Modded996

I've only finished the project a couple of nights ago but it does sound better than I expected even with the M680 being driven with the speaker level outs. To my ears it is better than the Becker unit, though by default it has an aggressive EQ setting that isn't necessary. Anyone that has an 02 with Bose will probably be pretty happy with this Pioneer 9500bhs unit: it looks pretty slick with its conservative design and you can match both the keys and the screen to the amber color scheme if you want.

Thanks, this did the trick. I can hear the amp is on from a tiny amount of white noise from the speakers. However, it appears that my setup does not permit the use of RCA cables! The diagrams I found online indicated that the C1 connector was used in this setup but I decided to test this with the old Becker unit. When the B connector is detached, there is no sound. When B is attached, everything works properly. What a stupid design!! I can't imagine *any* sort of hi-fi coming from speaker-level outputs from a mediocre head unit amplifier. Ugghh. Unfortunately I have deleted the other 8 wires I need to use. I'll sort this out somehow but its really disappointing about the RCA; I don't really want to bother with new amps though. Thanks everyone! Recap for visitors: * Have Bose premium audio; no obvious DSP unit with Becker CDR-220. * Upgraded to Pioneer head unit: needed to shave the plastic sides for where the cage sits. You can do this without removing anything with some sandpaper. If you do it this way, use masking tape to prevent accidental sanding of the coloring of your outer plastic trim. * Splice the amp/antenna blue/white wire from the new head unit to A5 and C6 * Do not bother with RCA cables (probably do not even need the fancier Metra 1787; downgrade and you are better off) and focus on wiring the B connector. Depending on your kit you may only get 4 wires for the B connector. Try to get one with all 8. * Fully disconnect battery before upgrading to prevent weird loss. Can leave connected after taping the alarm sensor. Though I tended to only connect/disconnect A connector when the key was not in the ignition. * Bluetooth mic placement is a hassle. Just pick somewhere and be happy with it.

Opps! You are right--it looks like the CDR-220 does not use C6 but rather A5 (Power Antenna). I removed the connection to C6 and directed it to A5; however, there is still no audio. The Pioneer is rated at 12v 300ma for their antenna/amp signal output. I'll need to do some searching online. Maybe it needs more current?

Yes, in my case I used the blue/white "system control" wire from the Pioneer and connected it to the "amp turn on" wire from the Metra harness (also blue/white). However, I'm still unsure if there is anything particular about the Bose setup. Again potentially needing the amplified output instead of RCA level outs.

Hi, I just finished installing a Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS in my 2002 996. It has the Bose premium audio and (had) the CDR-220. I used a Metra 70-1787 harness, but I've noticed two problems. First, there is no sound. I only connected the low level audio from the RCA cables on the Pioneer; I didn't connect the line-level outputs as it didn't seem like I should need them. Perhaps the Bose amp isn't turning on? Or actually requires the line-level outputs to work? Also, the second problem indicates a potentially serious wiring issue so I've removed the Pioneer from the car for now. The second problem is that when I reconnected the battery the car had a rough start and watching the volt meter on the dash, looked like it took a while to get to ~14v. That said, the Pioneer unit itself seemed to work fine. Perhaps the problem is related to the Bose amp not operating properly? Any ideas? Thanks, Rob

I used the 3M kit from the auto store with a drill. Worked just fine. The tricky part is keeping up with a UV sealant. At the moment, I'm trying ArmorAll but it hasn't been more than a couple of weeks since I redid my headlights and they were worse off.

Still trying to figure out a clever way to get the front right water drain hose (996 564 207 00) seated back into the grommet (999 702 248 41). It seems like working with the air duct might be the easiest way to gain access but I haven't had time yet to try unscrewing the black ductwork behind the duct fascia. Any hints? I'm running out of ideas short of removing everything.

Hi, I've had a chance to diagnose the water accumulating in my front passenger footwell during rain. I found the problem to be the connector has popped out; however that is just from feeling around (removing the foam and carpeting near the wires) without disassembling the glove box etc. What seems interesting is that the two tubes barely seem to touch--there is little room for error and its too tricky to do from beneath. Can anyone give any tips as far as the easiest way to get access to this space? I don't mind contorting a bit to work on it if it means avoiding a more invasive removal of dash parts. Also, will it work reliably considering that these two peices barely touch as it is? Thanks in advance, Rob

Recently my key fobs stopped opening my 996 without manually using the blade. I am tempted to say that I just need two new transpondor heads for the two fobs I have even though if I hold the door in the unlocked position and hold down the unlock button it will roll down both windows (so it is getting some sort of signal). However, the central locking is operating a bit weird to me. When I turn the car off, it has a tendancy to automatically unlock and relock the doors immediately. If I press the unlock button it will stay unlocked. If I lock the car with the key blade it will stay locked. No horn beeps or unusual behavior while driving--those symtoms previously led me to change the door latch mechanisms on both sides. But, sometimes I don't get 10 seconds to turn the car on before the alarm goes off--when this happens it happens immediately. The biggest problem, I've saved for last: the fuel door is not unlocked under any combination of events; I have to use the manual release. So, I've searched around and I'm primarily running into key fob head replacement recommendations and door microswitch articles (again those have already been replaced). I'm not sure either of these is what is going on. It almost seems like the alarm is getting a bad signal from some other component and its in a bad state. Advice? Thanks

Thanks for the feedback. The latch was professionally replaced but the timing is suspect.

If this was the problem, could it be fixed or does it require the entire handle (996-537-963-03)?

I had my driver's side door latch replaced recently but afterwards the lock is neither locking nor unlocking the door when inserting the key (versus pressing buttons on the key fob). I've been advised that I might need a new tumbler! Since the lock was working before servicing, I am not in an ideal situation. If there is something reasonably simple I might be able to take care of it myself but honestly I avoided doing this in the first place because it looked like a giant pain to take apart. Perhaps someone has some ideas what could be wrong? It just seems really strange to me that I cannot even unlock the door with the key despite the tumbler turning just fine indicating that the pins are aligned. My primary concern relates to the central locking going into hibernation after a few days and not being able to get back in, though I don't like things like the physical lock not working 100%. Thanks.

Thanks!

My 996 ('02 C2) is becoming allergic to hot and humid weather. When the temperature is moderate, I don't seem to encounter any problems. Anyhow, so what tends to happen is that the central lock will activate and occasionally deactivate when I'm driving. If I attempt to turn it off, there's an 80% chance it will unlock, then lock and then beep twice. The other 20% of the time it will just do what its told (but with another 80% chance that it'll relock at some point). When I open either car door afterwards it will double beep. Also, if I attempt to use the key fob to lock the doors at that point it will lock unlock and double beep. The security light is blinking properly and there aren't any fault lights illuminated. Also, the armrest is securely closed. Having searched around online, I haven't run across the same exact issue, but I'm sure I'm not the only person to have had it. Does anyone know what is going on or have any ideas I can test? I'm thinking that I'll have to take it in otherwise. Thanks!