70Sixter

Welcome, Dan! :welcome: :welcome:

If the battery is good.... The voltage regulator could be the problem by not fully charging battery. If battery goes dead whilst driving and you already replaced the alternator that is a good item to test or replace. Not sure about Boxsters, but old 911 engines came with Marchal or Motorola alternators IIRC. Whichever you have the voltage reg has to match.

I think I misunderstood. Thought you wanted to get the "button" off. Is the new mirror attached to its own button? Examine it for a set screw. Test fit new mirror and its base to determine how old one was attached. If replacement mirror is OEM it should fit the existing button. SW in the factory manual IIRC for "should work." My 914 mirror attaches to the base with a set screw. Memory fails me on how my old 911 mirror attached to base, but the 914 base is the same trapezoid about an inch or so wide at the wide part. If installing new button it is best to glue (if that is how the button attached to the glass) or use OEM sticky pad in my case with mirror separated from base. Then you can tape the base in place until it sets up well. Then add mirror, and voila - you have rear view!

Far as I know, it should. No reason not. Very little changed in 04. I'm sure someone can be more definitive.

And call Homelink if in doubt. Wife's X5 Homelink was impossible to set by driver's manual. Homelink customer service laughed when I read it to her. No problem after short fone call and correct instructions..

The CDI makes a shrill hum whilest alive and working.

Check with a glass shop. I understand they use a fishing line type tool. Dental floss or fishing line might do it. Might need to apply some heat from a hair dryer or heat gun. With my 70 911 I just parked it in the sune and waited for it to fall off.

Welcome, Manymotors. :welcome:

I do not know. I'd ask Charles Navarro at LN Engineering. I never talked tracking my Box with him. Racing oils might be more appropriate with a post track switch back to a street oil. I know he likes Brad Penn (previously Kendall) 20W-50 for Porsche air cooleds street or track.

I got my red clip at Suncoast for about $4-5. I leave my top down for short stops, but never for even a trip to Lowe's. Sun damage to interior is one reason so I also use an interior windshield reflector. Some idiot tossing a milkshake in is another. I do not like to have to lock away the windscreen parts, and they are a temptation for e-Bay sales. Top is always up in the garage to prevent permanent wrinkles in the cloth. Even more serious if you have a plastic rear window.

Yes, the first number is basically protection at start-up and the second is at operating temp. The more viscosity improvers required to achieve the rated numbers, the less base available for lubrication. No 30 weights are approved, and it is a terrible choice for protection of an M96 at operating temp. The are several approved 0W and 5W-40s and one 50 IIRC. The TSB is available here on this site for contributing members. Do not go by the owner's manual as oils are "reformulated" and approvals change. Even the TSB approvals have an expiration date listed. I have come to believe after much research and debate in this forum and others that 0W is not a good choice for most M96s unless you live near the Arctic Circle. You want a minimum API rating of SL, altho SH or SJ are better. European ratings of A3/B3 are also signs of good quality oil. SM and CJ oils are not considered by some experts to be adequate for Porsches, altho there are SMs on the approved list. Motul 8100 X-Cess is approved and meets minimum SL/CF requirement. By the way, Mobil 1 5W-40 is approved, but not available in the US to my knowledge. ZDDP is very important as jperquin said, but you do not want to add it, it needs to be in the oil's formulation. Some say it can damage cats, which is one reason why the ZDDP levels have gone down in many oils in recent years. IMO opinion there are better oils available that are not on the Porsche list if you are off warranty. Some are very expensive - like my Motul 300V 5W-40.

Cannot enjoy another's misfortune under any circumstances. Sorry for your loss. I'd cry. Really. Me, the Marine. Glad you found replacement but understand your ambivalence. :angry: :o :cursing:

Go to the pinned radio code help area before Loren tells you to!

One more for Raggtopp. Just ordered refill of cleaner from Suncoast.

My Bose amp is fine, my hearing sucks.

First, I never thought about trying Number9ine's angle steel before I bought mount. Maybe for the 914. And second, the dry powder is a destructive mess, not just a clean-up problem. Halon is worth the cost.

I'd check tire pressure first and then re-torque the front wheels. and check tread wear patters for uneven wear, cupping, or flat spots. They are easy. Flat spots from sitting in garage for a few days uasually disappear when up to temp. Then balance and alignment. Not hard but not exactly cheap. Sometimes you can move wheels to isolate problem. Or borrow known good ones.

You are a lucky man, Justin. All that and the wisdom to realize what you have and to appreciate it! :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:

I say good decision. I'd buy a new or used piece and have it painted if it bothered me too much. Put the scratched part in storage. You can always put the original part back on and advertise it as "all original paint." We are starting to see this become important even on original 911Ts. And preservation classes are on the rise from Monterey and Amelia Island to PCA. Even the very rich collectors are thinking twice about over-restoring rare original automobiles. Will your car ever reach this status? Maybe not, but certainly less likely with repainting. I know of a 246 Dino with a dent that the owner will not repair until (if and when) it needs a total restoration. I wish the first owners of my 914 had thought along these lines!

Okay, found notes and my memory is verifiably difficient. ACEA rating of A3/B3 required. API SL is minimum as Charles said. SH or SJ are better. API calls SH obsolete. SJ and SL are current. Motul 8100 X-cess is SL/CF and Porsche approved. Motul 8100 Clean and Max are SM/CF and (sadly) Porsche approved. The TSB for approved oils is available to Contributing Members as well as a host of other useful TSBs and other docs. Recommend signing up if not already in.

After talking to Charles Navarro I went with 5W-40 Motul 300V. I was gonna post my old research notes that I found yesterday. But I seem to have re-lost them. Or worse recycled them. I am fried and will post if I re-find them. You really have to do a lot of crosschecking to be knowledgeable about ratings, additives and viscosity. Most were from LN Engineering's site and concerned minimum ratings. Maybe Charles can recap. SJ or better as minimum? The min required Euro rating escapes me entirely. There were two approved Motul 8100s, I thought one was SJ. All I know for now is that there is less clatter from the engine at start up. We'll see how the oil analysis goes next year. I think all car makers are pushed into politically correct "approvals." Longer maintenance intervals, enviro-friendly as opposed to car-protective fluids, etc.

I personally hate anything that might obscure rear visibility when on alert for John Law slipping up on me. Lightbar or unmarked silhouette w/o lights. Crown Vics still give me a cold jolt of sh*t to the heart, even though there are lot of others out there now.

I had the dealer set mine to Version 2 at first service which was done on PIWIS at no additional cost . I almost never think to lock the doors, and locked doors afford some additional crash safety - not to mention defending against carjackers. My wife would never think to do it. A double pump of the inside door handle is no problem for me, altho I have seen complaints about it.

Sorry I cannot help. But... :welcome: :welcome: :welcome:

If you do a search you'll find that a lot of people have MAF problems after K&N install. Probably from over oiling. On the other hand, a lot of folks have reported no K&N problems. I've used them for years in my -6, but would not risk using them in the Box. Too little gain for even a small risk, IMO.