b-man

That's a big help. Thanks again Loren.

b-man

"1. Find the A/C condensation drain tube under the car and pass a stiff wire through it to make sure it is not plugged. Also, have a look at the drain just the left of the battery (in the front trunk) and make sure it is not blocked either."

Can you give me a hint of where the drain tube would be once I get under the car? I assume it is a small, thin flexible plastic hose?

When you say "left of the battery", you mean the *driver's* left, not my left as I stand there in front of the car when looking at the battery, correct?

Thanks.

b-man

Dr. T, I have actually changed the pollen filter several times.

b-man

I have a 2002 c2 coupe (that I have owned since new for the last few years). I have recently noticed a musty smell from the ventilation and air conditioning system. My guess is that there is some type of moisture or condensation accumulating somewhere in the system because it's not draining properly. Of course, I could be completely wrong. But, what are the most common problem areas and easiest areas to check to see if there is blockage?

I am assuming the pollen filter is fine.

Thank you for your responses.

b-man

Pat, see the link on this page above our posts which says "Carrera/GT3 Maintenance Checklists". That gives a lot of information.

I cannot confirm what is done as part of the certification process.

I now change my oil (and oil filter) every 10k miles, although Porsche recommends 15k miles. Also, I change my engine air filter and pollen air filter whenever they get dirty. It's pretty easy. There are do it yourself (DIY) links on the top of this page which show you how.

Porsche can definitely claim that lack of proper service/maintenance voids the warranty.

b-man

"I'm curious why this thread shows so many "views" yet so few people take the time to even offer a one-sentence response to my post."

Don't take it personally. This forum is more of a technical place where people come to discuss more specific issues like sizes of bolts, how to fix something, etc.

b-man

It's a tough call. I see both sides of the story. But, to me these are the key points:

"In good faith, I explained everything to the service writer, who cringed at the concept of a customer performing any of his own maintenance. The technician diagnosed the problem as a distorted slave cylinder seat due to overtightening and denied warrany eligibilty for the repairs."

"I took considerable effort to troubleshoot and correct this problem on my own, and in good faith, admitted to such when I dropped the car off. I feel I shouldn't be penalized for my mechanical aptitude or preference to perform my own routine maintenance."

You were honest and up front with them, even though you could have lied about the whole thing. I think PCNA and the dealer should treat you just as well as you treat them. They should at the very least just give you the benefit of the doubt. I definitely think you should not have to pay a single penny. I think think PCNA should absorb it. I'd also never go to that dealer again.

b-man

I am considering changing the fuel filter(s) on my 2002 c2 coupe. First of all, how many filters are there and how difficult is it to change it/them? Can someone provide instructions or advice. Are any special tools required?

I could have sworn that a fuel filter(s) change was recommended at 60k miles. But, now I can't find that information. When is it recommended to change?

Thanks.

b-man

It is inspected at 30,000 miles and replaced at 60,000 miles.  Doubt it is time on a 2002.

This is how we do it on a Boxster.

Tool Pants, thanks for the picture. It may be hard for you to believe but, I am getting close to that point on my 2002. I believe I have the highest mileage 2002 911 in the world. Just over 52,000 miles and still running strong so, I should be at 60,00 pretty soon. :)

Loren and ninerguru, thank you both for your help.

This Board is a tremendous source for information.

b-man

How to you change the Polyrib belt on a 2002 996? Are there any tips, tricks or problem areas that I should watch out for? Is it as simple as just taking the old one off and putting the new one on? Are there any special tools that are needed or that would be helpful?

Thank you in advance for your replies.

b-man

Wow, thanks for the reply Loren!

b-man

Can the 4 small flaps (about 4" x 3/8") on the roof that are for attachment of the luggage rack be removed? If so, how? I know they fold open but, that is not enough because I want to try to remove some wax that is in the cracks. I assume they can somehow be pulled or twisted out?

b-man

. . . but you think that it has a reasonable advantage over the non-Plus wrenches? 

Jeff

In my opinion, the "Plus" wrenches are definitely much better. Also, you can take some comfort in knowing that they have been out long enough that they can be considered tried and true, not some gimmick.

b-man

Honestly, I would suggest everything in the 10mm to 19mm range (including 10 and 19) even though I don't think you will use the 11 or 16. Also, you may need something below that range (maybe 9mm??) for the brake bleed screws on the calipers if you bleed your own brakes.

In my very limited experience with the 996 TT, I think they have a few odd sized fasteners that you will rarely see. I think they were 15mm and 18mm or something like that, and I think they may have been on the oil drain plugs?? I think the most common fasteners are 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, and 19.

Many years ago, when I was just getting out of college, I bought the Snap-On Flank Drive Plus combination wrench set in 10mm-19mm. I think it was part number SOEXM710. I was dirt poor and they were horribly expensive, so it was very difficult to purchase and justify. What made the decision even more difficult was that they had these new funny looking "teeth" on the open end that I had never seen before. I was also not a professional mechanic. It was possibly the best purchase I ever made in my life. I kid you not.

b-man

mffarrell, I think your dealer has been reasonable.

If it makes you feel better, I am in a similar situation. I am a hardcore car guy, very anal, planned on keeping my 911 forever, etc. But, I've had LOTS of "bad luck" with my car. I'm not even going to begin to go into details of my story because it would be at least two or three times as long as your story (and two or three times as bad) and, you probably wouldn't believe me. People I know kid me about all the bad luck I've had with it. Sometimes, I just feel like giving up . . . I'm not sure how but, I feel like doing it! But, when I take a step back and think about things, I honestly still feel grateful that I have this car.

I would just chalk your experiences up as bad luck and make the best of it. Bad things happen to people every minute of every day. I mean truly bad things: cancer, rape, miscarriages, people you know getting killed, getting laid off from your job with no immediate job prospects and many kids to feed, etc.

Cosmetic problems with a car is not that big of a deal.

If you still feel bad, tell me where you live. I'll come by and key the $hit out of your car. Then, you'll realize you didn't have really big problems before! :D

b-man

'02 coupe

Second, the car is experiencing a strange problem on startup BUT ONLY after sitting in a downtown garage all day. It hestitates and stalls after starting it up (and before it warms up). Once warm, I don't have the problem any longer. Also, this never happens when I start it up in the morning from my garage. I am thinking since temperature doesn't appear to be the primary factor it could be humidity. IF that's true, could the coil packs be the problem?

The car is being dropped off on Friday and I was hoping for a few suggestions before then.

BTW, this is a 2003 C4S coupe (if that matters). TIA

russbert, I have almost that exact same problem: downtown parking garage stalling, right after starting, only after being parked all day etc.

The only difference from your situation is that I park outside when I am at home. But, I also have no stalling problems at home. Oh, and my car is a 2002 C2 coupe.

I didn't reply sooner because my car was at the dealer and I just got it back. Before they looked at it, they also thought the problem may be humidity related. But, they ended up replacing a bad mass airflow sensor. They said that it wasn't reading the correct temperature (i.e., the intake air temperature was not correct).

But, the stalling problem only happens occasionally for me, so I am not sure that the mass airflow sensor was the problem.

Did yours get fixed? If so, what was the problem.

b-man

Here is a link to an old thread on another forum. I think you will find the information useful. I posted the second messsage in the thread.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthr...s=&threadid=357

b-man

What are the differences between the '02, '03 and '04 996's? I'm sure there were at least some minor improvements during this period, and I'm interested in knowing what these are.

Is there anyway to tell one year's car from the next?

b-man

Flagman, my problem has been with the female end spinning while turning the male end. So it can be very difficult to loosen this fastener (in stock configuration). Does your product solve that problem?

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to solve or alleviate that problem?

b-man

I recently looked around and I ended up getting mine from Bobby at Foreign Affairs in Florida. I think they are going for $199 plus $16 for shipping. I think this is a special price so, you may want to mention that you saw this price on the internet. Here is their site with contact info.

http://www.2fam.com

I do not have any business or personal interest in them.

b-man

Thanks for the pics. What is the size of the hex head and the size of the cross section (thickness of the round shaft part) in mm?

b-man

Scott, if you get a chance, take a very closeup picture of the bolt (the "inside" of both ends) where it cracked so I can see the "grain" of the metal. I am curious what the failure looks like. Also, what size hex head and cross section (thickness of the round shaft part) is it?

I wouldn't worry about it. Worse things could happen. You may not have done anything wrong. It may have been a defective part, although I doubt it.

Also, it's quite possible that the alignment was returned back to the previous setting when you returned it back to the markings. It depends on how careful you were. There is no magic to these things.

b-man

What are the differences between the 2001 and 2002 911TT's? I am even interested in the minor changes.

I know with the non-turbos, from 2001 to 2002 Porsche increased the displacement (3.4 to 3.6L), and made minor changes to the bumpers, headlights, etc. I wonder if the TT's had any changes. I have a friend who is looking at used 911TT's and he is coming to me for information.

What was the factory warranty on the 2001's and 2002's in the United States? Were they the same 4 year/48,000 miles warranty or was it a 2 year/24,000 miles warranty in 2001?

Also, if someone could provide me with some background history (such as what year they were first made and what changes happened when) on the watercooled 911 TT's, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

b-man

2002 C2 coupe

From my very unscientific testing, I've noticed that Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish is a little better but, noticeably better than Flitz paste (in a tube).

b-man

Thanks Loren and SPR. This Board is an incredible source of information.

b-man