REDLINE WINS

Make sure the tires all have the correct N rating as per Porsche for the GT3. If the N rating is correct then check the production of tires and see if they are within 1 or 2 months from each other. I have a client with the same issue, we checked everything and found all normal. Only after talking with Porsche Tech Line did we find the problem...right rear tire was made ten months later than all the rest. We replaced the tire, problem no longer present. Porsche claims this issue only effects the 996 GT3.

Robert

redlinewins.com

The leak looks to be mostly the Variocam lifting element seal. Really easy to replace.

The leak also can be coming from the oil separator just above the cylinder head and running down. Not easy to replace.

Also oil can be leaking from the oil pump o-ring and the green seal for cam timing reference. The cam cover can also be leaking.

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Can the lifting element seal simply be tightened or does the seal need to be replaced? if it needs to be replaced, what is the process for doing this?

While it looks like this is one of the problems, it appears from the picture (as you pointed out) that there is leakage with closer to the front of the engine or above this point. Is their a way to further isolate the problem?

Additional thoughts? TIA

I would replace the seal then clean all the leaked oil residue.

The leak looks to be mostly the Variocam lifting element seal. Really easy to replace.

The leak also can be coming from the oil separator just above the cylinder head and running down. Not easy to replace.

Also oil can be leaking from the oil pump o-ring and the green seal for cam timing reference. The cam cover can also be leaking.

When ready status cannot be achieved it will not reset unless the fault issue is addressed and repaired. Resetting the DME to turn off the check engine light will not automatically achieve ready status. The vehicle will in time through drive cycles will achieve ready status ONLY if the fault or faults have been completely repaired. The technician can "short cut" the drive cycles by performing "short testing" with the factory system tester. If short testing is completed in all OBD aspects then ready status will be achieved.

If you are getting a "ticking" sound when you turn off your AC it is a faulty servo motor. If the sound is more like a "whistle" then the expansion valve is faulty...the valve is located just in front of the pollen filter.

Moaning of the front suspension when steering is usually faulty upper strut bearings which have been updated. Lose sway bars links will cause a loud pop or click when hitting bumps...I have tighten the sway bar links during PDI's because they left the factory lose.

As for your rpm drop when selecting D when cold may be a torque transfer fault which is related to our great MAF sensors. More diagnosis with a PST2 Tester will be needed.

Another issue that will cause your coolant light to flash is the engine compartment temp sensor. The sensor is held by a rubber grommet and at times will vibrate itself free dropping onto the motor, which is much hotter than the air surrounding it. When this happens your engine compartment fan never seem to turn off and the low coolant temp light will flash even though you are not losing coolant or have a leak. This is because the DME looks at this temp sensor and will turn the low level light on as a default.

i hope this helps...sorry for the mix up.

bose_box.pdf

It is sometimes necessary to remove the side airbag to replace the door glass. I personally have been able to remove the window regulator without doing this but sometimes I have too loosen the four M6 bolts just enough to allow the airbag to give me some room. Warranty actually pays the tech to reset the airbag light for the tech would have to check window operation and adjust if necessary which pops the light on. Dealer should reset without any cost from you with the PST2 Tester.

955 618 040 02 Trailer Coupling Control Unit

It has been changed twice (00 and 01). This is the latest number but I don't know the differences.

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Changes in software...

I borrowed this image from another thread on this site.

I'm curious about these parts that hang down about an inch or so below the underbody in front of the front tires. 

What is this part called, and what is its function?  

Just guessing, but is it an air dam, to help keep the tires on the road?  

Or perhaps is its purpose to sacrifice itself to help keep the front end from bottoming out -- like a first line of defense?

There are a lot of uneven street surfaces all around where I live and work -- drains, streets meeting at hills, uneven elevations -- and unless I go extra slow and be careful to drive over uneven surfaces at a 45-degree angle (sort of counter-productive to the purpose of a Boxster), I might tear these things to shreds.

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Air ducting for the brakes as used on the GT3 and GT2.

This problem is due to a faulty door control unit...replaced many under warranty.

It even looks like the factory tool which is in my pic.

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I wonder who copied who... :D

I thought there was a way to press the bearing out of the hub without taking everything apart (thus avoiding the need for a realignment), no?

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There is a way to replace the wheel bearing with the wheel housing still mounted to the car...you will need to purchase a OTC Hubtamer tool set (or similar). With this set you can pull out the hub and press the new bearing in. I have this set and it works great.

The connector has two tabs that lock it into place...you have to press both tabs at the same time and then pull, you need to press the tabs really hard for it to unlock.

You can twist the whole connector assembly and unlock it from the roll bar to gain better access of the tabs if neccesary.

Anytime a new AC control unit is replaced you must perform a system test with the PST2 tester in which the "blinking" of the display will stop.

My 1998 Boxster with 70,000 miles started to giving me problems this year.   It has been a very good and reliable until now and suddenly the following problems started within last few months:

1. The Clam Shell wont open - fixed the drive cable per Toolpants advice.

2. Horn started to acting up by beeping with heavy braking - in process of replacing the horn plate with toolpants help.

3. CD changer quit working - replaced with new changer, but still doesn't work.  Toolpants going to help me troubleshoot by swapping the radio unit.

4. The "Double Beeps" when locking with the remote control - I am still working on this problems.

5. Air Conditioning Blower motor has been making little noise and it has stopped couple of time recently.   I have feeling that it will give up soon.

6. Driver side sun visor mirror won't stay up - things to fix.

7. The Cup Holders broke few times already - continue fixing and breaking!

How about your Boxster ?   Am I the only one having these problems this year ?

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3. This is usually a head unit so Toolpants is on the right path.

4. Double beeps usually related to convertible top, single beep usually is something that is still open or the micro switch for that protection is faulty when you try to arm the system...center console door, rear or front deck lid, radio contact, etc., etc.

5, 6 and 7. All common problems.

Hope this helps.

Have the tech give you back those sensors and plug them back in...then fold the sensor over and zip tie the whole lot. The plugs is located right on the rear suspension hub assembly.

air filter and pollen filter will need replacement.

With the radio on, hold the "TP" button for 5 seconds until the active screen "Becker" appears. Then turn the right hand knob one click at a time until the radio window displays the serial number of the radio.

PM me the serial number - I have a little program that works 95% of the time.

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Ditto that...if Loren can't get it I can.

955 505 311 04 Front bumper.

955 505 681 01 Left grille.

955 505 683 01 Right grille.

955 505 683 01 Upper grille.

955 505 684 00 Lower grille.

955 505 061 03 Spoiler.

955 505 915 01 Upper cover.

All others related are interchangable. Hope this helps.

It is located just behind the right wheel well next to the CD changer if so equipped...if you pull the storage cover and look up and back you will see it. Looks just like the ones used in Boxster and 996.

Are you referring to the whistling sound when the fan is turned up high?  I get this sound when the windows and doors are all closed and the fan is on high.  Check if this happens with the car stopped.  The dealer couldn't figure out why this is happening and how to fix it.  I'm going in again for my 20k service and I'll ask if they figured it out.  It seems to be a common issue in the Cayennes on the lot.

If this is your problem, try opening the window a little or the sunroof.  that seems to relieve the air pressure and stop the noise.

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There should be a new TSB for the whistling sound at your dealer by now. It has to with little holes on the front door frames that need to be sealed up. Should be covered under warranty.

the problem is the switch...porsche has a updated switch to hopefully cure the issue. i think there is a current TSB on this.

I had this exact problem and it turned out to be nothing more than a rear left side stop/tail light bulb. The internal centre earth connection was faulty.

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bingo!

any cel's yet...if so which faults?