CTTinTO

noise is still there and hasn't gotten any worse so I've learned to live with it. Its really not that loud except now that I've "tuned" into it, I can hear it every time.

I suspect it may be the front diff as well which is why I plan to change the diff oil at my next oil change interval. I also have a friend that works at the local porsche stealer and he is supposedly the resident Cayenne expert. Hopefully in the spring I can get him to take my CTT for a spin and give me his opinion.

are those Vicotr Equipment wheels? I have the Lemans wheels on my CTT and it uses wheel bolts that are different than the OE's - I beleive its a 17mm head and not a 19mm ohterwise I cant get a socket in to tighten the wheel bolts. What type of wheel bolts are you running?

I wanted to get some spacers for my rear but I havent had much luck sourcing the longer wheel bolts with the smaller 17mm head...

looks nice!

they look like Victor Equipment Lemans wheels....

what spacers you running on the rear?

based on the shipping costs I wouldn't buy it anyhow but I'm a little unsure if it would work anyhow. From what I have read in other threads, not all the head units have the connection at the back for this OE kit (possibly earlier Cayennes have this problem ie: 2004 MY)

Does the Turbo have a different head unit that all support this OE system?

Just curious. Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mike

found this on ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Porsche-Cayenne-factory-pod-adaptor-kit-brand-new-/120676004724?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1c18d9b374#ht_500wt_1156

I have an 06' CTT and my head unit CD player does play .mp3's on CD.... can I believe the seller and assume it will work?

any recommendations?

scanned for codes yesterday and nothing cam up...

on the good side, I haven't experienced the hard shifting since.

looks like the problem may be gone. for now.

Record any faults code and clear, monitor to see if the problem/codes return then start the diagnostic tracing. Be sure to check for any CAN-BUS or charging system/battery faults.

thanks for the tips wvicary

Have you checked for any transmission and engine codes?

The check engine light is not on and no other lights are on the dash either. I will have to scan it this weekend to see if there are any transmission codes.

My friend at the dealer told me that its 99.9% the valve body and is looking into the part cost for me.

I drove it again today and could not duplicate any symptoms so I think I will sit on this one a bit longer before spending $2k+ on a very intermittent problem.

Unlikely that an oil change will help, although i think that in some cases when no error codes are present, which indicates an electrical/mechanical related issue, the problem can caused by a specific type of contamination inside the Tiptronic. There is always a new valve block, filter and oil change procedure performed according to the manufacturer's instructions. I do not know of anyone has experimented with a special cleaning action ATF oil additive.

thanks for the feedback... I drove my CTT again last night and could not duplicate the symptoms. Mind you, it was a fairly short trip so I suspect it may act up when it is hot. I will have to keep an eye on it and report back. I also left a message with a friend of mine who works at the local P dealer. Lets see what kind of recommendations he gives me.

my otherwise super reliable 2006 CTT has finally started to show its true colors...

While on my way back from picking up my parents from the airport, I experienced some real hard (and I mean HARD) shifting from 3rd to 4th gear after downshifting from 6th to 3rd gear. It happened several times and I tried again on my way home and it continued to do it. In any other gear, even under WOT it shifts very smooth and normal through all gears. Just on the freeway when cruising in 6th and flooring the accel pedal to get it to downshift i experience the hard shift getting out of 3rd gear.

I guess my valve body is acting up? I was hoping that this was only a 04'-05' MY problem but I guess not.

Has anyone had any luck with changing the transmission oil and filter?

I have about 112,000kms now so I'm do for a trans fluid flush anyhow...

I meant to update this thread weeks ago after I finally sorted out the winter tire/wheel package.

So here it goes.

I went ahead and purchased a set of (4) 20x9 black GTS-style wheels from OEM Wheel Plus (you can find them on fleabay and on the internet)

All four have an offset of 60ET and the staggared 21x10 wheels on my 08 Turbo were 50ET (front) and 45ET (rear). I wanted to keep the same offset and stock apearence of my Cayenne. So, allow me to pass on what I've learned from the experience:

1) WHEELS - I wanted to go down one tire size for the winter, so I found 20" wheels. While OEM Wheels Plus was good to deal with (prompt shipping and reasonable $800 price for all four), you definately get what you pay for. THey're not terrible and to the untrained eye, they look like perfect GTS wheels. However, I noticed that the inner part pf the wheel does not have the same glossy finish as the outside, nor does the inside of the lugnut recesses. You can't really notice while they're mounted, but would it have killed them to spray the inside of the rim before baking the finish? Also, the centercap Porsche logo is clearly a cheap Chinese label. Again, you can't tell from a curbside impression, but real Porsche crests have a nicer finish. I realize that the company probably cannot legally provide real Porsche crests. Overall, I'd give these wheels a "B" for a grade, but we'll see how I feel after a winter of NewEngland roads and if the first pothole warps them up.

2) SPACERS - The folks at GMP Performance in N.Carolina seem to know thier stuff with Porsches. The sales rep I spoke with (Stephen) took all the time needed to thoroughly understand what I was trying to accomplish before setting me up with H&R Trak Plus spacers (Type DR) and the appropriate longer lugs. The formula I used works perfect and consists of 18mm spacers for the front ($130) and 23mm spacers on the rear ($140). Lugs were another $200. I'd give these guys an "A-" overall. Would have been an "A+" except that two weeks after I ordered the spacers I called to check the status only to find out that they had been backordered - thanks for the notification! Wasn't a big deal this time b/c I was in no hurry, but imagine if I was sitting by the doro waiting for the UPS driver all week. Most importantly, the total track width and look is identical to stock - which is what I wanted.

3) TIRES - Pirelli Scorpions Ice&Snow 275-40-20. (106 load rating - V speed rating). I definately notice that the handling is not as sharp and there is a lot more road noise compared to the P-zero N-Spec tires I was running in the summer. I guess that is the price one has to pay for being safe in the winter. I'll report back at the end of the winter to tell you how the actually performed in the snow.

4) TPMS - After too many hours of research I gave up and had originally called Tire Rack (despite the warnings). The sales rep I spoke with was pretty knoledgeable and I repeatedly advised him that I'd been warned that Tire Rack had send out incorrect sensors in the past, but he assured me that they have learned from their mistakes (he sounded genuine). He offered me two decent choices. First he said they had a pair of "used" sensors for $50/ea, but I figured that I'd rather go for the new BERU units for $99ea (including sensor and stem).

So, after getting all my stuff organized and ordered I scheduled a service with my local Prosche dealer for install and to advise them that a tire/sensor package would be arriving on my behalf. Surprisingly, instead of them squirming about installing Tire Rack stock, they offerd to try to beat their price. I was totally shocked. In my 10 years of experience with this dealership, this was the first time they had ever offered to try to SAVE me money. Sure enough, they were able to get the sensors/stems (and tires) for the same price as Tire Rack. Ironically, the tires themselves came through their wholesale account at Tire Rack.

Of course they boned me for $100/ea for "roadforce balancing" and mounting, but hey, after already spending $1,375 on the wheels, lugs and spacers, I was not about to blow this thing up by takling a chance on incorrect sensors. I think I current sit at about $3,400 all in.

White Cayenne TT w/ Sport Design package, black grill inserts and now with black GTS-style wheels.

I'll post some pictures later, but trust me it looks fantastic.

One intersting note is that after the install I had a bad vibration between 70-85mph. Called the dealer to explain the vibration (fearful that my choice of aftermarket wheels would come back to bite me) and they said give the suspension a chance to "settle" after spending several hours on a lift. Sure enough, the next day after finding astretch of road top open her up to 130mph, the vibration vanished. Although I'm still not totally comfident in the Pirelli Scorpions for extreme driving.

Acat2002 - do you know what length of bolt the sold you for the 23mm spacers?

The Cayenne suspension geometry along with wider "performance" tires makes the Cayenne very sensitive to road crown.

If the vehicle drives straight on flat roads, then you are just experiencing road crown sensitivity and this is just normal.

If your steering wheel is not straight but the vehicle goes straight the you just need a toe adjustment.

I would look at a couple of things:

Tires:

This could be a tire conicity problem. Tires are coned shaped and tend to pull to one side by nature and in the tire industry, this is called conicity. At the factory, tires come in marked from the manufacturer as positive or negative conicity. At the factory they will then mount the tires so that the axle conicity cancels itself out. Sometimes the conicity is so high that it cannot be cancelled out.

The way to check this is to swap front tires left to right and see if the vehicle starts to pull the other way. If it does, then its an axle conicity issue. Unfortunately, the consumer is not provided conicity data so you have to make due with tires you got and essentially guess the best position for each tire through trial and error. Some of the newer hunter RFB machines do measure lateral force and can help pick tires. Sometimes, also inverting a tire on the same wheel (if they are not directional) will invert the tire conicity to make it easier to cancel out the conicity of the tire on the other side.

Alignment

Check your camber split. Ie: the difference between left and right. Camber split = FRcamber - FLcamber.

Example: FRcamber=-0.5deg & FLcamber=-0.2 so camber split is -0.7deg

Typically, since road crowns in north america slope right, you want to keep your camber split negative. For the Japanese OE, we targeted 0deg to -0.5deg camber split and typically ran about -0.35deg split on average for a comparible SUV.

On most alignment machines, they calculate camber split opposite of how I explained so be carefull when you look at the numbers and calculate it for yourself. My above calculation on a Hunter alignment machine would show +0.7deg and not negative. Either way, the key thing is to get the sum of the camber pointing towards the road crown to fight it.

don't go to negative or you will find the vehicle going the opposite way on flat roads.

Hope this helps

Mike

Just go for it, I'm in remote Australia and my 2004 3.2 Cayenne has just done over 200K and get hammered on dirt and rock roads all the time. Never misses a service though and have only had to replace suspension bushes as non service item. Awesome car and awesome engineering. Beats the crap out of the new Discovery III we had that had over 14 warrenty issues in the first 11 months. :drive:

I'll vouch for the quality and engineering of these vehicles. I used to be a test engineer for a Japanese competitor and the Cayenne is was one of our benchmarks for our luxury SUV and the Cayenne was a far superior vehicle at that time. The general consensus was that the Cayenne was "over" engineered which to me will translate to longevity.

I would agree with most that if maintained regularly, there is no reason you cannot get at least 300k to 400k.

Keep it.

Front -- A is camber -- B is caster

Rear -- A is camber

awesome Loren - thanks for the clarification...

For the rear, both lower arms (on one side) have eccentric bolts. If you adjust both, you adjust camber. If you adjust one, you only affect your toe.

For the front, I found eccentric bolts at the upper arm to body connections.

Remember that you always adjust camber first and then toe. Camber change will majorly impact toe while a change in toe will minimally impact camber.

I have an 06' CTT and camber is adjustable at the front and rear - I'm 99% certain the case is the same for a Cayenne S

Chances are the indy didn't know much about alignments or the Cayenne for that matter. Find a good alignment shop, preferably a shop that has "target" type alignment machine. ie: an alignment machine that is constantly taking pictures of the heads mounted on the wheels. Much more accurate than the old school laser types.

A good alignment shop will know what you are talking about when you ask.

I am going to guess your side walls are shot

All very thoughtful replies.

So far, I have had the following done.

Had the balancing done. Re-alignment done. I also had the road balance done yesterday. No effect.

I took it to the dealer today, they checked all the shafts, nothing obvious. They have kept the car overnight since it tends to do this much more so in the mornings.

Funny thing is, I notice it a lot more on cemented surfaces than tar roads. I dont know why. and especially when turning right. Now that the wheels have been rotated, I feel the problem is travelling with the tire. The weirdest part is that the milege has dropped to 12 or so. So I know something is definitely wrong. The car doesnt quite coast anymore, and it feels like there is a lot more drag on it than normal.

If they cannot find anything tomorrow, I am going to ask Michelin for help and see if they offer anything. The tires are about 4000 miles old, so really there is no problem there, unless it is something inside one of them.

Really weird problem and makes me so not enjoy the drive that I used to. Any other ideas?

does the "wobble" go away after some driving?

If these tires are relatively new to you, it could be that they are flat spotting over night. Michelin has had issues with flat spotting when tire diameters started increasing and in 06' developed a flat spotting spec/test. This spec of course is not very stringent and is highly dependent on the sensitivity of the vehicle they are going on. We all know that Cayenne's are very sensitive to tire inputs...

Perhaps you could try bumping up your tire pressure for one day (to max indicated on the sidewall) and check the next day after parking overnight to see if the wobble still exists.

Generally when people talk about a "wobble" in Cayennes, it's the cardan shaft, not the wheels or tires. Have you considered this possibility, or are you certain that it is coming from the wheels or tires?

I would think its a driveshaft issue as well and not necessarily wheel balance. Wheel imbalance wouldn't cause a "wobble" unless it was REALLY bad and and the bad wheel assy would need to be on the front axle. In the rear, regardless of static or dynamic imbalance on the wheel assembly, it will only be felt as a high frequency vibration on the body and steering wheel but not shimmy which is sometimes described as a "wobble".

The only other thing I can think of is a damaged wheel bore or improperly centered wheel.

I have a pair that came off an '06 S.

What's "reasonable"?

I'm located in No. Illinois and will ship them.

the cats are yours - you tell me what is reasonable...

I plan to gut them :)

Most likely I will gut my own... I also have a local lead on a used set for $100...

for all of you out there that have converted to the cat by-pass pipes, is anyone interested in selling their OE cat's at a reasonable price?

Hi Everyone,

I hope that you are all well. Been a long time since I've been on here!

I'm having a bit of a strange issue that I haven't been able to find any information on.

Up until about 2 hours ago I was able to open my trunk from the trunk release and the trunk would raise up and stay raised up. After a 25 minute drive back home, when I re-opened the trunk lid again at the trunk release, the trunk would not stay "locked" in it's open position.

After a few seconds the lid would gently start to fall back towards it's close position before slamming shut. Not very safe!

Any thoughts on whether this is a fuse issue? Or is this to do with the gas cylinders?

I had the car totally stripped out and resprayed in Speed Yellow (from stock white!) a couple of months ago. This may just be a potential issue from that work.

You're thoughts would be much appreciated!

Regards,

Omar

sounds like you need to replace the struts...

+1 especially in the cold

Unfortunately (or fortunately) the battery was replaced early this year so I suspect that isnt the culprit.

Thanks for the input though!

anyone else?

The weather is now getting colder and I'm finding that in the morning when I start my 06' CTT, the instrument panel lighting takes like 10-15seconds to illuminate.

Temperature this morning was around 5deg celcius and the same thing happpend.

Has anyone ever experienced this?

I was thinking that perhaps this has something to do with the headlights being in auto but I've already played around with the headlight switch in different positions and found no improvement.

Anyhow, just wondering your thoughts on this.

Mike

So after researching the honking noise I am experiencing when light - medium accelerating from stop, I'm pretty sure my problem lies with the diverter valves.

I notice that my boost gauge hits about 0.7bar a WOT but quickly backs off and hovers around 0.5bar. As it shifts through gears it never hits 0.7bar again other than when launching in 2nd gear.

I also notice that during hard acceleration there seems to be a slight hesitation - very minimal but once you tune into it, you can easily notice it.

Can anyone confirm if they experienced similar symptoms when the DV's went?

Also, whats the consensus on the best replacement DV's? WHats the best bang for hte buck? Audi TT plastic OE's or some billet aftermarket ones? I was contemplating ordering the billet ones offered by Suncoast....

the noise is related to the rotation of the wheels its like every half turn of the wheel it will come till it disappears.

the faster the wheels goes the faster the noise comes but around after the speed of 80 KM it will go.

My car done 119K K/M

sounds like the noise I have on my 06' CTT

did you ever find out what hte noise on yours was???