shihman

I SWEAR AOS MUST HATES MY GUTS. the bellow just will not seat correctly. the front part will go down but the back side is still sticking up. i have taken AOS out like 15 times already to adjust the position and the hose clamp. the clamp is not even pinching down, it is very loose around the hose yet the bellow just will not go down right. i can't applying any pressure on the back side. what am i suppose to do now? i am so close...

good to hear. i am onto finishing it now. will report back and hopefully will be complete when i do. ;) thank you all.

move the bracket and the connector out of the way to push the accordion hose down more? so it needs to be completely flush?

ok guys, i was finally able to nudge the middle hose off and taken the old AOS out. not i have the new AOS on but i can't get the accordion hose completely down (see pic circled in red). is that ok? i used a plastic tie to hold the hose clamp open and will cut it to close it. also i do realize the plastic tube (part of the AOS) is not completely in as well. but it should go all the way in after i tighten the 2 - 10mm bolts correct?

hey brad, your post was very clear. i appreciate everyone's patience for sticking with me. i tried again until sun went down yesterday and a little more this morning and looks like there is just no way i can take AOS out with out disconnecting the middle hose on AOS or the middle oil tube across the top. those pesky plastic ring is just...grrr. the way they are oriented i just can't get the plier in the right rotation to squeeze them open. i know, i will keep trying. thanks again. i'll report back in my next break. :cursing:

am i the only one this confused and frustrated about this while DIY thing?

i will try again but i am about to pull all my hair out. it's always something that's in the way. i will report back later. thanks.

thank you for your quick reply. i tried every which possible way, even snapped another plastic cable (i'll include a photo when i calm down), but the bottom part of the AOS which houses the 2 bolts will not clean the middle oil tube runs across the top preventing me to take the AOS out.

ok, i took a big breath and set my mind on finishing it. i put the car on ramps however, so far i still did everything from top. the only time i needed to go under the car is to take a second look on the location of where everything are. sure, i did a lot simply by touch and using the new AOS as a guide. so far, i was able to took off the 2 - 10mm bolts, cut the accordion part of the hose, dislodge the old AOS. now i am stuck again with the middle hose. it's been almost 45 min. mess around with the connection. the problem is i just can't apply any force on clamping down the ring or applying force around the elbow to force it apart. without taking out the middle hose, the AOS is not gong anywhere. i am also afraid to put too much force on the ring to break it. any quick tipson how to take the middle hose out? i am sorry if i am asking all those stupid questions. i can see the finish line and i am getting a little excited and then something else will stumble me.

ok guys, i am getting very frustrated and about to give up. but i am stuck half and don't know what the heck my next move should be. i finally got all the parts and read and re-read all the directions and ready to tackle the task. of course, nothing ever works out the way you planned. 1. i started with replacing the cracked middle section of the oil tube. then realize the Y-tube connected to the AOS is in the way. so i took out the Y-tube and that wasn't too bad except the old tube snapped in half while i try to disconnect. but no worries, i can and will replace that tube anyway. 2. next, now that the Y-tube is out of the way, i moved on to disconnect the end of the oil tube behind the Y-tube. after messing around with the hose clamp, my newly bought sears hose clamp plier broke. but no worries, i was still able to use it to open up the hose clamp. even with the hose clamp out of the way, the hose still would not move an inch, not at all. there were not much room around it to apply any force to it. i thought about cutting the cracked hose in half and i can twist the hose and hopefully that will help to loosen it (good thing i didn't before i moved on to the next step, i'll explain why). 3. so i thought may be if i take out the AOS and i should have more room to maneuver to work around the oil tube. so i moved on to take off the rear passenger wheel. oh boy, here is the fun part. i can't freaking loose all the bolts. tried everything even standing on it would not loosen them. and the worst part, i even snap the key lock for the locking bolt. i am just wondering how the hell am i suppose to change my tire if i had a flat on side of the road. NOW WHAT??? now that i took out the Y-tube and that can be easily replaced with the new one. since i haven cut my cracked oil tube (this is why is good), i guess i can tighten the 3 bolts i was able to loosen, in 45 minutes, and drive to local tire store for them to loosen all the bolts for me if the key lock is still usable. after messed around for about 2-1/2 hours (about 45 min actually doing something productive) how do i change the oil tube end that is buried all the way inside the compartment cavity (outside the oil reservoir) if i was able to disconnect the other end? would it help if ido cut the old oil tube in half, anyone done that before? i need help and advice before i give up.

hey guy, just reporting back. i cleared my cel by disconnecting my battery and i drove around all day for about 60 miles and cel hasn't come back on. but i am sure it may take a bit longer than just one day. also after i taped the crack on my oil tube, (i also sealed it with silicone and used a flex hose crack black tape over) there were no more puff of smoke at the start up, none all day. is it possible that the crack was the culprit for everything? :huh:

hey maurice and glyn, i don't know what else i can say about you two, mainly, and all those who replied to help me. after cleaning the butterfly valve and taped the crack oil tube, the idling engine remain constant at about 850 to 900 rpm just like before. i am so thankful for the inputs and everything else that you guys have given me. just this simple task, about 3 hours of work because i don't know what i was doing but it will be quicker next time, saved me about $200 to $300 at the shop. i would buy you guys few rounds of beer or something. :cheers: now i am more confident to tackle next few problems. next up is changing the AOS. but i'll have to find a way to jack up the car to access the AOS though. i'll also order the oil tube next week and that wil be the last piece for now. but tomorrow i will disconnect the battery (don't worry, i have my radio code) to clear my cel and see if it comes back (p1130 vacuum leak). oh one more thing, i have ordered the AOS and the y-tube, is there a kind of lubricant that i need to changed the AOS also? can i get that at local autozone or do i need to order that from sunset too? thank you all, :drive:

hey maurice, defiantly is the oil tube. although i am not sure if it is the middle part (doesn't look it has 3 parts, only 2.). it does have the connection you showed in you pic. but mine does not has the mesh sock but it has a coil like bending section towards the firewall/side of the coolant tank. where can i get those temporary fix you are talking about, autozone? the silicone sealant or the flexible dense form patch and tape (preferred?)? is the car drivable before i seal the crack because i'll need to drive to local auto store to get them.

hey maurice, thank you for your quick response. i cleaned the butterfly valve and the all the oil off top of the engine. and it turns out that the color of the part is black to begin with (duh...) and there actually wasn't that much dried oil on it. so i reconnect the trunk back on to throttle body, that's a ***** try to put it back on, and the air filter housing. then i went to investigate and familiarize myself with the AOS, i think i found the culprit to my problem. the hose next to the top of the AOS has a crack (see picture. the red circle indicates the crack and the yellow is the top of AOS correct?) i don't know what this hose connects to. i tried to follow it but again with my very limited knowledge, i have no idea where it leads to. so, here are more of my stupid questions, is it likely this is the cause for cel P1130, vacuum leak, and the big puff of smike at start up? is it likely that my AOS is still good (i'll still change it out when it comes next week)? lastly, hose this cracked hose, is it safe for me to drive my car, just locally and short distance? thank you all for the instruction, encouragement and patience. i do feel rejuvenated and definitely have more confident to work on my car more. i can't say enough about this forum. whomever started this needs to get a medal of honor. :thankyou:

ok guys, with your help i was ready to tackle this task. after i remove the engine cover, first thing i noticed is the dark color spot on the engine (see picture 1 circled in red). it looks like an oil leak or some sort. should i be concerned? is this a major problem and could this be reason for the smoke? second, i removed the main trunk from the air filter housing to the throttle body. i noticed there are some oil inside the trunk dripping from the butterfly valve (see picture 2). the trunk and both ends seem fine with no cracks and the seal was very tight when i try to remove it. a side note, from the diagram, my trunk do not have an air sound baffle attached to it. now do i need to take the throttle body apart to clean the valve, since the valve is pointing downward? or do i just spray the cloth with cleaner and try to clean the gum off the valve as much as possible, there is a very thick layer of gum. please advice on how to proceed. thanks a bunch.

you guys are awesome. :notworthy: tomorrow suppose to be a really nice day here in dallas and i'll set aside a whole day to do this. my AOS parts won't be here until next week but at least i can familiar myself around the engine first. i'll report back and let you guys know how i went for me. thank you bunch.

thx glyn. i am sure this may be all very to you guys just as you can type out the instruction so easily. i too wish i am that knowledgeable. :huh: like i said in the earlier thread, i am barely qualify as a weekend DIYer. so i have few questions and concerns in order for me to do this. will i be able to access everything from the top without jacking up the car? do i need to purchase any parts ie. hoses, clamps, in advance because this is my only car and if i have to take it apart, i will not be able to go any where. now, after i take it all apart, is it pretty straight forward as far as putting everything back together? may be i need to do a search for a exploded diagram on a boxster engine.

i do have an e-gas. i know for fact because i had to replace one few years back. what you described is exactly how it is. oh and there is another thing i failed to mention (failed like my AOS). i have a cel comes on and off for few weeks now and i finally went to my local auto zone and got a P1130. it indicates a leak some where or a failed O2 sensor. how do i check whether it's a bad O2 or a leak?

thank you all again. i'll try to make the description of the problem more clearly next time, if i still have the car. also thank you for explaining the characteristic of the engine design. so i will not panic next time. ;) some of my confusion after doing some research here is also exactly what you said about having smoke while driving. but i didn't notice much smoke if any at all after the initial start up (cold and warm). and the fluctuation of the engine during idling goes from 9000 to 2000 and back to 9000 rpm for 3 or 4 times then it will stop and stays around 9000. i had to replace my MAF few years back and may be i need to replaced it again because of the AOS. ok, so i'll proceed as planned to get the AOS replaced and report back here. Hopefully that will fix the problem. thanks,

wow glyn, i didn't see that coming. you just threw a monkey wrench into my plan (no pun intended). so you think my problem is not the AOS. i am so lost now. i always park my car in the garage and it is relatively flat in all 4 directions. the puff of smoke thing just started last friday. it doesn't matter where i go or how long i park the car, there is always smoke at the start up no matter if it's a cold start or after the engine warms. what do you think it's the problem now? i just ordered AOS and the y-tube from Sunset today. please help...

thank you all for all your input. as i said before, i was recently laid off and my plan is to get this fixed and sale it. i love this car and i hate to let it go. but this car is just any many other high quality, high performance car. it is very durable but its getting to the age where many original parts has to be replaced and the fee is just too much for me to up keep, especially now. so, i'll go ahead and order the AOS and the Y-tube. is there anything else that i'll need?

LINK third pic shows a J-tube, if yours looks doesn't like that then you need the Y-tube! I replaced mine a couple of years ago and took me about 4 hours and was the first job I did on a Boxster. You will need to access the engine from both top and bottom so axle stands are a 'must have'. thanks Hairy, i read the link you sent me and i also found few other links said that on a 2000MY and up model, you can access the AOS from top only. is this correct?

2000MY, Boxster S, 100800miles. hi guys, last friday morning when i go start my car, a big puff of smoke came out. i thought i blew my engine. then the smoke slowly burned away. so i did a search here and all the symptoms point to a failed AOS. Along with the big white puff of smoke, i also felt lose of power lately and a fluctuating engine speed when idling. after some search i found the part number for the AOS (996-107-023-04) but i need someone to confirm with me that i will need a Y-tube NOT a J-tube correct? i will make the purchase as sson as someone can help me confirming this. is there anything that i'll need? so far i had my car for about 7 years, i have only changed the O2 sensors, the MAF and the ignition key switch myself. i don't even consider myself qualify as a weekend warrior (DIYer). but since i was also laid off last week, money is a little tight. is this something i can do myself? can someone send me the post if someone has already posted before? if not, does anyone knows what is the approx. labor cost at a shop? thank you all in advance for helping me.

i got my car back from the shop today. the problem was a leaky water pump and a failed auxiliary fan. the total cost was $1,700 parts and labor. $1,100 was for the water pump and $600 for the fan and he blower. apparently you can't get just the fan replaced. you have to replace the whole assembly which is the fan and the blower. does this sound right for what was replaced and the price?

hey thanks for your quick response. i am a little puzzled because my oil level hasn't changed since the leak from yesterday. but the amount of the fluid that leaked on my garage floor was pretty significant. i just checked every reservoir in the car that i can see and every one of them is at the proper level. what gives?