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Sboxin

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About Sboxin

  • Rank
    Contributing Member
  • Birthday 12/27/1943

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Family, Porsche, Golf, Computers, Retirement !

Profile Fields

  • From
    Phoenix
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Boxster S
    2000 Expedition
  • Future cars
    Track Car - 911 Red - Now Son has 1978 911 track only car UPS brown w/3.2 upgrade
  • Former cars
    1958 356A Coupe bought w/blown engine DIY rebuild
    1972 914 Blue/Blk bought new
    1972 911 T Aubergine bought 5 years old
  1. Alignment toe adjustment -- find a really good Porsche alignment shop, may be dealer, may be not... Over 20 years ago I found a very old guy in Kentucky who told me he could align a wheelbarrow - so I gave him a chance and he did a great job on a '72 991T ...sometimes you need to talk to a lot of different people to find the right tech for the particular job...
  2. Left is for engine intake and right is for engine compartment vent fan exhaust ...
  3. You might want to look at trygve instructions here: Boxster brake pad R/R Take care, :cheers: Roy T
  4. Steve, You might want to send a message directly to Tholyoak, OR, search his posts on engine swaps. As far as I can recall, he is the most experienced on the Boxster swaps. Take care, Roy T or Ed(Arizona) on PPBB
  5. You might want to replace the thermostat while you are in that area. There are some good pics and instructions out there somewhere -- I just did mine at 75K. You can also drain the coolant into clean tubs and reuse if it is still clear/not contaminated. Note: there is a LOT of coolant - but by clamping the big hose to the thermostat you can keep a lot in the car. I'll go look for the instructions/pics... Edit: found this for 996 -- very similar to 986 and this is what I used http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/ Pay attention to the bolt lengths as you remove them - there are two longer ones that need to go back in the same holes. Take care, :cheers: Roy T Phoenix
  6. The 11" rear will NOT fit, so you have chosen the right one with the Italias (8 and 9.5). The actual wheel "offset" number is needed to determine what spacer you might want to use to bring the tire out closer to the fender for a fuller look. There are several offset calculators around, this is an example : https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html The tire size you have chosen will work also. Enjoy! :cheers: Ed Pic - Rear BBS 18x10 45MM offset 285/35/18 Tires
  7. On the issue of left side vs. right side: We also had this and ended up reducing an 18MM spacer to 16.5 to fit the 18" wheel and 285 tire just on the left side. In addition both side fenders were rolled. Also, the car had H&R springs and maximum camber -- a really tight fit. On the issue of offset: We have 63MM offset wheels with 18MM spacer making it 45MM offset on the right side, and 63-16.5=46.5 on the left side. IMHO each car can be slightly different by a millimeter or two and this can make a difference in tire rub when we are trying to get maximum tire size under the fender and not rub the damper or spring. Take care and :cheers: Ed
  8. How so? It's a Macpherson strut, and it's nearly vertical (castor is fixed at 7.7°). It may add a small amount of toe-out when camber is moved negative as the strut tilts slightly towards the back of the car, but gaining toe-out for a race is desirable, too. What else would be impacted? I've never attempted to change my alignment, and never watched anyone do it. I know a lot of things look easy, but are anything but in practice. Hypothetical: I get a street alignment, and mark the position with a sharpie. Before a race, I loosen the 3 bolts... and just push the top of the shock mount in along the adjustment slots? How does that work, are there any special tools or do I just put pressure on the socket/tire to slide it? Afterwards, do I have a reasonable chance of returning the bolts to the marked street alignment position? Even a half-assed attempt at returning the camber to 0° should be better for my tires than driving around all year with the alignment 1° off whack. We have done this front camber adjustment just fine - no problems. You need to lift the wheel off the ground and use a large screw driver to move the top of the shock - put it in the hole and push shock toward the inside for increased camber. Yes, mark with a sharpie the original position of the bolts. Its a 5 minute job at the track. Take care :cheers: Ed
  9. "When I dropped off at Redmond European he said by looking at dipstick he didint see any water. Its obvious theres oil in the antifreeze though." Question: Did you drive the car from one place to the other?? Does it run and not smoke?? Ed :cheers: juniinc: What do you know about Redmonds?
  10. When I dropped off at Redmond European he said by looking at dipstick he didint see any water. Its obvious theres oil in the antifreeze though. When you say cracked cylinder liner do you mean block or head ? or did you mean a piston? I was told by a shop if it was head cracked it would be a 3000 part and about 3k in labor. Head gasket about 3 grand for all. The place its at now would rather drop the engine to work on it since he says thye come out pretty easy and the time it would take to try and do it through the top might just equal out due to it being harder to work on in the car? I dont know this place had a bunch of porsches there which helps the comfort level and only 2 audis that I saw. He alos said that he has never seen a block crack on anything but 98 and 99 so never on an 01. My fingers are crossed its not the block. Woody, ...not the piston...either crack in the cylinder (which is part of the 'crankcase') or head, or the gasket between. DJ says they can do a coolant pressure test and locate where the coolant is going (you said you added some over the past 2 weeks). You can see the engine diagrams at Pelican ( http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLookup/HT...-00-Frame4.htm) IIWM -- I wouldn't let them take the engine out of the car ($$$) until they give you a correct diagnosis!! Ed
  11. Woody, I spoke to our Indi tech -- most likely cracked cylinder, head, or gasket rather than oil/coolant cooler -- BUT, all these can be tested to determine the right failure. It sounds like Redmonds will do the tests for you and determine the correct failure. Our guy has replaced 3 Boxster engines with wrecking yard products with success (so far). Be sure the supplier does a leak down test and the installer replicates the leak down numbers. Even with that there can be some problems if the previous engine has been mistreated and overheated (DJ had one (not a Boxster) come apart on the Dyno and blew oil and coolant everywhere :-)) If you were the original owner PCNA might do something to help you (like pay half on the rebuilt engine), but I have heard they are hesitant on 2nd, 3rd owners because of the lack of service documentation. With under 50K miles it is a shame for this to happen to you. This particular engine design is becoming notorious :censored: If we still have ours when the engine goes I will be putting in a 3.6 and make a fun DE car. Or, maybe just sell the house and buy a 2009 997. :D Keep in touch, :cheers: Ed
  12. You are getting good feedback on your engine problem. Further testing/checking of the "oil cooler" sounds like a good route to take. I hadn't thought of it, but it does make sense. I was waiting for your follow up reply to talk to our Indi here in Phoenix about your problem -- I'll do that in the AM -- DJ is good at diagnostics. I'll let you know what he says. The reviews I see about Autohaus Vick are mixed but with 73% Good ratings. The consensus is "Expensive". I guess I don't know what a "Bosch Certified Tech" is??? I'm glad you talked to Sunset Auto in Portland. If I were in your shoes I might arrange to take the Boxster down there, just for the peace of mind. I will continue to research Seattle area shops through the other Boxster forums (PPBB, etc.) FYI, I learned a long time ago to seek out the BEST resource you can find in a reasonable geographic area to solve your problems (ours was a son's medical situation living in a small town) -- don't settle for less. More later, Take care, Ed Ed (Arizona) on PPBB you can see our profile...
  13. "I dont have time due to urgency of getting it fixed as quick as possible..." So...you have had this car for a month. Is it your daily driver to commute to work, etc? Its a shame this is all happening while you are trying to get married (on the East coast too) Who did you buy it from - dealer, private, other? Is there any 30, 60, 90 day warranty? Who is the mechanic or shop that is currently working on your car - Porsche dealer, Porsche Indi, other? "You definately have an engine problem, but the solution may be easier than some are telling you. As Chris has said, this could be a head gasket or a cracked head (both let coolant into the oil and/or cylinder). Porsche dealers now have the OK from PCNA to repair Boxster engines - this means they can get parts to do the repair. Dealers repair cost is usually higher than Independent repair facilities, but they access to more Porsche resources, training etc. Personally I found an excellent Indi to work on our 02 S. Finding a good Indi shop takes time and research. A call to a PCA Board member in your Region would help you a lot. Loren said: "You might want to talk to another shop." Loren has the best advice on this Forum! Click on "Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost" to get Sunset Auto phone number. Let us know how we can help? Take care, Ed
  14. Since you are in Seattle...you might want to call Sunset in Portland to discuss your engine options. An engine with warranty would seem to make sense in this situation. There several bad engine sales stories from #bay -- need to be very careful of a "used" engine or even one that is advertised as new from a source you don't know. Let us know if there is anyway someone one this or other Boxster forums can help you -- there are Boxster people in Seattle. You just need to ask, and be very specific on the information you provide :) Take care, Ed
  15. Bob, Don't panic...but this one is a stumper...never heard this problem before :huh: IIWM - I would wait for another occurance of the thumping and then check further for failed parts or functions. You might have just scared an animal under the car or some other weird thing happened, not related to the car itself. Take care, Ed PS: I answered because no one else did :cheers:
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