DaveCarrera4S

is there any source for switched power in the engine bay?

Progress - Think I found that the blue connector may be the problem... found here: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...nt#entry262178

Dredging up an old related thread... I disconnected and reconnected my '02 turbo cluster several times today trying to get it to work. At this point warning lights and central warning LED work, but no turn signal indicators or bright light indicator. The central warning is cycling between all fluid levels with errors. Wonder which connector is responsible for turn signal, bright indicator and gauges? Is there some reset one has to go through when disconnecting the battery and reconnecting the cluster?? And now for something completely different: When I removed the cluster, to my surprise the row of lights along the bottom have two cabriolet warning lights. No spoiler error lights as shown in the manual picture; item N. Could my cluster have been replaced by a prior owner? Could it be a Boxster cluster??? The vintage of the cluster matches the age of the car. But, there were no turbo Cabs in '02. I believe I have all the records for the car - need to go back and see if there was ever a cluster issue, as all work was done by a dealer. Could Porsche have run short on clusters the day my car was coming down the line, so Uwe ran over to the the Boxster parts bin for a cluster!!?? What a cluster today has been...

good idea u4s. I'll try both with ohm meter. Would really like it working for a pending 2 day work out at the track!

Ok, drove home from work yesterday 22 miles - freeway 80 mph plus, hot out 90 F. Fan not running when I pulled into garage, but later my wife asked if I left the car running in the garage. I jumped up to find the fan whirring away. So I guess it works, at least with the temp sensor over the engine. Strange though that I have both fuses in the fusebox. I thought with both, the fan comes on after 1 sec with ignition on - fuel pump running.

Look in your fuse box. Look at fuse #5A. If it is missing or blown, the cars fan will come on only when the engine gets hot. If the fuse is in there and good, it will turn on when the car is started.I haven't figured out why some cars have the fuse and some don't, but it seems that the different cars from different areas are set up differently. My best guess is that maybe if the car is from a colder area, the fuse is pulled. I would imagine if the car sat parked and snow got packed in the fan preventing it from spinning, that could be a bad thing. Those cars are probably set up to warm up and melt the snow, then spin the fan. Not sure, but that's my best educated guess. I will check the fuses. The engine lid light also is sporadic in operation. The light is a whole other issue. That is most likely one of a few things. I would start with the bulb and check that it's not on it's way out (maybe even change it just to be sure. Sometimes a bulb won't look bad when it actually is. It's cheap insurance). I would also make sure that the wiring harness is plugged in tightly (It's the same harness for the fan, spoiler and light), it's plugged in on the passenger side on the inside of the right rear fender. If it's not either of those, It may be a flaky switch (I think it's incorporated in the lock mechanism, but not sure because I didn't look).Please let us know how you make out. Here is the result of the light. The double wire was sliced through clean about 1" from the connector. Why? No frickin idea. stripped the wires back and put a wire connector between each - works like a charm... Now back to the fan issue. That's great news that it's something simple! Now I wonder why it's cut? Is it possible that the light was staying on and the prior owner just cut it (instead of fixing it properly) so it didn't kill the battery? No, as it was working intermittently for me before it finally quit. I think the wires must have been sheared off by the electric lock mechanism some how.

As many of you know, I've started a company to sell electric spoiler ram (eRams) kits for the 996 and 997 turbos - replacing the finicky yet over-engineered hydraulic system. It does away with all hydraulics. Anyhow, I'm playing with the logic that was ultimately programmed into the ECU. I'm wondering if there is a way to get the logic from Porsche? Or perhaps someone here has some better insight? At this point it seems to me as something like this: To raise wing: 1. Momentary push of switch or cluster speedo (75 MPH) signal to ECU to raise spoiler. 2. ECU send current to relay 1 coil which activates motor in one direction. 3. Wing travels up and closed circuit from top limit switch (passenger side ram on top) within ~14 seconds. If no limit switch contact - then WARNING at cluster. ALSO...Wing will not go down either by switch or cluster speedo (37 MPG) signal from ECU to lower spoiler. Similarly to lower wing: 1. ONLY for cluster speedo (37 MPH) signal to ECU to lower spoiler. 2. ECU send signal to relay 2 coil which activates motor in other direction. 3. Wing travels down and closed circuit from bottom limit switch (passenger side ram on bottom) within ??? seconds. **this is different than "UP" as the push to lower switch can be let go at some point before the wing is fully down. Therefor the time-out counter only works with the speedo signal... If no bottom limit switch contact - then WARNING at cluster Not sure if the wing will go up "at next signal to raise" unless fault is cleared (cycle key off). Any info out there?? I'm also wondering if there was a logic change between '01 and '02 model years. There seems to be two wiring diagrams out there for them.

Look in your fuse box. Look at fuse #5A. If it is missing or blown, the cars fan will come on only when the engine gets hot. If the fuse is in there and good, it will turn on when the car is started.I haven't figured out why some cars have the fuse and some don't, but it seems that the different cars from different areas are set up differently. My best guess is that maybe if the car is from a colder area, the fuse is pulled. I would imagine if the car sat parked and snow got packed in the fan preventing it from spinning, that could be a bad thing. Those cars are probably set up to warm up and melt the snow, then spin the fan. Not sure, but that's my best educated guess. I will check the fuses. The engine lid light also is sporadic in operation. The light is a whole other issue. That is most likely one of a few things. I would start with the bulb and check that it's not on it's way out (maybe even change it just to be sure. Sometimes a bulb won't look bad when it actually is. It's cheap insurance). I would also make sure that the wiring harness is plugged in tightly (It's the same harness for the fan, spoiler and light), it's plugged in on the passenger side on the inside of the right rear fender. If it's not either of those, It may be a flaky switch (I think it's incorporated in the lock mechanism, but not sure because I didn't look). Please let us know how you make out. Here is the result of the light. The double wire was sliced through clean about 1" from the connector. Why? No frickin idea. stripped the wires back and put a wire connector between each - works like a charm... Now back to the fan issue.

Reserecting an old thread. My fan doesn't seem to run at all. I've been reading about it on various threads. Seems the fuse for the "always on at low speed" is optional. I checked and have both fuses and both seem fine. Not sure why I have an issue. Headed to the track and want to make sure it is working.

Cannot get Bluetooth to work. Tried all manner of things. No Bluetooth soft key. Anyone offer some help? I don't have PCM, standard sound system, CDR30. I don't care about music. I want to pair my Samsung S4 phone and use it for calls. The CDR30 manual states: > Press the PHONE button. (did that) If Bluetooth is deactivated then Bluetooth must be switched on: > If necessary, press the Bluetooth SoftKey to activate Bluetooth. (I don't see the BT softkey) My window sticker states: Bluetooth Interface for Mobile $695. STUMPED...

Thanks Loren. I searched for an hour, but used "bulb" instead of "bulbs". Ugh

Armed with JFP's pics I had a look under the car while it was in for an oil change. Sure enough minimal dried pink crust around the drain plug. No more worries. Gonna drive it like I stole it at the track.

the bulb for the spoiler warning lamp is blown. I'd like to order or find a new bulb before pulling the gauge cluster out. Anybody know the bulb type? Easy to change once the cluster is pulled?

Look in your fuse box. Look at fuse #5A. If it is missing or blown, the cars fan will come on only when the engine gets hot. If the fuse is in there and good, it will turn on when the car is started.I haven't figured out why some cars have the fuse and some don't, but it seems that the different cars from different areas are set up differently. My best guess is that maybe if the car is from a colder area, the fuse is pulled. I would imagine if the car sat parked and snow got packed in the fan preventing it from spinning, that could be a bad thing. Those cars are probably set up to warm up and melt the snow, then spin the fan. Not sure, but that's my best educated guess. I will check the fuses. The engine lid light also is sporadic in operation.

Jeff, you ARE the man. this is a perfect explanation. Many thanks, need to jack up the 987.2 and look at it myself.

Any thoughts on how dried coolant on a drain plug at the water pump equates to impending failure?

Thanks. I need to see this myself.

on my '09 CS, the tech told me there were two things to watch. Slight oil seep on cam end plug, not a drip, and dried coolant around a drain at or near water pump?? I did not see these. There is nothing on the floor under the car. Any concerns I should be aware of? What is involved in repairs?

Anybody tried these? http://jackpointjackstands.com/. They look nice. 4 of them would lift the whole car up of the ground, though only 12". They are expensive.

My fan does not come on with the key in the on position. It's an '02 turbo. Wonder if the ECU program was changed after '01 model year? I believe it only comes on if the temp sensor is above a certain "hot" temp.

Two questions, what year 996 TT do you have again? There was no 996 Turbo in 1998. And, what does fpsh mean?

Hi Paul, Take a look at this: http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/860553-beta-testers-needed-for-electric-spoiler-rams.html I am currently in beta testing with an electric replacement kit. Dave djcooper@rennkit.com

Are the sensors the kind that fit into a hole drilled into the pad? If so, can you just drill a small hole into the pad material?

...been awhile since I updated my last post - sorry for the delay. Felt I needed to set the record straight, seeing as I felt so jubilant after all the effort I went through trying to revive the hydraulic system as described in the post above. The hydraulics had a catastrophic failure in July. Went on a trip and came out of the hotel one morning to a puddle of fluid under the motor area and wet streaks where it had run down the back bumper. Luckily I got the PS fluid mopped up and the paint was not harmed too much. I suspect one of the unreplaceable seals had dry-rotted and was weak. That whole exercise was a waste of time and messed up my paint job. Done with the hydraulic system forever! But have a fully operational wing... :)

both good suggestions. I believe the 2001 was different then 2002 onward. After looking at the passenger side ram, I note that there is a hole cut in the chrome sleeve that triggers the microswitch for up and down position. So when the wing is raising, the onboard computer waits for the top switch to change position and cuts the hydraulic motor. Similarly when the wing lowers, the bottom microswitch activates to cut power to the hydraulic motor. Just don't know if the microswitches are normally open or closed - my switches exploded when I took them off, miniscule fragile springs and contacts flying everywhere.