b-man

Loren, was it on a 2002 model year Carrera?

I'll answer my own question. I don't think it could have been because I have what I believe to be the highest mileage 2002 911 in the world. It's got 65k miles on it and I don't think anyone is even close. Since these are scheduled for plugs at 60k miles, I don't think anyone has changed plugs in the 2002-2004 generation cars until now . . .

Also, When I removed the heat sheilds, I couldn't remove them completely. I just took them off and let them lay down (I think it was on the header pipes). Is this normal or can you remove them completely? I felt that if I could completely remove the sheilds, it would have helped.

Hmm... only two bolts then they slide out the side. I usually take them all the way out since you need to get your arm back in there to the back plugs.

Loren, was it on a 2002 model year Carrera? Maybe mine is a little different than the ones you've worked on? I took off the two bolts but definitely could not get the heat shield out of the way. Do you remember which end you took it out from?

I started to bend it to help me get it out, but then had second thoughts and just admitted defeat.

b-man

2002 C2 Coupe

This is Jeff's pic. To get the back plugs you need the short swivel head socket wrench shown just to the left of the jack.

So with this wrench, I won't need to remove any of the exhaust system?

Also, when I removed the heat sheilds, I couldn't remove them completely. I just took them off and let them lay down (I think they would lay on the header pipes). Is this normal or can you remove the sheilds completely? I felt that if I could completely remove the sheilds, it would have helped.

I need to get one of those helpers in my tool box.

b-man

I tried to change my spark plugs this weekend. But, I could only change 4 out the the 6. I could not get to the rear plug on each side. I thought I heard it was possible to get to all 6 without taking apart the exhaust system but, that doesn't seem possible. I didn't want to take apart the exhaust system because I'd have another set of issues to deal with (some of the bolts are rusted and may break, I'd have to get everything lined up again, I may have to replace gaskets, I may have exhaust, leaks, etc.).

I was pretty confident before I started because I am a pretty experienced DIYer and have a pretty good collection of tools (including many extensions and joints). But I have no idea how to get to those two rear plugs without taking apart something else like the headers, mufflers, brackets or ???

For those who have not tried changing their plugs, I recommend taking it to the dealer. It looks like that's what I'll have to do for the last two plugs unless someone can give me some magic tip to help. :rolleyes:

b-man

2002 C2 Coupe

I have a 2000 C4 with stock leather shifter.  I pulled up the boot portion and was prepared to used my allen wrench to loosen the shift knob when I came upon a surprise.  There's no screw!  The shifter handle comes down to the leather boot and that it, there's nothing else holding the shift knob on. I tried pulling up on the handle and it moved just a bit.  How do I remove the shift knob from the lever?  Pull up?  Please let me know, I've got this Carbon Fiber Aluminum shift knob that's just dying to be installed.  Thanks in advance.

Pat

Mine didn't have a screw either. I just pulled it straight up and off. It wasn't too difficult. But, don't look directly down at it when you pull. You might knock out your teeth. :)

b-man

2002 C2 Coupe

My personal experiences and what I've I've heard about one wheel repair shop is that they are unbelieveably good. The shop is called Ye Old Wheel Shop (I'm not sure about the spelling) and they are located in Maryland. They used to regularly advertise in the back of Autoweek (they may still do so) and they do work for people all over the country.

b-man

I got mine a while ago from this place: http://www.2fam.com

I think the guy I spoke to was Bobby. I know others have ordered from them and I've never heard about any problems. I paid about US$200-225.

I don't know if they'll ship to Australia but, it's worth a phone call/email to them to find out.

b-man

another question, how does Porsche warrenty policy say about flat-tire?

cheers,

Tony

I know that here in the United States, the Porsche warranty does not cover flat tires in any way.

b-man

I just did an internet search for a picture and came up with this article which can do a better job of explaining them than me. If you go to the local auto parts store, you will see the tire plug kits for sale. The brand in the picture is higher quality (and more expensinve) than what you will see in most stores. I would say that it's professional quality. The cheap ones and the expensive ones work equally well. But, I think the tools you get with the expensive ones will last longer.

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/safetyseal

Here is another similar product. I have never tried these before but, it's is supposed to be very good or even better than traditional tire plugs.

http://www.dynaplug.com/product_info.html

b-man

I have never used tire sealants. However, (I will probably get flamed for this but . . . ) I am a big believer and user of tire plugs. They are surprisingly effective.

b-man

I don't know if they have these stores in your area but, 2 national stores where I have found it are Autozone and Wal-Mart. I always look for it wherever I go and notice that it's being stocked at more and more places.

Also, you can always stop by your local Mobil gas station and see if they have it. If not, they will probably be able to order it for you. But, it will probably not be cheap.

I'd also suggest getting 1) some washers for the oil drain plug (you only need one per oil change but, you might as well stock up) and, 2) a properly sized oil filter wrench.

b-man

I can't believe that I'm the only one that has done this?

b-man

Hank, what you may want to consider doing as a gesture of appreciation is to make a donation to this website by clicking on the Paypal link at the bottom of this webpage. I agree with you, the information that is avaiable here is amazing.

b-man

I have no idea if this applies to 996's but, I know you're desperate so I'll try to help. On many cars with these symptons, one of the wires that goes to the starter occasionally has a bad electrical connection/contact. Usually, you look for the starter (in the engine compartment), and wiggle the wire(s) that is connected to it. This will help the electrical connection/contact. You can also remove the wire (it should be very easy) and examine the contact and maybe use some sandpaper on the male end to help it make a better contact when it's reconnected if it's dirty or corroded.

b-man

SPR, I haven't done this mod yet so, take this with a grain of salt but, I've heard that the cables should be adjusted when the engine/transmission is hot to get the best results.

b-man

Just FYI for anyone doing this, the tension pulley in my car (2002 c2 coupe) takes a 24mm tool instead of a 27mm tool. I used a 15/16" combination wrench (which works out to 23.8mm) and it worked fine.

b-man

Just FYI, I checked yesterday and the cheesehead bolts (caliper bolts) take a 10mm hex tool, not 12mm. I'm just bring this up so someone doesn't order the wrong tool (like I did!).

b-man

I changed the brake pads on my 2002 c2 coupe yesterday. But, I just realized that I didn't take the brown paper off of any of the vibration dampers to expose the adhesive (so they would stick to the back of the brake pads). :o I'm not sure why I didn't think of it earlier. I already drove it and have gotten the brakes pretty hot. I don't care about brake squeal and almost didn't install the vibration dampers at all.

But, is leaving the paper on there going to be a problem? Should I take the pads and dampers out and remove the paper, or is it too late? Has anyone else done this with no ill effects?

b-man

The synchromesh cannot be repaired, but it can be replaced. I'm sure the part is not expensive at all. Unfortunately, to get to it, the transmission must be removed and completely taken apart. Yes, I mean completely taken apart so, that would be very, very expensive.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about fixing the problem. It's hard to believe but, it's really not a big deal and what seems like more wear (the crunching or grinding) really isn't. The only time that it is more wear is if you are very slow to engage the gear and sort of hold it half in and half out while it is grinding. You may also notice that the problem is more noticeable if the car isn't warmed up, or vice versa.

FYI, most real race cars (as opposed to street cars put on the race track) have non-synchromesh transmissions. They grind or crunch every time a gear is engaged.

When transmissions start popping out of gear is when you need to worry.

b-man

All of the jackstands I've seen are pretty tall (by my standards), even at their lowest setting. Does anyone know where I could get "low" ones? Thanks.

b-man

KarlS, do you change the caliper bolts when you are doing a standard pad change? I know Loren says they don't need to be changed and that he normally doesn't. But, I'm just trying to get more information and am curious what others are doing, or if it's a good idea to do it even though they don't need to be changed?

Also, how can you tell if the caliper bolts are "worn" (as Loren said)?

b-man

Thanks Loren. I have those sensors on order too.

One additional item I ordered was the caliper bolts. I think the vendor called them "cheesehead bolts" and said that they are normally changed. I didn't see them in you DIY section but, I ordered them anyway. I thought it would be better to have them and not need them, then the other way around.

Do you normally change them? What torque setting do use use, and do they require a special tool? Do you use any antiseize compound? I haven't even looked at my brakes up close so, I don't know anything about the setup. But, I figure it can't be too difficult.

b-man

That's great. Thanks for the information Loren. My brake pad warning light came on but, I am taking a long trip before I can change them. I'm really nursing the brakes but, just in case I end up scoring the rotors, I want to know what the worse case scenario is.

b-man

I'm curious, how hard is it to change the brake rotors on a '02 c2 coupe? On some cars it is *very* easy and on others, it's difficult. I know that it's not part of the routine brake pad change but, has anyone done this?

b-man

I had the same problem and I used this spray lubricant that dries to become a grease. It's great because it penetrates when you spray it (like a liquid) but, it lasts like a grease. I don't think a regular spray lubricant would work well because it is exposed to the rain and the elements. I can't remember exactly where I lubed the mechanism but, I haven't had any problems since then.

Here's the product:

http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=11302

I have no relationship to the vendor or manufacturer. I'm passing on information that I hope is helpful.

b-man