'm looking at are surface area(third radiator) and air flow for heat exchange. I plan on adding a third radiator for peace of mind as this makes sense to me. The other is air flow and I was interested if anyone had any input on that. I don't feel like butchering my wheel wells but wanted to know if there were updated Porsche or DIY alternatives and if they help and how much. Thanks again, Robert.
  10. Do we have any new input on this? After looking at my real engine temps on my HVAC controls I see a need to increase my cooling. I'm planing on a third radiator but am stymied as to the air flow through the existing radiators on my 99 996 C2. Looking at diagrams I have I can't see a clear path for the hot air to escape like the ones with vented wheel liners. Am I missing something? Guy's out there with knowledge of the air flow please help. How does this hot air escape? I left myself open with that last remark.
  11. I am in total agreement with the enclosed box concept and fresh air. They could have built the wall of the heat shield up higher around the throttle body but it would have made it harder for DIY'ers. There is some isolation with the deck lid closed and the filter sits directly below the engine cooling fan so it gets fresh air through the louvers also. Modifying the heat shield would not be that hard and I may play with that at the expense of having it look funky. Aerodynamics is the name of the game also. Isn't the object to get as much air (I realize the cooler the better) into the engine as possible. That's what turbos do. How come Porsche car bodys are so sleek yet the tunnel for air intake such a maze? Noise pollution! The stock air box is a compromise to performance because of noise, in my opinion. Why do people disconnect their mufflers at the track? Just for sound? High flow cats? I guess I could go on and on but since I have no hard facts so what the heck. I am happy with the system though it could isolate cold air a little better as toronto states. My reason for the post was to show others how it looks and what my opinion was. Does it feel better, sort of, how's that. Have a great weekend, Robert.
  12. Are you going to leave your front license plate off now as it looks like it restricts air flow?
  13. Couldn't wait till morn. Needed to park car anyway. Speedo reads 2.5 mph faster than actual. Less than I thought. Engine coolant gauge reads 10 to 12 degrees cooler than actual. Bummer! This is awesome. Thanks again Rob. Robert
  14. Cool. Thanks so much Rob. Will print and try it out. Robert
  15. Do you think that $200 red silicone hose people are putting between their air box and throttle body has any merit? I think the K&N does. Look at all the money made on plenum's for TT's. Wrong thread but real snake oil. Let me ask Loren something else. If you tried this setup and you noticed a good difference, would you keep it?
  16. I guess this is one of those things that you have to try, to believe if you don't believe me. I believe in God and I've never seen him. It is a lot of money for the materials but I'm happy and just wanted to show others what it looks like. No, I did not get rid of my old air box because I wasn't sure either and if I didn't notice any difference I would have put it right back on because I'm not into dolling my car up with a bunch of crap. I prefer the stock look but this is under the hood and I think looks as clean as possible. I hadn't seen any posts on this and thought I would put it out. No written claims, just the hemmoraging veins in my cheeks from G-force. LOL I've got an idea, you've got the connection. I've got a 996 stock except for intake and I believe your motor is stock. Get one more and a dyno and I'll take my stuff to Roseville. I know you don't have free time with all your effort on this site and probably don't care about K&N but I would be willing to bet five Big Bens that if we could test it correctly there would be a noticeable gain in pull. I am not promoting anyones claim of amounts just some added power that didn't cost that much compared to some of the money spent on manifolds,headers,etc. In fact I will give you five Bens and you give me nothing if it doesn't. Get a dyno and some time to blow K&N out of the water or eat a little crow.
  17. I agree with you on claims that companies make. I'm not saying that I believe their dyno claims, just that in my feeble little mind I do feel an increase in pull from 4000 rpm. No horsepower or torque figures but a noticeable difference and I don't think it is just because I spent $340. I wish you could have driven it before and after for your honest opinion. I would like to see some honest test but all I am going on is my experience. Is that fair?
  18. A couple of weeks ago I installed this K&N intake on my 99 996. I am more than happy with it. To me there is a very noticeable increase in power from about 4000 r's. I can feel it pull harder and the front end seems to lift more from the increased torque. K&N makes some dyno claims that are impressive for a bolt on upgrade. I don't know how exact they are but I think it was money well spent for performance. The K&N installation instructions are very thorough and it took me about three hours most of which was spent trying to get the heat shield as square as I could. The only thing I couldn't do was turn the connector for the MAF around because mine is molded. It cost $340 plus tax. For those of you who like a sports car sound it also adds that when accelerating hard. Very different than stock. Kind of throaty if that makes sense. Anyway, for you naturally aspirated guys, IT REALLY WORKS. Thread or PM if you want more info. Robert. P.S. The ends of the foam molding on edges of the heat shield need to be trimmed and that will make it look more square. I'm waiting to see if it shrinks any before I trim it.
  19. I have a 99 996 C2 6spd and searched but didn't find this. Did I understand someone saying you could monitor engine temp. from the HVAC controls? If so, teach me please.
  20. No picture but take off the face and they slide in on the left and right edge. Search the net, I've seen a pic. before. Good luck.
  21. Went back through my service records and found plugs had been changed at 60k mile service. Shucks, I was almost looking forward to changing them and the tubes after all the good write ups here. Do we sometimes do more to our car's than necessary?
  22. I may be naive but could could someone explain "airbagging" a window. I've got an idea but not for sure. Just curious.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.