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otisdriftwood

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Everything posted by otisdriftwood

  1. Loren, Any chance it could be one of the relays? I really need to sort this out, as tomorrow may be my only chnace to take it in for a long time as my work schedule dictates. Thanks
  2. Ok, so today, I replaced my old ailing ignition with the new upgraded part from Porsche ($130 at Sunset, bless my wife for picking it up for me). Took about three hours, only because I had to reassemble the left vent. what a pain. I took my time, made sure all the connections were good. I actually ended up taking the instrument cluster out, and it made it so much easier. After putting it all back together, reconnecting the battery, my heart sunk when I turned the key to start it and nothing. I then turned it off, and tryed again, and it started. Let it set for a while, tried again, same thing as the first time, no start, then re-try and it started. Any one have any ideas? I"m positive that all the connections are good, and the battery is charged. If I can't figure it out with assistance,I'm just going to take it in. Thanks in advance BTW, those of you putting this off, its not that bad. Just take your time, place all your parts, screws, etc where you know where they came from, and you'll have it done in no time. Thanks to this forum, and all who responded to my other post which encouraged me to do the entire switch assembly.
  3. Well, the part number 4A0905849 is on the white part with the Audi symbol next to it. So I've decided to swap out the whole thing. Picked up the part From Sunset for $130, and will work on it tomorrow after I get back from fishing. I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the advice/input. Jim
  4. Thats strange as I ordered the part from Pelican, and it was listed for my year without upgraded ignition.The steel ring comes off, and it looks just like the new one. If that is in fact the wrong part, what part number should I be looking for?
  5. I was wondering if anyone here knows of a source to purchase a genuine audi ignition switch that I can use in my 89 Boxster. Got one from Pelican Parts, but it is apparently bad. Loren suggested the Audi part. Thanks in advance Jim
  6. Ok got the screws out and removed the old component. It was cracked. Go figure. Now I put in the new one, and I think I did everything right, but no start. I'm pretty sure I got the key extension male to line up with the switch female. Went through with gentle pressure on the switch and gently turning the key, but then try to start and nothing. Everything else works. About ready to fire bomb this thing!!!! By the way, there was a silver ring around the old switch, and nothing like it on the new one. Old is to the right, new one to the left. Any suggestions? Or since I have it in service mode now, would I be better off just to replace the whole ignition with the updated part? Is it possible that I got a bad switch as a replacement?
  7. Just wondering if anyone has any magic tips that make getting to the screws on the electrical part of the ingition easier to get to. I have the duct removed from the bottom, but I can's seem to get a good angle to get at the screws. Its really tight under there for me. Do I need to try to get the duct out that runs up the drivers side? Also, what size flat blade is it exactly, and whats the best way to get the sealing paint out? I hate to take it in, but I've been messing with it for 2 days now.... Thanks in advance for any advice. BTW 1998 Boxster Jim
  8. No other symptoms, or codes. Will check the fuse tonight after work. How hard was it to remove/replace the change over valve?
  9. Ok, so it wasnt the MAF, as I was setting at a light, heard the air pump, and bingo, same codes (P0410, P1411). As of now, its garaged, not going to drive it until I figure this out. Through my research and reading in this and other forums, it looks like the problem may be the air change over valve???? Im about to just take it in, although I really dont want to. Any last minute ideas before the stealership gets their hands on it? Thanks Jim
  10. Thanks for info on the top. But with less than 40 miles, she threw P0410 and P1411. All the reading I've read, well some of it anyway, points to the MAF? Just replaced it. Hate to take this in, but I need the 60K service anyway.Anyone know a reputible Porsche place in SW Washington or Portland? Jim
  11. MAF in, DME discharged, so today will tell the tale. Thanks again to all who had input and direction. If this takes care of it, you all saved me a wad of cash! I'll let you know the status. Thanks again Jim And by the way, I managed to crack my rear window during this process. Anyone have experience with the glass window tops?
  12. Well much to my suprise, my MAF came yesterday. So, after it warms up a bit, I'll replace it and let you all know how it goes. Jim
  13. I ordered a MAF and it will be here Monday. As far as the secondary air pump goes, there doesn't seem to be any issues with it. Looks like it might have solved the problem for por986, so we will see. After I install the new MAF, do I need to disconnect the battery to discharge the DME so it will relearn the parameters upon start up again? Again, thanks to all Jim
  14. My RMS isn't leaking, so if the MAF solves your problem, please let me know. Also Maurice, I changed the lower bellows clamp to a regular hose clamp. I don't see how I could have got the OE one on with the special pliers. Iw was like doing mechanics by brail to get that thing installed.. Thanks again to everyone for their help, and patience. Jim
  15. Jim: If you are using an OEM clamp on the lower part of the bellows, make sure that you have a pair of hose clamp pliers handy or the little blue plastic tool that comes with part number 99951263000 (spring hose clamp with tool). Without one of those tools, it's VERY difficult to get that clamp seated properly over the bottom of the bellows. Check out this thread if you haven't already seen it: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/17331-aos-replacement-tips/page__pid__187451#entry187451 Regards, Maurice. Ok folks, the AOS was a PITA to do. I guess if your left handed, and have a left arm longer than your right, and smaller in diameter than a pop can you'd be ok, but its done none the less. Sorry I couldn't get the oxygen sensor info you requested. Anyway, I test drove it yesterday, all seemed to be ok. Went to work, less than 10 miles and CEL comes on, P1128 and P1130. There doesnt seem to be any leak that I can detect, and upon initial start up to come home, it was not running good at all. Then it smoothed out and all seems ok. I'm stumped. Anyone with any suggestions, your help would be greatly appreciated. I really dont want to take this thing in to a shop if I dont have to. Thanks in advance Jim
  16. Havent driven it since my initial post, but did start it and the oil filler cap was under a bit of suction, I mean I could get it off, but seemed a bit excessive. Ordered a air oil separator, J tube from Pelican parts. After researching, looks pretty straight forward to replace it. Parts should be here Thursday, so Friday, I'll know for sure. Thanks again Jim
  17. First off, I'd like to say that this is an excellent forum, witha ton of information provoded by alot of very intellegent people. That being said, I have searched the forum for my specific problem and just want to make sure what I have gathered is infact correct before I move forward. My 98 Boxster recently thew the P1123, P1128 codes. After some research, I decided to Rule out the MAF, so I accessed the engine, pulled the MAF, cleaned it as outined on Mike Focke's website, cleared the codes, drove about 50 miles amd the codes reappeared. After further research, It looks like the AOS may be the culprit. I just wanted to know if I'm on the right tract in the diagnosis and possible solution to this problem. My box has almost 60k on it. Thanks in advance for any help. Jim
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