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REDLINE WINS
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Make sure the tires all have the correct N rating as per Porsche for the GT3. If the N rating is correct then check the production of tires and see if they are within 1 or 2 months from each other. I have a client with the same issue, we checked everything and found all normal. Only after talking with Porsche Tech Line did we find the problem...right rear tire was made ten months later than all the rest. We replaced the tire, problem no longer present. Porsche claims this issue only effects the 996 GT3. Robert redlinewins.com
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Can the lifting element seal simply be tightened or does the seal need to be replaced? if it needs to be replaced, what is the process for doing this? While it looks like this is one of the problems, it appears from the picture (as you pointed out) that there is leakage with closer to the front of the engine or above this point. Is their a way to further isolate the problem? Additional thoughts? TIA I would replace the seal then clean all the leaked oil residue.
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The leak looks to be mostly the Variocam lifting element seal. Really easy to replace. The leak also can be coming from the oil separator just above the cylinder head and running down. Not easy to replace. Also oil can be leaking from the oil pump o-ring and the green seal for cam timing reference. The cam cover can also be leaking.
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Emissions Testing and OBD
REDLINE WINS replied to ekename's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
When ready status cannot be achieved it will not reset unless the fault issue is addressed and repaired. Resetting the DME to turn off the check engine light will not automatically achieve ready status. The vehicle will in time through drive cycles will achieve ready status ONLY if the fault or faults have been completely repaired. The technician can "short cut" the drive cycles by performing "short testing" with the factory system tester. If short testing is completed in all OBD aspects then ready status will be achieved. -
If you are getting a "ticking" sound when you turn off your AC it is a faulty servo motor. If the sound is more like a "whistle" then the expansion valve is faulty...the valve is located just in front of the pollen filter. Moaning of the front suspension when steering is usually faulty upper strut bearings which have been updated. Lose sway bars links will cause a loud pop or click when hitting bumps...I have tighten the sway bar links during PDI's because they left the factory lose. As for your rpm drop when selecting D when cold may be a torque transfer fault which is related to our great MAF sensors. More diagnosis with a PST2 Tester will be needed.
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Another issue that will cause your coolant light to flash is the engine compartment temp sensor. The sensor is held by a rubber grommet and at times will vibrate itself free dropping onto the motor, which is much hotter than the air surrounding it. When this happens your engine compartment fan never seem to turn off and the low coolant temp light will flash even though you are not losing coolant or have a leak. This is because the DME looks at this temp sensor and will turn the low level light on as a default.
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Disconnecting Rear Bose Enclosure
REDLINE WINS replied to dsumners's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
i hope this helps...sorry for the mix up. bose_box.pdf -
It is sometimes necessary to remove the side airbag to replace the door glass. I personally have been able to remove the window regulator without doing this but sometimes I have too loosen the four M6 bolts just enough to allow the airbag to give me some room. Warranty actually pays the tech to reset the airbag light for the tech would have to check window operation and adjust if necessary which pops the light on. Dealer should reset without any cost from you with the PST2 Tester.
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Changes in software...
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Air ducting for the brakes as used on the GT3 and GT2.
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This problem is due to a faulty door control unit...replaced many under warranty.
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I wonder who copied who... :D
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There is a way to replace the wheel bearing with the wheel housing still mounted to the car...you will need to purchase a OTC Hubtamer tool set (or similar). With this set you can pull out the hub and press the new bearing in. I have this set and it works great.
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Disconnecting Rear Bose Enclosure
REDLINE WINS replied to dsumners's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
The connector has two tabs that lock it into place...you have to press both tabs at the same time and then pull, you need to press the tabs really hard for it to unlock. You can twist the whole connector assembly and unlock it from the roll bar to gain better access of the tabs if neccesary. -
Anytime a new AC control unit is replaced you must perform a system test with the PST2 tester in which the "blinking" of the display will stop.