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Modded996

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  • Content Count

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About Modded996

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Cars, Kayaking, Hiking, Movies, Economics, etc.

Profile Fields

  • From
    Atlanta
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche 996 (c/o RPMNorth)
    2002 Saab 9-5 Aero
  • Future cars
    1985 Mercedes SL-class convertible
  • Former cars
    1994 Alfa Romeo 164Q
  1. I've only finished the project a couple of nights ago but it does sound better than I expected even with the M680 being driven with the speaker level outs. To my ears it is better than the Becker unit, though by default it has an aggressive EQ setting that isn't necessary. Anyone that has an 02 with Bose will probably be pretty happy with this Pioneer 9500bhs unit: it looks pretty slick with its conservative design and you can match both the keys and the screen to the amber color scheme if you want.
  2. Thanks, this did the trick. I can hear the amp is on from a tiny amount of white noise from the speakers. However, it appears that my setup does not permit the use of RCA cables! The diagrams I found online indicated that the C1 connector was used in this setup but I decided to test this with the old Becker unit. When the B connector is detached, there is no sound. When B is attached, everything works properly. What a stupid design!! I can't imagine *any* sort of hi-fi coming from speaker-level outputs from a mediocre head unit amplifier. Ugghh. Unfortunately I have deleted the other 8 wires I
  3. Opps! You are right--it looks like the CDR-220 does not use C6 but rather A5 (Power Antenna). I removed the connection to C6 and directed it to A5; however, there is still no audio. The Pioneer is rated at 12v 300ma for their antenna/amp signal output. I'll need to do some searching online. Maybe it needs more current?
  4. Yes, in my case I used the blue/white "system control" wire from the Pioneer and connected it to the "amp turn on" wire from the Metra harness (also blue/white). However, I'm still unsure if there is anything particular about the Bose setup. Again potentially needing the amplified output instead of RCA level outs.
  5. Hi, I just finished installing a Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS in my 2002 996. It has the Bose premium audio and (had) the CDR-220. I used a Metra 70-1787 harness, but I've noticed two problems. First, there is no sound. I only connected the low level audio from the RCA cables on the Pioneer; I didn't connect the line-level outputs as it didn't seem like I should need them. Perhaps the Bose amp isn't turning on? Or actually requires the line-level outputs to work? Also, the second problem indicates a potentially serious wiring issue so I've removed the Pioneer from the car for now. The second problem
  6. I used the 3M kit from the auto store with a drill. Worked just fine. The tricky part is keeping up with a UV sealant. At the moment, I'm trying ArmorAll but it hasn't been more than a couple of weeks since I redid my headlights and they were worse off.
  7. Still trying to figure out a clever way to get the front right water drain hose (996 564 207 00) seated back into the grommet (999 702 248 41). It seems like working with the air duct might be the easiest way to gain access but I haven't had time yet to try unscrewing the black ductwork behind the duct fascia. Any hints? I'm running out of ideas short of removing everything.
  8. Hi, I've had a chance to diagnose the water accumulating in my front passenger footwell during rain. I found the problem to be the connector has popped out; however that is just from feeling around (removing the foam and carpeting near the wires) without disassembling the glove box etc. What seems interesting is that the two tubes barely seem to touch--there is little room for error and its too tricky to do from beneath. Can anyone give any tips as far as the easiest way to get access to this space? I don't mind contorting a bit to work on it if it means avoiding a more invasive removal of da
  9. Recently my key fobs stopped opening my 996 without manually using the blade. I am tempted to say that I just need two new transpondor heads for the two fobs I have even though if I hold the door in the unlocked position and hold down the unlock button it will roll down both windows (so it is getting some sort of signal). However, the central locking is operating a bit weird to me. When I turn the car off, it has a tendancy to automatically unlock and relock the doors immediately. If I press the unlock button it will stay unlocked. If I lock the car with the key blade it will stay locked. No h
  10. Thanks for the feedback. The latch was professionally replaced but the timing is suspect.
  11. If this was the problem, could it be fixed or does it require the entire handle (996-537-963-03)?
  12. I had my driver's side door latch replaced recently but afterwards the lock is neither locking nor unlocking the door when inserting the key (versus pressing buttons on the key fob). I've been advised that I might need a new tumbler! Since the lock was working before servicing, I am not in an ideal situation. If there is something reasonably simple I might be able to take care of it myself but honestly I avoided doing this in the first place because it looked like a giant pain to take apart. Perhaps someone has some ideas what could be wrong? It just seems really strange to me that I cannot ev
  13. My 996 ('02 C2) is becoming allergic to hot and humid weather. When the temperature is moderate, I don't seem to encounter any problems. Anyhow, so what tends to happen is that the central lock will activate and occasionally deactivate when I'm driving. If I attempt to turn it off, there's an 80% chance it will unlock, then lock and then beep twice. The other 20% of the time it will just do what its told (but with another 80% chance that it'll relock at some point). When I open either car door afterwards it will double beep. Also, if I attempt to use the key fob to lock the doors at that point
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