Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

seanmcr6

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About seanmcr6

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Profile Fields

  • From
    Fort McMurray, AB
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 911 C4S
  • Former cars
    97 Eagle Talon TSI
  1. I know it's thanksgiving here... But I'm in Ojai, Cali and I was doing a brake bleed before a track day Sat and the previous owner stripped one of the bleeder screws (this is the first bleed ive done on her). Anyone in the general area that has an extra one I could buy?! You would be my hero!!!! Sean
  2. I've been having this issue for just over 2 months now. When the engine is cold, it starts and then about 2 seconds later it starts to stumble. The rpms drop to 500 and then after a couple of seconds the engine increases it's revs to about 1200. It will stay there for about a minute and then settle down to a regular 750-800 rpm. Here's a vid: http://vimeo.com/v3rnica/coldstumble EDIT: I don't know why this vid doesn't show up...if you click on View on Vimeo, it plays just fine... Here's another, shorter, vid: http://www.vimeo.com/25356604 This does not happen when the engine is even the slightest bit warm. I've unplugged the MAF, still happens. Cleaned and checked the TB. Still happens, every looked ok inside TB. New air filter...air filter box inspection. All ok. It's been suggested that there might be a bad temp sensor, I have a durametric, but I'm unsure which temp sensor to record during startup to try and find fault. I do notice the SAP seems to whine quite loudly at startup....but frankly, it's always done that since I bought the car last year, but I never had this engine stumble. Any suggestions for thing to look for before I haul this thing to the dealer? (again) Thanks sean
  3. I was hoping to hear from Loren on this... I've never taken the bumper off so I don't know if this is an area where you would have to apply pressure of any kind?! Yes, the gap is still off, they just left it.
  4. Well, I'm a photographer, so high rez images are easy. I am trying to keep the file sizes down however, but I think these show the damage pretty clear... sean
  5. So, I've had some coolant leak issues for the past 6 months....the dealer replace the front right rad in January....and the about 3 weeks ago, replace an o-ring in bypass valve on the front left rad. I had to go back to the dealer this weekend so they could replace an overflow tube or something like that on the coolant reservoir. Saturday morning, I was washing and polishing my car and noticed the front bumper was not seated properly. The gap along the bottom of the headlights was larger than it should be. So I starting examining more closely and found the following damage where the bumper and front right fender meet. To me, it looks like tool damage. Like someone used a big flathead screwdriver or pry bar to remove the bumper and removed a bunch of paint on the bumper and fender. It takes a lot to remove paint from the fender. This damage was NOT there the last time I washed and polished my car (a month ago) I showed it to my dealer when I went down and the service advisor said it just looked like a normal rock chip that might have "creeped" :| She said she'd show it to the service manager and get his feedback. When I picked up my car, she was occupied so the VW service rep had to give me my keys. No mention of it on the work order, the service manager wasn't around or available and I was left to drive home without any further communication. About 1 hour into my drive home, I wish I had stood there and insisted on getting more dialogue about the issue. My bumper has lots of dings, scratches and even some cracks (in the paint)....but it's plastic. I don't care as much. The fender is metal and a possible corrosion point. Not to mention, repairs are more costly and frankly, they never seem to be 100%. I'm just looking for some second opinions....does it look like a normal rock chip or some sort of "man made" damage? Thanks for your opinions, even if they vary from mine ;) sean
  6. Thanks for the replies. 1. I haven't been able to drop any oil out of the car, but the dipstick looks clean. Also, when the dealer installed the new reservoir tank, I had them do a full oil/filter change. I would hope they would notice something like that when they changed the filter. No? 2. The code on my reservoir cap ends in .01 so I guess I'll order a new, updated cap. However, the entire reservoir assembly is dry to the touch...all the time...and there is no evidence of liquid anywhere near it in the engine bay. 3. My windows do tend to fog up a lot, but not while the engine is running. There is condensation in the cabin and when it cools (-20 to -40 here) it gives me frozen windows on the inside. So I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing. The issue I have with continuously just bringing it to the dealer is the fact of how far away they are. Since buying the car in July, I've had to take it to Porsche 7 times, at 1000 Kms roundtrip overtime. Not that resale value is my primary concern, but the value of these 996's is definitely tied to their mileage more than their age. So the far that I've taken the car from 96000 Kms to 113000 Kms in 6 months would lead to a disturbing forecast of mileage accumulation over the next couple years. I bought a 911 partially because of their extremely high rate of reliability. I guess there should be an asterisk next to that claim excluding the 996 series.
  7. ok, so this is going on a 6 month saga now.... Bought the car in July, Porsche Certified Used. Drove home (across Canada) no issues. Sept...did a PCA autocross event. Car worked flawlessly. Driving home after the event coolant light came on. hmmm, maybe I ran it hot. It was a very cold day though. Topped up the coolant. Couple weeks later, light comes back on. Only seems to lose coolant when the engine is fully warm. Just a tick over the 80 mark (Cdn car) No puddle at my home or work. The saga begins. Porsche replaces the coolant reservoir tank (crack). PHEW. Nope....still leaking. Rate of loss seems to be increasing. A month later, Porsche roadside tows the car to the dealer in Edmonton. (I'm 5 hours away) and they say they will find and fix over xmas break (when I'm home) Get the call that the tech took the front bumper off. Found a ton of debris and crap and that there was coolant on BOTH rads. (outside) They've never seen a car kill both rads at the same time. We'll get back to you. Week later, they tell me the coolant system is holding pressure....no leaking. 4 days after that they say one of the rads has a stress crack. The replace the rad under warranty. The Tech says all is good. Car runs perfect, no leaking. Pick up my car. Drive it home (5 hours)...everything is fine. 4 days later. Coolant light is on. Top it up, open the valve. few days later....light is on again. When driving for prolonged periods now...when the engine is fully hot, I can smell coolant. Can't find from where....to where...its going. DRIVING ME CRAZY! Any other suggestions or tips? PLEASE? sean
  8. Unfortunately, I'm 5 hours from the closest "proper" shop that could vacuum bled the system. I did drive for an afternoon with the valve open..maybe that wasn't long enough. As for temps...it will hit a low of -50 at some point this winter...so I'll be running almost straight antifreeze ;) Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try running with the bleeder valve open for a few days instead of a few hours. Cheers sean
  9. SIGH...unfortunately....I am losing coolant somewhere. I'm burped the system...topped it up....burped...topped it up....etc. After a couple of weeks of this...I've put a full 4 litres into it. There is no way this is just replacing air in the system still is it? There is no puddle under the car at home or in my designated parking space at work...so it's not leaking while parked. Since the dealer just did a full oil & filter change...I'm going to assume I'm not having the dreaded intermix as the service tech would have found that out right. So the only thing I can think of is it only leaks under press (when the car is running) Does that sound right? Any other common (relatively speaking) issues that I might be able to self diagnose? Sean
  10. So the dealer just replaced my coolant tank (cracked). No problem for the first week or so. Then the weather got cold. Down to -22C overnight. Last night leaving work, start the car, everything is normal. Once the car warms up to the point the thermostat opens, I get a low coolant warming. Once the car warms up to the next "tick" on the gauge...the warning shuts off. Forgot to check the coolant level this morning before leaving. It's cold and I'm sick... Anyway, same exact thing. Started fine, warmed a little, drove off...thermostat opened BING BING low coolant. Temp moved up about a couple minutes later. Warning gone. Got to work, checked the coolant level and it looks fine. Above min, not quite to max. No leak that I can detect. So what gives? At first I thought maybe they forgot to "burp" the system when they replaced the tank....sound about right? Also, I asked them to check the antifreeze level as it gets to -50 here in the dead of winter....and the dealer specifically told me the coolant in the tank was tested to -40. In the TANK. That's great, thanks...I know you just replaced the tank and put fresh coolant in it....my concerns is the other 21 litres of coolant in the system Any thought would be appreciated...
  11. did you ever get this worked out? I'm looking to do the same, but with a 996 C4S....
  12. Ditto.... To drop the tranny on my 6 speed, C4S....I have to drop the engine? I thought I only had to undo 3 extra bolts at the front the separate the carban shaft...
  13. hmmm, I'll try this at lunch today...thanks sean ok, tried this at lunch....3 times....doesn't seem to be binding as far as I can tell. So I guess that's good news, but the search continues... sean
  14. hmmm, I'll try this at lunch today...thanks sean
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.