wizard

On 11 December 2011 at 1:07 AM, selby said:

2006 Carrera S

I need new rear tires, but not new front ones.

My Porsche dealer service manager says I can't mix tire makes/brands between front and back. Currently I have Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position A/S on both (different sizes front/back). I'd like to replace the rear tires with Continental ExtremeContact DWS in order to save about USD $100. The car is not raced. Would I be taking any serious risk with my plan?

Without wishing to sound rude, if you need to save that amount of money, perhaps you shouldn't be driving a Porsche.

It's not only Porsche who recommend not to mix tires ......!

Oops. February 2015 post resurrected !!!

"Took it to the dealer, they said the water pump is new"

Porsche original ...... or something off e-Bay?

In the case of critical things like the water pump, it's always best to pay the Porsche price!

A click is normally indicative of a weak battery.  As it's new and presumably has the correct Cold Cranking Amperage, I would check for parasitic drain, after ensuring that the cable to the starter motor is securely attached .... and corrosion-free.

I'd also check the output from your alternator.

Coolant pipes ..... if they're still the plastic ones. 

Hope that this finally gives you trouble-free driving after all the effort that you've put in.

I can't imagine why I kept that link for future reference, but ..... !

You will presumably be testing the relay to ensure that it really is duff ?

Apologies. Wrong link. Let me search for the 986 one.

Post #11
http://babblers.org/showthread.php?s=1a40cc0ae0db8884411709c13c3009dc&t=10627&page=2

May be worth looking at ......
http://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/137428-convertible-top-problem-solved.html

I imagine that you'll already have guessed that my earlier suggestion to let the battery drain for a couple of days should have read a couple of hours.

Old age comes to us all ;-)

Hi.

Perplexing. I'd fully charge the battery, let it stand for an hour, take a voltage reading on the battery, pull the aftermarket stereo fuse, leave it a couple of days and then take another voltage reading.

I have the 2.7 from the same year. Not a daily driver by any means. My heavy parasitic drain some years back turned out to be ignition switch related ..... an easy and inexpensive fix, with the part coming from Audi if I recall correctly. The alternator regulator had been suggested as the most likely culprit.

The regularity of the drain is odd. Do you have a tracking device fitted and, if so, what does that hook up to?

I'd hazard a guess at the driver's side door lock actuator ... but that's just a guess.

The simplest approach would be to check for which, if any, codes have been thrown up.

Car battery. How old is it?

Are the carpets under your seats dry?  Does the car lock normally using the switch on the dash? Are you getting 'beeps' of any sort when you attempt to lock the car? Is it both doors locking/unlocking, or just the one?

Your battery condition would be the first thing I'd check.

+1.

If not that, it's always conceivable that some wildlife took up residence over the winter and chewed some wiring if the car was not garaged.

Did the smoke have a smell of burning wiring? When you reconnect the battery and if you experience the same, feel for any heat from the starter motor/solenoid.

You might want to test your battery.

I've used Boot Camp with my Durametric for many years now without any problem whatsoever.

I found the simplest and most reliable way to ascertain for sure the make of the Tiptronic on my Boxster was to crawl underneath and find the (green) plate stamped to the casing which details manufacturer, transmission designation and part number. In my case, the one for ZF was readily visible.

From memory, the ZF website lists all transmissions manufactured by them, and the recommended ATF for each.

#10 from the attached may be worth trying - spraying some electrical contact cleaner onto the microswitch assembly whilst it's still installed as the initial step.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/584145-top-not-working-98-boxster-any-diagnostic-steps-available.html

I'd still go the temporary fix route. The door locking mechanism is in the vicinity presumably and it would be most unusual that Porsche would install rivets which have to be removed in order to gain access to the window regulator.

The following relates to installing tint on a Cayenne window:-

Then with door panel off you see the secondary metal interior skin. Undo as many of the Torx surrounding this including those holding the motor. You will see some rivets holding the seconday skin in place DO NOT DRILL OUT THESE RIVETS - they fall into a metal void without access and the car will have a permanent rattle .......

As a temporary fix and on the assumption that the window can be closed by hand, wouldn't it be easier to put 2 or 3 small rubber wedges along the inside lower edge .... wedge-shaped erasers, for instance? 

I agree. As I'm in Germany, I can't help. I seem to recall Sunset Porsche(?) being recommended. Perhaps someone else in the States can chime in?

For peace of mind, my advice would be to get the genuine part from Porsche.

Happy motoring :-)

Intermittent fuel delivery related to the most recent work carried out?

"There has been no coolant added since well before winter"

How frequently are you topping up the coolant?

Do you have the latest version of the cap to the reservoir tank? '04' last two digits. If not, I'd start by replacing that.