shihman

hi guys, i need major help here. i have searched the forum for similar problem but i have only found bits and pieces of similar problems but not exact.

my problem is i got a squealing noise from the engine started few weeks back. but it only lasts for a few minutes after a cold start in the morning. yesterday, the car started from cold and there was no noise. After approx 15 min of driving (car up to normal operating temp 180-190) the squealing starts barely noticeable at first. It seems to start when at constant load or decreasing throttle and application of throttle will cause noise to stop. If I continue driving the squeal intensity increases until it is always there regardless of throttle position (it still changes in pitch and intensity with engine load/rpm just doesn't stop).

The squeal is present when moving and when stopped at idle. The car still runs well with no noticeable loss of power even when noise is present. Car idle is good, oil and coolant levels normal, and no fault lights are on. i am not much of a car guy but my first impression is that something is grinding and needing some kind of fluid. i figure this grinding/squealing sound is not good so i went home as fast as i can. after i got home, i noticed a burned smell and white smoke comes out of the right (passenger) side vent. 15 to 20 minutes lastr, there was a big puddle of watery stuff under the car. i looked under the car, the leak is coming out of the mid section towards the back of the car. i am not sure what kind of fluid exactly. it is very thin, almost like water, yet it also has a little grease (lubricant) to it.

i am afraid to even try to start it and planning on having it towed to the shop tomorrow. but i'll appreciate anyone can give me some idea of what i am dealing with.

Car is a 2000 S with 96k miles. please HELP!!

Check the polyrib belt pulleys, and water pump.

hey guys, mine boxster is a 2000 S and i just experienced a similar problem except that my smoke comes out of the right (passenger) side vent and after i parked, there was a leak in the mid section towards back under the car. the puddle seems to be water. could this be both the AOS and the water pump? please help. thank you all.

Shihiman

I doubt it's your motor.. If you jiggled it around and got it to move...it works. There are 3 or 4 common problems with these tops and the motors are not one. The top light just means something messed up...we know that (I can't get mine to go out but the top works).

Technically theres are 3 switches that get tagged during an open or close cycle. Any one of them being bad or not tripped can keep your light on..and more...compplicated.

If you haven't yet, put the thing in “service mode” which is done (if I remember correctly) by opening the top about a foot or so till the clamshell rises about 9 inches, you can then reach in and find a cable on each side that holds the back of the top taunt and down, They pop off (ball joint thing).

You can now lift the back of the top up and see all. Look at the”L” shaped lever arms for the top on either side of engine cover compartment. They should be positioned EXACTLY as mirror images. If one is a bit off this will say much. Also make sure the “tie-rods” from these levers are not cracked at the ends.

Good luck

PK

Maurice where are you?

pk, thanks again for your advice. i will try to do what you suggested and get back to you.

The only real big difference I know of is the “transmissions”. Newer ones are different in that they have...um the stop switches built in(?) and maybe a full round gear (?). At some point the geometry of the top was changed to accommodate a glass rear window. Also at some point they put in better cables that don't stretch.

For the most part though their not “radical” changes. The functions are the same as far as your problem is concerned. Your observations are keen in that you interpreted your dimming lites as an indicator of a big draw on your battery.

Either you have something (softball, in the gutter, your missing drill etc) blocking the top mechanisms travels or, the mechanism is fighting itself. This may be evidenced by a tweaked clam shell cover as it winds open.

For the immediate, put the top in service mode and disconnect the tie rods (with little ball sockets on the ends, going to the top structure from transmissions). Then you can see all in the top mechanism and look for the common problems youv'e seen described here.

You can also operate your top manually until you figure it out.

Regards, PK

hi PK, thanks for your quick response. i took your advice and looked around see if i got anything stuck. i didn't find anything but by doing so, i jiggle the top few time, push and hold the button few times the top was able to go back up. however the top light on the dashboard stays on. i am still not sure that fixed the problem. my question is, can the motor be too old and it doesn't have enough power or juice to move the top? also, can you please tell me how to operate the top manually?

hi all, first i would like to thank EVERYONE in this fourm for ALL the help in the past. now i need another desperat help. i have done lots research on this topic already and it seems like everyone's problem was resolved with the problem i don't have. :(

here is what i know of my conditions:

1. i tried to open the top last night and it just stop 2/3 way down.

2. the hand break light is on

3. when i unlatch the lever/hook, windows went down normally

4. the convertible light on dashboard came on when i press the down button, but now is staying on

5. when i push the down button, i can hear a double click from behind the seat and lights on dashboard went dim slightly like the motor is drawing power

here is what i have done/checked so far:

1. checkedboth fuse and both are fine

2. took out the double relay, tapped many many times and re-insert it back in and taking it out many many time also

3. rehook the hand break switch just in case

4. poke my finger in the windshield micro switch (that's the one the latch goes in right?) while pushing the open button and i can hear the click

5. i even disconnect and reconnect the battery

i hear there is a big difference between the 99 verion and the 00 and up. now after what i have done, please advice me what to do or check next.

hi guys, now i am in desperation mode. few month back my 2000 boxster s started having problem with starting. the symptom was similar as the clutch switch where after insert the key and turn, everything lights up except engine. so i tried to make a bridge, suggestion from few knowledgeable members here, but didn't work. the other suggestion was the ignition switch because if i held the key in the 2 position long enough, any where from 10 to 30 seconds, engine will start. so i order the audi part and made the change 2 days ago but the same problem still there. guys please help. any other suggestions? what else can i try before i give up and take it to the shop.

ok guys, i am totally lost. i have seen other similar posts that describe my problem where when i trun the key everything lights up but engine don't start. all sugestions are looking at the clutch interlock switch. i got down and looked around the clutch, and the only part that i can remove is i believe the clutch cruise control switch. its got a push switch at one end on the clutch padel side and the red cruise control connects to the other end. i do see a steel plate with two wires connected to it. is that the clutch interlock switch? if it is, it can not be removed and cleaned like some people have suggested.

i am not sure if my problem is the clutch interlock switch. even though i have exactly the same sympton, but if i turn the key and hold it for 5 to 10 seconds, it will start. but it is getting worse. last few days, i have to try 4 or 5 times before car starts. each time i have to turn, hold it, take the key out and put it back in and repeat for the car to start. can this be something else? please help a 2000 s. :(

And you have checked the clutch interlock switch?

Yes try what Loren suggested. MY99 had the same problem Friday morning. Key turns, dash lights all on, electrical system works but car would not start. So tonite I checked the clutch switch & the car started. Check it out, depress the clutch and pull out the switch with your fingers. I need to clean the switch now.

i have a 2000 S and i am experiencing the same problem. can you tell me where is the clutch interlock switch?

thank you.

The clutch interlock switch is on the clutch pedal. As I recall it looks like a gray plunger. If you connect the two wire from the switch then you bypass it - just be careful that the clutch is depressed or your are in neutral.

ok guys, i am totally lost. i got down and looked around the clutch, and the only part that i can remove is i believe the clutch cruise control switch. its got a push switch at one end on the clutch padel side and the red cruise control connects to the other end. i do see a steel plate with two wires connected to it. is that the clutch interlock switch? if it is, it can not be removed and cleaned like what walt2810 said.

i am not sure if my problem is the clutch interlock switch. even though i have exactly the sympton, but if i turn the key and hold it for 5 to 10 seconds, it will start. but it is getting worse. last few days, i have to try 4 or 5 times each time turn, hold it, take the key out and put it back in and repeat for the car to start. can this be something else? please help a 2000 s.

And you have checked the clutch interlock switch?

Yes try what Loren suggested. MY99 had the same problem Friday morning. Key turns, dash lights all on, electrical system works but car would not start. So tonite I checked the clutch switch & the car started. Check it out, depress the clutch and pull out the switch with your fingers. I need to clean the switch now.

i have a 2000 S and i am experiencing the same problem. can you tell me where is the clutch interlock switch?

thank you.

hey loren, thank so much for your advise and help. i'll try that first before i order the o2 sensor. but can you tell me from my diagram which o2 sensor is the 1 i need? i'll let you know what i find. thanks again.

i am sorry if i am asking all kind of elementary questions. how can you tell if it is just a exhaust leak?

hi guys, i have a 2000 boxster s and i need some help with identifying the oxygen sensor that i need for error code p1276 and p0153. i have done some research on this topic and have came up with few threads covering this but still a little confused. the confusion is this error code indicates a bad O2 sensor at bank 2 sensor 1, which is on the driver side before the cat converter (number 1 in the diagram below). and the parts number someone has posted is bosch 13806 which is for a post cat sensor. so i just need someone to clear this up before i purchase the parts. please help. thank you all.

ps. please let me know the number in the diagram below.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...amp;code=sunset

hey loren, thank you very much.

hi all, can anybody help me with the parts number for a 2000 boster s coolant tank? i have found the thread for how to change one but i can't seem to find anybody list the parts number fot it. thank you all in advance.

Yes you can get the switch from a dealership.

I couldn't figure out how to get the center console off but you can see the switch if you look in there... I got lucky and turns out the connection was just loose on mine. Re-seated (poked) it and it worked again. Good Luck!

thank you for your help. i'll call the dealership tomorrow. i guess i'll poke around too to figure out how to get it off.

what does the switch looks like? does anyone has any picture of it?

hi guys, i am such an idiot. no, the parking light didn't come on when i pull the hand brake. i don't know what was i looking.

so does this mean i have a bad switch related to the hand brake? can i buy this switch from a local car parts store or do i have to go to the dealership? is this some thing i can do myself?

thank you guys for helping.

1st guess is bad hand brake micro switch

+1

Does your "Park" light on the dash come on when you pull up on the parking brake?

If not then check out these threads from the rennlist forum:

"Top Wont Go Down"

and

"Hmmm... Top Button dead"

yes the parking light does comes on. everything seems fine the way it should when my top does work. that's why i am very puzzled.

hi guys, i need some major help here. my 2000 boxster s' convertible top just stopped working out of the blue two days ago. no signs of any trouble before. i have already done a search on such topics and didn't find the exact match to my problem. the problem i am having is when i unlatch the lock, the windows will drop like normal but nothing else happens. no sound, no noise, nothing. i thought this may be as simple as just a blown fuse but i think the power windows are also using the same fuse as well. so i didn't think i am that lucky. and if it is the motor, is this something i can buy the parts and replace it myself? keep in mind, i am in no way a very technical or a very knowledgeable person when it comes to fixing cars, but i am learning and trying. if i have overlooked some threads that has already posted, please help directing me to them. :(

hi toddwess, i too have a 2000 boxster s. i also had the same problem with my MAF. i did everything that you did with my old MAF, i cleaned it, disconnect the battery and CEL still came up after about 35 miles of driving. i took it to auto zone had them read the code for me and i think the code is P0202 (i think) which is either a bad MAF or a bad connection to the MAF. so i search around and found this guy on ebay selling the MAF for an unbeliveable price of $285 shipping included. i email him and paid him through paypal and got the MAF in 4 days from UPS. after switching it out, my CEL went off by itself after 5 starts and it's been over two weeks and the CEL is still off.

here is the link. i don't know if he still has anymore left but it doesn't hurt to send him an email and ask.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

good luck.

Okay, I took my MAF Sensor out and cleaned it with CAC Quick Drying Electronic Cleaner. It seemed to be cleaner, but what do I know.

I put it back in, and the CEL did not go off.

So, then I disconneced the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnected.

The CEL light is off.

Here is what I'm wondering . . . if your battery gets disconnected, and you had a pending condition that caused your CEL to illuminate, doesn't it make sense that the computer will wait until a certain number of miles/time goes by before it illuminates it again? I mean, it has to take historical data in order to get a definite reading, so if we disconnect the battery isn't really the solution, is it?

I guess if the CEL comes back on in like 30 miles or so, I can assume the cleaning didn't work.

I don't get it . . . the only thing that will keep this device (the MAF) from operating properly shoudl be dirt. If it is cleaned, that should remedy the situation, right?

Troubled,

Todd