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racerken

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About racerken

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Renault Motorsport F1 Technical Partner

Profile Fields

  • From
    Böblingen, Germany
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2014 Mercedes CLS550, Artic Silver (MI)
    2014 Subaru Outback LE 3.6 (wife)
    2008 997 Carrera, GT Metallic Silver (Germany)
    (S Rims, exhaust system)
    2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE (daughter)
  • Future cars
    67 Chevelle?
  • Former cars
    67 Camaro, 67 Chevelle, Datsun 510, Datsun 280Z, Datsun B210, Integra, M5, Volvo 740, Lexus GS, Nissan Pathfinder (96 & 05), 02 Boxster S, & 04 Carrera 2.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Sir, you are missing out on 4-wheel slides and ultra motor performance due to low temperature, dense air. You are A1 about N rated tires!!!
  2. I moved to Germany with my 997 and recently purchased the 'Porsche' approved winter tire wheels and tires (not MS). Here, if you deviate from OEM: if you get pulled over for any reason, you get a 200 euro or so ticket, if you get into an accident, you are immediate to blame and insurance is not valid - you're screwed. I'm sure there are arguments to not go OEM or to go OEM. All i can say is that on the autobahn the other day, i was flying at about 200 km (dry but cold) and had to panic break, an entire pack (front and rear) all stopped in time with 2 m between cars. We all had reflexes and winter tires. in your case, since you don't drive very fast in the US, just get good advice from someone that knows the suspension swing and required clearance. That said, wide for snow is not necessarily good.
  3. update: the driver side tailpipe does get black. i do burn 1 liter/1000 km's. When driving around town, there is very little oil loss. When driving on the autobahn (Stuttgart to Frankfurt @ 200 - 220 km/hr) and I'm downshifting, say 7k down to 5k, i do burn at 1 liter/800 km's. I recently changed my driving habits to not downshift but rather to use brakes. Anyway, the burn rate is down to .7 liter/1000 km's. As for the oil loss, it all started after the AOS failure. perhaps so much oil got sucked in that the rings or something overstressed during the compression stroke? (oil is incompressible). Second idea: I never drove this car as hard as I am now so I'm probably discovering how this monster is really supposed to behave, i.e., goes really fast, drinks oil when driving aggressively. Makes sense too. If anyone is visiting Stuttgart, be sure to visit the Porsche Museum and this place called Motorworld in Boblingen. PM if you have questions.
  4. I had similar problems with rats and squirrels and used peanuts + anti-freeze + water to rid them all. It worked.
  5. Hi, My 997.1 is making rubber noises which I think are coming from the bump stops or whatever that donut is called. what made you suspect the bumpstops?
  6. I used Roan Trucking to ship my car from MI to NJ. They had a closed trailer with a two story rack. They seem to specialize in high value cars as all cars were collector items. The driver was a car guy and took very good care of all the cars when he was rearranging the weight balance. I paid 1500 and was a happy camper. Back in 03, I shipped my Boxster from CA to MI and went with low cost open carrier. It made the trip but the car looked like hell. i think i paid 1000.
  7. Good point on the water but I'm shocked that you can emulsify .5 liters*water into approx 9 Iiters of oil. When the car was in Michigan, my stupid commute was 6 miles all at 30 to 50 mph. Yes, I know, total waste of a 997 but on weekends I'd blast it on the freeways for 30 minutes. Oil changes each 6 months, etc. In Germany, I typically travel from Stuttgart to Frankfurt which is about 320 miles round trip. This last trip, i topped off the oil with 1 liter which meant that when I started driving here back in June, I put 5k km's on it with at least 6 to 8 hours of sustained rpm (4.5k rpm sustained, 6k for acceleration but 1 to 2 minutes). Prior to this last trip to Frankfurt, I topped off to (top of the bars in the instrument panel). My driving is all Autobahn but in case you didn't know, not all Autobahn is unlimited, there are major intersections which limit speed to 120km/hour or construction which can go down to 60km/hour... I'd say that 3 hours of very high speed sustained driving with the engine at 4k to 6k rpm all the time. It's fun but very tiring. Time on road: 2.5 hours per segment. Ambient Temp: 27 to 30C Oil Temp: 225F (even when I cool it off) trips/week: 2 Gas: 100 Octane There is no visible smoke so I'm assuming that blowby at high rpm, high torque is just a fact of life? I guess my new procedure is to keep a close eye on the driving habits vs. oil consumption.
  8. Hi, I recently moved to Germany and I brought along my 997 which was TuV'd in June. I noticed that after driving high speed/high rpm for sustained time, i.e., 4.5k rpm at 2 hours, burns .5 liter of oil. I never noticed this in the US because a typical drive to work never exceeded 3k rpm. 997 is stock at 45k miles on the odometer. Thanks. Ken
  9. Hi Scherb, I'm about to send my 997.1 to Stuttgart. How long did you drive around EU before shipping back to the US? What kind of insurance did you purchase? any emmission issues? Sorry for so many questions.
  10. NO, DON'T Drop the engine. I had to drop it because of the Air Oil Separator... You can remove the heat wheel well and heat shield to get a view of the vacuum lines. you can also hook up a vacuum tester that when plugged into the vacuum line, creates a vacuum and there is a guage that you can monitor - if the vacuum drops, you know you have a leak. Lead detection is not easy and there is no short cut or 'easy' button. If you go into my flickr page you can see all sorts of engine shots.
  11. Hi, I'm about to ship my 997 to Stuttgart so I can drive it around during my long trips there. Has anyone done this? Difficulties in passing the Tuv test? Based on what the locals tell me, it's not an issue. Also, any members there? I would like recommendations on where to shop for tools: hazet/stahwille.... Thanks!
  12. @Seahawkeye: I had similar issues. In my case there were vacuum leaks in the line between the solenoid and vacuum actuator. when the motor was out, i took my time to trace all lines from the vacuum actuator to the vacuum source. i can see that there is rubbing of the line between the vacuum actuator (VA) and solenoid (which is located on top of the motor behind the throttle body. the line is protected by a stainless steel mesh which can rub against the muffler support assembly (you should see clips) then transitions to a plastic line just outside the intake manifold runners. P1060005 by racerken, on Flickr See the braided line? Every location where it comes in contact with metal causes wear and of course vibration helps to cut thru, heat causes the plastic to become brittle. Just replace it but it's really expensive from the dealer. I have more pictures if you want.
  13. @ Andry, I looked up the tmps from Rareelectircal on Amazon and they are indeed $38. Did you check the battery life after installation? I'm curious to hear about the birth day of the battery...
  14. Thanks Loren. I dropped my engine earlier and I thought perhaps I yanked a TPMS circuit out of place... So I'm going to buy a set from Rock Auto at: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, TPM2A, Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Sensor, $ 76.79 each x 4 = $ 307.16 STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, TPM5, Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Sensor Valve, $ 9.94 each x 4 = $ 39.76 I'm assuming that the install is about $ 35/per wheel. I hope it solves the problem but at least I can remove one most likely cause before I start tracing wires.
  15. Hi, I have a 2008 997 and my TPMS won't relearn itself. The Durametric reads: Part Number 997.618.103.06, Fault Code: 800C, Wheel electronics signals implausible. What does this mean? Thanks.
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