mtimmy

no body knows?

Do you guys know what is the STOCK boost level of a CTT?...

Do you guys know what is the STOCK boost level of a CTT?...

Hi, guys long term member here been in the 996 for almost 10 years,, just brought a 04 TTS with 56k on the clock, for 35000 out the door with tax and lic. every thing checks out okay, comes with 22inch rims fully loaded with carbon fiber interior , pcm etc etc.

few things that bugs me hope you guys can help out....

The Fuel release button and tailgate button do not work, (basically the whole control don't work)... I assume its a fuse? somebody poped the door panel and forgot to put the plug in?...

before I go ahead and try to open open the door panel and look is there any one that can give me heads up on what is the most common problem that causes this.

2nd thing, most mind bugging, I have been thinking to flash it with a APR ever since I got it, (for 2 days?) because its not as fast as my lightly modded BMW 335i putting 400whp ( I know its doubles the weight ALMOST)... long story short.,! I opened the rear panel where the ECU is... shocked!... there is a extra module that has wires spiced in to the ecu saying RINSPEED on it.. I try to look it up online but can't find any information about it... Is this a rinspeed lowering module? or is is a piggy back ecu?.... I do not have any information on it., nor how to operate it...

3nd thing, the PCM do not read the navi disc at all, it seems like the lens is dead or something.,,. what are my choices? ( I am tech savy, I have been modding my friends and my ps2 for many years so if there is a fix for it I will easily be able to perform myself.)

thanks in advance

Found a very good deal, (sub 25k) on a 04 Turbo but with 100k miles on the clock, what do you guys think?... what are the concerns should I be aware? thanks

I had that code before. turns out to be the solenoid that is on top of the engine that get stuck to always on causing the tank to purge all the time.

All the pics you should need are here.

This was a fuel door solenoid replacement - but the EVAP canister has to come out to do that. And, you can see the valve in the pics.

(Thanks to Chuck Jones for taking the pics for me).

Loren,

Thanks for the fast response. Lots of detail. I will take pictures and post the results if this fixes the problem. I had that whole inner shield out last weekend and I bet I must have knocked something loose...

As always, thanks for your huge contributions!

R/Tom

Gave up,.!!!! put every thing back together., drove it for two hours.,! no overheating!... hopefully its just stuck in one of those big hoses.!

but I'll keep an eye on it.

That doesn't sound good. What about opening up the hoses close to the water pump that have 90 degree bends in them? May be caught in there. Furthest I would imagine is at the intake to the radiators. Doubt it could go through the fins in those unless it was chopped up really fine.

tried the thermostat housing.. ., took the thermostat out., and couldn't find it....

I will try to look for it there., what if I can't find it?... will it do any harm if I leave that broken piece in the system.... rule out that the car do not overheat.

You can find the broken part mostly in the thermostat housing, besides the pump. Remove the thermostat and keep the new pump apart, for better access in that part of the engine. A new thermostat housing gasket is needed.

I will try to look for it there., what if I can't find it?... will it do any harm if I leave that broken piece in the system.... rule out that the car do not overheat.

You can find the broken part mostly in the thermostat housing, besides the pump. Remove the thermostat and keep the new pump apart, for better access in that part of the engine. A new thermostat housing gasket is needed.

Heard some tin tin tin sound in the pully area., and saw dripping coolant, I guess my water has gone ...

I ordered from sunset., 190 shipped.... opened every thing up .......

NOW here is the sad part.... found out one piece of the fins fall off from the old pump and its now somewhere in the system...

Can any body point me to the right place where I can open up and found that fallen piece of metal/plastic? ?

thanks

In short, any body have any recommandations for indy guys in around San Francisco area that knows Porsche well enough and have correct dealer diagnostic tools (PST2 etc etc. ) to work my MY99 C2, that don't charge arms and legs like Rector. I need to change out my cam actuator

After extend testing and reading, I have finally ruled out all sensor and wire related possibilities of my P1539 code. Now I am ready to shell out some $$$$ to get my actuator replaced, I can do it myself but I just don't want to invest the money and time to buy the special tools and engine hoist.

Basically they are all the same,.

xenon litronic, hid, etc etc., its just different name with different manufactures

Are the standard headlights for a 996 halogens or regular bulbs?

Halogen is standard - Litronic (or MY02 and newer BiXenon) are optional on Carrera.

yes I found out that too.. thanks

Yes. 100% positive.

are you sure this is the oil prsesure sender but not the variocam actuator?

are you sure this is the oil prsesure sender but not the variocam actuator?

Probably the sending unit, especially if it goes to 0 with the engine not running. Normally it's 5 when cold, then drops to 3.5 in 6th at 60mph. Pressure varies with RPM. Idle is about 1.5 when warm.

Thanks for the info. I can confirm that the dial is at zero when power is applied and as soon as you crank the engine the needle goes straight up to 5 and stays there.

Is the sender in a location (lower part of block) that could be reached by a DIY? I have a mechanic who I bring all my other cars to but he doesn't have any special tools for Porsche's - but is this a no-brainer repair for a normal mechanic or is it wise to take it to a Porsche specialist?

If you open the engine hatch and look on the right side, deep into the engine compartment, the sender is nested there. I bet it could be replaced without special tools albeit very tight space.

I attached the photo showing the two shiny terminals and the body of the sender, which is actually brass color (it shows up as black in the photo because of lighting). BTW, the gauge should read 0 when the engine is not running and ignition is in position I/II. When my sender went bad, it actually reads > 0.

Yeah., I know from the manual ., it say if every thing tested out okay replace actuator, but I tested it with the durametic the actuator actually did shift... will it still be a bad actuator?

Is there a possibility that the actuator did shift and advanced the timing to cause the rough idle however not enough for the cam sensor to tell it advanced enough timing?

Potential causes:

- Open circuit in triggering wire.

- Open circuit in B+ supply.

- Actuator faulty.

If everything electrical tests okay - then you have a bad actuator.

I browsed on ebay for a while., the price is around 100 + - with shipping

went to a local store got it for $110 with tax.

yes it work as advertised.,.., very easy to use you need to have air compressor though.

hih guys., I Just got the Uview 5500 coolant flush tool., checked the vacuum leak test and it holds pressure.

here is my question is there any drain plugs that I have to open to drain all the coolant out including the ones from the radiator and the one under the engine or I will be okay just use the vacuum method to suck all the coolant out from the refill tank....

thanks

mtimmy:

Did you get the tool online?

Please let me know if you found its operation to be as advertised, as I am considering buying one for my upcoming coolant tank replacement.

Regards, Maurice.

I keep getting the 1539 code, I tested the Voltage supply B+ wire and the triggering wire for ground/continuity but couldn't find any faults on it.

Tested with the durametic tool with the camshaft adjustment on bank 1 and bank 2., when activated , either bank 1 or 2 the idle went unstable, it tells me that the actuator is working (I can rule out a bad actuator?)

I have replaced the bank 2 hall sensor about 6 months ago ., (a bad install maybe)? very frustrated, couldn't figure out what is the problem.

....

can't think of any thing now..

btw any body have a photo of the actual variocam actuator because the plug type from ALLDATA dosen't look the same as the one I find in the car., I might be testing a wrong thing after all.

hih guys., I Just got the Uview 5500 coolant flush tool., checked the vacuum leak test and it holds pressure.

here is my question is there any drain plugs that I have to open to drain all the coolant out including the ones from the radiator and the one under the engine or I will be okay just use the vacuum method to suck all the coolant out from the refill tank....

thanks

Thanks Loren., What are GREAT expensive price that is.,.,

Its a Tiptronic, I think the wood is Dark maple or something

I already have the a 3 spoke wheel and airbag but the wood is cracked thats why I want to change it.

Can any body help me on this part.,

996 347 804 64 / 10 1264

is this the correct color that I am looking for?

6 speed or Tiptronic?

Wood color?

I had your VIN run and your option code for the steering wheel is IXPC.

So your steering wheel is part number 996.347.983.11.S40 Tiptronic steering wheel with dark burr maple and Savanna leather.

Are you sitting down? US MSRP $1159.86

Check with Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) for much better pricing.

Its a Tiptronic, I think the wood is Dark maple or something

I already have the a 3 spoke wheel and airbag but the wood is cracked thats why I want to change it.

Can any body help me on this part.,

996 347 804 64 / 10 1264

is this the correct color that I am looking for?

6 speed or Tiptronic?

Wood color?

I already have the a 3 spoke wheel and airbag but the wood is cracked thats why I want to change it.

Can any body help me on this part.,

996 347 804 64 / 10 1264

is this the correct color that I am looking for?

Can any body tell me what kind of interior is this by the vin

WP0CA299X1S653495

the reason I asked because I am looking on ebay and looking for some replacement like interior trim and steering wheel

And actually is there a steering wheel that would fit the correct color combo of this car., The original steering wheel is a tan/beige color 3 spoke with wood tiptonic (that is cracked)

but I would like to know is it actually a Tan color or a Beige color

the car is a MY01 C2 Convertible

thanks guys!!!

Most tire shops can get a lock nut off pretty easily. They see it all the time.

Althought they may ruin them so you'll want to have replacements with you.

Recently brought a MY01 convertible from auction., one of the tire has a nail in it and need to be patched., sadly. the car has no wheel lock key or spare wheel attached I guess someone must have stolen it

My MY99 wheel lock key dosen't work, I assume its a different set of combination, I would like to know is there any way to get another key?

HID (aka Litronic from porsche) Lights does actually turn a little bit more yellowish after couple hundred hours of use., if you want them to match., change both bulbs ., you can get a set of d2s bulbs for around 40 dollars .. just get the 4.3k color temp if you want to have stock looking color

Can any body tell me what is the easiest way to tell the difference between a C2 and a C4 MY 99 to 02

on the looks of it besides the obvious Carrera 4 on the back...?

I can have access to the whole car including the vin.

this is the vin no. btw

WPOCA299X1S653495