Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

996driver

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 996driver

  1. Loren, Can I use a 18"x 8.5" 40 offset on my 2001 C2 narrow body?
  2. Very very well said. Yes it is worth it. We just rejoined for 3 years. We have met some wonderful friends. My wife and I both run autocross and HPDE events and they welcome us and our two sons (7 and 10) like no other group I have ever experienced. Suncoast Region PCA (Tampa) has been fantastic. The dealers support the club, the socials and fun-runs are a blast. Join and participate and you will never look back. Join and don't participate and you will mostly get a magazine out of it. Scott
  3. This is great news as an owner of a 2001 996. I have 68,000 miles on the car now, I run Autocross and HPDE events and my experience has been that the car and the engine have been bulletproof for me. I am thinking about having the IMS upgraded at this time given the miles. I would like to time this with a new clutch but I had that done only 10k ago, and yes I don't know why I let them talk me out of it at the time...I dont like pushing my luck and my reasoning is that the clutch is relatively inexpensive to replace early but an engine is another matter. This article gives me some peace of mind. Thoughts? Thanks, Scott
  4. Loren, Why couldn't I access the TSB's? Thanks, Scott
  5. Style aside and with all respect, there is adequate evidence that one should not mix tires from front to rear. Without going through a "prove it" let me offer a "consider this" and see if it causes us to think about how a tire's traction works by illustrating a couple of points. What if I put Hoosier R6 slicks (max adhesion) on the front of a 911 and flexible sidewall all season tires (minimum adhesion) on the rear. How would this effect the way the car rotates through a turn? What if I then put the R6 slicks (max adhesion) on the rear and the flexible side wall all season tires (minimum adhesion) on the front of the 911. How would this effect the way the car rotates through a turn? Considering the ~60/40 weight distribution and the pivot point of a 911 when answering. How does the sidewall flexibility effect the slip angle of each tire in these two situations. What would happen in the wet and in the dry? What would happen to braking? The N-Rating has to do with load ability and thus sidewall stiffness considering they are designed for a truly one of a kind application on a vehicle with up to a 63%/47% weight distribution. What other car has this characteristic? After you develop an understanding of what a tire does, what it can do and what it cannot do you will appreciate why Porsche goes to the effort to actually co-develop tires. Think about the examples. You will then understand a little bit of why it is advisable to have matching tires front and rear (especially on a 911). I went through this because while I do not know about damaging the all-wheel drive system, I do know that Adidas is correct in his post. Mismatching tires front and rear can be dangerous. Most folks who don't know better will not mismatch "slicks and slops" but why not learn what to do and do it right. Then again, most folks are not driving 911's. Porsche driving is so much more than just owning a Marquee car. It is a lifelong pursuit to understand why THESE cars can do things no other car on the road can do and then learn to make them do it on a track. It is about understanding why these cars consistently win and win and win. Understanding why Porsche refines rather than reinvents. Above all, P-car drivers look out for each other and help each other learn. No one here wants to see anyone get hurt or hurt someone else so make your tire choice based on your driving style and be safe. Here is a link to a great book, if you have not already read it, which explains what I am illustrating. It is less than $11.00 on amazon. Give it a read. http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Solo-Racing-Techniques-Autocrossing/dp/0962057312/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1290913198&sr=8-1 I am on my P-Car learning curve, have been for 6 years now and am having the time of my life with other P-Car fans in the PCA, Chin MS and online. I hope this helps instead of "proving it". All the best, Scott BTW, did you figure out how the two examples will react?
  6. You did not state the mileage but you may be in need of new shocks. I would save for a PSS9 setup and a good alignment. An set of adjustable drop links with and adjustable rear sway bar might settle it down and make it rotate a little better. There are a lot of members who really know suspensions that can comment. http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/986SWAYBAR.html Scott
  7. An experienced driver once advised me to put my $2,000 in to an instructo and seat time. You know what? He was right. My car is faster now. :renntech:
  8. I would be looking at pad upgrades instead of full out brake upgrade. The link below is to Pagid. look through their coefficients of friction and decide. Scott http://www.pagid-brake-pads.co.uk/products/ Lowering your car will also help with braking.
  9. I would be looking at pad upgrades instead of full out brake upgrade. The link below is to Pagid. look through their coefficients of friction and decide. Scott http://www.pagid-brake-pads.co.uk/products/
  10. Ventus V12 evo K110; Tire Rack has them for $784.00+ shipping for the 19" set Scott http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Porsche&autoYear=2007&autoModel=911+Carrera+S&autoModClar=Coupe&frontWidth=235/&frontRatio=35&frontDiameter=19&frontSortCode=57260&rearWidth=295/&rearRatio=30&rearDiameter=19&rearSortCode=58099&tab=All
  11. Best idea of the day and that one deserved a "+" mark. Make me go duhhh, why didn't I think of that. thanks, Scott
  12. One last thing, I agree with Phil, get a 997. I have a 996 and the difference is HUGE. The 997 GT3 may be more of a stretch but the investment will be worth it in the end. Scott
  13. Have you ever driven a GT3? I love it and could live with it most everyday but it has a very heavy clutch and that would be noticed in traffic. Much harsher ride, like Phil said it is designed to be what it is, a race car. Phenomenal engine....I am confident that the Good Lord has one himself parked outside the pearly gates. This is a "tough" decision to make and you can't go wrong with either one. Do you intend to track the car? If not then the S might be more livable. If you are going to track the car and can afford it, get the GT3 and never look back. Hard to imagine ever outgrowing that car on the track. Everyone I know in PCA who has one loves them. BUT there is a reason you find so many low mile GT3's for sale and it is NOT because they lack performance.... All the best, Scott
  14. I have to vouch for the crew at Vortex as well. Not only are the prices fair, the techs know their stuff but they stand behind their work too. I had a bad water pump bearing on one they put in. They replaced it after 6 months at NO CHARGE!. I expected the part to be covered but not the labor. Also had a difficult clutch-flywheel set up and they went way above and beyond for a happy client. Call Doug or Sarah for a quote at 813-874-1911. All the best, Scott Jaehne
  15. Sounds like Mr. Shields took ya to school but he does that to virtually everyone in Suncoast. See you at the events, Scott
  16. I have a one piece lightweight flywheel and the transmission rattles. I understand this to be backlash in the transmission. It occurs mostly at idle. When I press the clutch in it goes away since I am disconnecting the drive line from the transmission. I can faintly hear it to about 2000 rpm and then the transmission is loaded and no noise. This is common and "normal" for this set up. The whirl sounds like a throwout bearing to me but wiser gents like loren might be able to help further. The rattle, I would not worry about. The other symptoms, I would have checked. Scott
  17. I have had the Hankooks on my 996 for 6000 miles and am happier tan I could have ever imagined. I have 3 autocross and 1 DE event on them and these rock. Great in FL rain. It only knows how to down pour here in Tampa. The price is just icing on the cake. Scott
  18. I was thinking of the same upgrade, should I have done this on a dyno? We have a shop that upgrades on a Dyno and it seems this might be thr optimal route even if it is more $$. Thoughts? Scott
  19. I appreciate the replies and have left + marks for helping me out. Scott
  20. I need some input. I put Hawk HPS pads on new rotors and I am totally unhappy with them. I want to go to Pagid Orange pads on my 996. The question is now that the Hawk pads are bedded to the rotors what is the procedure for removing that layer of (Hawk HPS) material so that I can bed in the new Pagids? There are ~ 600 miles on these rotors and I do not want to live with the pads but I don't want to lay an incompatible film on top of the film currently on the rotors and create a judder in my brakes. I certainly don't want to replace rotors. Will brake cleaner suffice? Will the more abrasive Pagid pads scrub off the Hawk pad material? I appreciate the advice. Gosh, I know, I know, what was I thinking??? Thanks, Scott
  21. We just got back from the 2 day Roebling Road Raceway DE yesterday and these tires handled very well for a street tire. With Price considered, they were outstanding. They were progressive and stickier than either my wife or I had expected. I have no reservations about recommending these and I will probably buy them again. Just understand they are what they are and they are not a R-compound tire. Scott
  22. I am running the Hankooks 19" and have been extremely happy with them. Great on autocross and the street. I will run them at Roebling in a week and let you know if I am happy on the track. So far A+
  23. I am going to replace the 9 year old rubber brake lines with braided stainless ones. I know to use a flare nut wrench but my question is what size? It appears to be 11mm? Should these be on very tight? I do not want to round them off. Any tips or insights are appreciated. Thanks, Scott
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.