Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

wizard

Contributing Members
  • Content Count

    384
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by wizard

  1. Many thanks JFP. I should have left it well alone!
  2. I'm in the process of replacing the original (rusty) bleed screws on all the callipers on my 2003 986. Unfortunately, whilst trying to carefully remove one which was really rusted, the bleed screw came out in one piece but it would appear that some of the thread within the caliper itself has been damaged. Grateful for advice on whether or not rethreading is feasible, and the tap size needed. I didn't see anything like this covered under the suspension/brake sub-forum. Thank you.
  3. Could the problem conceivably be the result of restricted flow of cold oil upon start up due to a Hengst filter as opposed to a Porsche filter? Just a thought.
  4. It might be an idea to put the vehicle on level ground, clear the codes that you have, start it and see what codes are coming back.
  5. Tiptronic transmission. Problem occurs when going uphill. ATF 'sloshing' effect? I'd be inclined to first check the fluid level in my transmission.
  6. This should help to solve the problem ... http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site_5/Worst_Case_Scenario.html Please ignore the above. These are instructions that I 'store away' in case I need them. However, having only now read it, I see that they say it requires headlight removal ... and, unless I'm mistaken, access through the 'frunk' is required to remove the headlight !!!! I seem to recall reading that carefully levering the headlight up with a thin hard-rubber wedge between the bottom of the headlight and body reveals the emergency release wire. ... but, that's obviously not the proper procedure.
  7. Just to rule out the obvious, you have presumably tried a selection of other CDs to ensure that it's the player at fault? Is the CD itself hot when it's ejected?
  8. "- Occurs when starting to accelerate from standstill" ... after releasing your handbrake? "After accelerating from stop the noise will stop after a few seconds" .... Does the GTS have separate drum brakes for the handbrake? Binding brake shoes?
  9. Marcio, with respect, that is not the way to go about it. I would strongly suggest that you search YouTube for a video tutorial on draining a Cayenne cooling system and follow that. Whilst I'm not familiar with PEAK products, I believe that their pre-diluted (50:50) 'Global Lifetime' coolant would be OK. It would, however, be advisable to confirm that.
  10. Just to add to what Dennes33 has advised, you should completely drain and flush your cooling system prior to finally putting in coolant/distilled water. A mixture of the residual additive that you earlier put in and coolant could have unwelcome consequences.
  11. On the assumption that your 'Check Engine' light is not flashing, checking alternator output is a straight forward task with a multimeter/crocodile clips. The positive pole in the engine compartment will provide the most accurate readings when starting from cold/at full operating temperature/with A/C and lights on. What readings are you getting from the instrument cluster under the foregoing conditions? As you will probably have to disconnect the battery at some point (reset codes), there's a process that needs to be carried out to correctly reset everything. Somewhere in the 996 forum (?) there's a detailed description of that process from a contributor called Richard Hamilton. I'll try to find that for you.
  12. Durametric is your friend, of course ... although, hazarding a guess, you may want to check that the fluid level in your transmission is as it should be.
  13. Oops ;) As ttocs suggests, you have presumably checked that your battery is holding its charge? Has any work been done on your transmission?
  14. I seem to recall reading that there's a small button on the left side of the ignition switch (9 o'clock). When that is depressed with a paperclip, for example, the key can be extracted. I'm not familiar with the Cayenne, but it may be worthwhile looking to see if you have this button.
  15. Well, Ahsai and JFP are far more experienced and knowledgeable than I am but could it be something as simple as the electrical component of the ignition switch, I wonder? That is a common problem and I had to replace mine years ago (2003 Boxster) but I can't remember the symptoms.
  16. I would be curious to know why there's what appears to be a "brand new" immobiliser unit in a 1998 car? Does the part number on the unit match that specified for a car of that year? As I mentioned before, is there any sign of water damage under the carpet under the driver's seat?
  17. Commiserations. Unfortunately, as the vehicle has subsequently been worked upon by others, the chance of satisfactory recourse against Vertucci now is slim I suspect. There's not much advice that can be given other than to suggest perhaps approaching Vertucci to negotiate for them to do the remedial work at a 'fair and reasonable' price.
  18. I guess the first place to look is under the driver's seat carpeting to see if there's any water damage visible. If there is, then you'll need to get into the alarm/immobilizer unit on the underside of the seat to see if there's water damage to the internals of that.
  19. O.K. By fuel cap you presumably mean coolant reservoir cap? Just for the sake of clarity, is it correct that the cooling system was trouble-free until after the radiator was replaced? When your engine gets up to 'hot', are the fans at the front coming on and, at low speed or high speed? Do you have the facility to get the rear end of the car jacked up and safely supported whilst again trying with the burp valve? Failing that, I guess it will require a drain and vacuum fill.
  20. Forgot to mention to run your heater whilst running the engine with the burp valve open. Whilst I've never done it, I believe that the valve can be left open (metal clip in upright position) whilst driving the car if necessary ... provided you keep a close eye on the coolant level.
  21. Vacuum fill is the correct way. However, as the system is already filled, you might want to try 'burping' before doing anything else. The burp valve is found beneath the black plastic cover around the coolant fill cap and oil fill cap. It has eight small bolts around its circumference and a metal clip across its top. With the engine cold and the coolant at the correct fill level, lift the metal clip over the burp valve to the upright position and then start the car. Monitor both the temperature and coolant level until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Return the metal clip to the horizontal position. If you're doing this on an incline, the front of the car needs to face down the incline. I'm sure that if you search for 'burping a Boxster cooling system', you'll find a video on how to do this. It's simple ... and can sometimes save a lot of work!
  22. If the embossed part number on the top of your coolant reservoir cap does not end with the last 2 digits being -04, get a new cap that does - an original from Porsche ideally.
  23. Bizarre. The only other explanation that I could have given is that while you were parked up on that particular day, somebody hit your driver side front wheel and bent it out of shape ... but obviously not! It may be an idea to check if both front tyres have identical wear patterns.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.