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Boca996

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  1. Scott, I'm unfamiliar with Sharkworld, but the parts cost me about $30 for the switch and $10 for misc connectors and wire, assuming you already have the opener.
  2. Scott, When you remove the section that houses the ashtray and connected buttons, the rear area is very open. I wrapped the circuit board and wires (but not the battery area) with friction tape (Lowes in the electrical section) to eliminate any potential unwanted noise. I basically just tucked it back in that area. It really works great! One other thing to keep in mind. The circuit board has a button connected to it that is basically what is pushed to open the door (fyi...the solder connection is to the other side of the board to this button). You need to have this button covered with a piece of plastic to prevent battery drain or unwanted door opening and closing in the event the circuit board button gets pressed against the wall or floor of the inside of the rear console. Regarding the wire. I used 16 guage wire with 14 to 16 guage connectors which are indicated in Kirby's pictures in his DIY. Let me know if you have any other questions.
  3. ITZKIRB has really outlined an easy DIY garage door opener button. I hated having the clicker on my visor or in my armrest. I must say his instructions are great and it really works...NO MORE CLICKER! Just a nice standard button in my rear center console. Thanks Kirby! :beer:
  4. Thanks Kirby, I wired everything yesterday, and I'm installing it today. Your instructions were great!
  5. You da man! Thanks Loren for such a great website. Everyones DIY really help! I'm doing Kirby's Garage door opener diy this weekend! Can't wait to get rid of the clicker in my driver side armrest storage area.
  6. Loren, I did a search first with no luck. Do you have a DIY for a rear (center) console removal?
  7. Loren, Regarding my original thought of a new GT3 nose on my 2002 C2 Coupe, the PCA tech committee also advised against it. However, they did recommend Porsche lowering springs mentioned in the excerpt below: "On a stock 2002, I would lower the car to Euro specs before I would do the bodywork. That will make a bigger difference in looks, and for normal driving, and we know it will be balanced & stable at speed, since Porsche tested it and runs it that way. For a street car I use Porsche's lowering springs, which are available at FVD USA, TechArt (GermanTech), or Champion Porsche, all in your area." I only use my car for street (i.e. no track). I haven't heard of Porsche lowering springs before, only the H&R. Any idea how these are different? Also, how do the PLS compare to the ROW030 or the MOW030? I don't want to screw up my suspension, but I would like a lower tighter look and better stability. Thanks!
  8. Loren, I'm considering a GT3 nose and side skirt mod to my 2002 C2 Coupe. I really don't care much for the Aero package rear fin (just a personal preference), but I'm concerned that just changing the nose will negatively impact the aerodynamics. What do you think?
  9. Don, Did you get your from Performance Products also? As indicated in several posts, some people have had quality problems.
  10. Any recomendations about where I should buy a set of aluminum gauge cluster rings and any comments or installation tips?
  11. Sorry for the confusion and this is an opportunity to give you some more detail I think you might need. I have Carerra 18" 5 spoke wheels running 285/30s on the rears. I was planning to lower the car with H&R springs and was also considering wheel spacers (not spring spacers).
  12. First, congratulations Loren on your new website! :cheers: I have a 2002 C2 Coupe and am considering installing H&R springs. Can this be done if I want to also install a set of spacers and if so, what size? Is anyone aware of any negative feedback on spacer installation?
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