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chubert
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My only guess would be the tool provides a very precise amount of pressure where the regular tensioners probably vary quite a bit
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Ok makes sense. Why would the pelican article about replacing the chain tensioners say you dont need the special tool. What is the trick he does? I saw an sir kit that had most of the "timing" tools online for about $550. It had the various hold down tools and tool to lock the motor. I figured i would buy that kit or piece it together depending on what i "really" need.
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One more thing. I read the article on pelican about changing the tensioners and the only thing that is not really clear to me is what the porsche timing tool that threads in to the case is really doing. It looks adjustable. How do you ensure proper tension when re installing the pulley to the cam? What does the p tool do differently than the standard screw in tensioner? I will go review the manual again tonight but you seem to have great experience in this so first hand experience is better...
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Thanks for your concern as i can see its well intended! I am planning on buying the generic 9634 tool for the cover as well as the timing tool if i have to remove the cams. I also read the procedure on finding tdc but it seemed so simple i thought maybe i was missing something. If i get into this and Dont feel comfortable its 100% assembled properly i will flatbed it to an indie. The assembly actually looks straight forward im mostly con erned working within in the confines of the car.
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I am determined to take on this project in my own garage. I have convinced myself with the cam hold down tool i can safely get to the solenoid to remove. I am not convinced yet i will remove the cams if the actuator is bad. But like Jeremey Clarkson says "how hard can it be?". Looks like i will remove the cover and bench test the solenoid first. Its not my daily driver so if its apart in the garage waiting for parts no biggie. Any tips on finding tdc on bank 2 and holding i there if i decide to remove the cams afterall?
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Since these things are so expensive is it wise to buy a used actuator? Can they be tested outside the car?
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Update... After applying voltage directly to the Solenoid with the car off I reset the CEL and went for a drive. After 5 miles it now has a pending P1524. This is the first time as it always has been a P1539. Looks more like the actuator is sticking if that's possible.
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Hia ll, I have been chasing a P1539 code for a while on my 99 Boxster. It has 55K. It posts a "pending" P1539 code within 10 miles after clearing the CEL. Then after 500 miles it lights the CEL. I have reset it 3-4 times this summer. The CEL never flashes and no misires or other codes have popped up. There is a very very small change in RPM up and down at idle all the time. I have done the following so far. Tested the connector from the DME and get 12V with the key on. Applied 12V directly to the solenoid and it "clicks" Applied 12V to the other solonoid and I get the same exact click. If the actuator was bad would I be getting different codes? Is this typical of a bad solenoid? What would be the next step in troubleshooting? Am I looking in the correct place?? Thanks
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Update : I am back to thinking it's an actuator or Solenoid. I thought the first code was a P1530 but it really was a 1524. They are both on Bank 2. I think this is a good thing!!! I'll run it for a few more cycles and see if anyting else pops up.
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Interesting thoughts. Until I got the 1539 I was just assuming I needed to change the Solenoid or actuator on Bank 1 due to the 1130 code. Now I am not sure. I reset the P1159 and it showed "pending" again about 7 miles later but the light has not come back on yet. I reset it again and I will see how it behaves ont he ride home. How would I check my camshaft deviation when the car is running? I do have a bit of clatter when starting it cold. but is goes away after 2 seconds or so. Could the plasitc chain guides be worn? Thanks Chris
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I am researching some trouble codes and need some help. A couple weeks ago I got a "Pending" P1530 code but no CEL light. Just last week the light lit up and when I scanned it it had a "P1539" The 1530 was gone…. What confuses me is these are "Cam Adjustmnet" errors which seem to typically be a solenoid or actuator but the two codes are on two separate banks?? Is there something in common that would post both codes? It seems to run an idle fine. I have owned to for about 1700 miles without issue so far... The car is a 99 2.5 Boxster with 53K.