Sboxin

der Geist has a good review of Ksport coilovers at this site:

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?...=90017#poststop

Several have said they like them.

Ed

Alignment and ABS/PSM light -- Just added info on this issue...there is a sensor on the steering shaft that turns off the ABS/PSM when the toe is really bad. We just had this occur on a 986S. The Indi found the sensor and after the alignment reset the ABS/PSM...no problem for 2 weeks now.

biomech - did your light get turned off after the alignment?

Ed (Arizona) :cheers:

Hi All,

Had something strange happen this morning while driving to work.

First, I have a low mileage 01' 996 C2 (roughly 28K) which currently also has both PSM off and ABS lights on due to a bad MAF sensor. They've been on for a couple weeks now and I just haven't a chance to replace it yet.

I have about a 30 mile commute to work and during the drive this morning, I felt some uncontrolled swaying of the car while driving on the freeway between 60 and 80 MPH. At times, it felt as if there was a really high wind blowing against the side of the car pushing it around. Almost felt like a lost of traction or driving on a really wet road :o . Could this be a cause of the PSM being off? I checked all the tires and wheels and they all looked normal. The roads, freeways and weather were normal and shouldn't play into the cause.

Thanks in advance for any insight or opinions.

The part number may be 986.424.041.07 == $165.18

This is for the cables and ends as shown in PET6 parts diagram.

Someone else will need to address the seperate parts issue.

You might want to call Sunset in Oregon or Suncoast in Florida for good parts info.

Ed

ps: also, are you sure it broke and not just came loose from the clamp that

holds the cable housing? I can't tell from the photo...

While my wife was driving home the other day the gear shift lever went slack when moving side to side and she was only able to select 3rd or 4th gear. Since she was close to home she limped the car home.

After a quick inspection I was able to find the cause of the problem, a failed end on a linkage on the transmission (see photo). I called the local dealer today and was told the linkage and cable must be replaced together, cost of parts alone $750.

Please tell me this is not the case. Can anyone confirm it is possible to replace just the linkage and if so what the part no. may be?

Car is a 97 2.5

can i have a part no.? can i do it myself?

Do the 18 pin hack = pull the top relay and bend over pin 18 and replace...problem solved!

(relay is the biggest above the fuse panel)

Finally got the cooler installed ...

The attached Word Doc gives the basic information

The reason for this addition is a failed power steering return line plastic clip, lost

fluid all over engine(smoke, black flag, etc.), failed PS pump ($1000 repair)

This failure was due to track DE and AX on 02S with big rubber (245&285 KUMHO V710's)and H&R lowering springs. Several drivers in California have experienced this same thing. The high stress on the steering rack causes higher than normal fluid temperatures that melt the plactic clip on the return line at the back of the pump.

Some has had fluid leaks at other fluid line connecters. Also, another solution has been installed in Caymen race cars in Canada -- an undersize driveshaft pulley to reduce pump RPM.

My son and I like to drive fast and can keep up with most of the faster Porsches

on the track with our setup. Now, we won't have to worry about the PS failure happening again.

Comments or questions are welcome (flame suit is on)

Ed

Power_Steering_Return_Line_Cooler.pdf

Smoke = air oil seperator failure

Squeak = vacuum leak (along with above), or water pump bushing failure

High coolant temp = agree, clean radiators, check water pump and fluid level

IMHO of course,

Ed

Yes, a hard clutch pedal can indicate worn clutch disk.

We DIY at 48K on 02S -- found disk worn down to rivets, just in time repair.

Previously we replaced the helper spring and made no difference in pedal effort.

After disk replace pedal effort is less by about half, but still more than a new one on

the showroom.

Ed

Further update. Console out, no foreign objects, bushes all WD40ed and greased, still no great improvement. Finally took off the blue cable from the bottom of the gear shift and found the gear shift moved easily! Still think it is the cable but, as per suggestions above, I suppose I should check the trans end of the gear linkage next? Anyone got a photo of what I'm looking for please, and is it easy to access (v.cold up here at moment!) Thanks.

Photo of Trans cable linkage attached

Check the connections where the arrows point

Use ramps to lift car or jack W/jackstands on passenger side

Good luck,

Ed

i have a 98 2.5L that just hit 60k miles

while i was cleaning the engine bay i foind some oil buildut kinda stuff around the J-tube(i have a picture back home, i will post that up when i get back). my Q is this, where is the best place to get the seperator and possible part number, also for the hose as well, and how hard is this to DIY (i saw the writeup for a carrera but no boxster).

if i am correct i shoul dbe getting a lot of smoke, but none so far, i just wanna tackle this before it actually goes bad, and since i saw some trouble on surface i think it may be going bad soon, correct?

i found on this site one for $81. does that sound too cheap? anyone have any experience with this distributor?

http://www.prostreetonline.com/catalog/por...r/oilseparator/

where can i get the J-tube? thx

I see CJ posted with good stuff too...

The ProStreet parts place looks OK -- haven't used them before.

I use "Autohausaz.com" here in Phoenix for the maintenance parts they carry for the Boxster.

Try this Porsche site for the parts catalog:

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/VFMod...pe=MainFrameSet

IMO -- I would call and get to know the guys at Sunset in Oregon to order factory parts. They have been helpful to me in the past.

Also, you might think about just cleaning the AOS connections and hoses and replacing the clamps to prevent oil leaks. The 'bellows' is also a part that fails and should be checked.

You sound like an eager beaver to catch and fix things before they fail -- but there are SO MANY parts to look at... :o

Good luck,

Ed

Dave's new wheels with 18MM spacer on rear.

Looks great!

Ed

You might ask the seller to change the wheels for you to get the 18's --

most dealers do this all the time.

Congratulations!

Ed

definately Red !

Our Cobalt 02S looks great with the Red calipers -- and now red H&R

springs to match

The color really does show up through the wheel when viewing from

the side traveling down the road.

IMHO - silver blends in with the rotor too much, yellow looks too bright

on a Blue car, body color match blends in also -- therefore Red is the

correct color and Porsche chose it for the S to be distinctive and show

through the wheel when turning, maybe like the fire hot brakes in the

dark, eh?

Anyway, good luck on the paint job,

Ed

...nik's part number is the 'bellows' connected to the oil separator...

hope this helps someone...probably me in the future <_<

Ed :cheers:

I want to buy a set of wheels for the track to do DE's and the like but I don't want to spend $3.5k doing it. Any suggestions on where to get wheels? Are there other Porsche wheels that will fit the 987?

that auction site e...something...

We were successful for under $700 for older TT Porsche wheels and use spacers to make the offset right -- light weight great track wheels for race rubber.

Good luck,

Ed

The wheel removal guide is part number: 999-571-074-30

Price is about $9

:cheers:

Tire/wheel balance is the right answer !!!

Vibration=balance

Pull/tire wear=alignment

IMHO of course

AND, don't take it to some cheap shop for the balance they really don't do high speed for the Porsches

AND, tires make a LOT of difference on the Porsche IMHO

Ed

Glad the wife and dog are fine -- air bag or not?

I am in the DV process now (accident on 1/1/06). Lawyer says it takes 6-9 for litigation, but hope to get more than the allsnake 2500 offer they made after my appraisal of 11K DV (40% of retail value). Boxster front damage and frame work also.

The car actually looks a lot better because of the repainted front than before the damage.

There are other experiences reported on the Web boards of not using a lawyer and getting the insurance company to pay about half of the real DV by pressure technics (letter to other driver , cc to insurance, about suit pending if HE didn't pay the DV, etc.)

Our lawyer does only personal injury and auto claims including DV. This is a new area for litigation and our guy seems to have decided to pursue the DV claims for a 40% fee. If I get more than 2500 and set a precedent here in AZ I will be satisfied. This lawyer works in other states too, if you would like a name send an Email.

Good luck,

Ed

Hi,

It's time for a new set of tires. After reviewing previous threads and the driving condition I have, probably will go for Sumi HTR ZII (not decided yet, just compare price and value). I live in So. Cal with MY03 C2 coupe, never go to track before, daily street drive. Anyone has a bad experience about it? Or any better tire suggestion? Thanks in advance.

From Tool Pants influence we have had this tire on an 02 Boxster S for about 6 months here in Phoenix. It is soft enough for very good traction in the dry and the tread looks to be good in the wet too. They are quiet and better than the TOYO they replaced. We upsized the fronts to 225 and get better handling at the autocrosses and PCA DE track. Also, we used Tire Rack and are pleased with their service and prices.

Next for us will be Michelin for the track -- if you can spare the dime I would suggest you go to them now.

Ed

Thanks Andy for the great work you did documenting this project :clapping:

No doubt a lot of owners will be using this in the future.

Ed

What are the options on this car - lights, seats, Bose, mods, wheels/tires, etc.? This helps determine some of the price, but not much. Is the condition A+ , besides the rear window? Where is the car located? Did you do a check on accidents for diminished value through an insurance company database?

These factors all affect price -- maybe that's why no one has responded to your question. Price could be $15K to $30K -- a big range.

Best person to answer this is mikefocke on the PPBB board.

Ed

Thanks for all the info and insight guys! I really appreciate it! I'm thinking about settling out around the 2002 model, S if i can find the right one for the right price, though non-s would be fine too. Luckily, there's only a few colors I don't really want, like yellow, red, and blue. So that leaves me a lot of options out there for the Blacks, Whites, Greys and Silvers! But, I'll keep looking around, even though I can't wait to be the proud new owner of one. Do any of you guys have a location to find the list of TSBs, so I can see if a boxster I'm considering has completed most of em!

Aaron

The TSB page can be seen if you contribute to renntech.org

or >> you could take your selected Boxster to a dealer for the PPI and ask them to take care of this step for you.

Good luck, you seem to be doing your research well!

Ed

I have a MY00 with the SSR GT2 rims, they are a 5 spoke open style 3 piece rim. I have a silver car, with color matched rims. I have changed out the side maker lights etc. I was going for that Mono color look.

BUT...

I thought that I might paint the brakes bright red. I think that would really set of the car. Is this DIY project or should I have a shop do it? Next how do I get the Porsche logo back on there. I will do a photo log of this project and post it if anybody can point me in the right dir.

Thank guys

This thread has the info you need to do the job - DIY of course.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6148&hl=

Good luck,

Ed

Great post -- Going to 15W50 also!

Just in time for our first DIY oil change here in 100+ land for '02S, 50K+miles.

Thanks, :clapping:

Ed (Arizona)

Wow, no one wants to answer this question :D

The answer is NO -- don't take it to AA*** unless you know the technician personally or he is your brother-in-law.

Find and indy shop recommended by a Porsche owner or PCA member or RennTech member with experience. You will save a few $$ with the indy shop.

Or, you could DIY and save big $$$

Take care,

Ed (Arizona)

IMHO - you will find in the end of all that is said...a new clutch will fix your problem.

The stiff pedal is the first sign of needing to replace the clutch disk before the disk is worn to the point of damaging the flywheel. A slipping clutch is a symptom that the disk has worn past the disk material and onto the rivets (where it proceeds to damage the flywheel). You may save yourself some $$ by replacing the disk now rather than later.

Take care,

Ed (Arizona)