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gerthdynn

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About gerthdynn

  • Rank
    Contributing Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Space, Cars, Motorcycles, Planes, Skiing, Anime, Video games, Racing

Profile Fields

  • From
    Littleton, CO
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2004 Cayenne S
    2003 Dodge SRT-4
    (Not a car) 2007 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R
  • Future cars
    Corvette C6 Z06
  • Former cars
    1989 Toyota Camry (hand-me-down for graduation)
    1978 Plymouth Champ (first car. rebuilt engine)
  1. If you read through the descriptions most of the users describe as the faults that fixes it is that individual lines are going in and out, which definitely sounds like an lvds type of cable coming in and out of contact. There was a thread a few years ago where several of us were explaining the issues and troubleshooting, but it is obviously different. It is possible disassembling and adding a heatsink somewhere would definitely improve the situation and it might even reduce future failures if parts are replaced. It may even be possible that the heat is not changing the polarizing film and instead it is just changing the distance between the two to increase. In that case if you are very lucky you might be able to get it to work by applying pressure uniformly across the entire LCD. But as others mention in that thread for the different problem described in it the LCD is faulty and applying pressure is just a temporary fix and the LCD should be replaced. Thus we come back to the reason for this thread to begin with. Has anyone used this eBay item to fix the issue? I will take some pictures of the issue Saturday when I have some time. I will not have a chance to order that part and see if installation goes well and it really does fix issues until probably October at this rate.
  2. In case you weren't joking, I am the person who pointed out the polarizing filter as a possible culprit, so I know about the effects of cross polarization. No, as wearing sunglasses or not it still does that. And before you ask I'm not wearing polarizing contacts either. It is temperature dependant so those from generally cooler climates rarely see this effect or if they do it takes longer. I would be willing to bet quite a bit of money that few people check the off axis viewing angle of these when they start to fade.
  3. I haven't a clue, but I think it has to do with the way they did the polarizing coating. On mine at least, even if it is all blanked out from heat, if I move my head about 45 degrees from direct on I can see the lettering perfectly. It definitely has something to do with how hot it gets.
  4. I had searched a couple of years ago and nobody had a solution to the faded gauge cluster LCDs. I just looked on eBay and it looks like there is one up there now. Has anyone used this and does it fix the dreaded Cayenne S amber lcd fade after it gets warm? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-2005-2006-Porsche-Cayenne-Gauge-Cluster-Display-Screen-LCD-Amber-/231195836197?fits=Model%3ACayenne
  5. But the retention ring that it clips into was a single piece when you pulled the contact out to soldier the wire into it. I think I'm going to have to get creative or bite the bullet and add another housing to all the repairs that I have incurred over the past month.
  6. Roy, that might be helpful. I think we might be talking about the same contact. This is one of the two that is part of the headlight housing. How did you pull the headlight housing apart to do the soldering or did you do it somehow without doing that? If I can take apart the housing enough to fix or replace just the retention ring then I'm sure I can fix it.
  7. Well my turn signal stopped working again today, so I was going to pull it out again and buff up the connectors to remove the oxidation. I met more resistance when pushing in and turning the turn signal and when I pulled it out of the headlight housing, one of the little metal connectors with the wire was attached to the pod that I pulled out. Upon further inspection, the ring that is internal to the housing that holds the light in seems loose and broken at the connector. Is there a way to repair that without replacing the entire headlight housing? I was puzzling over it for a bit but couldn't find an easy way to remove it and replace it, but if there is a way I'm all ears.
  8. Well, if one has a brand new Porsche Cayenne with the new fancy PCM, there would be exactly no reasons for it. However, for the older ones, we can choose PCM 2.0 and 2.1 and since none of the equipment is in the car, it is stupidly expensive for a rather mediocre system, especially considering todays standards. To get ipod mp3 player compatibility one would still need to get yet another box to add that on. Alternatively there seems to be a few other choices one could do, but none of them get the level of integration enjoyed by even the original PCM, much less a newer one. One of these choices are to completely remove the entire Bose sound system amplifier and replace it with an aftermarket head unit, and another seems to be to buy a box that converts audio into something that can be used by the Bose amplifier but through an A2D converter. If anyone else in the universe made a head unit that connected into the factory location with the interconnections to the CAN Bus and the MOST Network, then it would be a simple choice. Since Alpine doesn't deem it worth the expense of licensing the particular features, this leaves one trying to come up with another way of interfacing. Would this project be simple? Of course it wouldn't, however, it might give a level of integration and capability that no older Cayenne would be able to replicate.
  9. So I've been on a multiday trip with the girl while doing all the driving but the last 2 hours to get home. I've been thinking on some of the basic problems I've been having coming up with a carputer to completely and seamlessly replace my cdr23 in my 04 cayenne s. In my quest I've looked for ways to talk on the can bus completely such that i can address the dash display as well as sit on the MOST network. I've looked at trying to get a dongle or card for a computer that can talk on the can bus and all I've found are about a grand. I haven't found any good way to natively talk digitally on the MOST network. Only solutions I've found put an a2d converter in the middle. So I'm a bit long winded about this bit over the past 35 hours of driving I began to wonder. The CDR23 can natively talk on both networks an address the dash display area. So... Would it be possible to harvest the circuits that allow that and build a fully integrated carputer? Obviously it would be a long and painful task but this is a thought exercise at the moment anyway.
  10. Okay so I haven't had a tire actually die on me in a while in use and I have to say that having never changed the Cayenne's tire myself before I didn't realize how hard it would be. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual, and I'm not saying they are bad, but with the weight of the wheel + tire as well as the pain of getting it out of the carrier, it took me forever and even then I went ahead and called my insurance and waited the 2 hours for someone to get there. I haven't yet got the 18s changed back to the 19s this summer, so I figure that if I do that it will give me plenty of practice so in the event I have to do this again it won't be so painful. Can I get all of the tips, tricks and pointers everyone here has used to make this successful? Also, I don't have a jack other than the one that came with the car, should I invest in a better one? The jack I have for my other car is very low profile so it probably won't even raise the Cayenne. Also, lining things up with just one of those guide pins was impossible. Is 1 the minimum and most people actually have two to make it easier to line things up? Thanks for any suggestions.
  11. So, which part number did you ordered? I was on the phone with parts and the guy told me that while the -33 was supposedly a replacement for the -32 (according to the parts system) and that the -32 was a replacement for the original part, from what he could tell only the -32 had availability. So I ordered this: 955-613-110-32 and it worked just fine. Will it go out again? Who knows, but at least now I'm forewarned and I understand the symptoms. The absolute most important thing is that I had cruise control on my trip to see family, which made a huge difference. :)
  12. Well thanks RFM and Mudman2. It took 3 days for the dealer to get the part, and then it was all of 10 minutes to replace the switch. Thanks so much for your help. Just a note to everyone thinking of it, you need a T15 torx bit to remove the panel that hides this switch. You will see the switch above the brake pedal mounted on this metal bracket. There are two inner clips, that hold on the electrical connector. Press inwards on them and pull it out. Then push the switch in and turn it counter clockwise and it will come straight out. Replace it with the new one in reverse order. The part cost me 20 dollars and I have cruise control again. :)
  13. So that brake switch doesn't trigger the brake lights, but it does do all of the other things listed? That is crazy. Does anyone have a picture of the switch? I'm not exactly certain what I'm looking for. Edit: I may have found the part you are talking about on the PDF parts catalog. On page 702 of the PDF, I see a switch labelled 18. It looks like it was originally: 955-613-110-32 for -04. I can't quite understand the terminology, but I think that it is showing that it was replaced by 955-613-110-31 and then 955-613-110-33. Can anyone confirm that?
  14. I have a 2004 Cayenne S. My cruise control isn't working. I noticed that there is a checklist of things to look for here are the things I've noticed. Can someone tell me most likely cause? 1) Cruise Control Light turns on in cluster when stalk pulled back. 2) Engine starts without pushing brake pedal. 3) Can move from park to other gears without pushing brake pedal. 4) Brake lights (including third) only on when brake pedal is pressed. 5) When in neutral and switching to offroad mode, brake pedal must be pressed. 6) When set button is pressed the vehicle seemingly doesn't engage cruise control as the speed steadily decreases when accelerator pedal is released. Note: My parking brake is a bit lazy as the strut that pushes it out takes a little bit to come all the way out and sometimes takes some coaxing, but parking brake light goes out. I really want this fixed before I go on my trip this Sunday, and the shop is busy and sounds like they might not have time to get to it. If I can diagnose the problem, maybe I can fix it myself quickly.
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