wizard

Logic would suggest a connection issue, however, I have read that rebooting sometimes works - simultaneously pressing the 1-4-8 keys on the PCM unit.

The following might also help, if applicable to your system:-
https://www.callasrennsport.com/blog/porsche-pcm-issues

As I understand it, a PDK transmission requires both a transmission fluid change and clutch fluid change. The clutch fluid change needs to be carried out twice as often as the transmission fluid.

If your problem is not software-related, I'd hazard a guess at a clutch fluid change being necessary.

Odd that a Porsche dealer would state that a clunking PDK was "fine and normal" !

There were a couple of shops down Lulu Road where I used to get my tools. Have you tried down there?

Gasoline smell and poor mileage.

You might consider looking at your spark plugs for possible fouling.

Just a thought.

I believe that the engine would need to be hotter than that for the fans to activate.

Have you checked to see if there has been any drop in the coolant level after the engine has cooled down again?

In my case (water pump), there was no readily visible evidence to suggest a leak other than some coolant loss judged from viewing the level in the reservoir ... and powdery sort of deposits in the vicinity of the water pump.

Do you have any history on the car i.e. if the water pump has ever been changed?

Provided the car has the correct level of coolant, opening the burp valve whilst idling it shouldn't do any harm. You will, of course, need to monitor the temperature and coolant level. That valve is under the rubber cover and adjacent to the coolant fill cap.

As the cap itself is Porsche and '04', it should be OK.

On my 2003 Boxster, it was relatively easy to check out the water pump by removing the panel beneath the carpeting behind the seats. If it appears to be a water pump problem, that then gives you access for serpentine belt removal to check for any play on the pump bearing.

Were any/all fans running at full speed at the overheating stage?

Are the last 2 digits on the coolant reservoir cap '04'?

Do you see any signs of fluid 'splat' around the area of your water pump?

Happy Motoring ;-)

A Durametric scan and clearing of any codes may resolve the issue ... if you're lucky.

If you do a search for

'Tiptronic "reduced driving" mode - safe?'

under the 996 forum, the guidance there should equally apply to the 986 Tiptronic and it may ease your mind a bit.

Try a burst of WD-40 on the latching pin, followed by locking/unlocking to see if that frees things up.

If you do a search on here for 'How to manually lowering convertible top', you may find what you're looking for.

Maurice (1schoir) appears to be an authority on all things related to the 986 convertible top and he has put up some lengthy explanations on how to fix them. 

Test your battery ... both batteries if applicable.

Odd. A Porsche clutch slave cylinder should last a lot longer than 30,000 miles. Unless I'm misunderstanding, neither the clutch nor the power steering has anything to do with engine speed ... in 2nd gear.

With the car at a standstill and the engine running, do you hear anything when the steering wheel is turned full lock in both directions? Likewise, when depressing the clutch?

I'm unable to link, but the following from another forum may help ... grommet?

"Also, you should check to make sure your engine compartment temp sensor hasn't come loose and is resting on the engine or other hot part. This could be causing the fan to come on unnecessarily. If it is actually coming on due to being that hot, there could be a different problem.

The compartment sensor is #12 in the diagram, it should be in a rubber grommet right on top of the engine between the #4 & #5 intake plenums. You can't miss it, the  connector easily seen just by opening your engine bay lid.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...79#entry206679

"Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the enginecompartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F. 
If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the enginecompartment temperature is > 185 degrees F, the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds."

Perhaps try qtcgears.com

... and long may it continue.

Just on the off chance that it's not fuel related, have you checked your coolant level? You might also open your burp valve to ensure that there's no air trapped in the system.

Do you have the latest coolant reservoir cap - part number ending in 'O4'?

I would just add the replacement of the serpentine belt if it's still the original one.

If the seat is on a separate fuse,  why not pull that fuse?

"The car ran fine before the installation of the radio"

This may assist in tracking down your issue ...
https://cai-store.com/pages/911-boxster-double-din-conversion

Belleriver. My apologies. I should have been more explicit. Hooking up the Durametric was meant for fault codes. 

From memory, Durametric does provide a MAF reading and short and long term fuel trims which may assist in diagnosing the problem if cleaning/replacing the MAF doesn't remedy it.

Has the fuel filter ever been replaced to your knowledge?

Surely the simplest approach would be to return to the status quo ante i.e. disconnect the stereo system and start again?

Hello.

The door latch?

Do you also get the jarring noise if you manually unlock the door with your key?

Your next step?

Hook up your Durametric.

Fuel delivery/pressure/pump?