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skymast

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Posts posted by skymast

  1. OK. i read the tread and am still struggling. I have this problem ... had the alternator tested at Advanced Auto ... they said it is putting out low voltage and needs to be replaced .... can i just replace the diode pack OR do i need to replace the alternator?

    Also, i am having trouble figuring out what the appropriate part number is for the diode back .... FOOM-145-225 from the pelican parts forum does not seam to be a valid part number.

    thx!

  2. OK. I have this EXACT same problem on an 02 with about the same miles or about the same time frame. What i have noticed is that this problem typically happens after I fill the car up with gas. Also, it did it before and after I change the spark plugs.

    The bucking that you describes happens basically at lower RPMs when i am driving away from a dead stop and through 1 - 2 - 3 gears ... almost like its fuel starved. after a few really annoying minutes it stops and runs pretty well.

    Mark

    Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum. Very impressive collection of users, post and knowledge!

    Anyways, I have a 03 996TT that now has 53k miles. I've owned the car since 18k miles (about 2.5 years) and I've had the same problem since day one. The problem is that when I change gears and start to give it a little gas that the engine suddenly stumbles for a fraction of a second. The oil pressure guage drops quickly and then resumes its regular pressure reading. The same stumble happens when I let off the gas while in the same gear and then begin to slowing accelerate again... the engine stumbles, oil pressure drops quickly and then recovers.

    I've taken the car to several dealers who have not been able to figure it out - perhaps because the computer isn't throwing off any fault codes - and without codes they are too lazy to diagnose the problem.

    The problem is really annoying because its feels like a bucking bronco - just not smooth acceleration at all. Since there are no error codes, I can't seem to find anyone that can figure out what is going on.

    Has anyone experienced this problem and does anyone know what the issue could be?????

    Thank you!

    Russ

  3. Loren, I think he is talking about fluid migration coming from overfilled clutch reservoir( "on the plastic around the filler cap") due to fluid migration from steering system to clutch system. It is due to a faulty slave. I had the same problem a year ago and did a DIY because of this problem....

    Yes, that is correct, it appears to be coming from the overfilled clutch reservoir( "on the plastic around the filler cap"). thx!

  4. Intercooler hoses from that year are not the newer silicone ones unless the previous owner changed them. If not silicone they will fail and collapse causing significant power losses.

    Just curious how you know this has occurred ... is it that dramatic of a power loss where the car basically shuts down? Also, can you inspect the coil packs without removing a lot of stuff?

    Thx!

  5. It is the stock 997 shifter that you need buy. Sorry, i dont have the part number but in the USA it is approximately $160. It is a 'simple' replace and no other parts are required. In short, you need to remove the center console, then remove / replace the shifter (this takes less time than removing the console) and put the console back in.

    Hello

    I have a 03 TT and I would like to improve my shifter, and by all the previous post it seems that the best way is to go for a 997 shifter.

    My questions are: is it the normal 997 shifter (if somebody has the part number) and if it is a simple replace or do I have to buy something else to do it.

    Thank you

  6. I just did a full pad and rotor replacement yesterday on my 02 996 TT w/ 50K miles. Many thanks to renntech and the contributors to this thread. This DIY made it a very simple task to complete in 2 1/2 hours. As a frame of reference, i was quoted $2300+ from the dealer in Nashville and i did it with parts from Suncoast for ~800 (note, i did not replace the sensors or purchase the bolt kit). 2 1/2 hours of my time to save $1,500 was definitely worth my time!

  7. Sorry to resurrect this but i am still having the same problem with my 02 Turbo. I took it into the dealer a few weeks ago (they replaced the purge valve / vent pipe (part # 996 110 129 72)) and I am still having the same issue every time i fill up.

    As a summary - every time i fill up my car, I hit a huge dead spot under lower RPM acceleration. It feels like the engine is just not getting fuel for a brief second and then all is well (until i shift gears again and the RPMs drop down) It gets back to normal after 5 mins or so and there are no signs of the problem when the car is idling. It has been doing this for a long time and it happens every time.

    Thanks in advance!

  8. I finished installing the 997 Shifter. This took about 40 Mins, max. Probably faster for me largely because i have removed the console numerous times in the past and knew were all the hidden screws were.

    I took the car for a spin, and this is far better than stock. I would guess the throws are 20% or so shorter with a lot less slop than the stock shifter.

    The B&M instructions were very helpful as well as the other posts on the topic here. Many thanks for the assistance.

  9. I am not opposed to that as long as i can pul the mileage / brains out of my old one. Thx for the advice.

    Do you need a brand new clutster, or could someone like Silverstar or Oklahoma Foreign provide you with a cluster out of a car or parts of a car they might have in their inventory???? I've used a number of "recycled" parts in the interest of trying to save some $$$. Maybe this concept is unacceptable....but it has worked for me on a number of occasions. I usually buy the parts I need at 1/3 to 1/2 of the retail cost. Again....your mindset is key to this approach.
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