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CTTinTO

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About CTTinTO

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    Canada
  • Porsche Club
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  • Present cars
    Cayenne Turbo

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  1. I'm with the others.... do the transfer/diff oil changes yourself as it is very easy to do. As for your shifting problems, in all likelyhood it is indeed your valvebody on the way out. This is a common problem on most cayenne's, especially with your mileage. I believe most dealers are recommended the transmission control unit be replaced. The parts guy at my dealer claimed that they had a newer/updated version available. I talked to a friend at another P dealer and he told me not to bother with the TCU and just change the valve body. He indicated that this would solve all the shifting issues. Since my harsh shifting from 6th to 4th is somewhat intermittent, I have yet to address/fix the problem and have learned to live with it a little longer.
  2. it all depends on how the wheel bearing is replaced. According to the P-car service manual, they recommend leaving the knuckle in place and dropping the rear diff to remove the rear driveshaft. Once the shaft is out, the bearing can be pressed in/out while the knuckle is still on the car. You need a special press tool from Porsche although you could probably make an aftermarket one work as well. When I did my bearing I chose not to remove the diff and driveshaft. Instead I disconnected all the suspension arms and removed the knuckle. Once out, I used a hydraulic press mounted on a frame to remove/installt he bearing. Because I disconnected the suspension, I did an alignment afterwards. So if you go witht he first method, an alignment may not be necessary provided the bearing didn't have enough play and you did an alignment recently. Otherwise, just get an alignment done. But not for $200! thats a bit steep, even for a P-car dealer.
  3. your problem is likely the coolant pipes that are underneath the intake manifold (based on the description and cost figures) I'm not sure of the Cayenne S has the plastic T-pipe like the Turbo's which is an additional source for leak/failure. w.r.t. the coolant pipes under the manifold, the most complete link with details is here: My link have a look and it should get you up to speed. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, it is a reasonable DIY. Good luck!
  4. Awesome! thanks for the info! I'm going to have my CTT up on a hoist Saturday for an oil change so I can check the P/N then but I'm 99.9% positive now it is indeed a TR-60SN. Thanks for the link on the reman valve body. I will probably do mine at the end of this summer if my problem gets worse. Right now, I rarely experience the harsh downshift, mostly because I avoid that particular driving mode. But either way, I want to do my homework before I take the plunge,
  5. I was surfing some Club Touareg sights and Touareg owners experience the same transmission valve body issues we Cayenne owners do. Some owners have taken it upon themselves to procure reman valve bodies while others have found repair components. I found one interesting thread on repair components offered by a company called sonnax (www.sonnax) Touareg owners are replacing component #4 from this breakdown: http://www.sonnax.com/downloads/valve-body-layouts/VBL-AWTR-60SN.pdf apparently the cost is under $300 for the kit + $75 for the installation tool (looks like a guide for the boring) I figure if a valvebody from the dealer is going to cost me $1500, I might as well first try this repair!? But I need to know the Aisin model number for the transmission of an 06' Cayenne... Can anyone help?
  6. 2 things here.. (1) I would be concerned about the trany oil leak... if its the torque converter seal, I would make sure the dealer agrees to fix the leak as part of the deal as this repair could be very costly labour wise. I would also take it out on the highway and do a couple of aggressive WOT's to get it to downshift from 6th to 3rd to ensure the shifting is smooth. Most of the valve body issues are usually at highway shifting speeds and wont be detected in low speed city driving. (2) I wouldn't be too afraid of the vehicle has been dealer serviced and has service records to prove all the maintenance. The design of these vehicles is very robust (in comparison to Japanese SUV's) and other than the known issues like the coolant pipes (easy fix) and coils (easy fix) and cardan shaft (easy fix) I don't believe these trucks are problem prone. That being said, it is used so it is a gamble. I would put $3k-5K aside for any unexpected repairs. Other than that, if you like the truck and its in good shape, I would say GO FOR IT!
  7. ahhh.... is that what its for? it looks like it could hold a chip or something similar in size. Anyhow, it caught me off guard because I thought it was a button dud and when I went to touch it, it opened!! LOL thanks
  8. Guys (& gals) I stumbled on this button on the way home today. Its a blank button just above the "repeat" button and below the numbers keypad. When you depress the button it pops out. What is the purpose of this button/pop out???? I searched the owners manual with no luck..
  9. wvicary - thanks for the lead! I will look into it tomorrow
  10. ahh thats too bad... I threw away the old T & pipes... a new one from the dealer is only about $30 so you could buy a new one and take measurements off of it..
  11. thats correct, the plastic T replacement is still the same plastic T and no aluminum upgraded part is available (as far as I know) I suspect that the T failures will likely only be seen on higher mileage vehicles (likely only turbos too because of the additional turbo heat) and Porsche may not be so inclinded to spend the R&D $$$ to make an aluminum replacement. Basically, it wouldn't be cost effective. This would be a great project for someone who has access to a machine shop. Get some T's machined from billet aluminum (a run of 500 parts to start) and sell them over the internet as an "add-on" part for people that still need their coolant pipes upgraded.
  12. Mine was a turbo... Also, according to my friend who is a tech at the dealer, it is possible to replace the T by removing the cat converter and doing it from underneath but its not any easier than removing the intake man and doing from the top.
  13. thanks for the link! I was hoping to find something used but I don't think thats going to happen :)
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