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porsche996tt_tpe

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Everything posted by porsche996tt_tpe

  1. Thanks again for the input. Very real. Does anybody know if I were to manage the electronic graft, which Bosch ABS pump would be a compatible candidate/donor? If I made this work, I'd be sure to report the finding and how this is done. Thanks!
  2. Appreciate the Frankenstein comment and $10 helmet. But it is really not. I drive a 16 yo car that does not command a $4000 part, really. Some of us just want a solution, in a more sensible way. What I'm suggesting is def not $10 fix. You buy a new part (for a lot less because it's not exclusively for Porsche) but with a grafted electronic board/version that would work just like new. Nothing about it is being cheaply done; the bit still comes from Bosch. I wonder if their rebuilt dept does the same thing anyway... Part of the forum is about exploring options, so I would think. Thanks.
  3. ok. from an elec engineering point of view, from what I can see, the pump can not be repaired or at least repaired easily. so why not use another cheap Borsch-made pump and graft the electronic board over? I just don't think Bosch would make an entirely unique part for 996 turbo, the best is having a unique board that defies compatibility. any thoughts or am I just day-dreaming...
  4. HI! Car is 2002 996 turbo. I've got code 4266 also. They come and go. From the above: Possible causes of fault - return pump motor locked up/runs too easily - Wire/plug connection faulty - PSM hydraulic unit faulty What does "return pump motor locked up/runs too easily" mean? Is the motor a separate unit, inside the pump, or...? Is this item a repairable thing? Thanks! CW
  5. Hi all, From where I live, the Sachs (20-way adjustable) coilover for 996TT and KW V1 (non-adjustable) cost about the same. Which would be a better choice for DD? Thanks! I heard the V1 is really the same as V3, without the adjustments? true? Sachs is really not well-known for Porsche coilover upgrades... Thanks for any input!
  6. The ball bearings have been replaced with new. So it's not from the bearing itself. The noise is apparent from idle to about 3000RPM. The noise is gone when the major components in the crank case (incl. the shaft) are swapped with another spare. Any inputs? Thanks.
  7. Want to give an update... Since last Jan, the shop-owner put in an used "C4S" fuel pump into my TT, the pump has been working problem-free. Last month the shop-owner told me that something similar has happened again! A guy had his TT's fuel pump replaced new only to find it break down in less than 6 months. This guy then came to my friend's shop and replaced the pump and to find it break again in less than 4 months! Both repairs, the latest -02 version of the pump has been used... I had mine replaced twice and they broke in less than a year! So, the shop-owner asked me to NOT replace the working C4S pump in my TT... Any one heard of this crazy pump problem???
  8. Posting this as a request for a shop owner who's been working on this problem for months w/o solution... Car is 996 turbo. The engine has a loud humming noise (like that of a bad bearing) from the crank case, from the center crank shaft. The sound was isolated using a stethoscope. All the copper sleeves on the shaft have been replaced, along with other replaceable/wearable parts. He finally swapped the whole crank case from another TT engine, the noise is gone. But he can't figure out why... The shop-owner said, he's seen a few TT with the similar noise as they age, but most car owners simply ignore it. Any inputs?
  9. Is it possible that the mechanic could have mis-installed the pump to cause early failure? The car was driving fine and fuel consumption seems normal...
  10. I left the car in the shop for a week. I want to update on what happened. The shop owner said the fuel pressure valve is 3.8bar at idle. He did however replace the fuel pressure valve. He didn't say why he did that... He's still unsure if there are other causes leading to the premature pump failures, so he gave me an old, but working pump for now. He didn't want to put in a new one just so it would fail again. I'm driving the car in great fear that it will die on me some where on the road... I want to check if there's another suggestions or places to check. I'd welcome any comments. Thanks!!
  11. Yes, the pump won't turn when given a direct 12V supply. Both occasions, the car just suddenly lost its power.
  12. yes, has nothing to do with 2nd gear. It's just the 1st was too quick too loud, the 2nd allows you to hear the engine more clearly, and 3rd was too fast too much wind noise... I have Tip.
  13. The gas filter has been replaced as well. During hard accel, especially on 2nd gear, I hear a momentary break in the engine roar. It's very brief. Does this mean anything to the fuel system? Thanks.
  14. Thanks, Loren, for the quick reply. I am at the shop and the new part they have is 996-620-107-02 The mechanic and I are both worried if there are other issues (the relay, for ex.) that may cause pre-mature failures. Have you seen this happening twice within a year? Thanks again.
  15. Car is 2002 996 TT. I replaced the fuel pump with a brand new one in 2013/2 and it broke again on 2013/6 and had it replaced with a brand new pump. Now 6 months later it just broke again, now in the garage... I did a little search and didn't come up with much. Has anyone had repeated fuel pump failure in their TT? Could the incoming power frying up the pump motors? Also, the local mechanic said he's had many calls recently with failed fuel pumps in his shop, so he's asking me to post this to see if similar problem is occuring elsewhere... Thanks a lot for your help! D.
  16. Just to update: I went with 285/30/18 (RSR 595) on the rear and 215/40/18 (T1R) on front. The combo works well and they match in rev/mile.
  17. OK. The noise is gone!! I finally had all 4 tires replaced yesterday. I didn't go with the factory spec. I went with 215/40/18 and 285/30/18 combo, only because I could get the rear ones of a certain brand (Federal RSR 595) much cheaper (about 1/2 the price) than the choices of 295/30/18 that I have... The combo has a slightly narrow width but the front and the rear match in rev/mile. Yep, the noise is no longer there. It's very possible that the PS2's that I had didn't go well with the RE001 in the front (they were both factory spec). Replacing the LSD oil with factory-spec oil reduces the frequency of noises (could not be reproduced so easily) and changing the tires completely eliminate the noise issue. Something that bothered me for a long time finally went away... I'm happy now, but It's kind'a funny how such a little noise can bother you so much... BTW, the T1R (215/40/18) and RSR 595 (285/40/18) is supple in ride quality. A bit softer than the RE001/PS2 combo that I had, but as a DD, I like it this way. The RSR 595 is a bit slippy in rains, however.
  18. I don't know if 'repacking the bearing' is exactly the right term. The wheel bearing or something close to it (oh, I think a joint from the hub to the wheel) had a leak. They fixed it by replacing the bushing. It's not the bearing itself. Sorry about the confusion. I imagine if it's the bearing, the noise would be there all the time. The noise (rattling/grinds) I hear only appear at 1800~2000RPM. As long as you select a gear that would skip this range, it's fine.
  19. If I remember correctly, it was the noise that prompted me to have the LSD fluid changed, transmission fluid changed, and one leaking wheel bearing repacked and sealed, but without success. The noise continued. That was about 15 months ago. So the Redline gear oil has been it since then. The mechanic who was with me during the test drive also confirmed that the noise comes from the drive shaft. The noise seemed to have appeared when I've replaced the rear wheels with PS2's about 18 months ago (yep, I'm surprised they lasted that long!), but I can't be ceratin about its timing... Other than the noise, the car drives fine.
  20. Thanks JFP for the help. I look at http://www.obd-codes.com/p0456 and that of the P0455 and understood the system now. Can anyone help me locate a diagram showing how the EVAP system is connected? An exploded chart or any diagram showing all the parts will be great! Thank you all.
  21. Well, the jury is still out on this one. After draining and replenish the LSD with Delvac 75w-90 (where it was Redline), the rattle/grinding noise is... still there, but much reduced and harder to reproduce. I'm happy with it at any rate. $100 for the change, which I think is worth it. Well see if on my next tire change, this would be gone for good! Thanks guys.
  22. Well, after a few days at the garage, it turns out it's the Y-shape rubber part that connects to the two turbos with a smaller tube-like structure sticking out, near the top of the "Y". I think this part leads to the turbines. The smaller tube is what's leaking. The part was replaced and car runs really well! The turbo's build up really fast. Cost me $100, with free labor, because I'm helping my mechanic friend on the Vapor Recovery System on the 997 4s. ha.
  23. Yes, I'm running on Michelin PS2's. It's not a loud bang; however it's loud enough for you to notice it, though very briefly. Kind of similar to an engine knock... If you go down a gear and not hitting the ~2000RPM range, the noise would never appear. I'll have the mechanic check on the tranny fluid level tomorrow. We are having a huge typhoon day today!!
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