RayGT3

hi8ha,

I'll say it again, I've been using this battery in my GT3 for going on 3 years, sitting for months at a time in below freezing temps, and have had no problems of any sort. Not sure I understand your question, cars, trucks, boats, motorcycles, atv's all use batteries and if they are 12 v they will work in each other to some degree or another. Because someone calls a battery a motorcycle battery or is used in a motorcycle doesn't mean it can't be used in a "Porsche or a "Ford". There is nothing special about a Porsche battery other than it's too big, too heavy and in a bad place in the car. You can save about 20 pounds and relocate the remaining weight to a reasonable spot and get a 10 year guarantee along with a battery that outperforms your anchor for about $100. Your choice.

Brian,

If in fact you have to have some weight in a vehicle, it's better handling wise, to keep it as low as possible and in a Porsche forward is better than rearward. In this case you are moving a much lighter battery, down as well as forward. The old battery was, I think 20 some pounds heavier and placed high under the windshield, two worst cases. Getting rid of weight is probablly one of the best, cost effective ways, to improve performance. No promotional BS here you can calculate the actual gains, HP/Lbs.

Tool Pants,

I have no association with Odessey other than being a satisified customer.

With all due respect, these batteries (Odessey) have one of the highest power/weight density (< 12 lbs for the battery I use, and less for the next size down) of any commercial/military battery. I've been using this one for two years (my third winter) with absolutely no problem at all in my GT3. Actually I could have gone with a smaller size and been OK. I've read in the car trade mags that the high end car manufacturers are finally going to this technology battery. These are actually dry cell design not wet cell, no gas venting and can be shipped in the normal UPS etc. way. Punch a hole in the side, no leakage. I fail to see the impractability, could you elaborate please.

How about the Odessey battery? lightweight, no fluids or vent, better performance and 10 year guarantee. I've had one in my GT3 for 2 years. Pulled the anchor old type and mounted this on the front floor.

Got mine from Boothe (sp?).

I believe everything is press fit, snaps here, snaps there and sooner or later it comes off. The LED module can be a bear to get off, needed some real encouragement to get it loose

I use two of them placed in the top 2 holes and this makes this even easier, this also lines up the center hole. By the way they are of different lengths to make it easier to get the wheel on to both the pins.

Think about how these guys work, they are a small loop of wire encased in a phenolic type material. As the pad wears the sensor wears at the same rate and at some point the rotor wears through the wire loop and you get a light. BUT!!! if the sensor is flush against the face of the rotor itself, it will make the circuit and the light won't go on till the pads back away from the rotor surface. This would account for the seeming on/off of the light. I would guess in certain circumstances the light would go off when stepping on the brake and back on when the brake and pads return to the unengaged position. Just seems like a good explination as to what many might be experiencing.

Maybe those crappy sloppy motor mounts in the car acting up. These things can cause all sorts of strange problems.

I've been storing cars over the winter (Buffalo) for more than 20 years and have never used a shelf life gas additive and have never had an "old" gas related problem. If the use of additives gives you a sense of security, by all means use them. But IMHO they are not needed unless there is a long storage period forseen (longer than 1 year). Although I do recommend the topping off the tank before storage, as others have mentioned, to reduce possible condensation.

Pretty sure you will have to change the headlights. Not sure if anything else. I have heard of others importing mainland Euro cars to England. I don't think it's that unusual.

Forget the stabilizer unless you are going to have the car in storage over a year. Normal gas is good, as far as I know, up to 3 years.

Cayenne bolts are 7 mm longer than 996. I have a new still in bags set of 20 if interested.

There's been a good deal of dialog regarding this issue on Rennlist and the consensus is if you want to do a good job pull the bumper, it makes life a lot easier and you have less chance of scratching the paint with a vacuum hose attachment etc. I was amazed at the diversity of items folks have pulled from the corners around the coolers, plastic bags, birds, pieces of road kill, not to mention the standard leafs stones and sticks. Spend the extra time, it's not that bad getting the bumper off and you will have the satisfaction of knowing you didn't leave something behind.

Only need sensors if you got a warning light, otherwise you should be OK.

I believe the factory fill is ATE gold, the blue is the same with the exception of the color. That being the case there should be no problem with contamination of one fluid type to another. Granted it might be advisable at some point to bleed the clutch fluid. I've been switching between the ATE blue and gold for over 3 years with no ill effects.

Or get a trickle charger from Walmart, $24, usd one on my GT3 for 3 years, over 6 month winters. Never had a problem.

Planning on getting rid of the arrent OE GT3 motor mounts this winter. Anyone know of a diy description for the motor mount change. Can't be too tough. Tnx

Loren is correct, the pressure plate from my gt3 has 9 holes around the perimiter.

I am sitting next to an '04 GT3 clutch (that is FS) as I speak. I can give you the P/N's if it will help. As to fitment, send me a message directly and I can give you reliable contacts that can steer you in the right direction.

If you don't go to a LWFW this set up will probablly work with your stock DMFW. The LWFW is thinner and needs a different guide tube and release bearing. We can verify all this if you might be interested.

I have ben told that it will fit 964,5,993 and 993 turbo. not too sure about the DMFW, there was some discussion about one having 6 bolts and the other having 7. But I think the clutch parts will fit.

When racing years ago we used Royal purple and were required to drain the oil after each race before cool down similar to the old casteroil which would turn to thick goo when it got cool after use.

The oil worked great just not practicle for street use at that time.

Ya they are expensive, bought them a couple of years ago when they had them on sale, overstock, I guess.

I bought bushings (bearings) from Evo to replace the plastic. These would work for you.

The release bearing is different when going from the DM to SM as the thickness of the two are diffferent.