marksstrauss

I just got back from my Porsche mechanic, as he has the test equipment that I don't have. The problem turns out to be a faulty passenger door latch! Hindsight is 20-20. It now makes sense why (1) the passenger window would go up/down slightly (as it does when you open the door) while the car was running, (2) the alarm would go off minutes to hours after locking, and (3) why the inside lights remained on after the was removed from the ignition. What puzzles me is why the passenger door latch would fail before the drivers side door. Much less use. In any event, problem now understood and it doesn't look like its an expensive fix. Thanks to all that posted responses! Regards, Mark

I had a similar issue and when I checked my codes with a Durametric the code (Alarm Fault Code 34) led me to replace the interior infared alarm sensors that are located right above the center rear view mirror. Here is a link with more info. PRESS HERE Check your codes and see what exactly you have. K.Brandsma, Thanks for the lead. I hope I get a code 34. Replacing the infrared sensors looks like something I can handle. :-) Regards, Mark

Loren, From your replies, I assume that the battery change had nothing to do with this. If so, then I won't bother going back to that mechanic to ask him about this, but will head over to my Porsche mechanic on Monday. The mechanic that changed the battery was around the corner from me and I figured changing a battery doesn't require a Porsche mechanic. My Porsche mechanic has the equipment you've mentioned. I'm not sure if the other mechanic does (probably does), but I don't know if he has any experience with Porsche's. Thanks for the quick reply and the useful leads. Regards, Mark

Loren - thanks for the quick response. No, as far as I know it did not get wet. I just "felt" under the seat and didn't feel any dampness. Regards, Mark

I have/love my 2000 Boxster-S. I purchased this new over 11 yrs ago and the thrills of driving it haven't waned in all these years (95K miles). It just started having the following 2 issues: - Minutes (15) to hours (3) after locking the door via the key in the doorlock (not thru FOB), the alarm starts sounding. Unlocking the car with the key stops this (expected). - While driving with the top up or down, with the windows up (closed), I notice the windows go up/down sligthly (as if I'm parked and opening the door with the top up) and the door panel lights go on The check engine light is not on. These issues started happening after I had the battery changed at a mechanics shop. I don't know it that was the trigger or if it is just coincidence. I did ask the mechanic to put the car on some sort of bypass when removing/replacing mine. Any ideas why the alarm blares minutes/hours after locking, or why the inside lights go on/off and driver/passenger windows go up/down slightly (as if the car door were being opened? These issues are repeatable, so I can't lock my car. I'm also concerned about draining my new battery when the car is parked, because the door panel lights sometimes remain on when the key is not in the ignition. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Regards, Mark

Bill, Will do! Thanks for the info. Mark

Hi, After replacing a halogen headlamp on my 2000 Boxster-S, I ended up breaking the plastic connector housing. I can guarantee that I won't do this again, as I finally figured out that I needed to align the guides on the pad to the tracks in the headlamp opening. No, I didn't think jamming the pod in there felt right, but did anyway. Oh well, live and learn. I ordered a new connector housing and clip, thanks to RennTech pointers to (1) the 986 USA parts catalog and (2) Pelican Parts. With these parts in hand, I figured it shouldn't be too difficult to replace the connector housing and clip. What I can't figure out is how to remove the wires and connectors from the broken housing and put them into the new housing. I don't think the wires and end connections are easily pulled out from the broken connector housing. I then figured I should just 1) mark/clip each wire (7 in all) from the wiring harness, 2) solder on short extensions and clips, 3) push the clips into the new housing, 4) replace the new connector housing (OEM-99965015040) and headlamp fastener (OEM-99663124500), 5) put the headlamp assembly back in (using the guides, of course) The problem is that Pelican Parts doesn't have the clips connected to the ends of the wire, the clips that go inside the connector housing and end up connecting to the metal tabs in the headlamp pod. I was told that I needed to order a new wiring harness (~ $400.00). Is there an easy way to get the clips out of the broken housing and put them into the new housing? I can't see spending $400 for 7 metal clips that should cost less that $1. Thanks in advance! Regards, Mark