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PESuazo

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Posts posted by PESuazo

  1. In regards to the parking brake dash light....

     

    IF the light is ON on the dash (when the parking brake is pulled up/engaged), "most likely" the switch is "OK".....but it may still be a problem when you activate the convertible top.

     

    IF the light is OFF on the dash (when the parking brake is pulled up/engaged), most likely that is the problem.

     

    The diagram attached is for a 1999 996 convertible.

     

     

    post-65806-0-69081000-1457368449_thumb.j

  2. 996 & 986 Outer Tie Rod Replacement


    Whenever you raise your front end, it is a good idea to "test" as follows:   Hold your tire at 3 and 9 and rock the tire back and forth.....feel play, or knocks?.....Tie Rods may be bad   Hold your tire at 12 and 6 and rock the tire back and forth.....feel play, or knocks?....Bearing may be going bad   In my case, I had a bad "shimmy" around 60 MPH and around 90 MPH....I had already ruled out the balancing of the tires.....   Upon close inspection, I could

     

  3. I agree with this thing being a royal PITA !!

    Did you buy a new regulator or sending yours out to repair?

    They can not be repaired only replaced.

    There are places where you can send yours out and fixed....guy in Rennlist did that...unfortunately he told me after a dished over 500 bucks for a new one...this guy in Brooklyn fixes then for 140.00..with warranty....I will not post the name of the website here.....but a google search will get you there........

    " clear1x1.gifOur Price: $140.00 Icon_FreeShipping_Small.gifbtn_addtocart_small.gif clear1x1.gif

    You send us your broken window regulator with the motor. We reassemble the motor guides, and replace cables with stronger and much more durable cables. If necessary we exchange plastic pulleys and rebuild regulators that are stronger than the factory issued models. "

  4. Oil is meant to be circulated throughout the engine......lack of oil circulation would allow seals to dry and rot (one of the many causes of leaks)......

    I am a believer that lack of use can be harmful to an engine.....Cars are built to run....not to sit in a garage....why would anyone deprive themselves of driving a Porsche if they own one????

    Drive it more often....to the point of normal operating temperature.........then add 20+ highway miles.....at least once a week.....

  5. On one level, LNE saying that 3 of the 4 failures were due to improper installation eases my concern, but then again, aircraft manufacturers always attribute crashes to pilot error.

    This makes me think that the original IMS bearings installed at the factory failed due to improper "installation". Reason: I have heard that "most" failures happened in low mileage vehicles.....

    Hence it opens the possibility to believe there was actually "nothing" wrong with the original bearing, but with it's installation (30.00 dollar bearing)....... BUT we should buy a 620.00 dollar bearing that could also fail due to bad installation........

    Oh boy......Where is the popcorn?

  6. According to the E-bay post....it is them:

    About Casper Labs, Inc.

    Casper Labs designs and manufactures engine parts under "component improvement programs". Production engine design deficiencies are analyzed, and improved parts are designed, tested, and sold to correct these problem areas. Best known for our general aviation engine products (we hold several FAA liscenses/authorizations for design, production, and servicing of piston aircraft engines), we also address turbine and power generation prime movers. Casper Labs products are produced in an AS9100/ISO quality environment."

  7. logray,

    Well stated......thanks for a solid and factual response......

    I recently replaced my clutch (at 50K, now have 60K), did not even bother with the RMS and IMS (neither was leaking). I drive the car plenty (average 15-20K a year). It is almost a daily driver

    When the next clutch change comes (2 years?); I will remove and replace the bearing (more out of curiosity than concern, in any event, chances are I will have one of the other dozens of failures), by that time Pelican Parts will have their own version for about 150.00 bucks.

  8. Continue the sentence and you will find the Disclaimer:

    "and even with our ceramic bearing, we have had three engine failures where the single row ceramic bearing was found to have failed"......

    ....(although not conclusively as the cause of the engine failure , given there are dozens of known modes of failure and secondly, these are open bearings susceptible to damage from foreign object debris)."

    By not conclusively, it implies:

    - The failure may have been caused by something else, not the IMS

    - Clearly states there are dozens of known modes of failure (dozens, as in 24, 36,48, 60.....not just the IMS bearing).

    - BUT there is a preventatice fix for ONE of the DOZENS (24,36,48,60?), and the part alone costs over 600.00; Go figure, as much as a clutch kit !! (I estimate a manufacturing cost of 35.00 for that bearing, if that much).

    - The 3 failures do not mention how long (in miles) after the installation the failure happened, how many miles the engine had when the new IMS bearing was intalled, who installed the bearing, were they track cars or daily drivers?

    What I interpret of the whole paragraph:

    It is unknown if the IMS failed or something else made it fail (whether it is the LN Engineering bearing, or the original that came with the Engine).

    Now, I would never knock someone from buying and installing the bearing for piece of mind, my piece of mind have value as well.

    It is just that after I look at the facts, this IMS issue appears to be more market hype than actual evidence. This is my personal opinion, and that is why I sleep well, and do not think about my IMS failing, as the experts state: "there are dozens of known modes of failure".............

  9. I do not suffer from "IMS Bearing anxiety"....have never replaced mine.

    Some comments from people that have replaced the original IMS bearing:

    "Upon removal the bearing was found to be fine, but now I have piece of mind"

    "My removed bearing was in perfect condition, now sits as paper weight on my desk, but now I have piece of mind"

    "My bearing was OK, now I have a new part in my spare parts collection, but now I have piece of mind"

    I know at least 5 guys with 99 996's with over 100K miles with the original IMS. Go look at many of the roll calls "how many miles on your 996?"

    Mind you, IMS failures AND/OR intermix failure DO happen, BUT IMS failures have been marketed a lot more, since people are making money from "preventative measures". Hence it is in their best interest to instill fear and promote failures (even if it is another kind of failure they are blamed on the IMS).

    And when a failure happens to a car with a new IMS: well, we do not know if something else failed, and took out the new IMS bearing.

    Then couldn't it be that the same thing happen to all the "previous IMS failures?"

    I hope readers can catch my drift........

  10. This same thing happened to me.

    The micro switch on the latching mechanism is not closing.

    When the latch attempts to close, push it with your finger (help it latch). If it works, then you know that is the problem.

    If the top is open, you will notice in the latch cavity a little hole, push it and release it slowly to see if you feel the "click" of the microswitch opening and closing.

    Another test is to push that same thing and try to close the rear windows.....check if they go up as you hold the switch in (by the overhead light) and try to close the rear windows.

  11. Was out last night and I heard a crack when I started car and depressed the cluch and now clutch pedal has gone "soft"? Also, I had a prior post where it has been creaking / squeking for last few weeks and now the squeak / creak is pretty much gone but the pedal just "feels" different. Clutch engages, card drives fine, no leaks, no warning lights just feels different than before the clack.

    Actually, I am not sure if I like it better this way. Best way to descibe is it feels like there is a longer softer engagement spot than there was before?

    Might this be damaged or broken clutch power spring?

    I see you never got a response....the same thing happened to me today....how did you fix it??

    Thanks

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