hahnmgh63

Remember the -50W portion is for the hot side of the oil so for use in Canada I think I would just go to the Porsche approved 5W-40 from the 0W-40. Has the tapping sound always been there? The injectors do make a fairly loud clicking sound as their Solenoids are being fired.

In short yes. You can have a fairly large Boost leak before the ECU will throw a CEL. A small Boost leak won't throw a code.

If the programming doesn't work then just replace the switch would be my guess.

royxaxa, did you also try to plug in the PCM2.1 DVD drive along with the head to see if that would get your Navi running? I know this question has been asked a few times but not sure if anyone has gotten the full conversion from 2.0 to 2.1 completed.

That kit will work too. The other kit that I listed has more parts, the whole compressor body in fact. I don't think the cylinder in the compressor body of my old one showed any wear but of course I replaced it anyways.

There is a national backorder on it right now. Hopefully the price for us here in North America won't change too much when they get them in as they were unbelievable cheap here. I bought the full rebuild kit which came with the compressor body for only $10. In Europe they pay over 100 Euros for the same thing. Here it is from Jim Ellis Porsche still being listed cheap but they don't have it in stock. I rebuilt mine with the kit I bought last year and it solved my problems.

http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Volkswagen-VW/2010/Touareg/Repair-set-for-air-dryer-unit/5143547/100698010A.html

A small leak on the Pressurized side of the system will most likely NOT throw a code. I've worked on Turbo Porsche's & Audi's before and the only way of finding the leak is know what stock Boost should be and do loaded 3rd gear pulls while data logging requested & actual Boost. A leak in the PVC or fuel vapor system may vary well be detected depending on where it is.

Just checked my old receipts and found that I did replace the O-ring. On a Turbo it is part N91017101 and was only $7.02 from Sonnen.

I'd have to check again but I think there was an O-ring in there.

I would highly recommend the Battery Tender Junior or even Porsche's Battery Maintainer. I have both and even if I'm only planning on leaving the Cayenne set for a couple of days I still leave it plugged in. It will increase the life of your Battery and will lessen the chances of faults caused by low voltage on startup after sitting for a while.

Many times you will see errors from the MOST as far as lost communications with one thing or another, no CD, no Satellite radio, etc... But I have also seen restarts occur. The PCM can definitely be a finicky system, I used contact enhancer (Pro Gold) on all of my connections (Don't use on the MOST) and used clean Isopropyl Alcohol on the MOST connections and all is well most of the times. Once in a while I still get a communications error for one thing or another and I do a 1, 4, 8 reset and it will come back to normal, but most of the time it is ckay. Definitely not the most reliable system, if the reliability was better than it would be a very good system, especially when paired with a Mobridge or Dension.

Could be a loose Most connection in the back, it would be the larger diameter Orange looking wires (actually fiber optic). The PCM's are definitely not the most reliable stereo/nav systems out there. The Audi MMI / RNS-E is a much better and more reliable system.

www.autopartswarehouse.com

Free shipping for orders over $50.

I use the EBC Yellows (SUV version) on my '06 Turbo S and they work great. Cheaper than OEM, slightly less dust than OEM, and stops as good if not better than OEM. I have Cool Carbons on my Ford F-250 and I'm happy with them, they don't do a Turbo S fitment though.

The Pentosin 11S is what came in the Pig up until about '06 or '07, then they swapped to CHF202. The two are interchangeable and mixable.

justin_vspec, did you ever figure yours out? A friend had the same problem with his after he installed the rebuild kit and we did all of the checks, connections, leaks, sensors but nothing so I pulled off the side of his compressor and he had installed the compressor (rubber) ring backwards. There is a little notch in the ring groove on the piston and if you install the rubber ring wrong it will pinch it and it won't build pressure (compress).

I've got a '90 964 engine in my '74 RS Clone and it does leak a little from the cylinder heads so I'll need to do the update on the cylinder head sealing eventually. Thinking about going with LN Engineering Nickies to maybe a 3.8 while I'm at it but I'll still need to have the heads modified so I'm looking for the TSB and I don't see any 964 TSB's on here.

Just for reference, I see it's a '05 Turbo, post your mileage as well as a description of your old fluid if you could. Many, including me found the old rear fluid used but in Ok, shape but the front being much more used up looking compared to the rear stuff?

Mostly likely the Mobil 1 ATF will be fine for the transfer case but I would check the Mobil website to be sure that it meets Esso LT71141 spec. Since Mobil/Esso is the same company it probably does or else they sell another one that does. The ATF for the tranny is JWS3309 ATF so it is a different spec although some of the better Synthetic ATF's can meet both specs.

I'm a Redline Oil fan but here is a good site for those going the Mobil route

http://store.avlube.com/mobilatf3309.html

You've got it, pretty simple. The book answer is Front Diff approximately 1 liter, rear axle w/out limited slip approx. 1.4 liters (V6 w/M.T. approx 1.25 liters), w/limited slip approx 1.6 liters, Transfer case new filling quantity approx .85 liters (change approx .75liters). Transfer case takes LT71141 Esso spec ATF which most good synthetic ATF's meet or exceed this spec, I use Redline D4 but many others will work also.

Clarksongli is right about the limited slip, it's a conventional clutchpack unit. Many Gear oils will note for use with limited slips as they have friction modifiers. Limited-slip or Positraction units use plates or clutches to provide the proper amount of lock-up to the differential. Slippery lubricants are required to prevent chatter, but too much slipperiness causes excess wheel spin, reducing traction. Sometimes a limited slip will require the friction modifier additive compared to just adding the oil alone even though it claims to be Limited slip compatible. The amount of friction modifier will vary with the type and amount of clutches and will even vary over the age of the differential. My Turbo S has the limited slip option so I use Redline 75/90NS with a bottle of their limited slip friction modifier. Many good autoparts stores will carry some brand of friction modifier, one of the most common is the General Motors stuff.

Redline 75w/90 in my front & rear diffs also, '06 CTTS.

Many of the newer cars have in-tank fuel pumps and yes they do use the fuel to keep them cool, and yes it will shorten the life of the fuel pump if you always run your tank low all else being equal. I do a lot of work on Audi's & Bimmers and have seen this before.

voodocat, what year and model is your Cayenne? It would be good to see some correlation between models and/or model years. Maybe only a year or two affected? I haven't heard of many problems on '05 and later Cayennes? Maybe they have an improved part?

If your feeling the shifter being light then it could very well be in the shifter mechanism. Otherwise I would say run the codes first and if everything is fine then also have the fluid level checked in the tranny, the tranny will act like that if the fluid level is real low but it seems like it would be difficult for it to get that low without you noticing a change in the shifting.

Mbagge01, which NGK plug are you using? Looking at the NGK heat range chart they should probably BKR7EIX which compares to the stock BERU in heat range.