b-man

I have a 2016 Cayenne Diesel. My understanding is that Aisin made the transmissions for the 2016 Cayenne Diesel. My understanding is that the transmissions for all other 2016 Cayenne models were made by ZF. I hope this information is helpful. b-man

Can someone tell me what the maximum turbo boost (psi or bar) is in a stock Cayenne Diesel (which uses the VW 3.0 TDI engine)? I am interested in the spec for a 2015 or 2016 model year vehicle (which have the same engine). I've looked around, but cannot find this information. I don't know why it is so hard to find, or maybe I am just not good at searching. Also, is there some type of easy to use device that will let me see the boost level in real time with these vehicles? I thought I heard about something you can attach to the vehicle's computer which lets you make a connection via Bluetooth, and use it with an app for a phone. Thank you in advance for your reply. b-man

I heard that information was never published by Porsche. b-man

Thank you very much for the pictures and updates. I am looking forward to your future posts. b-man

I got everything working fine now. I will answer my own question with the hope that this may help someone in the future with similar problems. I found the following related thread to be helpful: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/10388-no-sound-from-speakers-does-the-stock-amp-have-a-fuse-somewhere/ I checked my fuses at position D8 and D9. They were both 15 amp fuses on my car. The D9 fuse was blown. So I changed it and everything works now. b-man

OK, so I got the radio removal tools. They worked perfectly and the radio came out easily. The 10 amp fuse in the back was blown. So I changed the fuse, entered the security code, and everything seemed to work perfectly except for one thing . . . there is no sound. All of the radio controls work perfectly when you look at the display and ignore the fact that there is no sound. The preset buttons still have the same radio stations, all of the electronic adjustments work (volume, fader, balance, bass/treble), on/off works with no issues, etc. I removed some of the wire clusters in the back of the radio and reattached them. I thought one of those might be loose or have a bad connection. But doing that didn't make any difference (that I could tell). Can anyone offer any advice or suggestions on how to get sound? Is there a separate fuse for the speakers? Thanks in advance. b-man

Where else but Amazon... http://www.renntech.org/forums/spoffers/amazon/ Thanks. I just ordered a set. The shipping ($10-$11) was more than the product cost!?!? b-man

OK, I'm having a similar problem and found this message thread. Hopefully someone can help me. Where can I get the radio removal tool? My radio is a stock CR-220 that came with my 2002 911. I had a dead battery recently. I had some issues trying to get my car started. I eventually got everything fixed, and now my radio doesn't work. It doesn't even turn on. I think it may be a fuse behind the radio. So I'd like to remove the radio and check it. I also had my owners manual (and radio instruction manual) stolen. But I'll deal with that later. I do have my radio security code. Thank you for any assistance you can provide. b-man

I have the Fabspeed X-pipe cats on my car (and 02 C2). Like you, my factory cats went bad and I thought the price Porsche wanted for new ones was ridiculous. I *was* skeptical of the horsepower claims too. But after putting them on, I can believe 25 hp. But my opinion is just going by the seat of my pants. Also, because my old cats were bad, there may have been some exhaust flow restrictions in them (e.g., the internal honeycomb shifting around and restricting flow). So the comparison is not scientific at all (i.e, new factory versus new Fabspeed). But again, there is a very noticeable difference in power. The product is very high quality. I have had them for a while, and run my car all year (in all types of weather). But I don't track it, I do run it fairly hard on the street. I have had no issues with the new cats. I have had no fault codes. There is a slight difference in sound. The Fabpeeds sound better. But most people would not notice. I notice the difference mostly at very low rpms. The bottom line is I am very happy with the purchase and would buy them again in a heartbeat. Let me know if you have any questions. b-man

33 (a new 911) Now I look back and think I was pretty young at the time! b-man

Also, if you don't drive it very far or very long, the oil doesn't heat up fully. So when you turn off the engine, the oil takes longer to drain down into the oil pan (because it's thicker). b-man

I'm sorry to hear that Rustman. IPD should know better when they designed/made the throttle body . . . b-man

How do the Hawk PC and EBC Red Stuff compare to the OEM pads regarding performance (cold, hot, street. track, etc.)? I've been very happy with the OEM pads, but would also like to have less dust. Thanks. b-man

See the following thread. You may need to be registered to see the helpful diagram in the second message post: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...-need-help.html I've removed mine. If I remember correctly, one piece of information in that post is incorrect. You don't use a torx driver/bit. It's an 8mm triple square as mentioned in the first post here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-...ed-to-know.html b-man

Excellent. Thanks. Tagged for future reference. b-man

2002 C2 with 130k miles I broke a water pump at about 94k miles. Now, I also need a new engine. I'd say these engines are good for about 100k miles. b-man

Interesting thought Viper and b-man, thanks for the offers.. Are you suggesting getting a number of people contributing to the RAC Report or the metallurgy test (or both). The ultimate level of information to ensure maximum results would be expensive to acquire if I don't get a result from Porsche with just the RAC report i.e.: - 1. RAC report £140 2. Dismantling engine again to get crank cradle out for metallurgy test £500? (if Porsche won't do it FOC) 3. Metallurgy test £500-£600 plus would there be any copyright isuues or restriction of re-print etc? It's a pity I didn't think of this route whilst the old engine was in pieces but it does take a certain set of circumstances I guess to take you to this level of action anyway. Still if I've got enough persuasive powers to get customers to place $Million orders with me, this will be a true test of skill to get a result with the info I'll have to hand once I've got the RAC report. Does anyone think it would useful to start a separate associated topic to get the broadest response from Renntech members, if the contribution route would get enough funds together depending on the level we would need to go to? Rgds John John, I would make a donation to you to offset some of the costs you incur with this entire project, not a specific part of it. I would just need some reassurance that this is legitimate (please don't take that personally), that it's relatively easy to make the payment (paypal?), that the money gets to you, and that you would fight this hard with Porsche. In a sense, you would represent all of us in this "reverse class action" law suit. :) If you were going to collect funds, I think the proper thing to do would be to check with the moderators here to make sure it's OK. I don't think Porsche builds good water cooled engines. A lot of people like us are getting screwed. So, it's going to take special circumstances like this to fight back and make a statement. Regarding copyright issues, I believe as long as you don't sell or profit from the disclosure of a document, there is no copyright infringement. By the way, my last car was a VW Golf with 230,000 miles on it. It ran great (better than my 2002 911 when it had half that many miles on it) until I sold it. I ran that car MUCH harder than I run my Porsche . . . b-man

I'd kick in some money too . . . it's a way to stick it to Porsche. b-man

I found out that I'm also having problems with a solenoid that controls the variocam (valve timing). It's not working on one side of the engine so it's throwing off some things. I understand the solenoid is dificult to get to and therefore, very expensive to replace. b-man

I've got a 2002 C2 with 125,000 miles. I'm having serious engine problems and I was told that even though I could get it fixed, I'd probably be better off selling the car or getting a new engine . . . My last car was a VW Golf with 230,000 miles on it. It ran great . . . b-man

If it makes you feel better, I have a 2002 C2 coupe with 125k miles on it and I just found out that I'm going to need a new engine in the near future. It's nothing I did. It's just worn out . . . It's leaking oil past the exhaust valve stem seals and a lot is getting into the combustion chambers. It's causing the computer to cancel fuel to injector on that cylinder(s) because it's sensing crappy combustion byproducts. The check engine light keeps coming on because of it too. Also, about half the coil packs needed replacing too. I drive my car in the rain, snow (with salted roads) and the coil packs couldn't handle that. People are always asking how long will these 996's last and I guess it's around 118k-125k miles! b-man

I'm thinking about getting new shocks and struts for my 02' C2 Coupe that has the standard (non-sport) suspension. This is for street use only and I just want something firmer than what I have now (which is what came with the car new). I'm not looking for a fancy setup like the PSS-9 coil overs, just something that will be an easy replacement with no modifications. What do you guys recommend and where do you recommend I purchase them? Are the Bilstein Sports good? I'd like to stick with my stock sway bars and springs just because I'm cheap. But, I might be able to be convinced otherwise. If anyone knows of a great deal on a ROW 030 kit (I'm in the U.S.), please let me know . . . Also, how much does labor usually cost for a strut/shock replacement on all 4 corners? Thanks. b-man

I have a 2002 C2. I changed my plugs around 65,000 miles and, judging by the way they looked, they definitely needed to be changed earlier. I think every 30,000 miles would be about right. b-man

Congratulations ViolaGT3. Maybe it was a 15/16's that I used . . . I have no clue about how to drain the coolant. b-man

I've done it. It's easy. I don't remember there being any special precautions at all. It just takes some time to get the air filter housing and related stuff out of the way. Also, I think I used a 1" combination wrench (which works out to 25.4 mm), instead of a 24 mm wrench/socket like the DIY says. I can't remember if the 24 mm didn't fit or what. The 1" combination wrench was big enough to give me good leverage against the main pulley tension. b-man