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About racerken

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  • From
    Böblingen, Germany
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    Mercedes W218, Artic Silver
    2014 Subaru Outback LE 3.6
    997.1 Carrera, GT Metallic Silver
    Nissan Pathfinder LE R51
  • Future cars
    67 Chevelle?
  • Former cars
    67 Camaro, 67 Chevelle, Datsun 510, Datsun 280Z, Datsun B210, Integra, M5, Volvo 740, Lexus GS, Nissan Pathfinder (96 & 05), 02 Boxster S, & 04 Carrera 2.

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  1. True that. To support this statement, I hereby claim that over filling your oil will cost you 15k for motor overhaul. (overhaul took place about 20k after the AOS replacement) It was the dumbest thing I've done in my life besides getting married and having children that went to college to basically spend a GT3. As for German owners manual, they never are joking. You basically own a motor that is designed to be reving above 3k rpm all day long.
  2. On my old motor, it used to burn so much oil that I thought I'd add just alittle bit more... Really stupid of me. I blew up the Air Oil Separator, oil entered the cylinder - beginning of the death of my motor - I think. Had to drop the motor to replace a $100 component. It was probably one of the strong contributors to my motor giving up it's life.
  3. Hi, I had the same issue. It ended up being a loose Headlight Angle sensor. Perhaps a quick look?
  4. Update: I gave up and had the motor re-built. Turned out that the ceramic coating in the cylinder gave way (apparently common here)... Now it's an Autobahn Screamer for the last 12 months.
  5. Sir, you are missing out on 4-wheel slides and ultra motor performance due to low temperature, dense air. You are A1 about N rated tires!!!
  6. I moved to Germany with my 997 and recently purchased the 'Porsche' approved winter tire wheels and tires (not MS). Here, if you deviate from OEM: if you get pulled over for any reason, you get a 200 euro or so ticket, if you get into an accident, you are immediate to blame and insurance is not valid - you're screwed. I'm sure there are arguments to not go OEM or to go OEM. All i can say is that on the autobahn the other day, i was flying at about 200 km (dry but cold) and had to panic break, an entire pack (front and rear) all stopped in time with 2 m between cars. We all had reflexes and winter tires. in your case, since you don't drive very fast in the US, just get good advice from someone that knows the suspension swing and required clearance. That said, wide for snow is not necessarily good.
  7. update: the driver side tailpipe does get black. i do burn 1 liter/1000 km's. When driving around town, there is very little oil loss. When driving on the autobahn (Stuttgart to Frankfurt @ 200 - 220 km/hr) and I'm downshifting, say 7k down to 5k, i do burn at 1 liter/800 km's. I recently changed my driving habits to not downshift but rather to use brakes. Anyway, the burn rate is down to .7 liter/1000 km's. As for the oil loss, it all started after the AOS failure. perhaps so much oil got sucked in that the rings or something overstressed during the compression stroke? (oil is incompressible). Second idea: I never drove this car as hard as I am now so I'm probably discovering how this monster is really supposed to behave, i.e., goes really fast, drinks oil when driving aggressively. Makes sense too. If anyone is visiting Stuttgart, be sure to visit the Porsche Museum and this place called Motorworld in Boblingen. PM if you have questions.
  8. I had similar problems with rats and squirrels and used peanuts + anti-freeze + water to rid them all. It worked.
  9. Hi, My 997.1 is making rubber noises which I think are coming from the bump stops or whatever that donut is called. what made you suspect the bumpstops?
  10. I used Roan Trucking to ship my car from MI to NJ. They had a closed trailer with a two story rack. They seem to specialize in high value cars as all cars were collector items. The driver was a car guy and took very good care of all the cars when he was rearranging the weight balance. I paid 1500 and was a happy camper. Back in 03, I shipped my Boxster from CA to MI and went with low cost open carrier. It made the trip but the car looked like hell. i think i paid 1000.
  11. Good point on the water but I'm shocked that you can emulsify .5 liters*water into approx 9 Iiters of oil. When the car was in Michigan, my stupid commute was 6 miles all at 30 to 50 mph. Yes, I know, total waste of a 997 but on weekends I'd blast it on the freeways for 30 minutes. Oil changes each 6 months, etc. In Germany, I typically travel from Stuttgart to Frankfurt which is about 320 miles round trip. This last trip, i topped off the oil with 1 liter which meant that when I started driving here back in June, I put 5k km's on it with at least 6 to 8 hours of sustained rpm (4.5k rpm sustained, 6k for acceleration but 1 to 2 minutes). Prior to this last trip to Frankfurt, I topped off to (top of the bars in the instrument panel). My driving is all Autobahn but in case you didn't know, not all Autobahn is unlimited, there are major intersections which limit speed to 120km/hour or construction which can go down to 60km/hour... I'd say that 3 hours of very high speed sustained driving with the engine at 4k to 6k rpm all the time. It's fun but very tiring. Time on road: 2.5 hours per segment. Ambient Temp: 27 to 30C Oil Temp: 225F (even when I cool it off) trips/week: 2 Gas: 100 Octane There is no visible smoke so I'm assuming that blowby at high rpm, high torque is just a fact of life? I guess my new procedure is to keep a close eye on the driving habits vs. oil consumption.
  12. Hi, I recently moved to Germany and I brought along my 997 which was TuV'd in June. I noticed that after driving high speed/high rpm for sustained time, i.e., 4.5k rpm at 2 hours, burns .5 liter of oil. I never noticed this in the US because a typical drive to work never exceeded 3k rpm. 997 is stock at 45k miles on the odometer. Thanks. Ken
  13. Hi Scherb, I'm about to send my 997.1 to Stuttgart. How long did you drive around EU before shipping back to the US? What kind of insurance did you purchase? any emmission issues? Sorry for so many questions.
  14. NO, DON'T Drop the engine. I had to drop it because of the Air Oil Separator... You can remove the heat wheel well and heat shield to get a view of the vacuum lines. you can also hook up a vacuum tester that when plugged into the vacuum line, creates a vacuum and there is a guage that you can monitor - if the vacuum drops, you know you have a leak. Lead detection is not easy and there is no short cut or 'easy' button. If you go into my flickr page you can see all sorts of engine shots.
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