racerken

Hi,

I received my Durametric today and the following error codes appeared:

P0203: Injector Circuit Cylinder 3

P0267: Injector Circuit Cylinder 3

P0300: Misfiring Checksum error

P0303: Misfiring Cylinder 3

Strange because Cylinder 3 shows no sign of fouling.  Cylinder 1 had the fouling with burnt oil chips.  Just confirming that cylinder 1 is driver side near the rear bumper, cylinder 3 is driver side front. So based on my web search my problem is injector for cylinder 3. 

Any comments?

Hi,

I removed all the spark plugs and discovered that Plugs 1 and 4 are gummed with oil.  Plug 1 has burnt oil flakes on the electrode but Plug 4 is just oily. I'm assuming that this is indeed an AOS issue so I'm continuing my strip down.  JFP, you are correct in your diagnosis - well thus far.

Thanks.

Ken

I think we have a mix of professional mechanics and "lay people" in these forums... Are you guys suggesting a DIY clutch job or are you suggesting I buy clutch parts to deliver to the mechanic?

 

I have tools for racing karts and motocross (easy access, light weight) but haven't gone beyond superficial auto repair (e.g. brake rotors, pads, starter, alternator). I have a floor jack and stands. No hoist/lift. Should I even consider doing my own clutch? 

If you can follow instructions either in manual form (WorkShop Manual) or web pages (and there are many with good step by step images) and you purchase a good set of tools you can do it yourself.  You'll need quailty tools: torque wrench, fly wheel lock or wrench, clutch centering tool, a hydraulic jack to hold the engine in place, a transmission jack and time.  If you take it to a shop, you'll spend 1,000 on labor so go figure the time vs. all the fun you'll have asking questions to this group.  The work itself is very time consuming but not complicated.

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my table did not appear...

I do have a list of parts that I purchased....  PM me and I'll send it to you.

997! 2008 Carrera with 3.6L, nothing special, stick, silver, looking very sad in the garage.

One thing I did notice that the oil cap was lose when I initially checked it.  Just out of curiosity, if the oil cap is lose and you're driving around, will this create error codes, engine shutdown?  if the answer is yes, I'm just going to yell.  

Hi JFP,

I drained the oil today and it was typical, no water, no emulsion....

This is pointing towards your assessment of the AOS.

I have a Durametric inbound so I should have it soon so I can check out the error codes.

Can the AOS be replaced with the engine mounted or do you think I need to drop it?

Thanks!

Ken

Hey J_beede,

I had a 996 and experienced the IMS failure first hand and the sound from the engine was clanking during IMS failure.  This time, no noises, just a lack of power as if it were running on 5 cylinders and then it died.  Anyway, I'll dump the oil tomorrow and provide feedback.   

Hi,

I have a 2008 Carrera C2 997. Oil is 8 months old, coolant good, plugs < 3k miles...

Today, the following events took place within 1/4 mile, 30 seconds:

1. I noticed a lack of engine power.

2. smoke from the passenger rear pipe so it's the driver side bank.

3. engine check light or something like 'visit engine shop'. I can't reproduce that message.

4. the engine just shut down.

5. smell of burnt oil.

Upon opening the engine compartment, I did notice that the oil cap was lose.  Oil is 2 bars below high bar.

Can someone recommend some discovery steps?  I'm definitely going to drain the oil to see what it looks like.

I guess smoke can only come from the piston rings, valve seals, head gasket?

Darn it.

In need of beer.

Well, I did receive 100% of my service fees late last year.  the lawsuit was in my favor but man, was I a very upset porsche owner.  Don't get me wrong, I still drive a 997 and love it.

At the time, the dealer made me pay for the services but not the remanufactured engine.  You might want to push for such a deal.

Here is what I did for the RMS seating.

(Edit to include link to Google photos.)

Home Depot: 4" PVC cap.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K9pkfc1sS4PVF3yt2

I used the old pressure plate bolt lay-out as a template for the holes to drill.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/0kXyhbqyOBH9n9813

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ouFjzMawr8EonLYd2

https://photos.app.goo.gl/uywc3O7y4ZszUPpr1

I also cut the sides of the cap so I could measure the depth without removing the screws.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4So01VfQH5Xdz5rE2

The car still is running strong.

Does anyone know where the yaw sensor is located on a 997-1?

It is located under the passenger seat.  It's a small box with a vertical cylinder.  The lateral sensor is mounted on the center console.  It looks like a pvc valve.  Like JFP said, it's a system of other sub-systems so good luck in messing with it.   :eek:

Is the minimum thickness for rotors the same for 996 and 997-1?  

996:  Fr = 28mm, Rr = 26mm.

I think I'm too OCD.

Hi,

I'm about ready to start my clutch replacement project on my 997.

I received all my big expensive parts (pressure plate, disk, and fly wheel from rock auto and the rest from Sunset including fly wheel screws. I just measured the screws on my inaccurate kitchen scale and it appears that the fasteners vary in weight whereby weighing them in pairs result in 1gm difference. (not an accurate scale so I use pairs)

I remember that the last time I put together a 11 second quarter mile engine i was overly concerned with fly wheel bolts on a Chevy LT-1.

Should I be concerned with this minor weight issue?

I was considering purchasing an accurate scale 0.1 gm tolerance and perhaps file the screws until I'm with 0.1gm.

Any comments?

Thanks.

I'm thinking of going completely German with Hazet and Stahlwille which is what they use at the Porsche factory.

Hi,

I'm in the process of buying new tools and i'm discovering that it gets really expensive if I buy the entire line of sockets from 6mm to say 22mm.

So my question to everyone is what sockets do you take under a 997 when working on the car?

I would guess:

1/4"

1. 8 mm
2. 10
3. 12

3/8"

1. 10 mm
2. 12
3. 15
4. 17

1/2"

1. 15 mm
2. 17
3. 19

I'm trying to figure out if I can get away with buying a socket set (ratchet, extensions, partial sockets) vs. ratchet and complete sockets vs. socket set + individual sockets...

Of course I left out Torx, Allen heads, XZN...

Any feedback is appreciated.

do you need to suck it out. And, in that case, that will not be the only sucking sound you will hear as your wallet shrivels up!

You are funny. I remember way back prior to the initiation of hostilities during the Gulf War 1, one of the naval commanders informed everyone to be fast, furious and aggressive but remember that a sucking chest wound is natures way of telling you to slow down.

I purchased winter rims and had Discount Tires install a set of inexpensive TPMS back in 2009. They still work.

If you have access to a hoist or pit and a second set of strong hands it is likely doable.

Here is the tool (actually a brace) and how it is used. I would think a well place jack would work well too - except that you have the risk of knocking it when removing the transmission.

Hi Loren, is this bar the same for a 997?

Thanks.

Yes, since the engine is basically the same as the 996 it should work fine.

Hi Loren,

Sir Tools makes one for the 996 and costs 179 plus 20 shipping from ebay so I ordered it from one of their resellers ZDMAK. I just test fitted and the 997 sway bar frame mounts are wider than that of the 996. Hence I'm returning it. Sad day.

JFP,

I was reading this article on 996 RMS replacement (http://www.c-speedr.com/howto/996rms/rms4.php) and he removed the engine case bolts x 4. In the 997 service guide (which I just received from ebay) there is no mention of removing the engine case bolts prior to extraction of the RMS. What do you think? remove or not remove?

Thanks,

Ken

Hi JFP,

I bled the clutch hydraulic fluid 10k miles ago. I guess it can't hurt to check again this weekend if it thaws.

I have a 2 wheel drive. I'm assuming 2WD is 60 ft-lbs?

Thanks,

Ken

Hi,

I'm now in the planning phase of a clutch replacement on my 2008 997 and wanted to ask some questions. This car is my daily driver for 4 seasons with 75% of the driving city driving = stop-n-go and recently the clutch has to be pushed 1cm short of the floor in order to disengage.

1. RMS replacement

I don't have any signs of leakage. Should I worry about this during the 90k mile clutch change or replace it now? I mean why risk a bad install which may lead to leakage (in the case that I don't use the Porsche RMS Tool 9699 and the 9699/2 insert guide - per JFP).

If I do decide on replacement, is it mandatory to use the RMS Tool 9699 and the 9699/2 insert guide in order to have a successful install. I read in another posting that the depth has to be for example 14mm, not 13mm.

I would like to hear that the 3" PVC union is sufficient but I might hear that if the depth is off by .5mm, the seal will fail prematurely...

2. Torque requests:

Can someone please provide me with Torque values for:

Axle bolts.

Pressure Plate bolts.

Flywheel bolts.

do you have to stretch them? someone posted a process whereby after torquing, you stretch the bolts by 120 degrees? I can't remember the page due to over-research. Perhaps it was Pelican?

Thanks,

Ken

If you have access to a hoist or pit and a second set of strong hands it is likely doable.

Here is the tool (actually a brace) and how it is used. I would think a well place jack would work well too - except that you have the risk of knocking it when removing the transmission.

Hi Loren, is this bar the same for a 997?

Thanks.

Hi, I have 45k (stop-n-go 6 miles to office x 365 days/year x polar vortex) on my 05 997 and the clutch now has to go down to 1cm of the floor in order to shift. I think I'm near the end of life. That said, I have a bad-arse 997 driven every day in rain/shine/snow/ice. I can tell you that this car is designed for -15F start-up, no warm up, drive to work.... All is well.

My question to you is whether the fly wheel was worth replacing? I noticed that you suspected the pressure plate. Do you have a picture of the fly wheel surface? I'm just wondering if I spend all this time and effort, perhaps I should just change the fly wheel??????

Thanks