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the fj

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About the fj

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    Male

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  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    MY00 986 Boxster 2.7
  • Future cars
    McLaren F1
    993 RS
    Maserati 250F
    Aston Martin Vanquish
  • Former cars
    Volkswagen Corrado VR6

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  1. I wouldn't worry about it unless the oil consumption increases.... likely just tolerances of the piston ring pack and bore honing. Just watch for any increases in oil consumption. My non-turbo Cayenne started using a lot more oil at about 40k miles, and had scuffed cylinder bores requiring a new engine.
  2. Hi. Did you ever resolve this issue? My drivers door has the same problem; it hangs a little low when it's closed and at highway speeds, the wind gets under the seal and causes a lot of noise. It seems that the hinge needs adjusting, or shimming with a washer. Mine has been this way for over a year. I fixed the wind noise by taking some thick electrical tape and building up a new surface for the door seal to seat on. You can't see the tape when the door is closed, and don't notice it when the door is open. It gives the seal a positive surface to seat against, and stops all the wind noise. With that said, I don't want my car held together with tape, and I don't like the way the door lines up. Any advice would be appreciated.
  3. Thanks for the info - much appreciated. As it happens, the car fixed itself. I went home one lunchtime to call the recovery company, and thought I'd give it one more go. I could hear the engine starting to fire, really slightly, but after a minute or so it came back to life. It's been A1 since!?! Don't know what happened! When it fired back up, it sounded (and smelled) like it was flooded, but that doesn't really explain why it died so suddenly and completely overnight. Touch wood, we'll have no repeat of this!
  4. Update: Tried the MAF, made no difference whatsoever. The engine is definately turning on the starter, and the battery is definately OK as it spins over like it's got no compression! (let's not even go there!) When I turn the key to the intermediate position (warning lights on), I get a click from somewhere in the engine, and it starts beeping at me. It sounds like an electronic buzzer - almost like you'd get from an old Casio digital watch. It's a continous tone, yet it seems to whisper the words "this is going to be really expensive. You're going to pay for trying to sell me"! Where do I find the fuse for the fuel pump? I AM SO ANNOYED ABOUT THIS!!!
  5. I need to sell my car as I am moving to the US in January. I advertised it on Monday, after a year of trouble free owner ship. Now it won't start!! :cursing: The car's a 2000 2.7 manual with 41000 miles on the clock. It's a UK car. I drove it on Sunday: no problems. Monday I backed it up the drive a few feet. No problem. Today it won't start. It fired immediately as usual and then died straight away. Now, I turn the key and the starter just spins the engine. Sanity check: it seems to spin over really easily. Another post here described the usual start noise as "kchikchikchikchi......" which is familiar. Now it sounds more like a food blender, almost as if the starter isn't engaging. But, the rev counter moves, so it must be spinning over, right?! It's defintely got a good tank of fuel. Sometimes when I drive it, I get a flatspot between 2000 and 3000rpm, which I always thought might have been the MAF. I will try disconnecting this and see what happens. What else can I check? Fuel pump? Speed sensor? Or is the car just trying to tell me it doesn't want to be sold? I just can't believe the timing of this! And what's worse, it happened on my last car - the night before the new owner was due to collect it, the ignition switch packed up!! Please help!!
  6. Hope I'm not missing something obvious here, but it's the cables for the door window that are broken, not the top. I can't see anything in the Boxster top Issues forum about the windows?
  7. Sounds just like what happened to mine which I have just taken to bits. Cable was snapped, and had become snagged in the 'reel' thing at the back of the motor, hence grinding all the casing away :cursing: Anyone know whether replacing the cable is a DIY job? Also, can the 'reel' section of the motor assembly be purchased on it's own as I think the motor itself is fine? The only bits that are actually broken are a couple of plastic mouldings and the cable, but I can see this is going to cost me hundreds of pounds!!
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