CTTinTO

I'm with the others.... do the transfer/diff oil changes yourself as it is very easy to do.

As for your shifting problems, in all likelyhood it is indeed your valvebody on the way out. This is a common problem on most cayenne's, especially with your mileage. I believe most dealers are recommended the transmission control unit be replaced. The parts guy at my dealer claimed that they had a newer/updated version available. I talked to a friend at another P dealer and he told me not to bother with the TCU and just change the valve body. He indicated that this would solve all the shifting issues.

Since my harsh shifting from 6th to 4th is somewhat intermittent, I have yet to address/fix the problem and have learned to live with it a little longer.

I am having an indie Porsche repair shop put in a new left rear wheel bearing as mine is going bad. I have talked with the Porsche Dealer/Repair in the area and they said that a alignment($199) must be done after replacing the bearing. However, all the indie repair shops I have spoken with have said this is not necessary. Just wondering what the group thought of this recommendation.

I have a CS MY 2006 btw.

it all depends on how the wheel bearing is replaced. According to the P-car service manual, they recommend leaving the knuckle in place and dropping the rear diff to remove the rear driveshaft. Once the shaft is out, the bearing can be pressed in/out while the knuckle is still on the car. You need a special press tool from Porsche although you could probably make an aftermarket one work as well.

When I did my bearing I chose not to remove the diff and driveshaft. Instead I disconnected all the suspension arms and removed the knuckle. Once out, I used a hydraulic press mounted on a frame to remove/installt he bearing. Because I disconnected the suspension, I did an alignment afterwards.

So if you go witht he first method, an alignment may not be necessary provided the bearing didn't have enough play and you did an alignment recently. Otherwise, just get an alignment done. But not for $200! thats a bit steep, even for a P-car dealer.

your problem is likely the coolant pipes that are underneath the intake manifold (based on the description and cost figures)

I'm not sure of the Cayenne S has the plastic T-pipe like the Turbo's which is an additional source for leak/failure.

w.r.t. the coolant pipes under the manifold, the most complete link with details is here:

My link

have a look and it should get you up to speed. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, it is a reasonable DIY.

Good luck!

airbag exploded?!

why did that happen????

Not cheap but check this out too: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/P15740-1.html

I do believe the valve body can be replaced from the pan without pulling the tranny too.

Awesome! thanks for the info! I'm going to have my CTT up on a hoist Saturday for an oil change so I can check the P/N then but I'm 99.9% positive now it is indeed a TR-60SN.

Thanks for the link on the reman valve body. I will probably do mine at the end of this summer if my problem gets worse. Right now, I rarely experience the harsh downshift, mostly because I avoid that particular driving mode. But either way, I want to do my homework before I take the plunge,

I was surfing some Club Touareg sights and Touareg owners experience the same transmission valve body issues we Cayenne owners do.

Some owners have taken it upon themselves to procure reman valve bodies while others have found repair components.

I found one interesting thread on repair components offered by a company called sonnax (www.sonnax)

Touareg owners are replacing component #4 from this breakdown:

http://www.sonnax.com/downloads/valve-body-layouts/VBL-AWTR-60SN.pdf

apparently the cost is under $300 for the kit + $75 for the installation tool (looks like a guide for the boring)

I figure if a valvebody from the dealer is going to cost me $1500, I might as well first try this repair!?

But I need to know the Aisin model number for the transmission of an 06' Cayenne...

Can anyone help?

2 things here..

(1) I would be concerned about the trany oil leak... if its the torque converter seal, I would make sure the dealer agrees to fix the leak as part of the deal as this repair could be very costly labour wise. I would also take it out on the highway and do a couple of aggressive WOT's to get it to downshift from 6th to 3rd to ensure the shifting is smooth. Most of the valve body issues are usually at highway shifting speeds and wont be detected in low speed city driving.

(2) I wouldn't be too afraid of the vehicle has been dealer serviced and has service records to prove all the maintenance. The design of these vehicles is very robust (in comparison to Japanese SUV's) and other than the known issues like the coolant pipes (easy fix) and coils (easy fix) and cardan shaft (easy fix) I don't believe these trucks are problem prone.

That being said, it is used so it is a gamble. I would put $3k-5K aside for any unexpected repairs. Other than that, if you like the truck and its in good shape, I would say GO FOR IT!

I think you are referring to the drawer made for the sim chip out of a GSM phone to activate the hands free phone system. Good luck finding a GSM service though....

ahhh.... is that what its for? it looks like it could hold a chip or something similar in size.

Anyhow, it caught me off guard because I thought it was a button dud and when I went to touch it, it opened!! LOL

thanks

Guys (& gals)

I stumbled on this button on the way home today. Its a blank button just above the "repeat" button and below the numbers keypad. When you depress the button it pops out.

What is the purpose of this button/pop out????

I searched the owners manual with no luck..

wvicary - thanks for the lead! I will look into it tomorrow

ahh thats too bad... I threw away the old T & pipes...

a new one from the dealer is only about $30 so you could buy a new one and take measurements off of it..

sent PM

thats correct, the plastic T replacement is still the same plastic T and no aluminum upgraded part is available (as far as I know)

I suspect that the T failures will likely only be seen on higher mileage vehicles (likely only turbos too because of the additional turbo heat) and Porsche may not be so inclinded to spend the R&D $$$ to make an aluminum replacement. Basically, it wouldn't be cost effective.

This would be a great project for someone who has access to a machine shop. Get some T's machined from billet aluminum (a run of 500 parts to start) and sell them over the internet as an "add-on" part for people that still need their coolant pipes upgraded.

Gentlemen, Any of you who have experienced/replaced the T Connector 955 106 323 50 on his car, is your car Cayenne S or Turbo?

Many thanks.

Mine was a turbo...

Also, according to my friend who is a tech at the dealer, it is possible to replace the T by removing the cat converter and doing it from underneath but its not any easier than removing the intake man and doing from the top.

thanks for the link!

I was hoping to find something used but I don't think thats going to happen :)

this morning while backing out of my driveway, I forgot it was garbage day! So I ended up reversing straight into my recycling bin and smashed in my rear right tail light.

I've checked all local wreckers with no luck.

Anyone have any leads on where to get a replacement tail light at a good price? If I can't find anything by tomorrow morning, I will have to bite the bullet and buy a new one through the stealer...

948-106-035-51 and 955-106-323-50

They are both T pieces in the same location but different. The one that usually breaks is the one that has the non-removable rubber hoses and metal clamps attached to it, the other is just a plastic T that you connect to. I forget which of the 2 part #s above is the one that makes us look bad on the road but most people say you may as well replace them both while you are back there.

Important to know.. I made the mistake of topping off my coolant with 50-50 "universal" mix and now I have a cracked reservoir.. I dont know if thats why it cracked but I have to replace it anyway and flush the system. Mixing the coolant creates little jello clumps.. And Porsche wants $43 a gallon for their pink stuff :censored:

By the way, I couldnt see the picture above either

Sorry everyone... lets see if this picture link works:

As for the hoses, they are part of the bigger plastic T (uses clamps that are not reusable)

Not sure what the part no. is... I would have to look at the parts invoice. However, I didn't replace the other T because the parts counterperson couldn't find it anywhere. I also had a hard time identifying it PET. I'll have to check out the part numbers faceman posted.

I also don't think the T was updated at all. The hoses and T looked identical to the original parts.

I used the premixed long life coolant - I didn't realize the porsche coolant is different. I'll have to look into this further.

the 323-50 part is what I replaced...

P/N 948-106-035-51 doesn't really look like it incorporates a "T" in the PET catalog. This however was the part we suspected contained the smaller "T'. Either way, it was a Saturday and the dealer didn't stock so I'll take my chances.

The next question would be if the "T" I did replace can be replaced from underneath the vehicle by removing the drivers side cat converter - I think its possible now that I look back... I removed the intake because I couldn't find the leak initially.

I asked my porsche dealer tech buddy who has replaced a couple of these if he ever tried removing the cat converter and replacing the t-pipe from the bottom. He said that he hadn't but has a coworker who has. In the end, it a real PITA either way.

Again, I strongly suggest if you have this pipe and you are doing your other coolant pipes, replace this too and avoid the headaches I and others have had down the road.

I am thinking anyone of you who experienced break of the T connector (955-106-323-50) has European Design engines in your Cayenne which has the T connector pipe.

My CS04 is currently under repair for coolant pipes. I asked my mechanic and he ordered the T connector pipe based on part number, He also check that on the exploded views before he orders that to make sure what part it is... so far so good... when he received the part and he was ready to install it he could not find anything like this behind the engine or around... there was only a Straight Hard Plastic not a T shape one. So he did further research and told me that the European cars have this T connector and not the US Cayennes... designs are different between US and Europe Cayennes.

Do we have anyone here in US who has experienced this problem or proactively has changed this T connector on his Cayenne?

Thanks.

Is this the "T" connector ? http://www.renntech....__1#entry167505

If so, yes, I had it replaced.

Tim in Ft Worth

yep, thats the one in the renntech thread...

948-106-035-51 and 955-106-323-50

They are both T pieces in the same location but different. The one that usually breaks is the one that has the non-removable rubber hoses and metal clamps attached to it, the other is just a plastic T that you connect to. I forget which of the 2 part #s above is the one that makes us look bad on the road but most people say you may as well replace them both while you are back there.

Important to know.. I made the mistake of topping off my coolant with 50-50 "universal" mix and now I have a cracked reservoir.. I dont know if thats why it cracked but I have to replace it anyway and flush the system. Mixing the coolant creates little jello clumps.. And Porsche wants $43 a gallon for their pink stuff :censored:

By the way, I couldnt see the picture above either

Sorry everyone... lets see if this picture link works:

As for the hoses, they are part of the bigger plastic T (uses clamps that are not reusable)

Not sure what the part no. is... I would have to look at the parts invoice. However, I didn't replace the other T because the parts counterperson couldn't find it anywhere. I also had a hard time identifying it PET. I'll have to check out the part numbers faceman posted.

I also don't think the T was updated at all. The hoses and T looked identical to the original parts.

I used the premixed long life coolant - I didn't realize the porsche coolant is different. I'll have to look into this further.

the 323-50 part is what I replaced...

P/N 948-106-035-51 doesn't really look like it incorporates a "T" in the PET catalog. This however was the part we suspected contained the smaller "T'. Either way, it was a Saturday and the dealer didn't stock so I'll take my chances.

The next question would be if the "T" I did replace can be replaced from underneath the vehicle by removing the drivers side cat converter - I think its possible now that I look back... I removed the intake because I couldn't find the leak initially.

948-106-035-51 and 955-106-323-50

They are both T pieces in the same location but different. The one that usually breaks is the one that has the non-removable rubber hoses and metal clamps attached to it, the other is just a plastic T that you connect to. I forget which of the 2 part #s above is the one that makes us look bad on the road but most people say you may as well replace them both while you are back there.

Important to know.. I made the mistake of topping off my coolant with 50-50 "universal" mix and now I have a cracked reservoir.. I dont know if thats why it cracked but I have to replace it anyway and flush the system. Mixing the coolant creates little jello clumps.. And Porsche wants $43 a gallon for their pink stuff :censored:

By the way, I couldnt see the picture above either

Sorry everyone... lets see if this picture link works:

As for the hoses, they are part of the bigger plastic T (uses clamps that are not reusable)

Not sure what the part no. is... I would have to look at the parts invoice. However, I didn't replace the other T because the parts counterperson couldn't find it anywhere. I also had a hard time identifying it PET. I'll have to check out the part numbers faceman posted.

I also don't think the T was updated at all. The hoses and T looked identical to the original parts.

I used the premixed long life coolant - I didn't realize the porsche coolant is different. I'll have to look into this further.

the 323-50 part is what I replaced...

948-106-035-51 and 955-106-323-50

They are both T pieces in the same location but different. The one that usually breaks is the one that has the non-removable rubber hoses and metal clamps attached to it, the other is just a plastic T that you connect to. I forget which of the 2 part #s above is the one that makes us look bad on the road but most people say you may as well replace them both while you are back there.

Important to know.. I made the mistake of topping off my coolant with 50-50 "universal" mix and now I have a cracked reservoir.. I dont know if thats why it cracked but I have to replace it anyway and flush the system. Mixing the coolant creates little jello clumps.. And Porsche wants $43 a gallon for their pink stuff :censored:

By the way, I couldnt see the picture above either

Sorry everyone... lets see if this picture link works:

As for the hoses, they are part of the bigger plastic T (uses clamps that are not reusable)

Not sure what the part no. is... I would have to look at the parts invoice. However, I didn't replace the other T because the parts counterperson couldn't find it anywhere. I also had a hard time identifying it PET. I'll have to check out the part numbers faceman posted.

I also don't think the T was updated at all. The hoses and T looked identical to the original parts.

I used the premixed long life coolant - I didn't realize the porsche coolant is different. I'll have to look into this further.

Hello CTTinTO:

Did you figure out what caused the sound?

Let me explain a similar sound I have on my CS04 which is kind of similar:

Whenever I start the engine and start moving from stand still, after about 20 seconds of driving I hear a squeak sound (maybe more like the sound you hear if you pull a spring and release it, or sound of a mechanical pump pushing a fluid into a device with pressure and very very similar to the sound you would hear when ABS pumps start to react when wheels are sliding on icy road).

The sound comes from front, right side, of the vehicle.

(if the weather is too cold and car starts in D1, the sound never comes out until it moves to D2 and then after 3 seconds being in D2 it is heard, so it is like total time of 20 to 30 seconds after engine start and first move, if weather is warm and I start in D2, it is also heard within 10 to 20 seconds of first move). I Won't hear that anymore, even if I stop, park in P gear, then D and move.

If I turn the engine off and ON again and start from stand still, the sound comes back.

Is that Normal? Any help would be highly appreciated.

sorry Reza but based on your sound description, I don't think your noise is the same as the one I am experiencing.

Btw, went to the dealer on the weekend and picked up the front diff oil - $65 for one litre!!! that is crazy

Bought my 06' CTT about 6 months back and part of the reason was because the coolant pipes had been done one year earlier by the PO.

Well, I was in line Friday for a touches car wash and the next thing I hear is a pssshhhhh followed by a cloud of smoke from the engine compartment. Oh great! had to ask ppl behind me to back up and I basically drove for another minute before the coolant light came on. At that point I pulled over a called for a tow truck to get to the shop. This is the worst feeling, watching ppl drive by you while you wait for a tow. Very embarrassing.

Anyhow, got it to the shop and pressurized the system. I could hear the leak at the rear but there is NO SPACE to see or feel anything. I debated whether or not to remove the drivers side cat but I eventually decided to remove the intake man.

Once the manifold was out, I found the leak at the plastic T behind the engine that has a rubber hose connected to the 3rd (infamous) coolant pipe. The T broken at the flange where the hose was connected where non removable clamps are used. Here is a pick I borrowed from someone else on reenlist:

There was absolutely no space whatsoever to work back there. My hands and arms are all cut and bruised after this fiasco. Went to downtown porsche in Toronto and they claim to never have stocked this part but found one at PFAFF just north of Toronto so I drove up and picked it up for $38 - not bad for a Porsche part!

The worst part was definitely working back there. It probably took me longer to disconnect and reconnect the 3 spring clamps then R&R'ing the intake mani (and this was my first time doing this job)

In the end, I would recommend anyone who is doing the coolant pipe replacement to also take the extra time and replace the plastic T that includes the 3 hoses connected to it for piece of mind. Otherwise, down the road at some point u will be removing the intake manifold to replace the T as well.

I suspect mine may have been disturbed during the original coolant pipe repair. Although I have a small suspicion that the violent downshifts Ive experienced as of late from 6th to 3rd on the highway may have also contributed to the failure. (yes, I also need a trans valve body but I'm waiting until it gets worse before I spend the $$$ since it only does t he violent shift in very specific modes that I can easily avoid in my driving habits)

just read Loren's link - very informative!

from my experience, it is not always brake rotor warpage but brake pad material transfer. ie: pads heat up to the point where they transfer some material onto the rotors therefore changing the runout.

what brake pads are you running?

also from experience, uneven wheel nut torque can cause brake rotor runout problems (also dirty mounting hubs)

sticky brake caliper pistons could cause excessive heat leading to pad mat'l transfer or rotor warpage

just some thoughts...