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Everything posted by jim_h

  1. I see that this thread as well as many of the posts on this board are quite old, I wonder if many are using this. I had what sounds like a similar issue, after driving for a while between say 40 and 60 mph I would get a very noticeable resonance or whistle. it was kind of like an "A" note, fifth fret on the high E string for you guitar players out there. This went on for a while and it was driving me nuts as I could not tell where it was coming from. Searching forums showed that I was not the only one hearing this. My first clue was when I noticed that the sound went away every time I touched the brakes. My brakes were not worn out but they were a bit squealy and the rotors were not great. I think the PO replaced pads and did not replace or resurface the rotors as there was a noticeable lip on the outer circumference of each one. So last Saturday I replaced all pads and rotors and voila- resonant whistle is GONE!
  2. My car started doing this a number of months ago, it's a 2000 non S that I bought in April 2010 with 93K miles. Did not hear the sound until after about a year of ownership and I have no idea whether the PO had it as well. For me it's hard to tell where it is coming from, at first I thought it was from behind the seats but it could be coming from the right side of the dash. I never hear it when I start the car and take off, it always comes on after about 20-30 minutes of driving and at speeds around 40-45 mph. It sounds to me like a vibration, especially as it fades in and out, maybe a harmonic the it hits under certain conditions (temperature, speed). I wonder it there is a rubber seal or strip between two metal parts that has slipped or deteriorated, allowing the parts to contact. Whatever it is, good luck to all of us finding it...
  3. I installed the Kenwood X995 yesterday and I am happy with the way it looks and sounds, but unfortunately still no sound from the door speakers. Talking with the the Crutchfield (bought it online from them) technical rep the fix for that is not simple. All options will require new speakers all around and I can either replace the amp or bypass it and run directly from the Kenwood. If I choose the latter I can either utilize existing wiring or run new ones. Haven't decided which way to go on any of these options, input welcome. Here are a couple of photos of the new head unit installed. Car is a 2000 Boxster, not an S.
  4. Did not know that, thanks for the heads up. I did replace the ignition switch about a year ago but anything can happen.
  5. Well not only do I have this faceplate problem, the door speakers are not working now. Time for a new stereo. I was tempted to get the Nakamichi CD 400 for the aesthetics but instead I just ordered a Kenwood CDR X995 to get all the modern conveniences - Bluetooth, Pandora, hand free calling, etc. The unit is not too flashy and I should be able to match the display color with the dashboard illumination so I think it will look like it belongs. Hopefully the head unit is the reason for the dead door speakers, if not I'll be buying a new amp as well.
  6. Loren, that's the problem. The faceplate won't rotate to the open position, when I push the arrow button nothing happens.
  7. On my 2000 Boxster with the Bose sound system, all the sudden the cd door/removeable face plate won't swing open. Pushing the button does nothing although you can feel something mechanical going on behind there. Anyone else have this problem?
  8. It's the On-Board computer described on p66 of the owners manual. The lever is right under the steering wheel at 8:00, push up or down and it steps through mpg, miles until empty, outside temp, etc. The readout is at 6:00 on the tach under mph.
  9. There seems to be a bit more power with the new pump but the drop off was not something that I noticed. When the pump went there was some stumbling, then when I parked it and came out of the store the car would not start. I had to have it towed (flatbedded) home.
  10. Thought I would pass this observation along, it might save someone some grief. On my 2000 Boxster (112K miles) the fuel pump died a couple of weekends ago, left me stranded in the Autozone parking lot (was buying oil for the Honda). At first I thought, wow that was sudden but then I thought about it and there was a warning sign that showed up well before the failure. I usually keep the gas mileage function up on the dash and it typically varies a couple of mpg depending on where I have beed driving - freeway, stop and go, around town, etc. A couple of months ago it stopped doing that and held steady at one number - 26.1 mpg, relatively high in the usual range. Since replacing the pump, it is now back to it's previous behavior. It did that for maybe 2 or 3 thousand miles before the pump crapped out so if any of you see that same thing you might want to think about checking your fuel pump. Jim
  11. Hi all, Has this happened to anyone else - last week I got rear ended with almost zero noticeable damage. Surprising because the guy gave me a pretty good pop but the only visible damage is a barely noticeable scuff on the bumper, a small scratch on the overrider and a dent in my license plate. But over the weekend I tried to put the top down and the windows lower like they are supposed to when I pull the latch but push the button and nothing happens. It was working fine a few days before the hit. The guy has Geico and so far they are cooperating but when I took it to their recommended shop and mentioned the top problem they said that they would make note of it but it will be up to me to have it checked by a mechanic for a diagnosis. Also, the dealer tells me that the bumper shocks do not need to be replaced after being compressed (like my son's Audi). Anyone have experience with those? Jim
  12. Hi everyone, Add me to the list of inadvertant horn blowers. Heat seems to aggravate the situation and yesterday was HOT so when I got into my car to drive home from work the horn was tooting away as I pulled out of the parking lot. Removed the fuse for the ride home to avoid ~20 miles of potential road rage. So I was planning on just buying a new horn cradle - $96 from the Porsche dealer but the silicone or o-ring solutions looks like they are worth a try. But I still have two questions before I start: do I need to pull the steering wheel or are the worn bushings exposed when just the airbag is removed? The Bently manual tells you how to remove the air bag but there are no warnings about triggering the air bag warning light. Is the procedure from a previous post (key in key out etc) correct for preventing that from happening? Thanks, Jim
  13. So this turned out to be a worn ball joint, and I ended up replacing the control arm with one from TRW. I took the car to a recommended alignment shop and when he pushed down on the fender and heard the squeak he said that is was probably the ball joint especially when he noticed that just a very small amount of movement would make the noise. When I told him about jacking the car up until the wheel was off the ground and then the noise going away, that was an "ah ha" moment and he said that pretty much confirms that the ball joint is bad. Evidently when the load is removed the joint shifts around slightly and that affects the interference or whatever is rubbing in there. I changed the control arm myself, following the Bently manual it was easy and took about 1 /2 hours. I used a pickle fork to separate the ball joint. Hope this description is helpful to some other owner. Cheers, Jim
  14. I just put a couple of Falken ZE 912s on my rear, so far so good. Decent grip and quieter than the Sumitomos that came off but they were down to the wear bars so comparison may not be fair. Good price from Vulcan tire at $106 each and shipping was reasonable.
  15. Got a frustrating thing going on with my left front suspension, maybe someone has had similar symptoms or can give me a clue. Starting about a week ago after my 25 minute freeway commute home I heard a very noticeable squeek coming from the front. When I got home I bounced the car and got the same squeek. A couple of days later after a drive with car squeeking I jacked up the front to get some big wood blocks under the tire so I could get underneath and see what component is making the noise and it did not squeek when my son bounced it. Jacked up the rear then thinking maybe that would make a difference but no squeek. I have repeated this twice with the same result. So the symptoms are, start out from cold - no squeek, drive for a while and it squeeks, park it, bounce it and it squeeks, then jack it up onto blocks, bounce it and no squeek. If I park it after a drive and let sit for 15 minutes it is still squeeking, but eventually it stops. The squeek is very noticeable at low speeds going over normal road bumps. The car has 106K miles. Struts? Bushings? Control arm?
  16. Hi guys, Merry Christmas! Next week I'm planning on putting 4 new Falken ZE 912 tires on my 2000. Anyone have any experience pro or con with these tires and also, the previous owner put 215s on the front, slightly oversize. Any thoughts on that vs the stock 205 width? I like to toss the car around every once in a while but for the most part my driving is law abiding. I could do an occasional autocross with it but I have another car that is first choice, and I don't go balls out with either one, just looking for some grins. Thanks, Jim San Jose, CA
  17. <<There is also a remote possibility that your electric motor hit a dead spot. In that case, try to smack the electric motor with a very small hammer to see if that will "unstick" it. Keep us posted with any other symptoms or progress.>> Ok, a couple of taps with a plastic hammer while pushing the button on the dash and off she went, go figure. So if any one is interested I purchased my top from a supplier in southern Cal, this is the third top I have bought from him (different cars, of course) and he has been great for price and service. The Boxster top was $439 plus tax and free shipping - German canvas with a green tinted vinyl window. I had intended to buy either and Easyon or Robbins, but he told me that he has his own line in addition to those that he feels is equal to the other two and less expensive. I asked him to give me a reference and he gave me the name of an installer near Sacramento. I called the guy and he said that he has had no problems with these tops and feels that they are of equal quality to the name brands. As I mentioned above the top went on with no issues, the only problem was minor - the relief in the fiberboard at the front needed to be opened up a little to clear the bosses on the front bow where the screws go. My dremel tool made quick work of that. The top looks great, tight and no wrinkles. Also, I ended up not using the 3M tape recommended by Chris in NH (and on Mike Focke's page) except for the front bow because I did not like its thickness, the original tape had no thickness to speak of. For the rear seal and the aluminum plates I used Weldwood Contact Cement original formula. Added a little time but worked great. Being new to this forum I don't know what the norm is for vendor shout outs so if anyone wants the supplier name feel free to email me or I can post if it is ok. I have no connection or vested interest in his business, just passing the word on. And lastly, this top install was not easy. It was definately the toughest one of the three I have now installed. Cheers, Jim
  18. Thanks Maurice, I will follow up on all your suggestions. It will take me a few days, right now I need to change an O2 sensor on an Audi A4 that I'm trying to sell and our 98 Accord needs front brake pads and rotors. I have too many cars to take care of... As an update on the Boxster I was able to close the top by pulling the cables out of the motor and turning them with a reversible drill motor. It closed with no problem and the good news is it is nice and tight with no wrinkles! So at least for now I can drive the car while I sort out this motor problem. Jim
  19. I just finished replacing the top on my 2000 Boxster and when I went to close it for the first time it would not fully close. I tried twice but did not push it too hard not wanting to put strain on the mechanisms and motor. It was nightime and I figured I would put it in the sun today and re-try. I think the last thing I did was back it off a little. The top is now open about six inches. Now when I push the button to either close or open, nothing happens - no clicks, clunks, nothing. I checked both fuses in Row B and D and they are fine. The installation went smoothly although I did drop one of the self tapping screws that holds the u-shaped channel - the rearmost one. I could not find it and am not sure exacly where it fell, maybe it went down the shoulder harness hole or maybe down the drain. Could it be jammed somewhere and messing things up? Any suggestions? Thanks, Jim
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