ALLSPEED

That's a good one. The smallest note my dealer will take has a picture of Ben Franklin and it takes lots of those. Listen to Mark get the PPI and you may sleep a little more sound.

Can't push the rest of the coolant out with compressed air through the end of the hose?

There is a DIY under 996 common fixes. He's using 3M. Good luck.

Chevron is what I use in all my vehicles but this time I added the bottle of Techroline Additive because I am the car's third owner and not knowing what's been in it in the past I thought I would give it a good cleaning. Texaco is about a dime cheaper around here but I think I'll stick with Chevron. A mechanic pulled a head off a Prelude I had with 50,000 miles and the first thing he said was "You must use Chevron" because the valves were clean as a whistle. Good Stuff but still only 91 octane.

Bought and used the CRC MAF cleaner. It say's "Proven to Gain 4-10 HP at the wheels. If I use 10 cans will I get a 40 to 100 HP gain? LOL Just kidding.

Headed to the parts store now. Thanks for the expedient answer Loren. You are the man!

Electronic cleaner O.K. ?

Scared to try a fuel additive I succumbed after reading here that others have added Techroline successfully. Filled tank two days ago and added bottle of Techroline. This afternoon I got CEL. Checked with OBD2 and got p1125 which reset. The OBD said P1125 was air temp sensor but searched here and found it means Oxygen Sensing Adaption Area 1 (cylinders4-6)- Lean Threshold. Do you think the Techroline could cause this? Also have a K&N filter but it has been on for over a month with no trouble. It is a 1999 996 C2 3.4 6 spd.

If it is a clear PVC hose with a 90 degree connector it may be the battery vent.

Thanks Loren. That piece has bugged me for the longest and I would not have guessed under the seat. Thanks again, Robert.

I found this piece in my car when I bought it used and have yet to figure where it goes. The part# is 99652131700 and is called a "HIDER". The car is a 99 996 C2 6sp. Any ideas?

Something for sure to watch for!

There's already a fair amount of sound insulation in those areas, especially for a sports car. Instead of tearing out your interior and installing Dynamat on everything I'd go back to OEM. Not to editorialize, but what sounds cool to you on-throttle in your cabin may disturb the rest of us outside, and at part throttle disturbs you. Seems like a lose-lose to me for an expensive part that doesn't realize any real power gain.

To each their own however. If you find a solution, please share.

Mark

So what is reasonable gain? 1,2,3,5,7,10 percent or more?

Do you think one could adapt it to fit a 996?

Were you in the lead?

You might want to ask this guy directions also.

I do not think that air would mix with fuel.

Paul

Have you ever noticed that there are air bubbles mixed with the gas as it comes out the nozzle? The thing we call a pump is actually just a meter and it has trouble not monitoring some air with the gas. When you put gas in slowly not as much air gets mixed in and you get more gas for your money. Never have did a full squeeze on the nozzle and felt bubbles rushing through and then the gas must settle when you shut it off. That's air!

Is the alternator pulley straight and all others?

The old one snaps in and out and there may not be a ball welded on the left. Replace the bad .

I was told by a gas pump mechanic that if you squeeze the handle all the way you get more air mixed in the gas meaning less value. I've never proved it.

You might be too late.

Sorry, I can not agree that low mileage cars are more prone to IMS failures. I do not see how mileage plays a role - especially low mileage.

If the right tolerances occur in any given engine there will be a failure. Some engines fail but many do not fail.

I own a low mileage MY99 3.4 liter car and my feelings are - if it happens then it happens. I'll deal with it when it happens.

So for my 2 cents - if the car runs well and does not leak oil from the RMS or IMS - I would leave it alone.

AMEN sorry,wrong thread

I am watching the filter very closely. i have been doing some experiments to it especially bringing cold air in through the fan motor hole directly above the filter. I need to buffer the air as it comes in the deck hole because after running at high speed it's great but when you stop the idle fluctuates. i guess it mapped itself with ram induction. You can go around the block with high rpm's and low speed and it will fix itself. I just don't want it breathing hot air.Who knows, I still have my stock box . Trying to make it work correctly, Robert

You don't have to tear apart the whole engine just to replace the clutch, RMS, and throw out bearing. Where do you what to stop. Replace everything that anyone on here has ever seen go bad ? Examine everything you can get to but beware of doing too many unnecessary replacements. Sometime you will read about how horrible this and that design is and find in reality that there haven't really been that many failures. Ask Loren or RFM what they would check at that many miles. Good Lucj,Robert

No worries Robert. I'm willing to bet that it does sound a lot beting that this is correct.ter when you step on it. I wish I had access to injection molding equipment - I would love to try out some ram air enclosed housing designs for these cone air filter systems. The other thing is the design of the upper plastic grill work on the top of the OEM wing could be enhanced for better airflow into the intake. FYI: the engine bay fan draws air out of the engine area - not pulling it in. The idea is to cause negative pressure so that the heat is sucked out instead of pressurizing the engine bay which would stall out the cooling effect.

Most people do report a 'crisper' throttle response with the e gas and aftermarket intakes so that might be worth the money right there. I've got access this summer (I help out with tech inspection sometimes) to a portable dyno at the track (Mosport) that I might try out with a before/after test of the CAI against the OEM pipe to see if there is any HP gain.

Cheers - keep it shiny side up!

Just checked the operation of the engine compartment fan on my 99 996 c2 and it blows" into" the engine compartment. Their is an arrow on the blade confirming that this is correct.

There should be a drain on the other side of the battery that comes out the drivers wheel arch at least on 996's.