CTTinTO

you would basically be looking for cracks in the bushings. I believe the rear compliance bushing on the front lower arms are hydraulic so another tell tale sign would be oil leaking from the bushing itself. Inspecting the prop shaft center bearing is more or less the same idea. A visual check of the center bearing bushing looking for cracks while pushing the prop shaft up/down & side to side.

Ball joint??? hmmm not likely to cause a vibration IMO. Did you dealer find play with the ball joints? If there was something defective with your ball joints i think you would likely experience other issues like wandering on the road, noises when going over bumps etc... If you (or your dealer) can confidently rule out wheel/tire assy as the culprit of the vibration, I would be looking at brake rotors and driveshafts next... Also, you may want to consider "1 G'ing" your suspension 1 G'ing your suspension is basically loosening and re-torquing all your suspension joints/bushings with the vehicle at its normal ride height to ensure that no suspension bushings are pre-loaded at normal riding height. This is rather difficult to do at home as you really need an alignment rack to get underneath the vehicle. Many dealers when replacing suspension components never tighten bushings at 1 G position and that allows for more vibration to transfer from the suspension through the bushings which would be now preloaded and transfer vibration to the body/steering. Not to mention that the bushing life is compromised since it is always under load rather than in a neutral position when the vehicle is static. The aforementioned technique does wonders on many japanese SUV's and is a common practice in the industry. Hope this helps (somewhat) Mikey

Hey Brit6, Yes I am in Toronto. My dad owns a shop and I work there usually only weekends. Unfortunately, he does not have a road force balancer I referred to in my rant, just a regular balancer. He does have a new Hoffman target based alignment machine that is probably the best on the market currently. If you know anyone that needs alignments... I used to work for an OE, I was a chassis test engineer and was exposed to all this equipment (and more!) and this is where I gained all the knowledge. Thats also where I had an opportunity to spend some seat time with a Cayenne S on the proving ground and was thoroughly impressed. Hence my decision to finally buy one! :) Most dealers will have the Hunter GSP RFBalancer and I hear a few also have the on-car finish balancers I referred to. (some porsche and lexus dealers) I would suggest you call your dealer or tire shop and ask what type of equipment they have before letting them touch your vehicle. Also a brief discussion about road force balancing and static vs. dynamic balance will give you a hint as to whether or not this shop knows their stuff. I'm contemplating in the future opening a small shop that specializes in tires & wheels, alignments and front end/suspension work using state of the art equipment. But this is still a few years away and dependent on my current job and where it may take me. Mike

just a couple of points since I worked 8 years for an OE on working on suspension/steering/nvh problems (1) it is true that many techs do not know how to use the road force balancing machines (2) most dealers do not do a good job of keeping their RFB machines in proper calibration - calibration takes 2 minutes and all you need to do is follow the screen prompts (3) many techs when installing new tires, especially on 18"+ wheels, tend to put too much lubricant to help with the tire install on the wheel. This is great to prevent side wall damage but it poses other problems. Because the lubricant takes some time to dry, it is common for the tire to slip on the w heel. Hence, you may have a good balance but on your first brake application, the wheel moves position and your balance is out the door. (4) most tire machines do not do a good job of seating the tire bead. after driving on the tire, the bead will seat and your original balance will no longer be good. what I am trying to say is that there are many factors in just tire balance alone that can cause issues. I would recommend going to a dealer or tire shop that (1) uses a RFB machine ie: a Hunter GSP9000 or similar (2) request the balancer be calibrated prior to using to balance your wheels (again, this is a 2 minute job and they should be doing this daily anyhow!) (3) inflating the tire to seat the bead, then deflating and re-flating again can help with seating the bead seat properly - also hitting the sidewall with a rubber mallet during inflation helps (4) ask what kind of lubricant is used to install the tire on the wheel - the wax type is best as it dries quick - if they use soap, request that they wipe off all excess soap from the bead before they inflate the tires and seat the bead (5) when balancing, request that they do a "dynamic" balance first but then do a second balance to correct the "static" balance as close as possible to zero finally, if your dealer or independent has a on-car balancer (or finishing balancer) request that they perform an oncar balance. This will yield the best results for vibration as you now are balancing a corner and taking all imbalances into consideration ie: tire, wheel, rotor, driveshaft etc... I hear that Porsche dealerships do have this equipment (Hoffman on-car finish balancer) but I dont know as I have never been to a porsche dealer. I buy all my cars used and do all my own service/repairs. on a side note, when I got my 06' (almost 2 months ago) there was a bit of steering roughness + shimmy and body roughness at hwy speeds. I didnt have time to balance the wheels but I lifted the vehicle, loosened all lug nuts, lowered the vehicle so that all the wheels where *just* touching the ground and I retorqued all wheels using a torque wrench to spec (118ft-lbs) and my vibration was gone after that. I'm guessing the PO (which only serviced his car at the dealer) didnt get the wheels torqued properly. Hope this helps... Mike

Well if the Russians aren't complaining then I guess it should be OK... I'm not concerned about damaging the camera but rather damaging the pop up cover. Only time will tell what happens to it but I will be sure to spray the occasional de-icer in this area to prevent any freezing. Thanks for your input!

Just picked up an 06' Cayenne Turbo with the rear view camera option. I live in Canada and I'm concerned that in the winter, the camera cover may freeze up. Once frozen it wont open and I am afraid of damaging something. Hence, I am wondering if there is anyway to disable the system so I dont have to worry about damaging it in the winter. If there isnt any way, I guess I will track down the fuse and disable it that way... just not sure if the fuse is shared with any other accessories/systems. Any advice?

I've done a quick visual on the bearing and it looks to be OK ie: no cracks The noise also seems to be clearly from the front of the vehicle and can be felt through the accel pedal and steering wheel. What type of noise does the driveshaft center bearing make when it is on its way out? I've never experienced this phenomena but I would assume that the noise would be more like a failing bearing and increase in noise levels with speed combined with some steering/body vibration. My particular car drives extremely smooth at hwy speeds and the noise only seems to happen during initial acceleration. I'm now considering changing the front diff's fluid to see if there is an improvement...

Yep, this noise is a strange one. On a 06' CTT , I've had it for about a month and started to notice this noise a few days into ownership and I am not entirely sure if it is a normal noise or not. At around 1800-2000rpm under load, during a standing start (normal to medium agressive) I hear a noise from the front for about 1-2seconds. Its difficult to describe but its sound somewhat like an erratic squeal. Like a pulley with a slight belt slip. When it happens which is virtually every time I take off from a standing start, I can also feel it vibrate through the accel pedal fairly well when it happens. I've thought of it being either (1) front diff? if its an electronic type diff with clutches it may be a possibility of noisy clutches - I need to do more research in the design of the differentials of the CTT (2) Diverter Valve? it is my understanding that factory units over time fail but what type (if any) noises do they produce when they are pooched? Engine boost as per gauge seems to be normal but it could have a small leak somewhere that might not be easily noticed on the gauge (3) Engine Internally/Turbos? who knows... anyone with experience? Anyhow, just seeing if anyone out there may sound this all familiar...

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=maint&do=maint_menu_cay thanks Loren!

what is the recommended Porsche interval for changing trans & diff fluids?

You can access the CD changer by pressing the CD button again. Since you do not have the CD magazine, you will get a NO CD IN CHANGER (or something similar) error message. Strange.... I don't get an error message... I will have to try again. Does anyone know what brand & model of CD changer CTT's come equipped with? I was hoping to pick up a cheap used magazine of ebay or the likes... Thanks for the feedback!

Hello everyone, its my first post. Just picked up an 06' CTT last week and so far its been a blast to drive. I have a question regarding the stereo. My stereo unit has a "CD" button but not a "CD Changer" button. However, it does have a CD changer in the rear. But, the CD changer is missing the magazine. I can switch from tuner to CD but can't get into anything that is "CD Changer" related. Could this be because the magazine is missing? I drove about a dozen or so Cayenne Turbos before settling on this and I think I recall seeing other cayennes with a "CD Changer" button... Anyone have any insight on this? Thanks, Mike