Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest
There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.
Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org
- View Classified Ads
- DIY Tutorials
- Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
- VIN Decoder
- Special Offers
OBD II P-Codes
- Paint Codes
- Videos System
- View Reviews
- and get rid of this welcome message
It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE
Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)
- No ads - advertisements are removed
- Access the Contributors Only Forum
- Contributing Members Only Downloads
- Send attachments with PMs
- All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
- Option Codes Lookup
- VIN Option Lookups (limited)
Hi Everyone, So I got a 2004 Cayenne TT and got a call from the wife last night that the red "low coolant" level was on the dash when she started it. I had the car towed back to my house, and got it on the lift this morning. The coolant tubes have been done (aluminum upgrade) but was worried it might be them again. After scoping the engine from above It was all dry and I could see the back of the aluminum tubes and didn't see any coolant anywhere. So after raising it up and going underneath the vehicle I scoped up the back side of the engine and came to what looks like an elbow off the back of the large coolant tube, and at least initially it appears that rubber elbow has a gaping rip in it (see picture). Sorry the pictures of it aren't the best but my scope is old. After looking at a diagram of the coolant tube system on the car I've determined that I'm pretty sure this ripped tube is what I have circled in red in the diagram below. My question is, do I have to remove the intake like to replace the aluminum tubes to get to this, or can it be done with it in place without intake removal? Thanks for any help! UPDATE: Just a quick update, what I thought was a rip in these photos is actually the metal "T" partially slid out of the rubber hose. I verified it is definitely leaking from there via my borescope and having someone dump a cup of distilled water in the reservoir. So basically I'm thinking a clamp/fastener gave way and the pressure of the system has allowed the hose to come off the metal "t". So it is definitely the "t" in that is circled in red in the diagram, question still remains (haven't yet had the time to pull all the engine panels off yet) can I reach it without intake removal. I'll know shortly just by removing everything just thought someone knowledgeable might know, thanks again. z
Loren, As always thank you so much sir! I figured out the part number today at my local dealer and was just coming back to update the thread but you always beat me to it haha. Only problem is there are none in the USA only Germany, paid twice as much then the parts cost to get them expedited from Germany. Hopefully will be here next week. My regulator went out and the cables got all knackered up in there and when I was removing the frame somehow the glass fell and shattered 😞. you live and you learn I guess. I've put an entire a/c system in this vehicle and it wasn't this big a PITA lol.
Hi, I need the part number for the cayenne window regulator clips, not the ones that come with the regulator but the green sandwich clips that attach the actual glass to those clips through the holes in the bottom of the window. I found a video that had them in it and took a picture of them from them below. Any help on part number or where I can get these would be VERY appreciated!
Thanks Loren, I was just coming back to put those numbers in here for anyone else, the dealer helped me find them this morning, should have checked the forum first :). Thanks.
Hey all, Was replacing my purge valve/line when I ran into an issue with another line, the one that connects back to purge valve line and runs on up to the top of the firewall. In the picture below it is "A" or number 31, anyway no parts diagram lists the part number on it and the number I read off the hose (7L5133306C) doesn't come up with anything. Can anyone tell me what part that hose is? Mine is in such degraded shape I don't want to put it back on, thanks.
Hey Loren, Just wanted to report back. Thanks so much for the helpful info again. I think as you said, I've overreacted. Based on the info you provided me about the DME needing to see 10-24°c, I just went out and checked the temperature in the garage this morning, it was a balmy 83°f in there. Then I hooked up Durametric and the engine temperature and intake temperature are both sitting at 39°c which is 15° over the 24°c in needs to be for the DME to activate the pumps.
Wow, thanks Loren! I'm thinking I possibly jumped the gun with how hot it has been in the garage. I shut the car off at about 8pm and it was at normal operating temperature (180° or so I think?) and then sat in a hot garage (this evening it measured 88° out there) all night. I"m thinking maybe the coolant temperature was slightly above 86° and that is why the pumps didn't come on. I'll make sure to hook up durametrics in the morning and see what it is showing since the conditions will be similar tomorrow. Any idea on why I'm not hearing that fan/motor running right after shut off? I know it is a totally different issue just weird happened on the same day. I would think the heat would actually make that system definitely come on so can't use that excuse, any ideas?
Well I just found out from calling Durametrics that activations are not supported on the 04 CTT engine module so I can't activate them. I did check the 40amp fuses and they are fine along with Durametrics not finding any fault codes preset (and no CEL obviously either). Not sure what else to do at this point. I wouldn't think anything is amiss if I hadn't heard my wife start the car and noticed the pumps were not on. Only other thing I find odd is after the car is shut off after driving it so it is fully warmed up, etc., there was a fan motor (I thought was the radiator fan possibly?) that would come on for about 10 seconds after you shut off the car, that no longer is coming on either. Any chance they are related? I'm out of ideas at this point. Also it has been really hot and humid here in South Florida, the garage feels like a sauna, even in the morning. I know the SAI's only operate at a certain temperature right? Does anyone know what that temperature is? I would guess the garage was over 80° this morning when I noticed they were not on. Also when I had Durametric hooked up I saw that under readiness the SAI had a showed it had passes the test.
Hi Loren, I definitely will this evening, but to my recollection aren't the bank 1 and 2 pumps fused separately? Seems very odd both would blow as neither pump was on. I'll put it on Durametrics as well tonight and report back.
Hey all, I had an SAI failure (bank 2) a couple weeks ago on my 04 CTT so had to install a new pump on the driver's side and also removed and cleaned the check valve, etc. System has worked perfect since then and it solved the CEL issue associated with the bad SAI pump. This morning I noticed when the wife started the car to go to work there was no higher idle/whine like normal, it sounded like a warm start where the idle was already at 700'ish rpms and the pumps were not on. No CEL or anything and it is not a atypical hot morning or anything so what's going on? I've never not heard them run on a cold start, and it was both the pumps, not just one, almost like the ECU was telling them not to turn on. I have Durametrics and will try to activate the system this evening but I didn't have time this morning. The car has been sitting in the garage since yesterday evening when I pulled it in from the driveway around 8pm so more about 12 hours. Everything runs perfect just weird that this is the first time I haven't heard the pumps come on with the higher idle like a normal cold start up and was wondering if anyone knows why? It was my understanding they are to come on every time on cold start
Hey guys, So my compressor wouldn't kick on the other day and after trying everything I new to do and scanning with Durametrics and finding nothing I took it to my trusted Indy. He found no faults either and said his hunch was the compressor is plugged b/c of debris and that I needed a new one. He put his gauges on the system and when revving the car the high pressure side didn't move hardly at all and he said it should go way down and that as many as he has replaced he is sure. I trust him implicitly, he is a friend as well. With that said he is moving in a few weeks across the country and is backed up solid, he said he "might" be able to get me in but not to get my hopes up. He said I shouldn't hesitate to do the job and then just bring it to him to pull the vacuum and recharge the system. I always do all the work to all my cars, only the Cayenne has ever gone to him and it is only because I don't have the coding abilities so I am mechanically inclined. He said the AC system is straight forward to remove, but he wants the compressor, dryer/condenser, etc. all replaced because of the crud that shot out of the system through his gauges. He said once it is all out I would need to flush the lines with an assload of brake cleaner. I have a lift in my garage so I'm thinking I'm going to tackle this, not really because I want to but because I feel like there is a definite possibility he will not be able to get me in before he leaves and I don't trust the other hack shops I know of around here. My thought is, if nothing else I can do most of the job so he has time to help if needed, but if I wait that window closes as he is shutting down his shop and plans to be gone by March unfortuantely. Has anyone tackled this job that can give some advice/pointers? I'm trying to get my hands on a service manual now but all I can find is from ebay sellers, if someone else has, or could send me the pages pertaining to this it would be greatly appreciated. I plan on filming the whole thing so it can be a diy for anyone in the future, but any guidance before I start would really help put me more in a favorable mindset. I'm already a little ticked I just bought the car and have this **** problem to deal with :( Thanks for any help!
Hey all, So very ironic day. Ironic in the fact that I just finished a 3000 mile journey with the old girl even towing a 6k lb payload for 1000 of that and she preformed flawlessly. Today I went out to get some landscape supplies and when I got back in the car the alert sounded and the car was completely locked up with "Steering Faulty" on the display. Couldn't even roll down the windows. Can't get the ignition on to even use Durametrics. I've read everything I can on it and it looks best case: battery, relay, cable, etc. or worst case: steering column. I had it towed to my house since it is a weekend and thought I would try to work on it myself as I do all my own maintenance on all my cars, but this thing is different. I've realized there are things I just can't do to this vehicle thanks to the way it was designed and I'm really bothered by it and that is all I will say about it as I went on a rant earlier today. Anyway, I guess I'm trying to weigh my options here and need some advice. The Cayenne is old (2004) and has pretty high miles (160K), I took a chance on it and it may come back to bite me big time on this. I did read some other threads on success having a PIWIS system unlock it or even that it has been a cable or a relay, but since it has totally locked me out of everything (thanks a million Porsche) I can't do jacksh%^W&t with it at the moment. I disconnected the battery for an hour or so and no change. If I can't get it to unlock I will have it towed to a small independent shop with a 30 year Porsche Master tech I have become friends with (he is the one that walked me through the manual unlock of the tranny for the tow truck). I guess I'm not sure what to do if it is a real expensive fix, I love the SUV, but it isn't worth very much if it was running so to put a big pot of money into it seems silly, but not sure what else to do. Any advice would be appreciated, honestly I'm just trying to decide what the options are if I'm not going to fix it, part it out, sell it as a parts vehicle? It was running flawless today and then bam, game over in a split second, ugh. Thanks in advance for any advice. EDIT: Looks like I posted this in the wrong MY forum, can an admin please move? Thanks.
Great, I'll hook it back up and see if I can find it and report back with a new file, thanks man!
First of all, it is always helpful to provide the car's year and model in these inquiries. Assuming it is a Cayenne: P0421 Catalytic conversion, bank 1 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty . P0431 Catalytic conversion, bank 2 – above limit value Possible cause of fault - Oxygen sensors in front of and behind catalytic converter are interchanged - Catalytic converter faulty. A little light reading on the subject of O2 readings and state of the cats (from a Boxster diagnostics manual, but the technology is the same): You need to go back to your Durametric system and pull up the graphical display of the before and after cat voltages to see if they are following each other; if they are, you need new cats. Thanks for the info, sorry it is a 2004 Base model, it says that on the excel file but people might miss it. The problem is I don't think Durametric can do the upstream O2's unless I'm missing something, I can't find that selection to include in the analysis graphing, do you know for sure it is there?
Hey all, So I'm trying to track down a 2 code CEL that my 04 has thrown, they are PO421 & P0431. I know these are Cat codes but since it could also be something else (bad 02, etc) I decided to record some live data to look at. I'm very new to Durametric and used it to capture the below values and exported it to an excel file. It is about 2.5 minutes worth of data and I wasn't sure exactly what to select in Durametric so I tried to get what I thought was appropriate to diagnose what to replace. The Values I selected were: 1. Exhaust Temp Ahead & After CAT 2. O2 Sensor Voltage Downstream Bank 1 & 2 3. Status of Catalyst Bank 1 & 2 I may be putting too much emphasis on temps, but based on the inlet/outlet temps of the CAT, I'm wondering if that is showing me the answer? At the beginning the inlet temp was lower but not by a ton, then midway through till the end the outlet temps were lower which I think is a sign the cat is not working correctly. I think the O2 readings appear ok since they don't jump around to much and stay around the .5V figure with mainly .6-.7 being the most common in the data stream which is where downstream O2's should be correct? I have no idea what the Status of Catalyst is and was hoping someone could clue me in. I selected it b/c I "thought" it might be important but the value is solid throughout not sure if that is good or bad or what or if it even tells anything. I'm trying to plan my course of action which I've game planned to a few different things depending on what the data tells me: 1. Maybe the CATS can revived with a chemical cleaner (doubtful). I know that these codes will throw if the cats operate at less than 95% efficiency, so maybe mine is only slightly below that and can be cleaned a bit, but the temperature data difference at the inlet vs outlet is making me think this might be a waste? 2. New O2 sensors. These aren't too expensive but I hate just throwing new parts at something without something to back it up. From the data stream it didn't look like they were too out of wack but maybe I'm missing something, I've certianly replaced them in other cars when I was having CAT codes and that corrected the problem so...dunno. 3. New CATS. I've found some reasonably priced aftermarket OEM fit/finish replacements from a company but hate to get into that if any of the easier stuff might work. 4. Go all ghetto and put an anti-fouler in the downstream O2's to get the light off (last resort). The car runs great and getting around 18 mpg in mostly city/some hwy, so that seems normal. Just need some advice for those of you that know Durametric and can help a member out by looking at the excel data file. If I missed some important data that I needed to log please tell me and I'd be happy to go data log whatever you all think I need to, again I'm new to Durametric and there are so many options I was a little overwhelmed and went with my "gut" feeling. Anyway thanks for any help, here is the exported data from Durametric: 2004_Cayenne_Durametric_Export