wizard

On a sticker attached to the underside of the front bonnet and in the vehicle service booklet?

If not, you may have to start peeling back carpet.

Ah, OK. The jump start explains it. There really should be a clear warning about the potential hazards of jumping modern cars.

4K for radio reception seems like awfully expensive music.

Have you asked yourself and the dealer how it's conceivable that a flat battery can screw up the PCM?

The Durametric website will reveal all.

If it were me, and if it was to be Porsche-specific, I'd go Durametric.

I believe that any laptop running a recent version of Windows will work.

The following, from elsewhere, may be relevant:-

Quote

 

Okay, my car is fixed!

As you predicted, ashy, there was a short circuit that was causing the coil packto overheat. The mechanic deduced this not only from the melting coil pack, but also because there was a fuse that kept blowing.

He put a bulb in place of the fuse and fiddled around with the wiring until he found the likely location of the short circuit based on how much the bulb lit up. I wouldn't have thought of that myself in a month of Sundays! It was really interesting for me to watch him work and very reassuring that I was getting a good job and not getting ripped off.

Once he figured out that the short was caused by some of the injector wires chaffing on a pipe (I guess maybe part of the cooling system) he cut out the damaged sections of the wires (there were three that had been worn through to the threads) and soldered in new sections. He tied all the wires back up and then made sure that they wouldn't chafe on the pipe again. He reckoned somebody put it back incorrectly when replacing the head gasket.

As soon as that was fixed and he fitted the new coil pack, my engine ran like a beauty! I think the problem must have been gradually getting worse because I always used to have to give it some throttle when turning the ignition but now it starts with a simple turn of the key. There is minial vibration and not the slightest hint of a misfire.

I may be way off the mark here, but have you considered a failing/blocked catalytic converter as the possible source of stuttering/misfiring?

Yes, after 40 years of car ownership in Bahrain, I know what you mean :-)

I admire your persistence. However, if memory serves, you've had warranty claims on 2 new batteries, and now coil packs, potentially.  

It may make finding the solution to your problems a lot easier by having Porsche identify where the problems originate and then take it from there yourself?

Just a thought.

I have the same car. 2003 saw an upgrade in the engine management system to Bosch Motronic ME 7.8, so I suspect that the answer to your question re compatibility is no.

Use the jumper located in the fusebox. Instructions should be in the manual that originally came with the car.

If you're planning on driving the 45 miles back to the shop, you'd be well advised to ensure that the transmission is correctly filled before setting off.

There are normally very precise procedures for filling depending upon the transmission on your car.

P.S. 6-speed. My mistake. Please ignore ;-)

If, as you steadfastly maintain, it's not thermal expansion resulting in overfill, then it's quite conceivably oil dilution ..... and not at all good for your engine.

I'd find out which ..... and rectify it asap. 

Backfiring on what is a comparatively new vehicle is most odd. Have you checked your plugs for fouling?

Oil dilution would, of course, increase volume.

Yes, I think that your logic beats my expansion suggestion.

Is there any trace of a fuel smell to the oil?

I believe that there are both petrol and diesel versions of the newer Cayenne S. Which is yours? 

I'd be inclined to go with the overfill warning. Who actually carried out the oil change?

I believe that synthetic oil 'expands' more than regular oil when hot. You could therefore have a level which is marginally below overfill when cold but which then tips into overfill when hot?

I'm fortunate enough to have a dipstick on my Boxster in addition to the dash indicator. If you have an extraction pump, I'd syphon a bit out. Alternatively, removing the oil filter housing drains approximately 1 litre. 

If that's possible on yours, I'd extract 0.5 litre and take it from there.

Congratulations ..... and a very wise decision to go with the original parts ;-)

Unless you've already looked, I've found Amazon.de to be a price-competitive and reliable supplier of Bosch parts, if that helps.

Definitely +1 on replacing the brake fluid.

It's unfortunate that the car is standing for eleven months of the year. You are presumably inflating the tires to avoid flat spots.

If you're not planning on an IMS solution and you have a Durametric, checking your camshaft deviations occasionally for any fluctuations after the engine is well and truly warmed up may be a good idea. Of course, it's by no means a failsafe indicator.

The following relates to the Mercedes Benz 722.6 transmission, but it may point you to the rough area to look. 

What Are The Common Fluid Leaks Of The 722.6 Transmission?

The two most common fluid leaks from this transmission are the 13-pin electric connector/spacer (pilot Bushing) and the shifter mechanism bellow. Between the two, 99% of the leaks are from the 13-pin connector.

The 13-pin connector can leak either internally or externally. In some cases, the leaked fluid can even wick up to the Electronic Transmission Control module (ETC) through all the small openings in the wire bundle via capillary action. The purpose of the plug is to connect the ETC to the inside of the transmission (solenoids, sensors, etc). At the center of the plug, there is a 7-mm screw that screws into the conductor plate which is inside the transmission. It has a very low torque value (3 Nm) so do not strip the threads or you will need a new conductor plate. 

Leak from the connector, which is on the top-left of the picture


This plug has been updated several times so make sure you get the latest part. The replacement is pretty simple and here is instruction on how to replace the connector from “Franasiaâ€.

Here are a few additional items that you may to observe when replacing the plug connector.

Make sure the transmission fluid is below 50 deg C and examine the new connector to see the collar engagement and the 7-mm screw at the center.

When installing the new connector, put a tiny bit of ATF on the O rings.

  
 

I don't know how accessible this is, but the following may be worth looking at :-

'The MB units (my experience is limited to e55 & 430, sl, clk55) have a documented issue with leaks from a faulty o ring in the plug where the Transmission Control Unit wiring harness connects to the vehicles wiring. I haven't taken apart the specific unit on the 996, but I can tell you the fix should be extremely simple. Get your hands on a shop manual for this particular vehicle model year, and locate the harness/plug. If it's leaking from the plug you should be able to fix for about 15-25 dollars all by yourself, I've done it a couple of times and it's really not a big deal.'

Just to rule it out, remove your oil filler cap and check that there's no creamy emulsion on the inside or, if you have a dipstick, check the condition of the oil from that.

Not the best weather conditions to work in!

A hairdryer should do the trick for softening the adhesive enough for it to stick.

Take it slowly, ensuring that everything is aligned and the window is working properly before you install the membrane. Marking the exact position of the window with bits of tape before you start removing the broken regulator makes things much easier.

If there's not a step-by-step guide on how to change the regulator here on Renntech, you'll find one on the Pedrosgarage site. 

Absolutely. Likewise the water pump, if and when that needs replacing.

You should just need the window regulator. The inner door panel is covered by a membrane. You'll need to peel that off very carefully if you intend to re-use it. Otherwise a new membrane will also be needed to avoid water seepage into the cabin.

Naturally, care is needed with the airbag in the door.

This may help ....

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/33970-strange-whistling-sound/

Without a diagnostics capability, you really are shooting in the dark. That can get very expensive.

As you appear to be intent on working on the vehicle yourself, getting hold of a Durametric or similar would be the soundest first step in my opinion.

What condition were the coils and plugs in that you replaced?