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PESuazo

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Everything posted by PESuazo

  1. In regards to the parking brake dash light.... IF the light is ON on the dash (when the parking brake is pulled up/engaged), "most likely" the switch is "OK".....but it may still be a problem when you activate the convertible top. IF the light is OFF on the dash (when the parking brake is pulled up/engaged), most likely that is the problem. The diagram attached is for a 1999 996 convertible.
  2. 996 & 986 Outer Tie Rod Replacement Whenever you raise your front end, it is a good idea to "test" as follows: Hold your tire at 3 and 9 and rock the tire back and forth.....feel play, or knocks?.....Tie Rods may be bad Hold your tire at 12 and 6 and rock the tire back and forth.....feel play, or knocks?....Bearing may be going bad In my case, I had a bad "shimmy" around 60 MPH and around 90 MPH....I had already ruled out the balancing of the tires..... Upon close inspection, I could see my outer tie rod boots where broken, and play was present when doing the 3-9 rocking. 12-6 rocking was non existent. Attached is the procedure I followed....there are also plenty videos on you tube..... This procedure is what I did for tie rod check and replacement.pdf Author PESuazo Category Carrera (996) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 02/11/2016 08:07 AM Updated 03/17/2017 05:12 AM  
  3. Just like the previous posts suggest. In my case the battery was dying....once I installed a new battery (H8), the voltmeter stays very close or at 14.....before it would go barely above 13
  4. Whenever you raise your front end, it is a good idea to "test" as follows: Hold your tire at 3 and 9 and rock the tire back and forth.....feel play, or knocks?.....Tie Rods may be bad Hold your tire at 12 and 6 and rock the tire back and forth.....feel play, or knocks?....Bearing may be going bad In my case, I had a bad "shimmy" around 60 MPH and around 90 MPH....I had already ruled out the balancing of the tires..... Upon close inspection, I could see my outer tie rod boots where broken, and play was present when doing the 3-9 rocking. 12-6 rocking was non existent. Attached is the procedure I followed....there are also plenty videos on you tube..... This procedure is what I did for tie rod check and replacement.pdf
  5. Glad I did this......refilled with the Porsche fluid, now the operation is nice and smooth.......
  6. This is the path I would take if my engine ever craps out.....please keep us informed if you ever create the website with the steps to do the conversion.....
  7. This past weekend I did this....I am happy with the results....I purchased the 3M kit and the Sylvania kit 1.- I used the 3M kit 2.- I finished with the Sylvania clear coat UV protectant/sealant
  8. Numerous reasons....but I will give you 2 clues and do a search in this forum......this has benn discussed enough times... 1.- When parking brake is up....is the light on the dashboard on? 2.- Does the clamshell move up/down?
  9. youtube is your friend....very good video describing the procedure there....
  10. I have seen this happen......usually the microswitch on the top center latch. Try pushing the latch in as it engages (help it in).
  11. Jesus, 18K for a new engine......with the same horse power If my engine ever blows up (I hope it does not).......I would go to Renegade Hybrids, and have them install an LS3 engine for under 12K.....you gain over 100HP and save $$$.......now I am ready to be flamed......
  12. They can not be repaired only replaced. There are places where you can send yours out and fixed....guy in Rennlist did that...unfortunately he told me after a dished over 500 bucks for a new one...this guy in Brooklyn fixes then for 140.00..with warranty....I will not post the name of the website here.....but a google search will get you there........ " Our Price: $140.00 You send us your broken window regulator with the motor. We reassemble the motor guides, and replace cables with stronger and much more durable cables. If necessary we exchange plastic pulleys and rebuild regulators that are stronger than the factory issued models. "
  13. I agree with this thing being a royal PITA !! Did you buy a new regulator or sending yours out to repair?
  14. Oil is meant to be circulated throughout the engine......lack of oil circulation would allow seals to dry and rot (one of the many causes of leaks)...... I am a believer that lack of use can be harmful to an engine.....Cars are built to run....not to sit in a garage....why would anyone deprive themselves of driving a Porsche if they own one???? Drive it more often....to the point of normal operating temperature.........then add 20+ highway miles.....at least once a week.....
  15. I have had the magnetic plug for a while...I never get any metal particles on the filter...the magnetic plug is a different story...there is always a metallic "dust" on it....
  16. This makes me think that the original IMS bearings installed at the factory failed due to improper "installation". Reason: I have heard that "most" failures happened in low mileage vehicles..... Hence it opens the possibility to believe there was actually "nothing" wrong with the original bearing, but with it's installation (30.00 dollar bearing)....... BUT we should buy a 620.00 dollar bearing that could also fail due to bad installation........ Oh boy......Where is the popcorn?
  17. According to the E-bay post....it is them: About Casper Labs, Inc. Casper Labs designs and manufactures engine parts under "component improvement programs". Production engine design deficiencies are analyzed, and improved parts are designed, tested, and sold to correct these problem areas. Best known for our general aviation engine products (we hold several FAA liscenses/authorizations for design, production, and servicing of piston aircraft engines), we also address turbine and power generation prime movers. Casper Labs products are produced in an AS9100/ISO quality environment."
  18. logray, Well stated......thanks for a solid and factual response...... I recently replaced my clutch (at 50K, now have 60K), did not even bother with the RMS and IMS (neither was leaking). I drive the car plenty (average 15-20K a year). It is almost a daily driver When the next clutch change comes (2 years?); I will remove and replace the bearing (more out of curiosity than concern, in any event, chances are I will have one of the other dozens of failures), by that time Pelican Parts will have their own version for about 150.00 bucks.
  19. Continue the sentence and you will find the Disclaimer: "and even with our ceramic bearing, we have had three engine failures where the single row ceramic bearing was found to have failed"...... ....(although not conclusively as the cause of the engine failure , given there are dozens of known modes of failure and secondly, these are open bearings susceptible to damage from foreign object debris)." By not conclusively, it implies: - The failure may have been caused by something else, not the IMS - Clearly states there are dozens of known modes of failure (dozens, as in 24, 36,48, 60.....not just the IMS bearing). - BUT there is a preventatice fix for ONE of the DOZENS (24,36,48,60?), and the part alone costs over 600.00; Go figure, as much as a clutch kit !! (I estimate a manufacturing cost of 35.00 for that bearing, if that much). - The 3 failures do not mention how long (in miles) after the installation the failure happened, how many miles the engine had when the new IMS bearing was intalled, who installed the bearing, were they track cars or daily drivers? What I interpret of the whole paragraph: It is unknown if the IMS failed or something else made it fail (whether it is the LN Engineering bearing, or the original that came with the Engine). Now, I would never knock someone from buying and installing the bearing for piece of mind, my piece of mind have value as well. It is just that after I look at the facts, this IMS issue appears to be more market hype than actual evidence. This is my personal opinion, and that is why I sleep well, and do not think about my IMS failing, as the experts state: "there are dozens of known modes of failure".............
  20. I do not suffer from "IMS Bearing anxiety"....have never replaced mine. Some comments from people that have replaced the original IMS bearing: "Upon removal the bearing was found to be fine, but now I have piece of mind" "My removed bearing was in perfect condition, now sits as paper weight on my desk, but now I have piece of mind" "My bearing was OK, now I have a new part in my spare parts collection, but now I have piece of mind" I know at least 5 guys with 99 996's with over 100K miles with the original IMS. Go look at many of the roll calls "how many miles on your 996?" Mind you, IMS failures AND/OR intermix failure DO happen, BUT IMS failures have been marketed a lot more, since people are making money from "preventative measures". Hence it is in their best interest to instill fear and promote failures (even if it is another kind of failure they are blamed on the IMS). And when a failure happens to a car with a new IMS: well, we do not know if something else failed, and took out the new IMS bearing. Then couldn't it be that the same thing happen to all the "previous IMS failures?" I hope readers can catch my drift........
  21. I got this done at my local muffler shop for 60 bucks (both mufflers)....sound is awesome with no droning....
  22. Having exactly the same problem. I already removed the side cover, I am trying to figure out how the whole regulator comes out....will attempt to fix.
  23. This same thing happened to me. The micro switch on the latching mechanism is not closing. When the latch attempts to close, push it with your finger (help it latch). If it works, then you know that is the problem. If the top is open, you will notice in the latch cavity a little hole, push it and release it slowly to see if you feel the "click" of the microswitch opening and closing. Another test is to push that same thing and try to close the rear windows.....check if they go up as you hold the switch in (by the overhead light) and try to close the rear windows.
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