wizard

Hard to say what it might be. It could be that the coolant was under-filled or, alternatively, it could be that you have a leak somewhere. Equally so, it could have been a defective coolant reservoir cap ('04' being the latest) ... or it could be a defect in the instrument cluster. It could be that you are getting an incorrect temperature reading.

It's always best to rule out the easier things before moving on to dismantling the dash.

I have a 986 so I don't know the layout of your engine. If there's a leak at the water pump, you'd normally see a (white) residue in the vicinity. 100,000 miles on the original water pump (if it is) is perhaps stretching it.

If you are intent on 'burping' the cooling system, monitor the engine temperature and low coolant warning whilst you do it and, naturally, check the coolant level when the engine is cold. 

See JFP's post immediately below ... and his to you. He is an authority on Porsches. As he says, check that your fans are functioning as they should. If yours is the same as the 986, the fans at the front of the car are two-speed.

Yes, the burp valve is the black thing next to the blue coolant reservoir cap. Carefully lift the metal piece to the upright position and leave it there until you've run the engine to operating temperature. Make a note of the fluid level before and after.

Re disconnecting the battery and the alarm, there should be a procedure for that in your handbook, failing which, do a search on here or Google.

How many miles has the car done and has the water pump ever been changed to your knowledge?

Have you tried just disconnecting the battery for an hour or so and seeing what effect that has?

If you have a burp valve, maybe run the car with it open and see if that has any effect on the coolant level. The new coolant reservoir cap presumably has '04' as its last two digits?

Could be ignition-switch related ... an easy fix and inexpensive. From memory, I used an Audi part.

Test your battery.

If you haven't had wet carpet under the driver's seat, you might want to look anyway to see if the previous owner had and it penetrated the Central Locking Unit.

All of the above can give rise to weird happenings!

Otherwise, it could be microswitch-related. 

Whilst it sounds to me like a battery-related issue, here in Germany, particularly in winter, martens are renowned for seeking cover under car bonnets and chewing electrical cables.  If that's an issue where you live, the integrity of the cable from your battery to the starter might be worth looking at.

Is your new battery correctly CCA rated according to your vehicle's handbook?

Dealership. Porsche dealership?

If yes, you really need to hear them right .... and then write to Porsche AG in Stuttgart.

A feature of the 996 !!!! Permeable gas tank !!!!

Differential? You may want to check your fluid level as the next step.

Have you tried pulling in different directions? I suspect that it's not so much the force applied that counts, but the direction of pull.

Failing that, perhaps the following helps
http://www.mademan.com/mm/how-open-porsche-cayman-hood-without-battery.html

Happy for you .... but disappointed that my valiant attempt at diagnosis (octane (doh)) fell so flat on its face at the first hurdle :-).

I'll get my coat in future!

Enjoy your Christmas.

Yep, it amazes me how many owners of what are expensive cars will skimp on the fluids they use. If a specific fluid is specified, it's for a reason. Unless you know for sure what that reason is, it's common sense to go with the dealer stuff.

Penny wise and pound foolish can result in horrific cost !

Hello.

I always thought that the genuine Durametric had the facility to test O2 sensors in situ ? You might want to check that.

Flashing transmission lights/limp mode. Odd that the Durametric does not show up Tiptronic-related fault codes. Have you interrogated the Tiptronic specifically?

Tiptronic fluid and filter change needed possibly if it hasn't been done before. If not, check the fluid level in the transmission. An incorrect fluid level will prove problematical.

The car does belong to you, right?

If so, why don't you get whoever has the other key in Germany to DHL it to you. Then you move on to the more complex and expensive attempts to fix.

The ignition switch is a fairly common fault, I believe. It's an easy fix and comparatively cheap - especially the corresponding Audi part.

Incidentally, RoW cars don't have a clutch interlock switch to the best of my knowledge and you appear to be in/from Belarus. Is your car a N. America spec?

The following is copied from another forum, but relates to the same car as yours -

Since it is an '00 or older, the release levers for the trunks are manual and there is a 'lock out' plate to prevent them from being release when the car is locked or the driver's door is closed. However, you can use a small flat headed screwdriverto slide between the two levers on the driver's door sill to manually unlock them. Here's how:

With a flashlight and skinny 3-4" long flat screwdriver (like one of those electrician promo ones handed out at trade shows...) slide it down between the front and rear levers. Under the front trunk lever, you'll see a U shaped cut out that will have a white plate under it. The white plate, when the vehicle is locked or doors are closed, slides over the U shaped cutout to prevent the levers from being raised. Using the screwdriver, slide the white plate from the outside of the car towards the center. Once it's clear, just pull up on the lever to release either trunk.
 

You might care to give it a try.

You've clearly got a problem and, of course, gasoline does not form droplets on a hot engine, as I'm sure you're aware.

"sludge is just from being cold ...."

If it were my car, I wouldn't start the engine again until I knew what had happened.

18 hours ago, ekstroemtj said:

@Zakowsky hello to Canada

 

regarding your codes I can say, the lower temperature always brings air suspension workshop messages to my display too. Don’t know why. Usually they disappear after new start. Maybe again a low voltage problem. Don’t know. 

 

 

 

 

Guten Tag, Thomas.

I'm not at all familiar with Cayennes but, if there's a difference in total wheel diameter between your summer and winter tyres, wouldn't that affect ride height and air suspension setting? Just a thought as to what might trigger the code.

Are there indications of it overheating? If yes, have you tried ' burping' the system and was the Porsche coolant that you used to top-up the same as was already in there? You presumably did dilute it with 50% distilled water?

How many miles on the car, have you replaced the water pump and, if yes, was it with a Porsche original pump?

You may also wish to check your mechanic's work on the temperature switch.

Firstly, my apologies to JFP for butting in. I really must read before positing.

As he says, what is in the oil filter will provide an indication as to how serious it is. 

If you Google 'sound of knocking con rod', that should enable you to rule that in or out .... without starting your engine, of course.

I notice that you originally had P2177 and P2179 codes.

If after the next refuelling (to ¾ full), indications are that the evap canister is not the culprit, as another 'experiment' you may want to remove the MAF sensors and give them a spray cleaning. It's not too difficult a task, but it does call for a specialised MAF spray cleaner and particular care in carrying out the cleaning/drying process. 

The only thing I can suggest for now is to not fill the tank beyond ¾ full when you next refuel and see if that has any positive effect.

For clarity, the battery was reading 12.6V this morning, before starting and after resting overnight without the trickle charger connected?

On the assumption that you didn't trickle charge it overnight, did you check whether or not the battery was holding its charge overnight?

Filling to the brim each time may be giving rise to your problem - a saturated evap canister - as Lewis alluded to.

Still no codes?  Filled up to the brim or not? If to the brim again, have you detected a smell of petrol at all with the filler cap closed?