Sunnyside

This is the attitude that i like, keep up the good work JP! ps. for everybody is hard in these days but when you go out in the night with the windows down the radio off just to cruise in the 996turbo all the problems disappear :P Totally agree in all respects .....thank you. Frank

Hi JP, Sorry to hear about your problems. As you will know I post on here and 6. You will have seen the problems I have had and will still have. It seems to me its part of the course. I still have random key issues. Took it in to OPC for warranty repair and it started working again . It has been doing this on and off for a while. I need it to do it at the OPC then the warranty will fix the problem. If they know what it is.... Keep us informed on the key issue. It is one of the regular problems most people complain about, that and the Alarm module. IMO. Good Luck and keep the faith. Frank.

I take it the oil pressure light does not come on? It must be a common problem with our cars, my sender unit was changed under warranty for the same fault as yours. If you can get the car on a ramp, get some one to sit in the car and check the gauge whilst you go and have a good tug and pull of as much of the wires and harness near the sender as you can. If not see if there are any dash fault codes. Do you have access to a Durametric. Sounds like a dodgy connection. The thing is, Porsche changed mine. moral dilema it was just a simple connection, would they say so or charge the warranty company for a new unit and Labour?(It might not be the sender unit). Keep us all informed. Frank.

Fred, Its obvious you love your Cab, why not keep it until you find a Turbo Cab. If your not too bothered about Power and upgrades why worry. You are in a great position. You have no issues with your ride and you love it. There's your answer. All the best with whatever you decide. Frank.

minimum £1000 plus days of pain of forum searches (not this forum)/downloads/soldering or you can become porsche dealer and buy one legaly for about $20k plus some annual maintanance payments :eek: As I wrote on PH thats alot of DIY repairs I would have to pay for when the majority of faults can be Diagnosed with Durametric and the new parts fitted without the need for coding. Thanks for the info. :cheers: Frank

Hi loren, Alas I bought the Durametric thinking it did coding. only me to blame on that. I am now trying to find out how much a PIWIS tester is and where from. The other problem is getting the codes. Frank

Hi, If you own a Durameric and think you can code in new modules, for eg. a new alarm-vl unit, Tiptronic unit or PSM /ABS module, then I have found out today ...You Cant. Had a good e-mail chat with Owen Sutton Durametric Software Inc www.durametric.com He said only your OPC can do this. BUMMER ! I was hoping to be able to do all my own repairs. So You have still got to go to Porsche even if you buy a new control unit from another source much cheaper. Frank

Thanks for your input Danyol, When it says radio receiver it means in this case the key fob radio transmitter/receiver. Both key fobs failed to work. I was wondering if the GT3 had central locking and alarm/immobiliser fitted. I was hoping being a motorsport variant it might have a limited amount of technical gadgets. Frank

Once again my faithful friend has broken down. 3rd Alarm module since I have had here. Key fobs ( both) wont open the door. The alarm and CL work fine when locking /unlocking with the key. Durametric pulled Porsche fault code 54 "Radio Receiver not working" So my question is does the GT3 have the same level of Alarm and Central Locking, seeing that its a motor sport variant. I have in a spat of temper just got a sale quote from my OPC. However I really dont want to sell her but I really dont want any more trouble. Its getting to the stage my chest gets tight worrying whether its going to konk out " AGAIN " . Note no LOL as I'm not a happy bunny. Any GT3 owners care to help out with some info. Frank :(

:thumbup: Frank

This is exactly what is on the light side: Durametric Software inc For use on: PORSHE durametric.com * ( Led) It is spposed to be the new version. Frank

sorry for an obvious question but you are using version 2 of the cable? if yes you may find a lot more help from Durametric people if your functionality doesnt match the matrix on their website Uhm, I bought it May/June 2010 from http://www.hickleys.com/diagnostics/durametric.php so it is supposed to be althought it was a doubt of mine. I'm not 100% sure??. I have spoken to them and didn't come away with a finite answer. It has the box at the end and of the cable and has the light /led in the side of the connector box. Written on the same side is: Durametric Software inc For use on: PORSHE durametric.com * ( Led) and on the other side of the connector box: Professional Version. Both writtten exactly the way I have written them. Frank.

Update... I have done some more testing. I can ,after a few attempts, access Tiptronic module. For fault codes and module info. I can enter most other modules and do some drive links, so long as the engine is not running. But all the drive links for the Motronic will not work no matter how I try. I keep getting an exception report has ben raise and the programe is "not responding". Most of the modules accessed will allow fault code reading and reset and also module ID and info. I haven't tried coding because, well ,I haven't anything to code. I could open A/C flaps run fans etc. I could not do any drive links on the alarm system . ie activate the alarm form the activation inputs etc. but could find module id, fault codes etc. So... It would appear that there are lots of problems with it, but some things do work. Unfortunately you have to know what will work that version 5 does not have. Anybody else done some testing. Frank

Hi Paul, Yes , it even happens here in Loch Lomond Scotland. I wish more often. LOL Frank.

That's me , downloaded the newest version and it is still just as temperamental. Will read and reset codes but live data will make Durametric "not Responding" if you have more then 2 open. Drive links are all but useless, eg Run fans any stage you get "clunk" fan tries to run but wont run. Its the same for almost all the drive links. Tip box module just wont connect. The old version 5 works fine.... so I can safely say there is no point running the version 6 on my 996tt. Any body else using the latest 6.0.2.0 version on a 996tt. Perhaps Durametric have concentrated on the 997 and not too bothered about the 996???? Frank Frank

Hi Martin If you have checked all the bushes and arms you must start looking at the shock absorbers. If you push down hard on the front corners does the car move down up then stop or does it tend to bounce a little. Don't forget you have strong springs so you wont be able to push it down much. If the car moves up and down more than once with one good shove down then I would suspect a shocker. Take it to a good Indy who will do a test. Defective shocks can be very dangerous not only for bumps and corners but for braking as well. A worn shocker can cause the wheel to bounce up and down when applying the brakes. Please post you findings for us all. Frank

Cheers JPFLIP, I'm going to have a look for mine later. Frank

Hi, That's a little vague to understand. I say this because the fan starts when the engine is running but it wont always stay running when you switch off the car. Mine will if its very hot outside, but we are in Scotland and that ain't all that often. How long have you had the Car and how long have you noticed the Fan working when parking? What was your driving style just before parking up and how warm was the weather? The Fan has a temp switch/sensor on the right hand side of the engine comp'. I will have to find mine for future ref'. but if the fan works whilst driving, fundamentally there isn't too much wrong. Is it running when your engine is running? check the Fan temp switch/sensor. Perhaps your engine comp't wasn't warm enough for the fan to switch on, especially if you have had a cooler spell or been driving it slower?? Frank

My 996tt lost the mirror dip on reverse as well but also the parking sensor and rear revers light did not work. Turned out to be the Gear selector linkage switch pack had gone defective. Do you still have the parking sensors and revers lights? Frank.

Although its called a dry sump, its not empty of oil. When you do an oil change you will get a good amount from the sump as well. The majority of the oil is in a separate tank but there is still oil in the sump. The staining on the coolant pipe, is it coolant covered in muck,dust. Antifreeze is sticky and muck will stick to it like the proverbial Blanket. Look on top of the pipe is there evidence of oil leaking above it. can you take a picture above the coolant pipe. The x member I still maintain doesn't look that bad... Try and get some more pictures deeper in around the engine area. I wouldn't mention these things unless I think they are relevant.all the other defects are just thinks that any car might need in the course of its life. Just make sure in your mind about the 2 oil issues( note I dont say problems at this time) Frank.

Hi, As you know been following you post on other forum. Got to agree the color is actually very nice. You should have posted a picture with your first post on 6speed. Might have made a few envious. I dont think form the photos of the oil leak problem area's that there is in fact a problem there. Yours will be the first RMS that I have read about!! Did you manage to do some of the things we mentioned: Check a sample of oil, is it milky. Get the coolant checked for combustibles. It is possible to add a chemical to a sample that will tell you if exhaust gasses have been getting into the coolant. Does it use water. Smell in the expansion tank, does it smell of exhaust/fresh fuel. Smell the " white Smoke" Does it have a sweet antifreeze smell. If the engine is burning lots of oil it will produce smoke that has a bluish haze. Unburnt oil from a turbo will be whitish/ dark haze but will smell like fresh engine oil, a bit like the smell of the oil in the container. Its not going to be cheep to do all the other semi-minor problems. Suspension as mentioned... you'll prob change anyway, but its not cheep. Might be a good idea to get a definitive list of defects, go down to your local Porsche dealer and price up everything required. If you can do the work yourself there's a good saving to be had. Way up the total cost, allow some over budget as there will always be something you haven counted on. Add that amount to the cost of the Car.If there is a big difference between that and used car form a dealer with a Warranty then your onto a winner. If not it might me an idea to do a little soul; searching and have a good think on the idea. Frank

Hi John, Thanks for updating us all. Good result and one to bear in mind if it happens to anybody else. Frank :clapping:

Has anybody had problems with the drive links function on Durametric 6 on a 996tt? I can get them to work no problems on version 5 but on 6 it causes a " Not Responding " error or it just doesn't do anything. The clear code functions and live readings work ok. It would be great to hear from anybody else who has used version 6. Thanks in advance. Frank

Hi all. Final update. It was the alternator. Voltage rectifier duff. Porsche replace alternator under Warranty Wise. Cost £1170.00. Thanks to all that have replied. :thankyou:

Hi Joh, That's not so good then. :( I still think it will be the alarm module. Your Porsche Garage will know. I didn't have to pay anything as I had an extended warranty so I dont know how much it will cost. Let us all know what Porsche say. Frank.