996driver

996.362.142.03 rears. 295X30 -- offset on this wheel is 45 mm -- you need 63 mm to 65 mm on the rear.

996.362.136.04 fronts. 225x40 -- offset on this wheel is 50 mm -- you need 50 mm to 52 mm on the front -- so these are ok.

Loren, Can I use a 18"x 8.5" 40 offset on my 2001 C2 narrow body?

As a 40 year member there is no question about the value. Not just for normal 10 per cent dealer discounts, but for events ranging from insured driver ed to comp racing on tracks or in autocross and rallies , and free valuations on your car, ads (wanted or for sale) in Pano and online, a great website, model registries (I'm in 914, Boxster and Cayman registries), free tech advice from THEE premier experts in Porshedom online or in print, Porsche parking area at major events, access to drivers like Parick Long, etc etc etc.. And as Loren said Panorama is just about worth the cost of admission if only for the ads.

I just returned form a Toys for Tots event at a local dealer. Catered lunch, free Porsche hats, posters etc, and conversation with like minded Porsche Folk.

The motto is "It's not just the cars, it's the people." And that has been my experience in numerous regions over the last 40 year. Some regions better that others, BUT you can make a difference in any region IF you step up to the plate and manage events, write articles, and man corner worker slots , registrations tech inspections , etc.

Join. Trust me. Join. :soapbox:

Very very well said.

Yes it is worth it. We just rejoined for 3 years. We have met some wonderful friends. My wife and I both run autocross and HPDE events and they welcome us and our two sons (7 and 10) like no other group I have ever experienced. Suncoast Region PCA (Tampa) has been fantastic. The dealers support the club, the socials and fun-runs are a blast. Join and participate and you will never look back. Join and don't participate and you will mostly get a magazine out of it.

Scott

This is great news as an owner of a 2001 996. I have 68,000 miles on the car now, I run Autocross and HPDE events and my experience has been that the car and the engine have been bulletproof for me.

I am thinking about having the IMS upgraded at this time given the miles.

I would like to time this with a new clutch but I had that done only 10k ago, and yes I don't know why I let them talk me out of it at the time...I dont like pushing my luck and my reasoning is that the clutch is relatively inexpensive to replace early but an engine is another matter.

This article gives me some peace of mind.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Scott

It got up to 70 today in Hot Springs, Arkansas so it was a good time to get out the buffer and polish the 2000 Boxster S I bought last week. It turned out fairly decent except for the stone chips, etc on the front.

This is me down at the Honda dealer today. That's where I bought the car. The previous owners traded for a Chevy SSR. It's a coincidence that the Social Security Office is right across the street behind the car. But not a complete coincidenc because my first SS payment is supposed to come in early February. The extra income gave me enough courage to buy a 100k mile Porsche.

Congratulations!

Drive it in health

Scott

Hi - See TSB 7/04 on tyre sizes and wheels for a 996 Carerra under the DIY Menu. Gives you many options.

Loren,

Why couldn't I access the TSB's?

Thanks,

Scott

ADias, you certainly made some interesting comments.

My question to you is are these your Opinions are do you in fact know that what you have stated about mixing "N" rated and "Non-N" rated tires to be harmful to the vehicle. If what you have said is FACT then I would like to know the sources of your information so that I might review the information for myself. On the other hand, if what you have stated is merely YOUR OPINION that mixing two tire types may be harmful to my vehicle then I will certainly take your opinion and inferred advice into consideration.

I think it is important to clarify what is FACT versus OPINION.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion

That being said, I now have a couple of thousand miles on the Hankook Ventus tires. Perhaps they needed a "break-in" period because they are handling much better now. Although the car still tracks a little loose in that it drifts left and right unpredictably it does seem to have improved. Likewise the traction control system has not kicked in in quite awhile as I go around corners although the C4S does not feel as solid as it did with the Michelin Sports I previously had.

I still don't think I would recommend the Hankook tires on a C4S, but maybe a set of four instead of two as I have, might perform better. Bottom line, however, is if you can afford the "N" rated tires buy them instead of the Hankooks.

Style aside and with all respect, there is adequate evidence that one should not mix tires from front to rear. Without going through a "prove it" let me offer a "consider this" and see if it causes us to think about how a tire's traction works by illustrating a couple of points.

What if I put Hoosier R6 slicks (max adhesion) on the front of a 911 and flexible sidewall all season tires (minimum adhesion) on the rear. How would this effect the way the car rotates through a turn?

What if I then put the R6 slicks (max adhesion) on the rear and the flexible side wall all season tires (minimum adhesion) on the front of the 911. How would this effect the way the car rotates through a turn?

Considering the ~60/40 weight distribution and the pivot point of a 911 when answering. How does the sidewall flexibility effect the slip angle of each tire in these two situations.

What would happen in the wet and in the dry? What would happen to braking?

The N-Rating has to do with load ability and thus sidewall stiffness considering they are designed for a truly one of a kind application on a vehicle with up to a 63%/47% weight distribution. What other car has this characteristic?

After you develop an understanding of what a tire does, what it can do and what it cannot do you will appreciate why Porsche goes to the effort to actually co-develop tires. Think about the examples.

You will then understand a little bit of why it is advisable to have matching tires front and rear (especially on a 911).

I went through this because while I do not know about damaging the all-wheel drive system, I do know that Adidas is correct in his post. Mismatching tires front and rear can be dangerous. Most folks who don't know better will not mismatch "slicks and slops" but why not learn what to do and do it right. Then again, most folks are not driving 911's. Porsche driving is so much more than just owning a Marquee car. It is a lifelong pursuit to understand why THESE cars can do things no other car on the road can do and then learn to make them do it on a track. It is about understanding why these cars consistently win and win and win. Understanding why Porsche refines rather than reinvents.

Above all, P-car drivers look out for each other and help each other learn. No one here wants to see anyone get hurt or hurt someone else so make your tire choice based on your driving style and be safe.

Here is a link to a great book, if you have not already read it, which explains what I am illustrating. It is less than $11.00 on amazon. Give it a read.

http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Solo-Racing-Techniques-Autocrossing/dp/0962057312/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1290913198&sr=8-1

I am on my P-Car learning curve, have been for 6 years now and am having the time of my life with other P-Car fans in the PCA, Chin MS and online. I hope this helps instead of "proving it".

All the best,

Scott

BTW, did you figure out how the two examples will react?

I've got an 06 987 with the 2.7L motor/18" wheels and PASM. I do about 8 track days a year and after a 3 day session at VIR thought some mods might be in order to settle the cars rear end a bit (feels loose under hard cornering) and get rid of some of the body roll. current alignment is -1.0 front, -2.0 rear, no toe in front a bit of toe in rear.

I've been running tires like the Kumho XS and Nitto NT-05 and intend to move to the NT-01 when the 05's are done.

Suggestions I've gotten to improve handling from mechanics has been mainly add GT3 LCA's and rear toe links to start and then add TPC bar and drop link. I have no doubt this will improve thing but the complete package runs about $4k which is way out side of my budget.

I'm looking for something to improve handling a bit without ruining the ride; Has anyone tried the Mantis Sport Rear brace?

If this were a 986 model I could move to the ROW M030 suspension is is very inexpensive, but the new car doesn't seem to offer than option.

thanks for any help with this.

You did not state the mileage but you may be in need of new shocks. I would save for a PSS9 setup and a good alignment. An set of adjustable drop links with and adjustable rear sway bar might settle it down and make it rotate a little better. There are a lot of members who really know suspensions that can comment.

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/986SWAYBAR.html

Scott

Hi. on my 2000 C2 Tip? I see the muffler pipe bypass in the DIY section but that's proly really loud.

An experienced driver once advised me to put my $2,000 in to an instructo and seat time. You know what? He was right. My car is faster now.

:renntech:

hey phillipj you know my language. same origin? actually brother i agree that the brakes are already very capable, except that in our roads a lot of people are uneducated. running at good highway speeds and a stupid driver just goes into the lane. better brakes will simply give more confidence. happened a number of times at NLEX around 8pm where all the trucks are travelling the highwway to get to manila by 9-no more truck ban.. frustrating

I would be looking at pad upgrades instead of full out brake upgrade. The link below is to Pagid. look through their coefficients of friction and decide.

Scott

http://www.pagid-brake-pads.co.uk/products/

Lowering your car will also help with braking.

hey phillipj you know my language. same origin? actually brother i agree that the brakes are already very capable, except that in our roads a lot of people are uneducated. running at good highway speeds and a stupid driver just goes into the lane. better brakes will simply give more confidence. happened a number of times at NLEX around 8pm where all the trucks are travelling the highwway to get to manila by 9-no more truck ban.. frustrating

I would be looking at pad upgrades instead of full out brake upgrade. The link below is to Pagid. look through their coefficients of friction and decide.

Scott

http://www.pagid-brake-pads.co.uk/products/

Which particular model Hankook tires did you buy/recommend as replacements?

I have a 07' 997 C4S

Ventus V12 evo K110;

Tire Rack has them for $784.00+ shipping for the 19" set

Scott

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Porsche&autoYear=2007&autoModel=911+Carrera+S&autoModClar=Coupe&frontWidth=235/&frontRatio=35&frontDiameter=19&frontSortCode=57260&rearWidth=295/&rearRatio=30&rearDiameter=19&rearSortCode=58099&tab=All

I don't fill up my Motive - I just fill up the car's reservoir to full and attach the empty Motive, then pump up to around 12-15 pounds. Works the same, and you don't have to worry about cleaning out the Power Bleeder.

Best idea of the day and that one deserved a "+" mark. Make me go duhhh, why didn't I think of that. thanks, Scott

Hard to make that call but for an all season daily driver I would go for the 07 /08 S 997. It a great car and very civilized. In my opinion the 997 is a better car than the 996. Make sure you get one with the Sport Chrono package.. Makes a big difference.

Both are easy to work on..

I think you may regret the GT3 as an all season car. It was after all designed to be a race car...

Just my 2 cents.....

One last thing, I agree with Phil, get a 997. I have a 996 and the difference is HUGE. The 997 GT3 may be more of a stretch but the investment will be worth it in the end.

Scott

I am looking to get either a 04/05 GT3 or an 07/08 S coupe. I would love a new but that is the extent of my wallet :) . Question is - which is a better car with these parameters in mind:

1) It will be my daily driver

2) I will be driving it in the winter with winter tires

3) I like to do most of the maintainence myself

"Poshness" dosen't matter - I like handling and firm suspension

Thoughts?

Have you ever driven a GT3? I love it and could live with it most everyday but it has a very heavy clutch and that would be noticed in traffic. Much harsher ride, like Phil said it is designed to be what it is, a race car. Phenomenal engine....I am confident that the Good Lord has one himself parked outside the pearly gates.

This is a "tough" decision to make and you can't go wrong with either one. Do you intend to track the car? If not then the S might be more livable. If you are going to track the car and can afford it, get the GT3 and never look back. Hard to imagine ever outgrowing that car on the track. Everyone I know in PCA who has one loves them.

BUT there is a reason you find so many low mile GT3's for sale and it is NOT because they lack performance....

All the best,

Scott

I had mine changed when replacing my clutch. I know that doesnt answer your question directly but if you want to drive to Tampa, 'vortex will provide excellent service for very reasonable cost. Replacing the AOS was the best money that I have spend on my 02 996C2.

Finally stopped smoking on startup after tracking the car.

I have to vouch for the crew at Vortex as well. Not only are the prices fair, the techs know their stuff but they stand behind their work too. I had a bad water pump bearing on one they put in. They replaced it after 6 months at NO CHARGE!. I expected the part to be covered but not the labor. Also had a difficult clutch-flywheel set up and they went way above and beyond for a happy client.

Call Doug or Sarah for a quote at 813-874-1911.

All the best,

Scott Jaehne

I was afforded a unique opportunity to test how much difference, if any, cup tires would perform at an AX event compared to street tires. I was asked to help design and setup an AX course for our Sunday event. I ran my street tires on the setup day and after a couple of laps did a consistent 46.5 second run. at the event on cup tires I ran a 44.2

A beautiful day at Zepherhills Air Port with a good turn out of participants. I believe we had 40 drivers and a variety of cars. Unfortunately for me, I had one of the top dogs run in my class who even took first overall with a 42.2 (beating our national champion) but I took second in class and in the top 5 overall. the total scores did not get posted yet but it was fun anyway so here is one of my faster runs and one practice run where I did not do so good.

Sounds like Mr. Shields took ya to school but he does that to virtually everyone in Suncoast. See you at the events, Scott

I'm a new owner of a '99 996 C2 looking for some advise as to my next step. My clutch pedal is extremely stiff and squeeky. I'm coming from a 2 year old VW Golf GTI 6-speed and driving the 911 with the stiff clutch is very different. The dealer said the previous owner installed a 'racing clutch' so i'm not sure if the symptoms I am seeing are normal or not. When i press the clutch lightly I get a rattle and when i press it all the way down i get a whinny shrill high pitched noise. The car makes some rattling noises when it starts although these seem to stop or at least become less apparent after 30 seconds or so. However this evening i noticed that when parked and running there is a rattle from the rear right of the car that stops for about 15 seconds and then starts again. I am thinking about taking it to the dealer on Monday and have them drop the transmission and check it along with the clutch, IMS and RMS. Does that make sense and is there anything else I should have them look at? FYI, they have already done a major maintenance service on the car which included changing the oil and filter. There was nothing in the oil or in the filter and there are no oil leaks. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

I have a one piece lightweight flywheel and the transmission rattles. I understand this to be backlash in the transmission. It occurs mostly at idle. When I press the clutch in it goes away since I am disconnecting the drive line from the transmission. I can faintly hear it to about 2000 rpm and then the transmission is loaded and no noise. This is common and "normal" for this set up. The whirl sounds like a throwout bearing to me but wiser gents like loren might be able to help further.

The rattle, I would not worry about. The other symptoms, I would have checked.

Scott

After running Michelin PS's on my 997 for 4 years, I took the plunge and moved to the Hankook Ventus, primarily based on the Car & Driver test. I can't comment on treadwear yet, but they ar equieter than the Michelin's and based on my relatively conservative driving style--- there is no difference whatsoever in handling braking, wet or dry. I almost succombed to the old argument "it is a 911, you should put on the best", bu tin the end went for it. I amvery satisfied at spending only $ 800 for 4 new tires

Mike

I have had the Hankooks on my 996 for 6000 miles and am happier tan I could have ever imagined. I have 3 autocross and 1 DE event on them and these rock. Great in FL rain. It only knows how to down pour here in Tampa. The price is just icing on the cake.

Scott

Hi guys,

has anybody had a ecu remap on a 996tt? thinking of having it done from revo in the uk, is it worth it and can you feel the the results?

I was thinking of the same upgrade, should I have done this on a dyno? We have a shop that upgrades on a Dyno and it seems this might be thr optimal route even if it is more $$.

Thoughts?

Scott

Concur with Racerden! Clean the rotors with either a non solvent based brake cleaner or hot soapy water and install pads making sure you rinse off the detergent well. I have been changing brakes for over 30 years and have never had any type of reaction from swapping pads. I personally would just flush the rotors with a non solvent based cleaner, with with clean, dry shop towels and then install the pads. I have found CRC Brakleen 05050 to be an excellent choice. I tend to shy away from the cheaper house brands although some have worked well.

Tom

I appreciate the replies and have left + marks for helping me out.

Scott

I need some input. I put Hawk HPS pads on new rotors and I am totally unhappy with them.

I want to go to Pagid Orange pads on my 996. The question is now that the Hawk pads are bedded to the rotors what is the procedure for removing that layer of (Hawk HPS) material so that I can bed in the new Pagids?

There are ~ 600 miles on these rotors and I do not want to live with the pads but I don't want to lay an incompatible film on top of the film currently on the rotors and create a judder in my brakes.

I certainly don't want to replace rotors.

Will brake cleaner suffice?

Will the more abrasive Pagid pads scrub off the Hawk pad material?

I appreciate the advice.

Gosh, I know, I know, what was I thinking???

Thanks,

Scott

I am looking to replace my Michelin PS2 N1's. I do some DE and autocross and occasional daily driving. Serious sticker shock on the Michelin's, so I'm looking at the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110's at less than 1/2 the price of the Michelin's. Sizes are 295 (or 305)/30/19 and 235/35/19.

Are the V12's up to the task of occasional track / DE use?

We just got back from the 2 day Roebling Road Raceway DE yesterday and these tires handled very well for a street tire. With Price considered, they were outstanding. They were progressive and stickier than either my wife or I had expected. I have no reservations about recommending these and I will probably buy them again. Just understand they are what they are and they are not a R-compound tire.

Scott

I probably will be replacing the tires on my '09 C4S in the next two or three months. I think my original tires were Bridgestones and I replaced them at 19,000 miles with Michelin Pilot Sport "N1" rated tires.

Does anyone have any experience with tires that are not "N" rated on a 997-2 Carrera?

I realize that Porsche recommends the "N" rated tires but they are quite expensive. I am thinking of trying something a little less costly. I paid $1,900.00 for the Michelin tires and I will probably only get about 20-22,000 miles out of them. I figure if I buy cheaper tires and don't like them they won't last long anyway. I drive a little over 2000 miles a month so I would only have to endure the cheaper tires for about ten months.

I like the looks and the price of the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 tires available from Discount Tire. A set of them after rebate is less than $800.

Has anyone had experience with that brand of tires or that specific tire?

Does anyone have any rants or raves about any tires?

Thanks

MWS

I am running the Hankooks 19" and have been extremely happy with them. Great on autocross and the street. I will run them at Roebling in a week and let you know if I am happy on the track. So far A+

Unless you track the car a lot I would stick with OEM.

Both my wife and I track this car

I am going to replace the 9 year old rubber brake lines with braided stainless ones. I know to use a flare nut wrench but my question is what size? It appears to be 11mm?

Should these be on very tight? I do not want to round them off. Any tips or insights are appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott